Bitless Bridles: The many mechanisms, uses and names!

[theprettybrains]

Over a year ago I decided to go completely bitless with the little Spanish mare I ride, and ever since have been struggling with the variety of bitless bridles available, and often not-so-readily-available.

I am hoping to compile a list of bridles, ranging from the Dr Cook to the Ultimate Bitless Bridle and more, so please share your thoughts and experiences if you have any!

Obviously, I am pro-bitless, and hope that at some point it will be possible to compete in all equestrian sports with no bits at all - but most importantly, that riders will have soon the choice! However, my biggest bitless dilemma is that of finding an appropriate bitless dressage bridle...

If you are familiar with the cross-under and scawbrig mechanisms, you will understand that release of pressure is essential. In bridles that work this way, pulling on the reins leads to tightening around the face or nose, increasing the pressure. Great - we have steering and brakes! But what happens when we want a consistent contact and the horse to work into the bridle? So long as there is contact, the cross-under or scawbrig will be tight/tightening... This issue is of course resolved in other bridles, such as side-pulls, which are perfect for a dressage test, but tend to twist around on the head when one rein is pulled, and don't have that extra 'woah' of the cross-under or scawbrig. Any ideas? I'm thinking about adding a side-pull set of reins to something like a Barefoot Walnut bridle or Dr Cook, and using it like a double bridle.

Bitless Bridles List

Cross-Under
These bridles seem to have developed as a result of the Dr Cook bridle. While this is the original, it does not seem to be the best bridle that uses this mechanism by any stretch. A number of other bridles utilise this way of distributing pressure all over the head, while improving on some of its worse points.

http://www.horseandharmony.co.uk/bitless-bridle-walnut-167-p.asp
Rolled leather cross-under straps for better release. Padded and looks smart, but thin noseband - would prefer broader surface.

http://www.horze.co.uk/bridles/horze-ravenna-bitless-bridle/10047.html?color=BL
Similar to Walnut but cheaper! Headpiece not padded - separate straps over poll, like Dr Cook.

http://www.bitlessbridle.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=23_1
Lots of leather/synthetic/webbing options. Same issues as above (and all the photos show the noseband fitted far too low), rubbish website and a tad overpriced! Can buy cross-under straps separately on website, though, so might be able to convert another bridle if you have a suitable noseband!

http://www.bitlessandbarefoot.com/bitless-bridles.php
I am very interested in the Matrix Pro bridle, which seems to convert into every type of bitless bridle! Please get in touch if you have used one of these!

http://www.ultimatebitlessbridle.com/
I am very interested to see this bridle in action, and hopefully try one! It has a double cross-under, so that the bridle does not slip round when one rein is pulled. The cords underneath look quite thin, and potentially severe, but would probably release very well. The webbing look isn't as attractive as many other bridles, and isn't what I would be looking for in something to compete in. I hope that these bridles really get off the ground though - maybe they'll start making smart leather or BETA ones?


Side-pull
This is essentially what's happening when you tie a leadrope to each side of your horse's headcollar! Again, lots of different makes of this type of bridle. I haven't found any that particularly stand out yet. I have noticed that they have a tendency to slip round if you use one rein. Of course, you would hope to have relatively evenly distributed weight in each hand, but this isn't always the case. Potentially a good bridle for dressage (when it is eventually possible to compete in it!)

http://www.lightriderbridle.com/bridle-shop.html
Can buy a noseband to convert your bitted bridle to a side-pull!


Scawbrig
This tightens only around the nose - either with one piece of leather/webbing/rope sliding through underneath, or one sliding through each side, one attached to each rein (Double Scawbrig). As mentioned above, does release, but would need some kind of stoppers to prevent continued tightening with contact.

http://www.bitlessandbarefoot.com/bitless-bridles.php
As above, the Matrix Pro seems to do everything! However, it looks like the double scawbrig in particular would pull the 'bit' of this bridle into the opposite cheek.

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/233915810/bitless-bridle-converter-hackamore?ref=shop_home_active_1
Converter noseband with scawbrig mechanism, that has stoppers! Would love to try this one, or creating something like this on a cross-under.


And lots more to add! Hope this can start a bitless discussion!

