Hacking a horse with a 'panic button'

BBP

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My little horse is awesome, he schools nicely in the field and the arena, he learns tricks, goes over tarps and under fly curtains, follows me around like a dog, anything I ask of him, willingly and with a lovely attitude. But he has a real 'panic button' and it shows itself if hacking on his own. If he spots something that triggers it he freezes, his heart starts hammering, he shakes all over like a jelly and will blow through his nose like a dragon. He is almost frozen to the spot but I can tell that he would spin and bolt. If I press him because I can't see anything scary he will rear and leap (not full height, just unseating). It's like a pure adrenaline overload, doesn't matter how tired he is, it just takes him over. I don't believe it is naughtyness at all.

He is happiest in the open countryside, he is not totally relaxed but marches on smartly and is pretty good, but as soon as I get into a village he gets really on edge, jumping at everything and on high alert. whilst I feel like I stay relaxed, I'm sure he picks up on my awareness of the extra traffic (so I can't let him just stop and work things out).

In company he is great, and what he really needs is to hack out in company with a sensible horse, every single day until each route is familiar. But the only other horse I know who is suitable is recovering from a tendon injury so is on restricted walk work. He doesn't seem to have enough confidence in me as a rider to overcome the level of adrenaline to get through it. If I lead him, or someone walks on foot he is a little better, but if he does panic obviously it is quite daunting.

Any suggestions on how I should handle this? Do I take the pressure off, stick to the 1 hr loop that he is happy with and only attempt the other routes once the other horse is able to do them. Do i do more desensitising work with him? Do I try to find someone who will walk with me on foot?

I don't want to scare him or put us in a position where we are going to get hurt, just for the sake of a hack...but I have never had a nervy hacker before! (he used to panic in the school as well, but is now lovely, so I know there is hope! he is brilliant with traffic, its random stuff like house doors opening, wheelbarrows in gardens, cats meowing, even though he sees it all at home)

Thank you
 
He sounds so similar to my lad out hacking, after the panic button goes off he's on edge for the rest of the hack but some loops he never get's upset and others are just a nightmare.

I would try going out with other horses so he gets used to the places he doesn't like and hopefully he'll start enjoying himself and would be happy to do the hack by himself.

Other than that I just sit out the sillyness and try to enjoy the rest of the hack.

Will be keeping a close eye on this thread though for solutions.
 
Mine was like this....he's much better now but I did spend a fair amount of time on foot leading him around certain routes...I don't often have anyone to hack with either.

He's much improved....and now he's more confident in general its like an upward spiral.

Although he still does have his nobberish days admittedly.:)

The more relaxed I am ( or force myself to be;)) the better he is.

Good luck.....little steps eh?:D
 
you have just described my mare! She is perfect in company, but on her own she isnt so great. She has a severe lack of confidence! Last night is a great example, out hacking round the tracks with my friend on foot and we see a couple of horses coming along the track about 300 yards away and she just froze to the spot! you can poke and tap her face with the whip and she is completely unresponsive! then she grows about 3 hands and is snorting and on edge! but she does it with anything! even a car in the distance! yet she is great but green on the roads in company! Luckily i have a friend that walks on foot with me to build her confidence and she can grab hold if anything happens.
 
Mine has one of those - bulging eyes, snorting, would prefer to trip herself up through rearing and spinning than go anywhere near the non-existant problem - usually on roads, and there's NOTHING to see! With calmer she's reasonable (as in, a couple of spins, doesn't trip herself up, will go forward with persuasion), and that's only after several weeks' worth of hacking out with another horse. Highly recommend ProKalm - it's still nerve wracking at times to hack her, but we survive!
 
My old mare was like this, when she had a moment I used to get off and walk with her till she'd settled then jump back on again - its not a sign of failure to get off especially if it gives you both confidence and keeps you safe. It will help your bond as each time he meets something scary you're helping him through it so you will, in his eyes, become dependable.

I'm not a Monty diehard but I once asked him for advice on my mare that wouldn't hack out on her own, his reply "But she's not on her own she's with you!", so taking that pearl of wisdom on board I went home to improve my relationship with her, it took us a few months of effort but by improving our groundwork at home and getting off when necessary out hacking we got there. :)
 
Could you do some in hand hacks and then long rein him so he gets used to being in front? We use Equine America Magnitude and have found that to be a reasonably priced and effective calmer. You use such a tiny amount of it that it goes on forever.
 
