Contact - arms by side

[Marigold4]

I'm trying to improve the steadiness of my hands by keeping my arms by my side. I tend to round my shoulders and have short arms. When I manage to achieve arms hanging by my side and shoulders back, my reins feel very long, particularly in trot. Horse is young, bouncy in trot and has a good length of neck. I feel as though I have much less control riding like this but perhaps I just need to get used to a different feel?

Any tips appreciated.

 

[blitznbobs]

control shouldn’t be coming from your hands it should be coming from you Seat, core and legs which you can’t do if you are leaning forward (rounding your shoulders) hands should be in front of you with elbows bent so your reins don’t need to be long. What does your instructor say?

 

[Marigold4]

control shouldn’t be coming from your hands it should be coming from you Seat, core and legs which you can’t do if you are leaning forward (rounding your shoulders) hands should be in front of you with elbows bent so your reins don’t need to be long. What does your instructor say?

 

[FourWhiteSocks]

Get your reins the right length (ask for advice and put some tape on if you need a guide) and very gently roll your shoulders back into place without adjusting the length of the rein. Think of it as aligning heel, hip and shoulder, rather than 'moving your hands'. Do this throughout your ride, gently, without force or tension. Remember the horses head usually comes higher in trot so you will usually need to shorten your reins. Do this then repeat the gentle roll back of your shoulders. Good luck and well done for caring about the steadiness of your hands, we can all work on this me included.

 

[Marigold4]

In reply to BlitznBobs I'm doing all that but feel that with my hands where they are, if young horse decides to do something silly, I'll be on the floor. It would be difficult to get his round if he decides to take off or get his head up if he bronks. Perhaps a neck strap is the answer. PS I have REALLY short arms.

 

[Marigold4]

Get your reins the right length (ask for advice and put some tape on if you need a guide) and very gently roll your shoulders back into place without adjusting the length of the rein. Think of it as aligning heel, hip and shoulder, rather than 'moving your hands'. Do this throughout your ride, gently, without force or tension. Remember the horses head usually comes higher in trot so you will usually need to shorten your reins. Do this then repeat the gentle roll back of your shoulders. Good luck and well done for caring about the steadiness of your hands, we can all work on this me included.

 

[ycbm]

Remember the horses head usually comes higher in trot so you will usually need to shorten your reins.

I can see that this will help this poster in the short term on a young horse and she should try it. In general, though, this shouldn't be the case except with an inexperienced rider. A dressage test can't be ridden by continually shortening and lengthening the reins with each movement. The adjustment is done by have a loose shoulder and arm and allowing the hand to move a little forwards and backwards.

.

 

[Marigold4]

Thanks, fourwhitesocks. I'll give that a go. My instructor tells me NOT to shorten my reins for trot?! I've always shortened a little for the reason you state. Trot is our problem area.

 

[Carrottom]

I am similarly challenged with short arms, if I have my elbows at my sides I cannot carry my hands in front of me without them being wide apart. I find the answer is to ensure the straight line from my bent elbows to the horses mouth, the compromise is that my elbows are slightly forwards.
I'm interested in other's solutions.

 

[Marigold4]

I can see that this will help this player in the short term and she should try it. In general, though, this shouldn't be the case except with an inexperienced rider. A dressage test can't be ridden by continually shortening and lengthening the reins with each movement. The adjustment is done by have a loose shoulder and arm and allowing the hand to move a little forwards and backwards.

.

Just questioning so that I get this right - so would you perhaps have reins that are slightly too short and elbow/hand more forward in walk, so that they end up correct length in trot?

 

[ycbm]

In reply to BlitznBobs I'm doing all that but feel that with my hands where they are, if young horse decides to do something silly, I'll be on the floor. It would be difficult to get his round if he decides to take off or get his head up if he bronks. Perhaps a neck strap is the answer. PS I have REALLY short arms.

He's way stronger than you, though. Your shorter reins may be mentally making you feel more secure but possibly that's not what's stopping him from running off or bronking?
.

 

[Marigold4]

I am similarly challenged with short arms, if I have my elbows at my sides I cannot carry my hands in front of me without them being wide apart. I find the answer is to ensure the straight line from my bent elbows to the horses mouth, the compromise is that my elbows are slightly forwards.
I'm interested in other's solutions.

Glad I'm not alone. I would like some arm extensions!

 

[ycbm]

Just questioning so that I get this right - so would you perhaps have reins that are slightly too short and elbow/hand more forward in walk, so that they end up correct length in trot?

They may feel "slightly too short" for you at the moment but eventually you are aiming for a ride where you walk trot and canter without shifting your hand position on the rein. So in walk you'll be pushing your hand forward a bit, in trot maybe keeping it neutral and in canter you might be bringing it back some. You could have a look at some YouTube videos and see what people are doing on younger horses.
.

