lea
Well-Known Member
What is the best way to introduce my horse to flying changes?
Flying changes
- Thread starter lea
- Start date
Mel85
Well-Known Member
Try looking at the advice on this website. It gives a good explanation and good advice:
http://www.classicaldressage.co.uk/FlyingChange/flying_change.html
http://www.classicaldressage.co.uk/FlyingChange/flying_change.html
Tierra
Well-Known Member
Well, theres different methods I guess but here's my take on it.
For me, there are two main pre-requisites for flying changes.
1) That the canter is of a good quality with the horse showing a degree of self carriage and engagement.
By self carriage I want the horse to be working from leg to hand and feeling light in the rein. By engagement, I mean I expect the horse to be able to sit back onto it's hocks to collect the canter. You want a canter that feels collected, has a nice "jump" and feels uphill. This should be present in both true and counter canter.
2) Simple changes are established and the horse can remain calm and collected through these.
A nice simple exercise for these is to ride a three loop serpentine in canter. Every time you cross the centre, ask for walk. Aim for 4 walk strides before picking up the canter again. Your transitions should be of a good quality. That is to say, the horse doesn't collapse into the walk and immediatly flop onto it's forehand. Even though you're slowing down, the transitions should feel uphill.
At this point, the horse should have no problem with picking up a canter on either lead (true or counter), regardless of whether you're on a circle or a straight line.
The reasoning behind ensuring your counter canter is of good quality is that it strengthens the canter generally by increasing the horse's balance and collection. It also helps the rider by encouraging a more independent seat. This is particularly important with changes if you choose to progress onto tempi changes.
Make sure you're using the correct aids for the counter canter and not just riding on the wrong canter lead. This is also vital to ensure that the horse understands what you're asking him to do. This means that your inside leg will be slightly behind the girth preventing your horse from switching canter lead. Your outside leg will be on the girth maintaining the impulsion. I place slightly more weight onto the outside seat bone when riding counter canter also. Technically, the horse should be flexed to the outside but I don't stress over this to begin with. The initial aim should be that the horse can maintain the counter canter without either dropping to trot at corners, switching legs or running disunitied. Once the balance is established, you can start to flex the horse to the outside *slightly*. Only start this when the horse is offering self collection - working from your leg, into the hand.
The Aids for Flying Changes
Before attempting, make sure the horse is in a nice canter. Again, it should be collected and showing self carriage but it also needs to be moving forwards. Too many people try and collect their horses up too much when they first begin flying changes and this isnt the way forward. I start flying changes by counting the canter strides and making the following preparations
Stride 1:-
Half half - Be subtle!
The use of a half halt here is to ensure the horse is sat back on it's hocks but also to warn him that something is about to happen. Your canter still needs to be moving forwards well so dont be harsh on the half halts. For me, a half halt is purely through my seat, I sit deeper into the saddle and clench! In all honestly, its probably worth practicing half halts in canter BEFORE thinking of flying changes.
Stride 2:-
Move the Legs
Your normal canter aids are the inside leg on the girth and outside leg behind the girth. You need to switch these around. The outside leg needs to come forwards and the inside leg needs to slide backwards. At this point, the legs should be passive. That is to say, just because they're moving, doesnt mean they should be pressing or interfering with the horse. If you do, the horse will start to swing it's haunches and make banana shapes. This will make it very very difficult for him to change leg.
Something to consider here. Try and avoid having your outside leg too far back. There only needs to be a couple of centimetres difference between an inside leg and an outside leg. If your outside leg is way way back it takes longer to switch the legs around. While this isnt too much of a problem for one change, imagine when you're aiming to change every single stride. Be subtle!
Stride 3:-
Change
This is the stride where you activate the legs and give the signal for the horse to change. Your new inside leg should press gently and that's the point that the horse should change.
There are other things to consider during the change however.
Some people believe you should use your weight to help reinforce the aid to change legs - i.e. shift your weight from your inside seat bone to the "new" inside seat bone. I don't do this. I only shift my weight over after the change is completed to allow the new inside hind to come under.
During the change you need to be able to give with the inside rein. Your outside rein should be able to maintain the speed of the canter but if you hang onto the inside rein, it restricts the horse. This is precisely why the preparation work for flying changes is so damn important. Before even thinking about them, I'd aim to be able to give and retake the inside rein, in both canter and counter canter, without affecting the horse's pace or collection. This will only occur if you can hold your horse between your back, leg and a very light contact. If the canter isnt right, then giving with the outside rein will likely tip the horse straight onto it's forehand and any collection will be lost. You want to feel like the horse is really sitting back onto his haunches and he's holding his outline just through you having a contact on the reins. If you have to fight or fiddle with the reins constantly, then it's worth working more on the canter and teaching the horse to work up and into the contact. Most people know the feeling once this occurs - it feels fantastic!
