Fertilising fields?

almrc

Well-Known Member
Joined
13 March 2007
Messages
846
Visit site
I have 2 fields a winter and a summer field. They moved out of their winter field in May and I hope to move them back to the winter field end of Sept/Oct. Now, as soon as they move out of their top field I want to put calcified seaweed on it.

Is it too late to put this on the bottom winter field?

What do you do/use? What else do ou do with your summer/winter fields and when?

Thank you :D
 

Mike007

Well-Known Member
Joined
28 May 2009
Messages
8,222
Visit site
calcified seaweed is basicly a trace element dressing with some liming effect. And very good stuff it is. It is not too late to dress any of your fields,but please also be aware that you do need to dress with phosphate and potash to negate the "camping " effect of equine grazing.(or to put it in other words ,horses eat all the nutrients from all over the field and poo them in one corner)
 

almrc

Well-Known Member
Joined
13 March 2007
Messages
846
Visit site
oh I see, thank you. So what would I need to do first? Sorry this is all new to me! And it would be ok to do the winter field now, for when they go on it in Oct? How often would you put this on the fields, would it be every rotation or once every so many years?
 

LittleBlackMule

Well-Known Member
Joined
15 August 2010
Messages
1,667
Location
West Sussex
Visit site
Hmmmm.. I've used calcified seaweed.. it's okay, but you'd be better off using a 20 10 10 mix or similar from your local feed merchant. Spread it in autumn or spring (preferably both) combined with spot treating any broad leaved weeds (docks, thistles, ragwort, knapweed) in about May.
 

almrc

Well-Known Member
Joined
13 March 2007
Messages
846
Visit site
That makes a lot of sense, thank you. So do this in Autumn/spring ideally in both fields? Is it ok for them to graze on it as soon as it has been done or do you need to leave it for a bit?
 

LittleBlackMule

Well-Known Member
Joined
15 August 2010
Messages
1,667
Location
West Sussex
Visit site
You should ideally fertilize just before rain to allow it to soak into the ground. Depending on how wet it's been you can let the horses back on within a week. (wetter sooner, drier later).
With weedkillers, refer to manufacturers instructions. I use Pastor which is pretty safe and the horses can go back on a week later.
 

Mike007

Well-Known Member
Joined
28 May 2009
Messages
8,222
Visit site
Ah ha little black mule! where have you been lurking. You are a bit of a pasture guru on the quiet. Welcome aboard.
 

Arkmiido

Well-Known Member
Joined
29 June 2010
Messages
359
Visit site
calcified seaweed is basicly a trace element dressing with some liming effect. And very good stuff it is. It is not too late to dress any of your fields,but please also be aware that you do need to dress with phosphate and potash to negate the "camping " effect of equine grazing.(or to put it in other words ,horses eat all the nutrients from all over the field and poo them in one corner)

With regard the "camping" - would this therefore be part of the argument for harrowing, resting, rotating and topping paddocks, as opposed to poo picking? I suspect that the gees are stripping the nutrients out of the soil and I'm carefully piling it in a corner of the field... My acreage currently resembles a sub-saharan dust bath despite being fertilized in the spring, and weed-killed... It doesn't help that I have a couple of inches of soil on solid chalk downland which is terribly well drained - probably much better suited for grazing sheep than warmbloods because I'm currently struggling to support 3 1/2 big horses and 3 1/2 mini shetlands, on 15 acres :-( and actually having to feed haylage! Any suggestions?!
BTW, worm eggs counts are nil or low for my guys.
 

LittleBlackMule

Well-Known Member
Joined
15 August 2010
Messages
1,667
Location
West Sussex
Visit site
Well, although your field might appreciate having the droppings harrowed, that isn't going to do anything for your worm count:)
Fact is, all the maintenance in the world aint gonna compensate for the lack of rain!

Keep picking the poos, spread some 20 10 10 in the spring and grin and bear it:cool:
 

Mike007

Well-Known Member
Joined
28 May 2009
Messages
8,222
Visit site
Cocksfoot grass seed, Cocksfoot is very drought resistant ,but a little difficult to manage. Introduce it into your sward.
 

Rose Folly

Well-Known Member
Joined
29 June 2010
Messages
1,906
Location
North East Somerset
Visit site
I was told by my feeddmerchant that there was no need to take the horses off the field after dressing with calcified seaweed, as it is a natural product. So I didn't! Don't know whether it was right or wrong???, but the horses were all absolutely fine, and yes, it's a super fertilizer in my book - steady growth, and leaves the grass 'horse-rich' not 'dairy-cow rich' if you see what I mean. Our laminitic is fine with it. Oh, and the neighbours will love the seaside smell!!
 

Arkmiido

Well-Known Member
Joined
29 June 2010
Messages
359
Visit site
Just looked on the Progreen website, noticed they do soil analysis-
Has anyone had any experience with having trace elements /pH analyzed and then fertilizing/treating accordingly? Basically does it make a significant difference?!
Is it worth me fertilizing again in the autumn? When could I do it at the earliest? I am desperate for grass!!! Even after all this rain, it still looks like the Sahara out there... Thinking about having it all re-seeded too - not sure about how effective over-seeding would be, and when the best time to do it would be? Spring or this autumn?
If soil analysis is worth doing, can anyone recommend a company that I can send a sample to? Do you take multiple samples? I am on solid chalk (no prizes for guessing the pH there), my grazing also gets munched by my sheep and pigs after the horses have been on it.
 

Nic

Well-Known Member
Joined
4 November 2005
Messages
6,989
Location
Scotland
Visit site
We used 16 16 16 last year but it just didn't have enough oomph. So after convincing fertilizer guru I did indeed need more grass(!) we went with 20 10 10 which worked a treat. Think they said 25kg bag an acre roughly.
 
Top