Had horse 3 weeks and still hasn't gained weight...

[GSLS]

Hi All, I've had my 14.2hh cob mare for 3 weeks now and she still hasn't put on weight. When I bought her she was surprisingly underweight with a horrible back especially (dips either side of the withers). She is 3 and had not done any work when I'd bought her. She has also lived out all winter without a rug and so is very hairy. Also she has not been hard feeded before.

The vet has checked her in every aspect and she has been wormed etc.

I am currently feeding her 1 stubbs scoop of Alfa-A-oil, 1 scoop of honeychop chaff (apple) and half a scoop of Bailey's cooked cereal... Split into 2 feeds per day. The vet has advised me not to feed her any mixes like Weight Gain by Allen & Page which is my favourite for putting on condition, or topline cubes etc, as apparently mutations such as club feet can be caused in heavier breeds when they are fed a lot of concentrate at a young age??? (Vet agreed)?

She is turned out 24/7 (lives out) on nice grass given we're coming out of winter with one other 11hh? yearling and she is in charge as I can see when they have been fed together in the field - she takes his food/doesn't let him have it sometimes despite the separate feed bowls. 9 times out of 10 I watch her eat the feed whilst tied up too make sure she finishes it - she rarely does though - she doesn't seem to like it (hence why I bought the honeychop chaff apple even though it won't put on weight).... She seems to like it the sloppier it is too...


In the field they also have a heston of hay and get bought another when they finish it - which means they have adlib hay that never runs out basically.

She has not put on any weight which I can tell as the girth has not got any tighter and she still looks thin... She has had her teeth done (2 weeks ago) and is turned out in a heavyweight with a neck or whatever according to the whether - I've never turned up and she's felt sweaty, for a cob I thought she's be fine in a lightweight but felt freezing under that, and seems nice and warm in the heavy so she doesn't shiver off any calories... She is worked for around 15/20mins per day with 1 or 2 days off per week.

If it was older I'd stick it on allen & page weight gain as it worked wonders on my TB but given her young age (rising 4) and that thing about mutations in heavier breeds I'm not sure what to do...

Any advice/suggestions welcome as long as they don't contain criticism cheers

 

[be positive]

I would stop working her just until she starts to improve any extra calories need to go into her condition not work, possibly some walking in hand for now. If she likes sloppy feeds something like speedibeet could be better than chaff which will have few calories and you are already giving her plenty to chew on with the alfalfa, linseed would also help with weight gain but it will be slow be patient, plenty of hay and time will be required.
Make sure the worming is correct, a worm count will be useful, physio may be worth considering to help with the muscle wastage.

 

[mynutmeg]

I'd get her onto sugar beet of some, plus a stud or youngstock feed. She's old enough now that you don't need to worry too much about developing OCD (which is one of the main concerns) so long as you don't go mental. 1-2 scoop spread over 2-3 meals a day would be fine and give the extra calories. Also don't forget we'll be getting grass through soon which will make the world of difference.

 

[MyLuckyStar]

Alphabeet is good for putting weight on, as is micronized linseed

 

[cptrayes]

You are choosing a very risky time of year to try to put weight on a cob reaching near maturity. If you give her a higher calorie intake than she needs now, and the sun shines next week and the grass grows with a vengeance, you'll be lucky if she doesn't get laminitis.

Leave her thin, it won't kill her, the spring will sort it out and you will not have to worry about restricting her grass intake so early if she starts the growing season a bit under weight.

I suspect your vet is using the "mutations" argument to try to put you off feeding her hard food. On ad lib hay she does not need it unless she is so thin that no-one in their right minds would dream of riding her.

 

[Maesfen]

Why on earth give her so much chop, no wonder she doesn't want to finish it?
Alfa is notorious for not doing much at all and tastes very bitter so many don't do well on it plus cobs don't need alfalfa, it's far too rich for them so I'd ditch that for a start.
Echo the not working her while she is still underweight, she needs that energy for growing not carting you about.
Also echo CPT totally, you'll be regretting the day you wanted weight on her very shortly especially if you don't want problems.
From very poor (1 - 2 on the scale) it will take a minimum of 9 months to get to the weight they should be as you need to take it very slowly; your feed at present is at least twice as big as it should be.

 

[ellie11987]

Why are you feeding both chop and alfa a oil? Alfa a oil, speedibeet and micronised linseed 3x a day would be my choice at this time of year. Wouldn't get too hung up on it at this time of year as Dr Green will soon pick her up.