Also, I dont flex my horses necks when im asking for the change, this just produces crooked changes in my opinion. When you turn up the diagonal and begin the preparation to change, keep your horse straight. Really focus on a point at the opposite end of the diagonal and ride towards it. Only worry about flexing to the inside again once the change is completed. Similarly, I dont stress over them not being on the bit when they first start to change. It's easy to get a horse back very soon after the change (assuming the canter is good to begin with.)
Early changes often result in the horse changing legs infront but not behind. This is where they become disunited and you should be able to feel this easily. Don't panic if this happens, just keep applying the aid to change. If they ignore it, back it up with a tap with a schooling whip. Repitition is the key with changes, practice makes perfect. Make sure the horse really, really knows when he's changed correctly. Make him feel like the best horse in the world! Horsies like to be praised and often we dont do it enough.
Finally and ive mentioned this before in regards to flying changes. I teach them on the diagonal line for a reason. Because you're asking a horse to switch it's legs about, some horses get their legs in a knot or get excited when learning changes. This can result in them kicking out behind (my PSG horse still does this occasionally, although usually when I ask from a not so fabulous canter). Ive seen youngsters break fencing through doing this and as such, I dont move to changes on the long sides until the horses are quite adept at them
Any further questions or ideas for exercises to improve the canter, just ask.
Oh and once last thing. It's also possible to teach flying changes over poles. I personally don't do this, primarily because our horses are purely dressage horses and adding poles to the equation can just cause issues
The showjumpers might be able to offer better ideas on using poles to teach changes though
For me, there are two main pre-requisites for flying changes.
1) That the canter is of a good quality with the horse showing a degree of self carriage and engagement.
By self carriage I want the horse to be working from leg to hand and feeling light in the rein. By engagement, I mean I expect the horse to be able to sit back onto it's hocks to collect the canter. You want a canter that feels collected, has a nice "jump" and feels uphill. This should be present in both true and counter canter.
2) Simple changes are established and the horse can remain calm and collected through these.
A nice simple exercise for these is to ride a three loop serpentine in canter. Every time you cross the centre, ask for walk. Aim for 4 walk strides before picking up the canter again. Your transitions should be of a good quality. That is to say, the horse doesn't collapse into the walk and immediatly flop onto it's forehand. Even though you're slowing down, the transitions should feel uphill.
At this point, the horse should have no problem with picking up a canter on either lead (true or counter), regardless of whether you're on a circle or a straight line.
The reasoning behind ensuring your counter canter is of good quality is that it strengthens the canter generally by increasing the horse's balance and collection. It also helps the rider by encouraging a more independent seat. This is particularly important with changes if you choose to progress onto tempi changes.
Make sure you're using the correct aids for the counter canter and not just riding on the wrong canter lead. This is also vital to ensure that the horse understands what you're asking him to do. This means that your inside leg will be slightly behind the girth preventing your horse from switching canter lead. Your outside leg will be on the girth maintaining the impulsion. I place slightly more weight onto the outside seat bone when riding counter canter also. Technically, the horse should be flexed to the outside but I don't stress over this to begin with. The initial aim should be that the horse can maintain the counter canter without either dropping to trot at corners, switching legs or running disunitied. Once the balance is established, you can start to flex the horse to the outside *slightly*. Only start this when the horse is offering self collection - working from your leg, into the hand.
The Aids for Flying Changes
Before attempting, make sure the horse is in a nice canter. Again, it should be collected and showing self carriage but it also needs to be moving forwards. Too many people try and collect their horses up too much when they first begin flying changes and this isnt the way forward. I start flying changes by counting the canter strides and making the following preparations
Stride 1:-
Half half - Be subtle!
The use of a half halt here is to ensure the horse is sat back on it's hocks but also to warn him that something is about to happen. Your canter still needs to be moving forwards well so dont be harsh on the half halts. For me, a half halt is purely through my seat, I sit deeper into the saddle and clench! In all honestly, its probably worth practicing half halts in canter BEFORE thinking of flying changes.
Stride 2:-
Move the Legs
Your normal canter aids are the inside leg on the girth and outside leg behind the girth. You need to switch these around. The outside leg needs to come forwards and the inside leg needs to slide backwards. At this point, the legs should be passive. That is to say, just because they're moving, doesnt mean they should be pressing or interfering with the horse. If you do, the horse will start to swing it's haunches and make banana shapes. This will make it very very difficult for him to change leg.