 

[Marigold4]

He's way stronger than you, though. Your shorter reins may be mentally making you feel more secure but possibly that's not what's stopping him from running off or bronking?
.

He's pretty well behaved. We ride in a fenced field that's next to a footpath and near a bridleway. At any moment a loose dog or pack of riders may appear, so I would need to be able to react quickly.

 

[ycbm]

He's pretty well behaved. We ride in a fenced field that's next to a footpath and near a bridleway. At any moment a loose dog or pack of riders may appear, so I would need to be able to react quickly.

Have a look at Western one rein stops. They ride with the reins in loops then if there's an issue you raise one hand high and bring the horses head around. It works really well without shortening the reins.

ETA I don't ride youngsters on a short rein because I think it can cause them to bottle up and explode, so the Western one rein stop is my go to in the situation you describe.
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[Marigold4]

They may feel "slightly too short" for you at the moment but eventually you are aiming for a ride where you walk trot and canter without shifting your hand position on the rein. So in walk you'll be pushing your hand forward a bit, in trot maybe keeping it neutral and in canter you might be bringing it back some. You could have a look at some YouTube videos and see what people are doing on younger horses.
.

I'll give this a go today. We do lots of warm up work in walk first, then with instructor saying don't shorten, I'm finding the reins too long for trot. Our problem area is trot, so maybe I should work out what's perfect for trot, then use this length for walk and canter.

 

[Ratface]

I'm a great fan of Western one rein stops! The Old Horse believes that the only pace worth going at is the fastest. In all circumstances. Obviously, this can be highly dangerous. The last time we went for a hack, he cantered sideways all round the lanes.
He's turned out from 7am to 17.30pm and fed a plain forage based ration, bedded on barley straw and has ad lib hay.
He's an Arab, but his relatives, with whom he lives, are cheerful, but not as determinedly "onward bound" as him.
If I'm feeling a bit wimpy, I'll do groundwork and then get on!

 

[Ratface]

What I should have also added is that ordinary downwards transitions are achieved by stomach muscle tightening . I'm finding it really difficult to describe in words what I've been doing by habit for decades. I also have very long arms and legs, so starting with a distinct advantage.
Keep practicing, you'll definitely get there!

 

[Pearlsacarolsinger]

Take care not to fix your arms, you need to allow forward movement with your hands by flexing your elbows.

 

[littleshetland]

Try to keep a bend in your elbows at all times, and focus on your seat as being your 'speed control'. Try some '5s and 5s' ie. walk for 5 steps, and trot for 5 steps (5 steps or thereabouts..) coming back to walk without using your hands at all, just your seat. It doesn't have to be a big trot - just a soft change from walk to trot. Focus on your seat and your hands and elbows staying soft and the same....it'l get easier in time! good luck!

 

[Rumtytum]

I’m in the short arm club too! Following with interest.

 

[Marigold4]

What I should have also added is that ordinary downwards transitions are achieved by stomach muscle tightening . I'm finding it really difficult to describe in words what I've been doing by habit for decades. I also have very long arms and legs, so starting with a distinct advantage.
Keep practicing, you'll definitely get there!

Lucky you with the long arms! Short arms are a distinct disadvantage. Short legs, not so much as you have good contact with horse's sides, but short arms are not so good.

 

[Marigold4]

Any one with short arms got any advice?

 

[PinkvSantaboots]

I ride someone's advanced dressage horse sometimes and she teaches quite a few people on him and she uses coloured rubber reins on his bridle, they are multi coloured blocks down the rein and I find them brilliant for keeping your hands on the right bit continually, maybe get a pair and have some lessons with them.

 

[little_critter]

I do remember seeing a comment from Pammy Hutton (I think) where she had been telling a gentleman his hands were too far forwards and he should bend his elbow more, yes more, even more. That’s it. Then she realised that while his hands were now in the ‘right’ place, his elbows were now sticking out behind him…..he had very long arms.
So rein length and hand position does need to take into account arm length too.

 

[FourWhiteSocks]

Thanks, fourwhitesocks. I'll give that a go. My instructor tells me NOT to shorten my reins for trot?! I've always shortened a little for the reason you state. Trot is our problem area.

Your instructor is absolutely correct. However, while we are finding our feel I think it's ok to adjust rein length (while aiming towards the kind of riding ycbm describes). The shoulder rolling can really help with breathing too, and creates the relaxed, balanced upper body which has a bonus of helping us stick on during those 'Oh Shit' moments which often come with youngsters.

 

[Sossigpoker]

Thanks, fourwhitesocks. I'll give that a go. My instructor tells me NOT to shorten my reins for trot?! I've always shortened a little for the reason you state. Trot is our problem area.

