Help with dog pulling on lead.

[RolyPolyPony]

We have a 2 and half year old staffy, we've had him for around 11 months now. His previous owners admitted they never took him out walking, just chucked him in the garden for a few mins for him to do his business.

He was awful on the lead when we first got him and he HAS got a lot better but still pulls on the lead when he see's another dog, person or even a cat. This doesn't usually bother me but, I am due to give birth any day and REALLY want to be able to walk him and push a pram at the same time once OH goes back to work. I have been working on his 'lead training' for months now (clicker training etc) and he is fine if we dont meet anyone else or if we go a way we ALWAYS go. I've tried him with a halti (spent 2 months trying to get him to accept it) but he hates anything over his nose and just rubs it off with front paws. I WONT put him in a choke chain, as I don't agree with them. He is currently wearing a normal harness as i prefer walking dogs in them than I do collars. I thought about an 'anti-pull' harness but he has quite sensitive skin and also easily loses fur if anything rubs.

Does anyone have any suggestions of what we could try on him?

 

[Spudlet]

Some dogs accept Dogmatic headcollars more easily than Haltis. However these are gadgets and they can't substitute training him to be in the right place, by your side. If he is behaving in familiar places you are clearly making progress, so now you have to try and transfer this to new locations. Be prepared to take some backwards steps doing this, and go back to basics for a bit - this is normal.

Have you been to a training class - this may help with his behaviour around other dogs, as he will get used to working even around others.

You may have to get someone to walk him while you are training him as a pulling dog + a pram = recipe for disaster... or get someone to babysit while you walk the dog. Do practice walking with the pram without a baby in it once you are more confident with him without the pram as the new element might send him backwards fror a short time. Also, don't attach him to the pram (unless you have ambitions for your child to grow up into a musher)

 

[CorvusCorax]

Try a Gentle Leader, Gencon or Canny Collar, much better than Haltis.
Don't ALLOW him to stop and rub it off, just keep walking smartly so he HAS to follow you, if you stop and let him rub it off, of course he will.

A normal harness, you're just strapping yourself to the strongest part of the dog. Futile for stopping pulling. That's why huskies are in harness, for pulling things.
Try a front leader which whips him round to face you.

I will not recommend a Lupi as one rubbed all the hair off my dog's underarm area and carved an X across his chest.

If my young dog pulls, we just stop. I don't say anything, I don't pay any attention, I just stop, or do a circle backwards so he is no further forwards. He goes nowhere, it's very boring. It takes a while and can be a bit of a pain, but it works.

ETA - that's just in a flat collar, he does sometimes wear a choke chain, but on the dead link, I've never needed to use it to stop him pulling. Much handier if your dog is in the sea/river/up to his neck in mud, than a fabric collar, apart from anything else!!!

 

[Twizzel]

I got Rosie a Loftus harness- google it, from Burghley last year. She pulls on a lead as goes around with her head down all the time, collar and lead wasn't comfortable for her and definitely wasn't comfortable for me! This harness is quite good as it's on a pressure/release type system, she is so much happier in it.

 

[lexiedhb]

Tis not an alternative for what CC said about the whole stop go nowhere thing which is tedious and pants and just generally YAWN (but effective) but i use a figure 8 headcollar, helps no end. like this

http://www.martingaleheadcollar.co.uk/#!/~/product/category=0&id=18664266

Also found the gentle leader effective but worried a bit about his neck when he did his launch etc routine as it leads from underneath. A harness with a ring on the front (chest) aswell as the top is also really good as they cant really pull if you are attached to their chest.

Also been looking at "silky leash training" recently- loads on Youtube- looks like a top idea if you have the time to teach it.

 

[CorvusCorax]

if you have the time to teach it.

Therein lies the problem with a lot of training issues.

I won't bore people with the story about my older dog but it involved a simple slip lead (or a choke chain, made of rope ) and an MP3 player and lots of legwork, going up and down and stopping and starting and it was boring as hell but it worked.
He was walked in a Gentle Leader when my mum was recovering from a shoulder OP, yes we had some amateur dramatics and airs above the ground but I just kept on walking and he soon stopped.

People are tired and hungry and just back from work and have to get the kids sorted and they have to get the dog out etc etc etc - nuts and bolts training takes a lot of time and a lot of repetition.

 

[lexiedhb]

Therein lies the problem with a lot of training issues.

I won't bore people with the story about my older dog but it involved a simple slip lead (or a choke chain, made of rope ) and an MP3 player and lots of legwork, going up and down and stopping and starting and it was boring as hell but it worked.
He was walked in a Gentle Leader when my mum was recovering from a shoulder OP, yes we had some amateur dramatics and airs above the ground but I just kept on walking and he soon stopped.