I echo the "but she's not on her own, she's with you" comment - someone said this to me once too and it made a massive difference. I say "come on, you're ok, you've got me and i'd never let anything happen to you" out loud to my mare if she tenses up when we're out on our own and somehow that makes me feel braver. Personally I'd keep up the hacking alone on routes you're happy with mixed in with the other routes in company, so you don't feel like you're taking a step backwards and not hacking alone at all but equally you're not forcing the issue on a route you're less comfortable with.

Good luck and keep the updates coming :)
 
Yes my boy is like this, not so extreme, especially when you say he will follow you anywhere, because he needs a leader, it is insecurity, also manifests as spookiness, I have had a lot of problems with mine, he was really quiet to break, as it was all taken so slowly, but there is no doubt he is a "reactor".
You need to go right back to basics to build his confidence in his own strengths, he needs to do loads of ground work ie poles and grids, he will always follow you, but you need to get the long reins on, and "ask" him to do it on his own.
The "marching" is typical, I thought "what a great hack he needs no urging forward", but actually he was scared, and his marching was making him go too fast for his brain, so he kept puting himself under pressure, eventually it would become all to much and he whipped round, eventually he could not leave the yard.
He is not a bad boy, everyone knows he is a lovely ride, but he needs careful handling, he is "backwards" thinking, needs plenty of basic schooling to go off the legs, his instructor rides him for me [long story] and spends most of lesson walk, trot, walk, trot, walk, trot, walk trot, serpentines, circles, poles, all designed to make him come off the leg at the instant you ask.
I put him on Steady up from Feedmark, as the soil round here is low in magnesium, he gets no sugars no molasses and as little grub as possible [YO thinks he is being starved!], soaked haylage and loads of outdoor [in the field with friends] exercise.
He has rather a lot of lady friends which he loves, but still is a baby [calender age 7], so I have to be careful how I handle him, firm but fair, I have to teach him to be his "own person" I do not encourage his "fear" by re-assurance, as this might bes sen as encouraging his "fears". Very tricky to balance all his needs, but he MUST learn to go off the leg, that is the main requirement.
Don't forget to sing as you go along, hopefully he will be so distracted by this that he will forget about lions and tigers.
 
Id install your own panic button deactivation system :-D have you heard of the one rein stop? The basic concept is you disengage the hind quarters and get their attention back on you so they relax. Train it in the school, flex your horse gently to your boot on one side, and gently hold him there until he stands and relaxes, then release and reward. Once its established in halt, try in walk, then trot etc until its established in all paces and he responds immediately by stopping and relaxing as soon as you flex. Then take this out on hacks and use it every so often until he understands. I used to ride a mare who's panic button was to rear and this worked so well, she was disengaged and listening before she could even start to prepare to rear :-)
 
Oh I should have said, read his ears at all times when out on hack, and make sure he obeys the leg yield, you cannot allow yourself to be dictated to by his emotions [as is the natural thing], you are his boss and he must obey, even if you need to get off and lead him past the scary thing, it is your choice, not his!
 
Thanks for all the tips guys. I already do a few (singing, hopping off and leading, leading him on hacks out). You are right about the marching, he is still on the alert for monsters. His ears are always jammed forwards, whereas when he is out in company they will flop sideways, as if all the pressure has been taken off him to look after both of us. I keep telling him he has me to protect him, sometimes that's enough, sometimes I think he doesn't believe me, which is why I think something is lacking even though I have always considered us to have a good bond. The long reining is a good idea, I haven't done that in ages. i don't think I will do it on hacks with him as I think he could get us in trouble, but I will try to give him some challenges out in the fields to give him confidence.

I have used a calmer before (tried Blue chip kalma, naf one and another) and not noticed much difference, but at the time he was mainly hacking in company and quite well behaved, so it may be worth trying again. He is also turns his nose up at feed with it in. I have used a syringe So kalm Plus for taking him new places...not sure how effective it is as he seems to have a talent for spitting it out!
 
