Dried up hard bridle needs TLC!

Overgrown Pony

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Hey guys

Can anyone please give me some tips on how to revive my dried out bridle?

It received a really good drenching out riding at the beginning of January. I did clean it that evening (think it was some NAf stuff i'd grabbed from the tack shop) and it seemed ok.

However my horse has been off work with the mother of all foot abscesses since. Got his bridle out and it's all dried out and pretty hard with white areas (doesn't look like mould).

Any help much appreciated.
 

my bfg

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I treat any dried out leather like I do any new leather, I wipe it over then soak it in neatsfoot oil overnight, lay it on a cloth to dry then give it a good saddle soaping
 

Tnavas

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Wash with warm water to clean, on the outside use a clear boot polish and on the underside several light layers of Fkexalan or Hydrophane. Warm the oil a little as it's absorbed quicker.. Only apply a little at a time. Don't overdo the oil as it can breakdown the strength of the leather.

Using the clear shoe polish on the outside helps to waterproof the leather and is what saddlers use to put the polish on new leather.
 
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Hoof_Prints

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Do not use neatsfoot oil on leather, it weakens it an ruins the stitching!(or so i'm told). Warm water and saddle soap regularly should do the trick, and a good leather conditioner. Can't remember what it was called, but I bought a little bottle of conditioner for extremely dry and damaged leather, it was amazing ! I put tonnes of it on and left the bridle under a slightly warm radiator so it absorbed well.
 

Tnavas

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^This. Use a good balm or Ko Cho Line etc but please no neatsfoot oil.

Ko Cho Line leaves the leather so gluggy sticky. My ex Cavalry officer instructor used it and the leather was always sticky.
I've 30 year old leather bridles still in regular use, all have been maintained with either Flexalan (UK) or Hydrophane, here in NZ.
 

Baileyhoss

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Noooo! Not neatsfoot! It'll kill it! Clean with a dampened cloth and work in a good conditioner. There are lots of good ones. Cremedemonthe makes his own recipe. Look for something thick with natural oils fats beeswax, steer clear of glycerine or silicone. I like sedgwicks own or abbey 1982 which used to be hoopers 1882.

Don't soak anything. Once the leather is clean, Apply the conditioner sparingly, work in really well and allow to dry before repeating.
 

lhotse

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I really rate the Lincoln Leather Balsam for restoring leather after it has got wet. Rub it on with your fingers, the warmth from your hands helps it to absorb. It's great for chapped hands too!!
 

Orangehorse

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Well, I am learning lots! I always use KoChoLin for really stiff old leather, works a treat. Don't use it all the time, but just an occasional conditioner treatment.

Ditto Neatsfoot. Never heard that it would rot stiching or leather. Flexalan, however, does rot the stiches.

Live and learn.
 

Minstrel_Ted

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My double bridle received a soaking last year and Abbey do wonderful leather stuff that seemed to fix it right up, I have always been told that anything with cow fat in it will be good for leather!! :)
 

Tnavas

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Baileyhoss I've always used Glycerine and have the most lovely tack.
My tack goes to Pony Club for most rallies where it is hung up for riders to study, I have a massive amount of gear, bought primarily as examples for riders to learn what they are, how they work and fit. People. Kids and parents often ask how I get my tack so nice, supple and clean.

I have only ever used Glycerine, Hydrophane/Flexalan on the underside, and clear shoe polish on the outside.

Generally tack that has rotted stitching has not been cared for properly in the first place. Sweat and grit do more damage.

If tack is in good condition in the first place getting wet should not cause any problems.
 

pennyturner

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I have a couple of 100 year old driving harnesses which were revived with Ko-Cho-Line; now back in use after 60 years in a hessian sack. Just don't try to bend it whilst it's still stiff, or it will break the fibres.

Original use was to slap all over your harness before putting it in storage. It's magic gloop.
 

moana

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NEVER use Neatsfoot Oil. Ko-cha-line is for storing leather.
Get yourself some decent Leather Balm such as Effax.
 

Ashgrove

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I use Ko-Cho-Line or One step, both work a treat.

Ko-Cho-Line I use more for long term soaking because of the stickiness, but when the leather is put back together and used it is beautiful.
 

LessThanPerfect

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Sorry if this is a stupid question but what should you use neatsfoot oil for then and why do they sell it if it is so bad for leather? When I was a kiddy we always used neatsfoot oil ( I don't think they sold anything else), is neatsfoot compound the same as neatsfoot oil? Sorry for all the questions but I am a returning "Lady of a Certain Age" rider.
 

Mince Pie

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I may get a real slap on the wrist for this but I put my old tack in the washing machine :redface3: No washing powder, and wash on a short, cool wash, then when it's nearly dry put conditioner on it. I did mine at the beginning of the year and haven't done them since, still are nice and supple :)
 

Tnavas

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Sorry if this is a stupid question but what should you use neatsfoot oil for then and why do they sell it if it is so bad for leather? When I was a kiddy we always used neatsfoot oil ( I don't think they sold anything else), is neatsfoot compound the same as neatsfoot oil? Sorry for all the questions but I am a returning "Lady of a Certain Age" rider.

I too used it in the past with no problem at all.

I firmly believe it is salt from sweat and accumulated gritty dirt and poor general care of equipment that is likely to rot stitching. Stitching does wear away eg, tops of stirrup leathers, girths and reins. I've had stitching replaced because it has worn through but never rotted.

Pure Neatsfoot oil is made from the shin bones and foot bones of cattle and is 100% fine for leather. Check labelling as the addition of mineral oils such as Liquid Paraffin may cause stitches to rot.
 
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