People are tired and hungry and just back from work and have to get the kids sorted and they have to get the dog out etc etc etc - nuts and bolts training takes a lot of time and a lot of repetition.

Tis very true- either you have the time or you dont........ and cheat (headcollar etc)

 

[EAST KENT]

Training lead..six foot..thin check chain,a a few about turns ,staffies are a piece of cake,they really do want to please.On the other hand,their big cousins ,bull terriorists..thick as planks and do whatever they want.

 

[BentleyBelly]

We had great success with an Easy Walk Harness until my father in law used a flexi-lead with it. Anti pull harness + lead they have to pull = pulling dog worse than before

 

[CorvusCorax]

A good lead is just as important as the collar/harness - a flexi lead is the worst (after a chain lead ) because the dog rewards itself - if I pull, I get even more lead. Oh and the only think you have to control said dog is a lump of plastic that can only be held in one hand!!

 

[FinnishLapphund]

We have a 2 and half year old staffy, we've had him for around 11 months now. His previous owners admitted they never took him out walking, just chucked him in the garden for a few mins for him to do his business.

He was awful on the lead when we first got him and he HAS got a lot better but still pulls on the lead when he see's another dog, person or even a cat. This doesn't usually bother me but, I am due to give birth any day and REALLY want to be able to walk him and push a pram at the same time once OH goes back to work. I have been working on his 'lead training' for months now (clicker training etc) and he is fine if we dont meet anyone else or if we go a way we ALWAYS go. I've tried him with a halti (spent 2 months trying to get him to accept it) but he hates anything over his nose and just rubs it off with front paws. I WONT put him in a choke chain, as I don't agree with them. He is currently wearing a normal harness as i prefer walking dogs in them than I do collars. I thought about an 'anti-pull' harness but he has quite sensitive skin and also easily loses fur if anything rubs.

Does anyone have any suggestions of what we could try on him?

Have you read My Dog Pulls. What Do I Do? and/or On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas. I can really recommend both books.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/My-Dog-Pull...=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1358348081&sr=1-3

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Talking-Ter...=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1358348081&sr=1-1


I also usually walk my three bitches in harnesses , however I also have three martingale collars with leads hanging in my hallway, which I sometimes use when I feel that I want more control. Personally I really don't like prong collars and I have a little bit of mixed feelings about electric collars, but regardless of what I or you prefer, I believe that you should use the sort of collar/harness that works for you and your dog.
If he doesn't listen to you with a harness on when there is a distraction, then maybe you need to try something else, even if it maybe isn't what you would prefer to use, like a martingale collar or a choke chain.



I have used an anti-pull harness on one of my late bitches many years ago, and I bought those fleece things that are meant to be put on horse halters ( http://www.horsetackco.com/index.php?main_page=popup_products_image&products_id=9423&popup=1 ) and put it on the anti-pull harness instead, I didn't have any problem with her skin or fur, however, as I recall it, it didn't take long before she was pulling even more in her anti-pull harness than what she did in her normal harness...



On the other hand, maybe there isn't anything "wrong" with how your harness works at all, maybe you simply need a trainer that could help you better with taking that next learning step to being good on the lead even with distractions.

 

[BentleyBelly]

A good lead is just as important as the collar/harness - a flexi lead is the worst (after a chain lead ) because the dog rewards itself - if I pull, I get even more lead. Oh and the only think you have to control said dog is a lump of plastic that can only be held in one hand!!

Don't get me started...I was fuming after all the work I had put in to stop her pulling. Unfortunately 2 weeks at the in laws is cheaper than kennels when we go away so it is something we put up with.

 

[gunnergundog]

If you are short of time or patience, then 'manage' the situation....use a halti or whatever works, drive the dog to a place where you can let it run free or whatever.

When you have time and can 'train' loose lead walking then use a flat collar and six foot lead. Decide on your strategy and be CONSISTANT...for months, and months and MONTHS!

That strategy may be standing and stopping still, teaching the dog to 'back back' into position, it may be about turning away from the dog and going in the opposite direction, it may be about turning into the dog and going in the opposite direction, it may be either of the above and circling or maybe something else entirely! It may be about teaching 'heel' off lead with the lead wrapped around the dogs neck and once you have this perfected then adding a gossamer thread to attach you to the dog and building on that!

 

[leprechaun-lady]

I used to have a doberman who was terrible on the lead and so strong. I used a halti in the end and it was brillian once he got used to it.

 

[CAYLA]

I have to say as much as I think haltis are the most user friendly method for the inexperienced, bullys are bloody bad at accepting them (I will admit that) of all the breed I work with they create the most ridiculous tantrum, I would still pull one through it to be fair but could see how an owner with little experience would struggle!

