Anyone moved to France lock stock & barrel?

Oscar

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Hi,

OH & I are considering moving to France, he is far more keen than I am, we would need to be a commutable distance to Paris for his work. He is fluent in French and I can just about ask where the campsite is, and I can order two glasses of Chablis!! I'm just not sure how likely I am to pick French up if we buy our own land, I would be at home with the animals and I worry about needing to speak to vets, farriers, feed merchants etc. I really want to know what the reality is like, what are the winters like in Northern France, we are in windy Lincolnshire, so winters are windy and wet, and did I mention the wind.

I have a couple of friends that live in France, but they are much further south, and they seem to muddle by, but they are too far South for work.
 

Palindrome

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The weather is like the UK but less humid (less mold as air is drier but similar rain/temperature). Whereabouts in Paris will he work/in what part of the suburb are you thinking of settling?
West and South suburb are posh, North is the chav part. I have lived in both North and West parts.
 

fatpiggy

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Hi,

OH & I are considering moving to France, he is far more keen than I am, we would need to be a commutable distance to Paris for his work. He is fluent in French and I can just about ask where the campsite is, and I can order two glasses of Chablis!! I'm just not sure how likely I am to pick French up if we buy our own land, I would be at home with the animals and I worry about needing to speak to vets, farriers, feed merchants etc. I really want to know what the reality is like, what are the winters like in Northern France, we are in windy Lincolnshire, so winters are windy and wet, and did I mention the wind.

My sister moved to France immediately after getting married. At school she hated French and gave it up to do German instead after just 2 years. Her husband didn't speak a word of French. They lived in little villages in northern France (Brittany, Somme) where no-one spoke English at all and even the French was not much like what we are taught in schools but all the locals (mostly pretty elderly) were so fascinated by foreigners living in their community that they were constantly being invited in for meals, coffee or whatever. Within 12 months she was dreaming in French! They always rented and she just found out how to sort things out when the heating didn't work, or something broke. So if she can do it, I wouldn't worry too much. These days you can look up veterinary terms in any language you like on Google and any veterinary text book with pictures and diagrams can be pressed into action. Just remembered a story one of my school teachers told me when he was on holiday in
I have a couple of friends that live in France, but they are much further south, and they seem to muddle by, but they are too far South for work.

My sister moved to France immediately after getting married. At school she hated French and gave it up to do German instead after just 2 years. Her husband didn't speak a word of French. They lived in little villages in northern France (Brittany, Somme) where no-one spoke English at all and even the French was like what we are taught in schools but all the locals (mostly pretty elderly) were so fascinated by foreigners living in their community that they were constantly being invited in for meals, coffee or whatever. Within 12 months she was dreaming in French! They always rented and she just found out how to sort things out when the heating didn't work, or something broke. So if she can do it, I wouldn't worry too much. These days you can look up veterinary terms in any language you like on Google and any veterinary text book with pictures and diagrams can be pressed into action. Just remembered a story one of my school teachers told me when he was on holiday in Italy and his car broke down. He spoke no Italian but had done Latin at school so told them that his chariot was kaput, and they understood him!!
 

Hilary'smum

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We did in our 50s OH had a job. Living in S Brittany weather is normally drier and warmer and definitely far less windy than our daughters New Forest home. Despite brain taking retirement very seriously I have managed all aspects of horse keeping. On a good day am now pretty fluent in Franglaise

Our vet speaks fluent English as do many other 'services'. Have excellent sign language skills with feed merchant still bringing tears to the eyes of the Breton speaking farmer hay supplier as I murder the language.

Would seriously suggest renting for a year before committing too deeply. Read everything you can. Facebook - Normandy Hooves/Sabots Normande is a great starter for advice. Anglo Info for the department you are interested in.

Good luck whatever you decide. Personally I think it's a wonderful way of life
 
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Rollin

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Yes we did it 10 years ago. My o/h commuted from Scotland for three years, his French is brilliant I spoke almost none. Most French vets speak some English, I managed to get along. I can manage most things now but struggle with conversation. There are lots of opportunities to learn French and you may find more English people like you who need lessons.

The killer is French bureaucracy which drives me insane - 14 months trying to get my ENGLISH pension paid through the French system.

Lots of people get caught out unable to find work. Whereas there are a million French people working in the UK, London is the 5th largest French city in terms of population, English trained plumbers/ electricians etc have to have French qualifications. France does not accept BHS qualifications a friend spent 2 years re-qualifying to teach in France, most of that time was spent writing essays in French. I have employed a number of French Equine studies students, who do not have a scooby do when it comes to the most basic of stable management. If you want to compete in anything other than Club competitions, you will need French qualifications called Gallop. A club licence will enable you to compete in endurance, le trec, western riding and SJ to Preparatoire. If you bring horses to France you must register them on the National Equine Database called SIRE.

We holidayed in France for many years and decided against Normandy and Brittany as the climate is not much different to the south of the UK. We too wanted to be within easy reach of Paris and channel ports. We chose pays de la Loire. The climate of Angers is famous within France - the Doucer Angevine, not too hot not too cold. A lot of horses near us live out all winter, we choose to stable from December-March. The TGV runs from Angers and Le Mans to Paris, about 2 hours.

We find the vet, farrier, hay, and straw cheaper than the UK. We buy D&H feed, which is shipped into France every month, that is more expensive. Shavings are pricey.

Eating out is much cheaper than the UK. Wine and beer cheaper too.