Something to consider here. Try and avoid having your outside leg too far back. There only needs to be a couple of centimetres difference between an inside leg and an outside leg. If your outside leg is way way back it takes longer to switch the legs around. While this isnt too much of a problem for one change, imagine when you're aiming to change every single stride. Be subtle!
Stride 3:-
Change
This is the stride where you activate the legs and give the signal for the horse to change. Your new inside leg should press gently and that's the point that the horse should change.
There are other things to consider during the change however.
Some people believe you should use your weight to help reinforce the aid to change legs - i.e. shift your weight from your inside seat bone to the "new" inside seat bone. I don't do this. I only shift my weight over after the change is completed to allow the new inside hind to come under.
During the change you need to be able to give with the inside rein. Your outside rein should be able to maintain the speed of the canter but if you hang onto the inside rein, it restricts the horse. This is precisely why the preparation work for flying changes is so damn important. Before even thinking about them, I'd aim to be able to give and retake the inside rein, in both canter and counter canter, without affecting the horse's pace or collection. This will only occur if you can hold your horse between your back, leg and a very light contact. If the canter isnt right, then giving with the outside rein will likely tip the horse straight onto it's forehand and any collection will be lost. You want to feel like the horse is really sitting back onto his haunches and he's holding his outline just through you having a contact on the reins. If you have to fight or fiddle with the reins constantly, then it's worth working more on the canter and teaching the horse to work up and into the contact. Most people know the feeling once this occurs - it feels fantastic!
Also, I dont flex my horses necks when im asking for the change, this just produces crooked changes in my opinion. When you turn up the diagonal and begin the preparation to change, keep your horse straight. Really focus on a point at the opposite end of the diagonal and ride towards it. Only worry about flexing to the inside again once the change is completed. Similarly, I dont stress over them not being on the bit when they first start to change. It's easy to get a horse back very soon after the change (assuming the canter is good to begin with.)
Early changes often result in the horse changing legs infront but not behind. This is where they become disunited and you should be able to feel this easily. Don't panic if this happens, just keep applying the aid to change. If they ignore it, back it up with a tap with a schooling whip. Repitition is the key with changes, practice makes perfect. Make sure the horse really, really knows when he's changed correctly. Make him feel like the best horse in the world! Horsies like to be praised and often we dont do it enough.
Finally and ive mentioned this before in regards to flying changes. I teach them on the diagonal line for a reason. Because you're asking a horse to switch it's legs about, some horses get their legs in a knot or get excited when learning changes. This can result in them kicking out behind (my PSG horse still does this occasionally, although usually when I ask from a not so fabulous canter). Ive seen youngsters break fencing through doing this and as such, I dont move to changes on the long sides until the horses are quite adept at them
Any further questions or ideas for exercises to improve the canter, just ask.
Oh and once last thing. It's also possible to teach flying changes over poles. I personally don't do this, primarily because our horses are purely dressage horses and adding poles to the equation can just cause issues
Louby
Well-Known Member
Thanks Tierra, thats a great reply. We've touched on flying changes too across the diagonal but my boy anticipates, comes back at me and kicks back or bucks each time HE thinks we should do one. We very rarely practice them to try and stop this anticipation but he's a bugger. I think hes really trying to please but he gets very tense if we canter across the diagonal or even up the centre line as he thinks we are going to do one. I try to push him forward and do counter canter or bring him back to trot but he wont forget. My instructor says not to worry, that things will go wrong at first and we have to practise to get them better but sometimes instructor will say do a change and my boys done it before Ive even asked.
It was nice to hear that your PSG horse still kicks back occasionally as I thought my horse was one of a kind!!.
Thanks for the great post.
It was nice to hear that your PSG horse still kicks back occasionally as I thought my horse was one of a kind!!.
Thanks for the great post.
Tierra
Well-Known Member
My horse also becomes very tense the second we turn up a diagonal line in canter. Ive even had issues with him in the past whizzing off up the diagonal line when I attempt to canter a 20m circle.
When he tenses, his canter becomes very very short and slightly "prongy" is the best way to describe it - a bit like if you imagine a deer bouncing about. He'll tend to then come above the bit. It's very very tempting at this point to "fight" them back down into an outline, but dont. Just ignore them. The outline should always be coming from your leg, not your hand. When my horse becomes tense to the point that he's above the bit, I give slightly with my hand but push more with my leg. They have to learn that the hand wont be used as a punishment. As riders we have lots of ways to punish a horse, but the hand should never ever be it.