Im with EK and gunner, I would use either of their techniques if I was training, I would probably to be fair use a half check with a good training lead 9remeber tools are part of the issue) if you are user an non user friendly walking aid and its hindering your control it makes the job 10 x harder and I could guarantee I could stop the pulling in one session and revert to slip, sbt's are easy to train believe it or not (in the stopping pulling stakes) holding your lead short (folded once) in your hand) but relaxed with him on your left lead at waiste height and lead i right hand with a swift check to the side (not a yank back) as he should never be ahead to have to yanks (as they say) hence the check to the side, he can only get ahead if the lead if at full length (as you often see) with the dog steaming ahead.
OR the changing direction, so as suggested, he pulls and you swiftly change direction (he may get pulled sharply) to your side but he then has to pay attention and keep up and predict your next move (rather than full steam ahead) in a world of his ow dragging you behind! he could have to change direction any minute and with is as gunner suggests you get "a jump back reaction" and it literally has them walking into your leg like an good obedience collie I had Lady La La's Tyson doing it fab, and every time the lead when slack he jumped back immediately, its hard to explain but I think "mick" from dog borstal used to use the technique (maybe google) I am affraid I would do away with the harnesses, becareful with the thin ones than go in between front legs on his breed he may get rope burn although some are coated with sheep skin. The only harness I would use (not use) I would not use one but recommend! is the one that goes between both legs and it effectively forces him to stride slower ad restricts his stride (ideal im not sure) but some people like that, I will get a link if I can find it, one of our dog walkers has one for her lurcher, I dont' actually use it, but she loves it.

If you have someone that can bike with him before your sessions it would get some energy off him ready for you to work on him and get him used to walking along side something too.

 

[CAYLA]

I used to have a doberman who was terrible on the lead and so strong. I used a halti in the end and it was brillian once he got used to it.

Dobes are beasts and possibly one of the more stubborn breeds to work with re pulling)

 

[FinnishLapphund]

... I am affraid I would do away with the harnesses, becareful with the thin ones than go in between front legs on his breed he may get rope burn although some are coated with sheep skin. The only harness I would use (not use) I would not use one but recommend! is the one that goes between both legs and it effectively forces him to stride slower ad restricts his stride (ideal im not sure) but some people like that, I will get a link if I can find it, one of our dog walkers has one for her lurcher, I dont' actually use it, but she loves it.

It was something like this Mikki anti pull harness that I bought for 10 - 15 years ago and tried (with the halter fleece added) http://www.mikkipet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/anti-pull.png (more info : http://www.mikkipet.com/?mikki_training=mikki-anti-pull-harness)


But back then there was only one model, now there is more to chose from

Guardian Gear : http://www.petedge.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=58058

Yuppy Puppy : http://www.amazon.com/Yuppie-Puppy-...=1358431789&sr=8-3&keywords=Anti+Pull+Harness

ASPCA with mesh : http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASPCA-10085...-Harness-Stop-Pulling-Instantly-/130701111018


Those where the ones that I found by just a quick search, is anyone similar to the one you where thinking of Cayla?

 

[Echo24]

Haltis are generally used for dogs that are reluctant to walk forward whilst canny collars work in the pressure point behind a dog's head and stop them pulling. I would also suggest distracting the dog when it has the canny on, as they will get it off as it stops them pulling so they don't like it.

Thinks like check collars require expertise use and unless you know how to use one I'd stick with the canny collar. I've seen so many people with incorrectly fitted half checks that they may as well to just the dog on a flat collar.

 

[CAYLA]

Charcoal feather, you are probably thinking (full check) which needs to be used so the chain is running against the top of the loop and you need to use correctly indeed, a half check is just a collar with a tiny amount of chain in it so indeed you cant do any harm as it you did not connect to the actual loop it would end up like a normal flat collar as she is only checking to the side it could not do harm but indeed a bully but not feel anything at all in regard to a check in association with the pulling as it would just be like checking him back with the flat collar.

FL none of those are the one Im thinking of and I cant find it either, its thick nylon as opposed to that thin rope material and the dog has to step into it then it clips shut around the body but it restricts the dogs stride (this is how I see it) I will keep looking.

I would go with gunners suggestion of directional changes to get him working to stick with you, i can personally see why you would not want a halti or canni collar on him and I can imagine how he is reacting obs putting it on when he is say running lose and pre occupied or whilst emptying a kong or eating may help but will be a long process and I think you need control sooner rather than later.

 

[SarahBroomhead]

My year old labrador is the same, plus he's HUGE which I generally had to go anywhere he did until I bought an EasyWalk harness. I think someone has already mentioned them on here, but another vote for them, the lead fits on the front of the chest so they can't pull as all the pressure is on their breastbone. Helped me lots!

 

[RutlandH2O]

Training lead..six foot..thin check chain,a a few about turns

^^^Bingo! Works every time!!