While your husband works in the UK you will be entitled to health care paid for by the NHS EXCEPT it will be health care French style, which means that 30% of your costs must be met by private medical insurance called complimentaire. I used to have a European Health Care Card obtainable from the Post Office in the UK but think you may need something else. Check that before you leave.

The quality of life is great but it will be a change of culture so needs careful thinking.

good luck.
 

Booboos

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The first thing I would advise you to do is to speak with a specialist tax accountant and see how the move would affect your earnings. While I do agree that we need to pay tax to fund public services from which we all benefit, the French tax system is quite onerous and you need to make sure that your OH's salary post taxes will make the move worthwhile (wealth tax may apply, inheritance tax is a nasty surprise, tax on assets abroad applies also to capital - it's very complicated).

Secondly ask yourself why you want to move? If you have to because of work then I am sure you will adjust and have a great time like thousands of other immigrants. If you want warmer weather you won't necessarily get it in the north.

Speaking French is quite crucial, especially in small, rural areas. You may feel quite isolated but, on the other hand, it is easy to pick up the language to a basic level when you live in the country.

If you are really into your horses check that you can have a similar lifestyle in France. For example, there are fewer competitions, no showing, I've yet to find fun rides, although in some areas there is great hacking.
 

Oscar

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Hi Thanks,

OH works for an international company who have offices in London, Paris, NYC & Toronto and he would mostly be meeting customers that are based in the financial district.

It's not particularly that we want to have warmer weather that prompts the move, but as OH can work in London and Paris, property with land etc is far far cheaper than over here. But I dont want to move to a part of France that say rains every day!! I dont want to move to the Scotland or Wales of France lol!! Nor do I want to be too hot to do anything, or too hot for grass to grow, and I hate the snow so no snowy ski resorts!!

I am not that fussed about competing but would like to continue to train my horses in dressage and some safe hacking would be ideal.

The other thing that worries me is the food!! I dont eat meat or fish, and like Quorn & Linda McCartney foods, so I guess that'd be a stock up and get friends to send supplies?!!

Oh and I guess at lot depends on the EU referendum? How will it affect you all if we vote to leave?
 

sunnyone

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Hi,
We moved over here to Lot et Garonne 5 years ago. If we'd needed to be within commuting distance of Paris, we'd have gone to Les Andelys. A lovely town. I've been most major places in France over the years for study, work and pleasure. The same with the UK. Spalding or Les Andelys? No question, the latter.
The horses would have been fine in Les Andelys and the geographical continental effect is not too severe because the Seine basin is wide and moderates the weather. Much less wind, not all from the East, and less snow drift. I would bring all the horse's rugs, though for Les Andelys. I have 4 horses, but only 1 ever needs a lightweight turnout regularly, the others mainly do without as where I am February is our month of proper winter.

Property is reasonably priced around Les Andelys, which has fast trains to Paris. I agree few Parisians would think it commutable but as the trains are comfortable I'd see it as a good trade.

What worries me is " no meat or fish" in your diet. French cuisine relies on both. Restaurant vegetable soup relies on a chicken or ham stock, as a base for example. Green beans are often served with bacon pieces (lardons) stirred in. Asparagus has bacon wrapped around it. Even chips can be served with a dark sauce by default (sorry I didn't identify the flavour, but won't be rushing back to that restaurant but it reminded me of gravy, which I detest.) You can get 4 cheese pizzas though. Lol!
Eating out with others is an essential part of integration into French society, and even part of our community taxes is spent on entertaining the villagers e.g. vins d'honneur, repas Republicans, fete des vendages etc. Nobody is forced to go of course but it helps.

One of the ways you could help yourself to learn the equine vocab and local scene is to put your horses on livery for a while, even if you buy somewhere with land. This gives you time to get things straight at home, make some acquaintances, if not friends, and find out who are the good vets (if there is a choice), blacksmiths etc. We did that and were given a list of useful phone numbers when we left by the YO.
Fun rides here are organised to coincide with some organised randonnees. Riders and walkers/cyclists have to produce their medical sport licences at the start, but start times are different as are the route lengths. We have not got any licences, so don't go.
 
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Booboos

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Outside Paris you may well struggle finding vegetarian food in restaurants. My veggie friends here in the rural south can't find anywhere that offers even on meager veggie option other than pizza. All our mutual French friends have remarked on the veggie choice as being incomprehensible! It's very weird coming from the UK where almost everywhere has veggie options.
 

Rollin

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Super U used to sell Cheddar cheese made in the UK. Then they started making their own brand, not labelled vegetarian, when I asked if it was vegetarian, they looked at me as if I was mad "It is cheese" "Yes but what is the coagulant". I never did find out, so buy it in the UK or from Carrefour when I have to cater for vegetarian friends. I found it very funny that I had to explain to French people that to cheese is made with rennet, which is meat!! More and more French people we know are switching to vegetarian or meat free diets.

If your husband is going to work in Paris, then Maine et Loire is commutable, we bought this farm from someone who worked for Air France and commuted into Paris from Le Mans. When I was thrown from my horse and concussed, my husband took the first flight from Edinburgh to Paris in the morning and arrived in our village by train at 1.00pm
 

sunnyone

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I gave up buying Cheddar in the UK as Leclerc now have "Seriously Strong" cheddar on their shelves at almost the same price. They also have their own brand.
On the deli counter is Wyke Regis cheese, during the summer. They sell it sliced in the thinnest slices.
As to what happens if the UK votes to leave the EU, reciprocal arrangements date from prior to the UK's entry, (I think) and its in nobody's interest to rip these up as France has around 10% unemployment, and 500,000 French living in the UK.
 
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