 

[gnubee]

I use a scawbrig on one of mine, and whilst we are far from dressage ready at present, I think it should easily be possible to maintain a contact without over tightening as long as you are light in your hands and the horse had self carriage. I do believe that you lose some of the finesse of direct/indirect rein aids etc because of the dispersing effect of the tightening (an issue in all tightening bridles). I also wonder if the pressure occurring on the chin rather than in the mouth may cause some horses more difficulty in coming round as whilst relief from pressure is obtained by tucking the head in (regardless of whether correctly achieved or obtained through rein fiddling) the response to move away from the direction of pressure would suggest that the horses first respond should be to lift the face up and out. It's not a reaction I have observed in my use, but it was a concern when I first tried it and I wonder if horses that are not so naturally light in the contact may have more issues with it.

You also have to accept that at best a bitless is equivalent to riding a test in a snaffle due to the single uniform result of rein action. The mechanical hacks more is the only thing that comes close to the leverage on a curb bit, and even then you don't get the impact of the angle of operation of the curb chain or the benefit of the second bit with a slightly different action.

 

[NZJenny]

I've been riding bitless since the mid nineties, originally for endurance, but now because I like it.

Being in NZ, we don't have the variety here, but I have tried the main types - rope halters, Dr Cook, side pull and a conventional hackamore.

You can pretty much get away with anything hacking or for endurance riding as a contact isn't really required. I found the rope halters slopped around too much and I don't like the rope reins. A Dr Cook was fine and had good brakes, but with the noseband in a conventional caveson position, but when you need a release, they aren't great. Side pull was ok, but as the op said, I find they move around on the horses head too much, and mine didn't like that.

Which brings me to a conventional hackamore and I can already hear all the purists going, but they don't count!

I love riding in a hackamore. I have ridden four horses in them, and the only one who hated it was the gelding in my avatar, who did all his hacking and endurance in a Dr Cook. You can put anything you like under the chin (chain, strap, elastic) and because you are using a conventional bridle they sit nicely on the horses head.

Contact - I have been schooling my young horse in a hackamore and we are both loving it, but I have had to completely redefine "contact". For her it is the weight of the reins, "half a pound" is way too much for her. If she can feel a fly land, then she doesn't need that much pressure on her head or her mouth. And as was mentioned above, it is all about self carriage. Lateral work is easy as I'm working from my body, and she is as soft and round as you could possibly expect a horse to be.

JMO - great discussion and off to google "Scawbrig" as I've not heard of those.

 

[theprettybrains]

Yes, you both make good points about self-carriage!

My main issue with traditional hackmores is the long shank - while it can be used delicately, there will undoubtedly be moments when the hands aren't as light as desired (little mare is very, very keen when it comes to jumping) and I would prefer not to have all that leverage.

The Matrix bridle has 'bubble bit'-like rings which can be used to give a hackamore action. Has anyone used a bridle like this or the Orbitless? It looks like it might work better than a standard side-pull, but is likely still liable to slip round.

 

[webble]

Have you looked at the orbitless?

 

[theprettybrains]

Have you looked at the orbitless?

I've seen something similar used here, but it seemed to have the same slipping problem as the sidepulls I've used. Have you used it?

 

[webble]

I've seen something similar used here, but it seemed to have the same slipping problem as the sidepulls I've used. Have you used it?

No I have only used DR Cook and Scrawbrig. I had the same problem as you with both with regards to release and slipping around

 

[Landcruiser]

I've had the same release issues with Dr Cook, although my horse went very well steering and brakes wise. I finally settled on a normal hackamore so I could get him to carry himself a bit better when needed, as he tends to be very hollow and head high. He's ridden mostly without a contact though as he's western and neck reins very well. I take the point about not wanting the leverage, but in my case that's exactly what I sometimes do want, and since we don't jump I don't worry about inadvertantly yanking on his head.

 

[little_critter]

I'm not really a bitless rider as such but have ridden bitless using my serrata (working in hand bridle). I know of many others that also ride in them - especially ones who follow Straightness Training
It's probably similar to a sidepull but the chain in the noseband prevents it slipping as much.