Thanks for all the tips guys. I already do a few (singing, hopping off and leading, leading him on hacks out). You are right about the marching, he is still on the alert for monsters. His ears are always jammed forwards, whereas when he is out in company they will flop sideways, as if all the pressure has been taken off him. The long reining is a good idea, I haven't done that in ages. i don't think I will do it on hacks with him as I think he could get us in trouble.
That is exactly why you need to do it out on hacks, carry a whip to tap him on the bum, but get him out and forward going, what can he do, you are on the ground already, so tough totty to him, he needs to learn to look after himself, believe me he will do!
 
In all honesty I don't trust that I am competent enough long reining him to hold him if he decides to spin and bolt, I don't trust that he or I wouldn't get tangled in the reins and cause an accident. the area I live in has way too much fast moving traffic for me to feel safe doing it. I completely understand what you are saying though and why it would benefit him.
 
A genuinely useful product - the RS-tor - www.rstor.co.uk - could help here. Helps prevent falls and aids rider confidence, if you know your horse is about to have a wobble. John Whitaker and Sarah Millis can't be wrong!
 
If you can ride him , you can long rein him, [as long as he is not a kicker], you just have to learn how to do it, and keep yourself absolutely looking up his bum! keep him moving forward and don't put up with any nonsense.
Start off in the arena, with poles just as you would do normally, and graduate to fields etc, you will learn to react faster than him, it is so much easier when you are on the ground.
You only need two reins, and hold one in each hand, even if you only do it on a circle at first, it is like lunging but you have extra control because you have two reins.
Ask your instructor how to do it, and make sure he learns to go forward instinctively.
Has he bolted before?, if he tries just make sure he comes round in a circle so he has to work hard while you stand in the middle and relax. It is not the end of the world if you have to let go the outside rein, but best to hold on to both reins, you will have reins attached to the bit rings, and through the lunge roller or the stirrups, so unless very very strong, and very mad, he will calm down and behave.
It is best to carry a driving whip, but this takes quite a bit of practice, slapping his barrel with the reins and encouraging noises works for most horses.
 
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Mine used to be a complete donkey as a 4yo with others if he has his head up their backside, but as soon as he was in front/on his own it was a total shock to him that there was a big wide world out there!

It took me hacking out with other people, and hacking on my own to fix this. I just had to bite the bullet and get on with it. Mine would spin/rear (still does sometimes!) and refuse to turn back the other way, leaping every which way but where I wanted him to go. I did try every (IMHO) option, tried growling, smacking, etc what I found worked was making him stand still and patting him till he was calm before attempting to turn him again.

Sometimes this would take up to 10 spins before I could get him to turn around, one particularly trying day (last year, aged 10 :rolleyes: ) I was sat there for 15 mins until he was so beside himself (at a swing with a 'ghost' child on it - well it was moving by itself in the wind :D ) I had no option to get off. :)
 
My gelding is just like this. He hates villages or overely busy places. I decided to risk going through the village the other day and spent 15mins in somebodies tree but had no idea what he was looking at. We now avoid these places and situations unless were with another horse when he is ok if he follows. If we ever get into a stage that he's like that we just sit and wait until he goes past or if were in a situation that we can't stand around I get off and lead him past
 
You are perhaps right MrsD123, that like any skill I just need to take the time to work on it. I think perhaps I will stick to his happy route and schooling during the week, work on long reining and desensitising work, and then take him out very early on weekend mornings to do the other hacks so I can let him take his time. I might try to take him out in the lorry to some safe off road hacks so there is less pressure on the roads. He happily takes the lead when hacking in company, only occasionally needing a lead.

I don't think it helps that I have a herniated disc and sciatica, so everytime he jumps at something it sends shooting pains through me! Walking with him is just as painful. Ho Hum.
 
Time is a big factor here so keep on working with him. One tip, if you are worried about him taking off when you long rein, you can stop him with a single rein quite easily by "jacknifing" him, which completely disengages the hindquarters. I wouldn't recommend it as a matter of course, and I never had to do it myself but I have seen it done and it's very effective. The long rein gives you a natural leverage which you wouldn't have if they did the same thing just leading out on a leadrope.

Of course, may not do your back much good but I would second the longreining if possible, it worked wonders for my headcase TB.
 