Once the rider has a stable core and balance AND the horse is educated enough to work "on the bit" consistently , then you absolutely should be able to ride in any pace with the same length of rein.
But as many, if not most, amateur riders aren't in that boat (I'm not !) or their horses aren't,.then you will need to adjust the rein length.
The hardest thing for the learning rider , in my own experience, is to learn to ride with enough impulsion and give into an active walk - as we often struggle with this ,the horse then pokes his nose out and that's why we feel the need to give more rein. (This can also be a naughty habit that the rider has allowed the horse to develop )

Core stability is the key here and being able to put your hands forward- rather than lengthening the rein - without rolling your shoulders forward also and this takes time.

I find it really useful to have someone video my riding so I can see for myself what I'm doing

 

[moosea]

He's pretty well behaved. We ride in a fenced field that's next to a footpath and near a bridleway. At any moment a loose dog or pack of riders may appear, so I would need to be able to react quickly.

I'm sorry to tell you but you won't stop him reacting with the reins. He is stronger than you are

Rein contact is a funny thing, and hard to teach because it is individual to each rider and to each horse.
You can't have a good contact without having enough impulsion created by the leg. If you create impulsion with the leg and are unable to hold that impulsion with your body - seat and core mainly - then you will create speed. Likewise if you create impulsion and hang onto the mouth you will create upwards or backwards energy.
You should be looking to create impulsion ( energy) with your leg and push that energy into your hands, where you can control (Maintain ) or gather ( collect ) or release ( forward movement) that energy. Your seat and core play a vital role in allowing or holding that energy. Tightening your core will help to hold and softening will help to allow.

You should be able to maintain a contact even on a long rein, I find it very hard to get a true contact with a horse on short reins. This is because I find short reins encourage me to tip forwards and to lose contact between my seat and the horse, and also adds my weight to the horses forehand, making it more difficult for the horse to bring his hind leg underneath himself and work through.

I'd suggest, if it is safe to do so - trying to achieve a contact on a longer rein in walk, but rather than picking up the contact, drive the energy forwards into a soft hand and elastic wrist and elbow.

While it is correct to have your upper arms relaxed at your side they are not required to never move!! You can't give a soft feel to the horse if your arms are locked into place.
If you find you are losing the contact into trot then check you are sitting up straight and not tipping forwards. Open the front of your shoulders and this should help.

 

[Lois Lame]

Any one with short arms got any advice?

I don't have short arms BUT they feel short when they are where they should be.

I always felt safer with my arms stretched out, and my instructor used to tell me that where my arms were was his business, but how long my reins were was my business.

That didn't stop him from suggesting, "You might want to... " (was it lengthen or shorten???) "... your reins." (This was after I had put my arms where they should be.)

I actually don't think it's got much to do with arm length. It's our chicken rating. I have a high chicken rating (I'm just making this chicken rating thing up as I type) and I think I am five out of five chickens.

I think what us high chicken raters need to do is realise that, come the crunch, we can easily shorten our reins by grabbing them with one hand and sliding the other hand down the reins. We need to realise we are not at Death's door if our arms are hanging nicely at out sides.

 

[Marigold4]

I'm sorry to tell you but you won't stop him reacting with the reins. He is stronger than you are

Rein contact is a funny thing, and hard to teach because it is individual to each rider and to each horse.
You can't have a good contact without having enough impulsion created by the leg. If you create impulsion with the leg and are unable to hold that impulsion with your body - seat and core mainly - then you will create speed. Likewise if you create impulsion and hang onto the mouth you will create upwards or backwards energy.
You should be looking to create impulsion ( energy) with your leg and push that energy into your hands, where you can control (Maintain ) or gather ( collect ) or release ( forward movement) that energy. Your seat and core play a vital role in allowing or holding that energy. Tightening your core will help to hold and softening will help to allow.

You should be able to maintain a contact even on a long rein, I find it very hard to get a true contact with a horse on short reins. This is because I find short reins encourage me to tip forwards and to lose contact between my seat and the horse, and also adds my weight to the horses forehand, making it more difficult for the horse to bring his hind leg underneath himself and work through.

I'd suggest, if it is safe to do so - trying to achieve a contact on a longer rein in walk, but rather than picking up the contact, drive the energy forwards into a soft hand and elastic wrist and elbow.

While it is correct to have your upper arms relaxed at your side they are not required to never move!! You can't give a soft feel to the horse if your arms are locked into place.
If you find you are losing the contact into trot then check you are sitting up straight and not tipping forwards. Open the front of your shoulders and this should help.

I wasn't thinking I would stop him reacting with shorter reins, but it would definitely be easier to nip a reaction in the bud by turning his neck or preventing him getting his head down. I understand that he is stronger than me but he is also obedient and will listen. I'm not particularly fond of falling off as it would be a bad experience for both of us.

Thank for your advice on seat and use of reins. I definitely need to open my shoulders and keep them back. I have a terrible habit of rounding them which automatically puts my elbows forward. I do this in everything I do off the horse too so its really ingrained. Great tips on impulsion! Thank you.