Couple of things to try to combat this.
Firstly, as you say, really push him on when you turn across the diagonal. Keep your contact firm but soft and really really push with your seat. If you're intending on not changing, keep him flexed as you would in true canter and keep your outside leg behind the girth. Also really use your weight onto your inside seat bone (the one that is soon to become your outside).
So, picture that you're on right lead canter and about to turn up the diagonal with the intention of maintaining a canter (so moving into counter canter). Before you attempt this, make sure the canter is nice and bouncey and the horse is sat back on his hocks. You should be able to give and retake the rein in canter (with the inside hand), without interfering with his rhythm. This is a good indicator that the canter is set up nicely.
When you turn up the diagonal, make sure your outside leg is behind the girth but sat passively. The horse needs to be able to "feel" its there but doesn't want to be reacting to it. If its too strong, you'll push his quarters out and he'll be in a banana shape. Use your inside leg firmly, not to create speed but to help create flexion. You want the horse bent around this leg. The flexion should only be slight. You should only just see your horse's inside eye.
You need to be very very careful when pushing your outside leg back, that it doesnt twist you in that direction. Its a very common fault that when someone slides their outside leg back, they twist in the same direction (sorta counter balancing theirselves). The problem with this, particularly with a more advanced horse, is that you'll inadvertently be giving a very subtle aid to change. So! Whilst keeping that outside leg back, sit on your inside seat bone. Not so you're unbalancing yourself or the horse, but you need to feel more weight in that inside seat bone than in the outside. I also tend to turn my shoulders to the inside also, almost as if you were "thinking" shoulder in. Remember that horses will look where you look and if you place your shoulders more to the inside, the horse will tend to follow.
Once you've got your position set, you need to ride positively up the diagonal aiming for counter canter at the other side. Initially, Id be happy if the horse kept in counter canter and managed even half a lap of decent quality canter. At this point, make him think he's the bestest horsey in the whole wide world.
I wouldnt stop practising flying changes completly, but perform them in different contexts. For example, change legs up a long side on the track or use a three loop serpentine with changes of legs.
I always use my voice a lot when I train my horse. Most horses respond greatly to the voice so make sure they know when they've either done something good or not.
As your instructor has said, dont stress over it. Lots of people have issues with horses that predict changes and it really will improve with practice.
As you correctly identified, many horses change because they think it pleases their rider. After all, someone has probably spent a lot of time getting them to change
If my horse gets exceptionally stressed with something Im asking him to do in canter work, he'll go down the long side doing one time changes just for the hell of it. It's annoying as hell, but ive always been of the opinion that he uses them to try and say "look! i can do these and these make me clever and you happy!"
In regards to the bucking and kicking out when changing. Jack (my horse) only does it when he's not collected enough and sat back on his hocks. This makes logical sense when you think about it. (If they're sat back, they arent in a physical position to be kicking out. If they're slightly on their forehand with a disconnected back, then fly kicking is much easier!)
All i can really say aside from that, is to persevere
Weight aids can be very influential in preventing the horse from changing leg, so use them to full advantage.
One final thing I just thought of in regards to horses that predict changes up the centre line. Use lots of shoulder in and canter half passes back to the track. If you just turn up the centre line in canter and dont do anything, the horse will be assuming you're wanting flying changes. If you turn up and immediatly start asking new questions of him, then he'll be more interested in what's being asked than in changing his legs. And dont worry if you cant produce technically perfect canter shoulder ins or half pass, thats not essentially the point - its just to be asking him something else
If you need anymore advice, just ask
When he tenses, his canter becomes very very short and slightly "prongy" is the best way to describe it - a bit like if you imagine a deer bouncing about. He'll tend to then come above the bit. It's very very tempting at this point to "fight" them back down into an outline, but dont. Just ignore them. The outline should always be coming from your leg, not your hand. When my horse becomes tense to the point that he's above the bit, I give slightly with my hand but push more with my leg. They have to learn that the hand wont be used as a punishment. As riders we have lots of ways to punish a horse, but the hand should never ever be it.
Couple of things to try to combat this.
Firstly, as you say, really push him on when you turn across the diagonal. Keep your contact firm but soft and really really push with your seat. If you're intending on not changing, keep him flexed as you would in true canter and keep your outside leg behind the girth. Also really use your weight onto your inside seat bone (the one that is soon to become your outside).
So, picture that you're on right lead canter and about to turn up the diagonal with the intention of maintaining a canter (so moving into counter canter). Before you attempt this, make sure the canter is nice and bouncey and the horse is sat back on his hocks. You should be able to give and retake the rein in canter (with the inside hand), without interfering with his rhythm. This is a good indicator that the canter is set up nicely.