Mine really lacked confidence hacking alone and would nap or spin. I used to be too scared to take him out alone but we have persevered and I now really enjoy hacking alone on him. At my old yard he flatly refused to go off the yard on his own and had to be chased. Not good. Under instruction we tried smacking him and it just made him worse. Moved yards (thank goodness) to the centre of a village, where we could hack with a friend until I knew routes before going it alone. We started just going a little way up the road and turning back via a gateway or turn-in. Nothing to over-face him. If we went further OH would walk in front or beside us to give reassurance. We always had a few naps or spins but I always ensured I won and we ended on a good note. I would dismount and lead him past really scary things. I found lots and lots of praise, reassurance and gentle rubs went a long way to show I him I was there to help him and he wasn't on his own. I learned to control my breathing so I didn;t come across as nervous as I was! Little by little and with regular (at least twice weekly) rides out alone his confidence grew as did mine. It took about a year to stop the napping altogether, he still has the odd moment but the difference is he now listens to me reassuring him, and tries to be brave for me.
He is now much better on the ground as well and more relaxed and happy generally, so it is definitely a holistic thing. I think they settle once they realise you are their leader and can be trusted to keep them safe. Just be patient, it takes time and don;t lose your temper or be tempted to punish what is just a lack of confidence.
 
If you can ride him , you can long rein him, [as long as he is not a kicker], you just have to learn how to do it, and keep yourself absolutely looking up his bum! keep him moving forward and don't put up with any nonsense.
Start off in the arena, with poles just as you would do normally, and graduate to fields etc, you will learn to react faster than him, it is so much easier when you are on the ground.
You only need two reins, and hold one in each hand, even if you only do it on a circle at first, it is like lunging but you have extra control because you have two reins.
Ask your instructor how to do it, and make sure he learns to go forward instinctively.
Has he bolted before?, if he tries just make sure he comes round in a circle so he has to work hard while you stand in the middle and relax. It is not the end of the world if you have to let go the outside rein, but best to hold on to both reins, you will have reins attached to the bit rings, and through the lunge roller or the stirrups, so unless very very strong, and very mad, he will calm down and behave.
It is best to carry a driving whip, but this takes quite a bit of practice, slapping his barrel with the reins and encouraging noises works for most horses.


A couple of points - if you're long reining on the road i'd keep your self slightly on his right rather than 'looking up his bum', traffic will have to give you a wider birth, he can see you out of the corner of his eye and you can keep an eye on his ears etc to gauge how he's feeling.
And i'd be wary of the attitude of 'not putting up with nonsense' and resorting to a driving whip and slapping him with the reins - we're talking about an worried insecure horse not a nappy one!
If someone was trying to get me to jump off the highest diving board I think threatening me with a stick and being heavy handed would make me less inclined to do it not more!
He's already marching blindly trying to get it over and done with so driving him forward will only exacerbate those feelings for him, only by giving him confidence and getting him to concentrate will he start to respond rather than react.
 
Don't worry, I have no intention of forcing him or getting too tough. He most definitely isn't nappy, he tries really hard to behave, so it's easier to keep calm with him. There has been some really good advice on here so thank you very much.

I have a couple of times, when on my own, gone down the 'scary route' and turned him round at a point well before the terrifying point (one of then is a blind s-bend down a hill with high banks and hedges, horses on one side, cattle and sheep on the other and closed over with trees so suddenly from light to dark, few local horses like it...I think he knows I don't like it either which won't be helping). I now can get him to within 50m of it quite calmly where I then turn round. My only worry would be that I am encouraging him to turn and go home, but I am hoping by asking for the turn before he starts getting too edgy it won't be so bad.
 
I'm not suggesting being heavy handed , just being calm, and positive, he needs to learn to walk out in front of the driver, and a whip will only be used to re-enforce commands, not to thrash him, you won't see many people in a driving carriage going out without a whip, which they use in a light manner. I don't think OP will manage a whip anyway as she is not used to long reining.
My own horse will follow me anywhere, but that is no good, he needs to learn to be self confident, and to walk out in a calm and rational manner. I can tell by his ears and his demeanor when he is ready to spin round, but we have not had an incident since the very early days. It is not advised to go out on the main road unless general issues have been resolved.
I find that the long reining helps to bring the horse on the the bit and so he will concentrate on commands from the driver, if OP's horse is like mine, he defaults to "head up" when he encounters a problem.
 
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