Gas Ram Strut Damper - IW 403

coss

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Has anyone had problems with their damper in the hitch going wrong? Last year mine had "worn out" - every time I braked it would put the break on (so not faulty in that sense) but when pulling away I would hear a knock like the hitch was being pulled forwards before it would pull the box. The damper was worn out - so much so that the guy who serviced it was able to push the hitch in against the break by hand.
Now I'm not getting the knocking but can feel the brakes come on sooner/harder than necessary under light braking on the car. Anyone else had this issue? And also - problems with reversing the trailer - fine on the flat or down a slope but brake goes on full if there is a slight (very! slight) incline.
 

Fruitcake

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Mine can do this in damp weather. It has been quite wet recently. There’s a hill with lights at the bottom about a mile into my most usual journey (with no need to brake much before) and this tend to be where I feel it. OH told me to warm the brakes up before I need them by doing some gentle braking every few seconds when I first set off. It works a treat and they don’t stick on if I do this.

The same, apparently, is true for the reversing issue. I have to reverse around a corner on a slight slope to put the trailer away. Because I only travel a couple of miles for my lesson, apparently, the brakes haven’t always warmed up and this tends to be the point where they stick most. I’ve found that doing the warming up thing helps with this, as does making sure I brake really gently to bring the trailer to a stop and waiting a second before starting to reverse (rather than switching quickly from first to reverse).

Might be worth a service to check for rust on the brakes too (?)
 

coss

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Mine can do this in damp weather. It has been quite wet recently. There’s a hill with lights at the bottom about a mile into my most usual journey (with no need to brake much before) and this tend to be where I feel it. OH told me to warm the brakes up before I need them by doing some gentle braking every few seconds when I first set off. It works a treat and they don’t stick on if I do this.

The same, apparently, is true for the reversing issue. I have to reverse around a corner on a slight slope to put the trailer away. Because I only travel a couple of miles for my lesson, apparently, the brakes haven’t always warmed up and this tends to be the point where they stick most. I’ve found that doing the warming up thing helps with this, as does making sure I brake really gently to bring the trailer to a stop and waiting a second before starting to reverse (rather than switching quickly from first to reverse).

Might be worth a service to check for rust on the brakes too (?)

Thanks for reply. Brakes were all done within the last 10months and the trailer gets regular (all being it short journeys) use so doubt the breaks are rusty. Have it booked in to be seen. I've tried gentle breaking too but obviously don't like to do this with horse on board and it totally refuses to reverse on even a slight incline making me think the reverse mechanism is faulty - possibly not the gas ram (which was at fault previously and have checked I can't manually compress the break) the trailer starts to reverse when I've stopped but then the break goes on and it's not just a little sticky but totally locked and can only be pulled forward.
 

Fruitcake

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They don’t have to be rusty for this to happen. Apparently, the moisture in the air absorbs into the brake linings and causes them to “snatch” and “grab”. By warming them up, the brakes act in a more progressive manner.

The reversing issue is exactly what happens with mine! It gets totally locked and won’t budge at all backwards if it’s damp and I haven’t done lots of gradual, warming up braking during the journey. It really does sound like a damp brake lining issue.

According to OH, it’s just what happens with trailer brakes. Short journeys can make it worse as any dust that lies in the bottom of the drum will attract the moisture and create a wedge effect. If the brakes don’t get up to temperature, the dust doesn’t naturally disperse.

OH suggested that you could try having the brake adjustment rod adjusted to put a little more slack on it to make it a little less sensitive. Apparently, this means the brakes work nearer the end of the movement, rather than the beginning and could help with the reversing issue. (Apparently, this is how he sets mine up when he does the brakes).
 

coss

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They don’t have to be rusty for this to happen. Apparently, the moisture in the air absorbs into the brake linings and causes them to “snatch” and “grab”. By warming them up, the brakes act in a more progressive manner.

The reversing issue is exactly what happens with mine! It gets totally locked and won’t budge at all backwards if it’s damp and I haven’t done lots of gradual, warming up braking during the journey. It really does sound like a damp brake lining issue.

According to OH, it’s just what happens with trailer brakes. Short journeys can make it worse as any dust that lies in the bottom of the drum will attract the moisture and create a wedge effect. If the brakes don’t get up to temperature, the dust doesn’t naturally disperse.

OH suggested that you could try having the brake adjustment rod adjusted to put a little more slack on it to make it a little less sensitive. Apparently, this means the brakes work nearer the end of the movement, rather than the beginning and could help with the reversing issue. (Apparently, this is how he sets mine up when he does the brakes).

Thanks for that - I'll certainly try some light braking between now and it being seen by a professional :)
 

coss

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Just a quick update - the brake rods needed replaced as were worn. Not just a case of warming the brakes (in my case).
 
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