 

[MissTyc]

Grass is round the corner ... but not here yet

Add lib hay + high quality forage should be sufficient for now. How old is she exactly? Is she a few months shy of 4 or still closer to 3? Was she worked in her previous home?

Think some serious consideration needs to be given to worming - such a young horse is likely to have a high burden esp as whoever let her get in such a state possibly didn't keep on top of the best worming programme ... Just speculating, but would be my first thought. Would do a 5-day Panacur, followed up with another Pramox (as there is high resistance to panacur, but it's a good soft start in case there is a heavy burden) ... Hit everything, encysted redworm as a priority, tapeworm ... and everything else

Good luck with her!

 

[GSLS]

In regards to all the suggestions on sugarbeet of some sort which I'm willing to try, I'm worrying about that making her fizzy? I've not had too much experience of feeding it to be honest but just going by what people have said...

And she is being fed "chop" and "alfa" because I was using the alfa a oil to put on condition as it's the only thing that I could think of to avoid any sort of mixes with concentrates... And she didn't like it (knew she wouldn't, not many horses do on its own as it's so bitter etc but as a cob she should be a little more greedy - but doesn't seem to value food much lol, doesn't interest her)...So added the honey chop apple as it's yummy and smells nice... again avoiding mixes upon vet's recommendations....

And then the cooked cereal is meant to be palatable for picky eaters in poor condition....

Could some people be a little less rude "carting you about"... Who said I was even riding her :S she is lunged and long reined? and walked out on hacks in hand... she was sold to me unbroken... so, please don't judge before you know the facts

And I have been told not to feed more than 1and a half to 2 stubbs scoops of food per feed for an animal of her size as they can't digest it properly - goes in one end and out of the other apparently so I'd rather not increase the size of her feed.

 

[GSLS]

Grass is round the corner ... but not here yet

Add lib hay + high quality forage should be sufficient for now. How old is she exactly? Is she a few months shy of 4 or still closer to 3? Was she worked in her previous home?

Think some serious consideration needs to be given to worming - such a young horse is likely to have a high burden esp as whoever let her get in such a state possibly didn't keep on top of the best worming programme ... Just speculating, but would be my first thought. Would do a 5-day Panacur, followed up with another Pramox (as there is high resistance to panacur, but it's a good soft start in case there is a heavy burden) ... Hit everything, encysted redworm as a priority, tapeworm ... and everything else

Good luck with her!

thank you she has had the 5 day panacur guard only at the moment when I got her

Vets had no suspicion of worms, I think she has just been left out all winter shivering without a rug so that's dropped condition and then probably not been given hay in the field. But this is not a fact.

Oh and she is 4 in June

 

[GSLS]

BUMP

 

[be positive]

Speedibeet is fibre mainly, very little sugar so should not make her fizzy, my horse on box rest gets it to keep his weight on without giving too much energy.
Linseed the same it is oil rich, low starch so ideal for weight gain and you only feed a tiny amount.
Any exercise will impact on how much weight she gains but as said the grass will be through soon and any condition needs to go on slowly 3 weeks is nothing really you will just be starting to fill her tummy and it will take time for her appetite to increase.

 

[GSLS]

Speedibeet is fibre mainly, very little sugar so should not make her fizzy, my horse on box rest gets it to keep his weight on without giving too much energy.
Linseed the same it is oil rich, low starch so ideal for weight gain and you only feed a tiny amount.
Any exercise will impact on how much weight she gains but as said the grass will be through soon and any condition needs to go on slowly 3 weeks is nothing really you will just be starting to fill her tummy and it will take time for her appetite to increase.

THANK YOU I will try speedibeet, thanks

 

[HardySoul1]

I would recommend you put a weigh tape on her once a week. I know you said girth not tightened but weightape will show smaller increases than this. Nothing beats looking at them but as you see her daily she may gain weight before you can be positive by eye alone, and it will reassure you of any progress. I also think 3 weeks is a very short time, although understand you wanting her to improve quickly. Keep her warm and enjoy getting to know her. Remember it can be harder to get and keep condition on growing immature animals, don't be too hard on yourself. Thin and healthy is better than rushed condition - look at all the poor show ponies with problems caused by their owners overfeeding and rushing things.
Good luck with her.