When you turn up the diagonal, make sure your outside leg is behind the girth but sat passively. The horse needs to be able to "feel" its there but doesn't want to be reacting to it. If its too strong, you'll push his quarters out and he'll be in a banana shape. Use your inside leg firmly, not to create speed but to help create flexion. You want the horse bent around this leg. The flexion should only be slight. You should only just see your horse's inside eye.
You need to be very very careful when pushing your outside leg back, that it doesnt twist you in that direction. Its a very common fault that when someone slides their outside leg back, they twist in the same direction (sorta counter balancing theirselves). The problem with this, particularly with a more advanced horse, is that you'll inadvertently be giving a very subtle aid to change. So! Whilst keeping that outside leg back, sit on your inside seat bone. Not so you're unbalancing yourself or the horse, but you need to feel more weight in that inside seat bone than in the outside. I also tend to turn my shoulders to the inside also, almost as if you were "thinking" shoulder in. Remember that horses will look where you look and if you place your shoulders more to the inside, the horse will tend to follow.
Once you've got your position set, you need to ride positively up the diagonal aiming for counter canter at the other side. Initially, Id be happy if the horse kept in counter canter and managed even half a lap of decent quality canter. At this point, make him think he's the bestest horsey in the whole wide world.
I wouldnt stop practising flying changes completly, but perform them in different contexts. For example, change legs up a long side on the track or use a three loop serpentine with changes of legs.
I always use my voice a lot when I train my horse. Most horses respond greatly to the voice so make sure they know when they've either done something good or not.
As your instructor has said, dont stress over it. Lots of people have issues with horses that predict changes and it really will improve with practice.
As you correctly identified, many horses change because they think it pleases their rider. After all, someone has probably spent a lot of time getting them to change
In regards to the bucking and kicking out when changing. Jack (my horse) only does it when he's not collected enough and sat back on his hocks. This makes logical sense when you think about it. (If they're sat back, they arent in a physical position to be kicking out. If they're slightly on their forehand with a disconnected back, then fly kicking is much easier!)
All i can really say aside from that, is to persevere
One final thing I just thought of in regards to horses that predict changes up the centre line. Use lots of shoulder in and canter half passes back to the track. If you just turn up the centre line in canter and dont do anything, the horse will be assuming you're wanting flying changes. If you turn up and immediatly start asking new questions of him, then he'll be more interested in what's being asked than in changing his legs. And dont worry if you cant produce technically perfect canter shoulder ins or half pass, thats not essentially the point - its just to be asking him something else
If you need anymore advice, just ask
mangobiscuit
Well-Known Member
I know I didn't ask the initial question but have been looking into counter canter and flying changes recently. My boy (like many) automatically changes when we change rein as this is what has been always expected when jumping but we are now concentrating on a bit of dressage so this explanation has been GREAT!! Might go and have a bit of a session tomorrow. Thanks Thierra!
Tierra
Well-Known Member
No problem at all. If you need any further specific advice, feel free to shoot me a private message and i'll try to help as much as possible
mangobiscuit
Well-Known Member
Thank you! I may well have to pick your brain at some point!
x
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Louby
Well-Known Member
Sorry lea for hijacking your post and thanks tierra for the great advice.
My boy feels exactly as you describe going across the centre line especially the coming above the bit and hollowing. When I send him on, he just doesnt move and its hard work but he normally has a great balanced canter which is why we have touched on flying changes.
Ive had him since he was just backed at 4, he is 7 now and its been a steep learning curve for us both, hindered by lots of time off due to a GA for tooth removal etc.
I never dreamed we would be doing movements like this, he isnt your text book dressage horse but really is talented and finds lateral work a doddle, its me!!! but finally it seems to be coming together.
Thanks for the enouragement and advice. I cant wait to practice (out of action again at the mo with a swollen fetlock!!)
My boy feels exactly as you describe going across the centre line especially the coming above the bit and hollowing. When I send him on, he just doesnt move and its hard work but he normally has a great balanced canter which is why we have touched on flying changes.
Ive had him since he was just backed at 4, he is 7 now and its been a steep learning curve for us both, hindered by lots of time off due to a GA for tooth removal etc.
I never dreamed we would be doing movements like this, he isnt your text book dressage horse but really is talented and finds lateral work a doddle, its me!!! but finally it seems to be coming together.
Thanks for the enouragement and advice. I cant wait to practice (out of action again at the mo with a swollen fetlock!!)