 

[Beausmate]

Do you have the bosal on your list? Never used one, just thought I'd add it anyway.

 

[lelly]

I have used an English hackamore before and got on very well with it. I used it for hacking and jumping and my mare went well in it. She was very fussy in the mouth with a bit and was much easier in a hackamore. The shanks are quite short compared with some I've seen. I will be following this thread as I now have a young horse with a fat tongue and low pallate who is proving tricky to bit. She puts her tongue over the bit so I might end up going hitless with her.

 

[Brightbay]

I have used a variety of bridles. The slipping issue is best resolved, in my experience, by choosing a different kind of headpiece, with a jowl strap instead of a throatlatch. The Micklem bridle is an example of this, and there's also a beta bridle (called a C-Bit bridle as it's designed to be used with a specific sort of bit) that fastens this way. If you choose that kind of bridle and attach one of the sidepull nosebands (flower hack, happy wheel, LG zaum, Orbitless, the Micklem nose attachment, cavesson, or just a plain noseband with rings), the slipping issue is largely resolved. This comes with a caveat Some schooling is necessary so that you're not needing to be pulling hard on one rein.

My preference is for these kinds of bitless, but I have, in the past, used a Dr. Cook style, a Light Rider, a Corbin bitless bridle.

Barefoot also do something called a "Bitless Bit" which would be a hackamore with very mild leverage action.

In terms of contact, I am still developing my youngster and finding the key with him is to have him trained to listen very carefully to seat cues (I use a lot of rewards). That means I can keep contact with the noseband as a very distinct cue - if I don't have to haul on his nose to stop him, but stop through breathing/posture/movement changes, the contact on his nose can come to have a quite distinct meaning for him. It helps that he's very sensitive.

With my older horse, I taught from the ground that matching a light contact on the noseband had meaning - so if I pick up the reins and just leave them in loops, he walks in a relaxed frame, if I pick up the reins until I "feel" his head movements he reciprocates and starts to channel energy "up" as well as forwards (I have a seat/posture change as part of this process too). Hard to describe, but nice to experience.

I know of a few other Bitless types - for example Karen Rohlf sells one and there are a few other classical style trainers who offer training cavesson style bridles.

ETA - the LightRider, imo, is a form of scawbrig. I didn't like it as it slid too much from side to side and tended to "stick". One of the first bridles I used was a Libby's scawbrig, better design but less durable (it as webbing and the buckles were poor quality).

 

[theprettybrains]

Thinking about trying a hackamore with two sets of reins - a scawbrig or sidepull sort of thing as the snaffle rein... Thoughts?!

Will add bosals to the list - best for neck reining presumably?

 

[Bungo]

I ride both my horses in a Dr Cook, but have established all of the control from free schooling ground work, so rather than rely on the bridle I use voice commands as a reinforcement of what I require. My mare is a 17hh pure Irish Draught so about 650kg of pure power and my other horse is a 15;3hh ISH again a powerful but well trained horse. Both were originally broken on a bitted bridle but I prefer to ride bitlless and find they are far more responsive to the combination of voice command & pressure & release rather than the pain of the metal bit. I find it takes time & patience to find what the horse feels comfortable in. If in doubt find a good free minded trainer who can help you. I have greatly benefited from working with Melanie Watson at Skidby East Yorks. Hope this is helpful.

 

[Bungo]

Both my Dr Cooks are leather not the beta version which I believe can stick a bit.

 

[huskydamage]

I ride in an s hackamore as my main bridle, I have an english one for fun rides etc and use a bit only for hunting (which I don't do very often!) I did try a bitless bridle once but pony just galloped down road in it! Never had a problem with my hackamores.if you put your fingers in and pull the s especially is really not much different to riding in a headcollar! I heard all this stuff about breaking noses and scarring faces. I have seen my ponys mouth bleed from a bit, all the hackamore ever did was leave a sweaty mark on her nose. I can't see how you could injury a horse with a hackamore unless you sawed on it or something really rough. I'm sure if I did things like hunting more regularly I would not need the bit again ever. I have a kind of emergency stop I can do in a bit but not a hackamore so still have to use for that. But I never use a bit for hacking for 2 years now.