 

[LD&S]

I've never had a youngster so can't really comment on their specific feed but as someone has already said three weeks isn't very long for her to settle and though a cob she may still be finding her feet and stress doesn't help weight gain. If in a couple of months she has not gained then I would worry but for now as long as she's getting no worse don't fret too much.

 

[GSLS]

I would recommend you put a weigh tape on her once a week. I know you said girth not tightened but weightape will show smaller increases than this. Nothing beats looking at them but as you see her daily she may gain weight before you can be positive by eye alone, and it will reassure you of any progress. I also think 3 weeks is a very short time, although understand you wanting her to improve quickly. Keep her warm and enjoy getting to know her. Remember it can be harder to get and keep condition on growing immature animals, don't be too hard on yourself. Thin and healthy is better than rushed condition - look at all the poor show ponies with problems caused by their owners overfeeding and rushing things.
Good luck with her.

Thanks very much for your kind reply x

 

[GSLS]

I've never had a youngster so can't really comment on their specific feed but as someone has already said three weeks isn't very long for her to settle and though a cob she may still be finding her feet and stress doesn't help weight gain. If in a couple of months she has not gained then I would worry but for now as long as she's getting no worse don't fret too much.

Thanks I would post a picture but her tummy looks fine at a glance due to the winter coat (can't see ribs like a fine coated tb), it's her back that's horrid. thanks very much anyway.

 

[TwoStroke]

You are choosing a very risky time of year to try to put weight on a cob reaching near maturity. If you give her a higher calorie intake than she needs now, and the sun shines next week and the grass grows with a vengeance, you'll be lucky if she doesn't get laminitis.

Leave her thin, it won't kill her, the spring will sort it out and you will not have to worry about restricting her grass intake so early if she starts the growing season a bit under weight.

I suspect your vet is using the "mutations" argument to try to put you off feeding her hard food. On ad lib hay she does not need it unless she is so thin that no-one in their right minds would dream of riding her.

I agree with this. Feeding cereals to a young cob on the cusp of spring is a very risky strategy. I would strongly advise feeding fibre only and waiting to see what spring brings. If she's still a bit under come June then re-think, but laminitis is an extremely painful condition and you're pony is high risk. We'd all hate to hear that she comes down with it when the new grass comes through.

 

[Casey76]

If she is just three and hasn't been worked in the past, the boniness and the "hollows behind the withers" indicates lack of muscle rather than being underweight per se.

Have you condition scored her (score her neck to shoulder, flanks/belly and haunches separately) that would give you a better idea of what her condition actually is. Make sure you get a good feel under her winter woolies - though if she is anything like mine (who is rising 2 and has been outside most of the winter naked) she'll be moulting right now!

I think the workload is fine, keep the sessions short and sweet, and she will slowly start to build up the muscle (just remember there isn't a food on the market which can build muscle in certain areas )

 

[cptrayes]

OP you sound in a terrible rush about everything. You've had the horse 3 weeks and inspite of it being so thin it worries you, you have started breaking her in. Presumably she moved homes as well? She's had no time at all to settle and you're already posting to say you can't get weight on her.

Your posts sound as if you are an educated and responsible person, but it doesn't really fit with what you are doing with your horse.

My advice would be. Let her settle. Leave her on ad lib forage without hard food. In a few weeks time, when we get some nice weather, and she has a good relationship with you and with her new home, and the grass has started to fill her out a bit, then start to break her.

 

[ktj1891]

Plenty of quality hay/haylage as much as she wants, turnout, linseed, sugabeet, fast fibre, pure condition all good low sugar/starch feeds.

 

[Borderreiver]

Just to return to the question of worms. A horse of that age and condition is very likely to have worms. 5 day Panacur was a good start but I always advise a worm count about 10 days after that product as there can be a lot of worm resistance and you need to know if it has worked. Also need to worm for tapeworm. Worm control is not normally achieved in one go especially with youngsters. My own rescued yearling took about two years.
Bear in mind that Panacur, where it works at all will give you only about 6 weeks of cover before another dose is due. My choice would be worm count now to see where you are, give Equitape anyway which only treats tapeworm and when the next proper dose is given it should be plain Equest. At the lab we deal with questions like this every day so believe me I understand.

Good luck with your youngster.

 

[Highlands]

Worm test and see if that's the issue. Turn out and slowly add feed , don't be tempted to stuff it , little and often.

Don't work just wait, if no worms. Blood test. Is it a mare? Could be in foal?