hoof care - changing moisture levels

[Cocorules]

Had a really wet winter and horses hooves have been subjected to really wet conditions for months. As it has been drier this week their hooves have dried slightly. I know that as hooves dry they then risk cracking and the faster the change from wet to dry the worse it is. I am interested in how others prevent or reduce this.

Is it a case of continuing to expose to water and trying to gradually reduce it? This is what I feel should work but I have no idea of how much water or how to reduce it at the right rate.

Alternatively I could use Kevin Bacon's or similar but I am not sure how helpful that is.

Their hooves have really suffered in the wet and although they have a decent hoof supplement and hooves are picked out daily they are definitely in poor condition from exposure to wet conditions. All out 24/7 so getting movement but only one in proper work and her hooves are much better. All are the right weight. None are shod.

 

[LD&S]

I've been told it doesn't or shouldn't work but I found aqueous cream helped when it was very dry during the summer, I used to get the hooves nice and wet then put aqueous cream on them, I even tried doing two hooves and not the other two and even the next day there was a difference, the ones that hadn't had anything on them soaked up water like a dry tissue and the hoof appeared dry almost instantly but the ones that had had the cream stayed looking damp/wet for longer.

 

[missyclare]

The cracks that you get from moisture change are usually just the superficial cracks. With a wet hoof constantly wet, my concern would be the wet compromising the integrity of the hoof, thrush and separations that let infection in. Thrush would be my No. 1 enemy, because it will thrive in this weather.
I would speak to the farrier about the condition of things, while his practiced eye is there and have this discussion with him.
It depends on the condition that their feet are in now, how I'd tackle it.
So, I have some questions. Are the hooves holding onto the last trim well? Are they holding onto their shape? With wet weather, any false sole will slough out and leave wall standing alone, above sole, which is where chipping/cracking happens because the hoof is peripherally loading. The torque is on the wall all the way around, so its important to stay on top of the trim and these are the kind of cracks you don't want. Excess bars will hold false sole/dirt/moisture in and cause pain. Thrush will make the frog look puny/overhanging the groove and also holding dirt in. So timely trims to keep the hoof clear and spitting out dirt with every step. Anything that doesn't spit out with every step, remains and festers. It's also important for the heel height to keep the frog working, otherwise, its just festering as well. If the white line is not 1/8th inch thick, evenly all the way around and creamy yellow in color, is darker or stretching, then that's another point of entry for infection and the hoof must have an active maintained bevel to keep it tight. It's a well balanced trim with working bevel that will help the hoof hold its shape in such conditions.
As for thrush, a definite concern, because you can't build and develop a hoof if thrush is eating it away at the same time. A soak in white lightning will give you a strong start on drying up the hoof. It dries the hoof deeper than just the surface and I've seen it continue to improve the hoof days later. I wouldn't be soaking with any other method but this (and only needed occasionally) in such wet weather. The rest of the treatments would be dry-related to support the White Lightning. Daily, I would hold the hoof over a bucket of dish soap and water and scrub the hoof spanking clean, using a long handled kitchen brush, toothbrushes and Q-tips to clean down to the bottom of every crack and crevice. The front line of thrush is down there and if you don't get it, it will continue to eat deeper into the foot, while you think that everything is fine at the surface. Then just like that, clean and dry on shavings overnight. (even 5-6 hours will make a difference) Then medicate and turn out. Spraying straight vinegar on the hoof before bedtime will also help. I carry it at all times as a partner to my hoof pick. It's and adaptogen, which means "safe". Since the baddies thrive in a negative pH, vinegar leaves a more alkaline effect behind that discourages thrush and will still let that important air in, while on the shavings. Thrush hates air and the real cure is happening on those shavings overnight. As for meds in the morning, I'd use No Thrush, which is a powder and incredibly thirsty, holding moisture away from the hoof. Anything that is caustic will burn, leaving necrotic material behind that continues the jungle that feeds thrush, or worse yeast, so you've just traded one for the other. All you have to do it raise the pH and thrush just goes away without burning anything.
So, the star players are dry on shavings overnight and the White Lightning for a strong start, which will make the daily work easier. Staying on top of the trim to keep the hoof clear and working to spit out dirt with every step, not just once a day when you come around with the hoof pick. Remember, that it's "air" that is your true friend and its free. Hope this helps....

 

[supsup]

To be honest, I don't do anything these days. My horse is out 24/7, so I have no control over how wet his environment is anyway. I don't think I'd be worried about dry weather following wet weather. It takes a while for the ground to dry out, and it's a pretty gradual process, especially if the hooves are still packed with wet mud. I imagine regular swapping from wet to dry e.g. from wet field into very absorbent bedding would be more of a challenge because the drying is more rapid, and happens more often. On the other hand, drying the feet out clearly has advantages for keeping thrush etc. at bay.
My gelding has spent the entire winter in a wet field, and his horn quality remains completely fine. I've never had problems with cracking either in dry summer weather or following a wet winter. His frogs get soggy and usually shed by the end of winter, but whether I try to micromanage them with lots of cleaning/treating or no, it doesn't seem to make much of a difference.

 

[paddy555]

I don't do anything and all mine are barefoot. If it gets really dry in summer I stand them in the river for a few minutes but other than that nothing. They seem to cope pretty well on their own.

Not sure if you are in the UK but if you are you needn't worry about them drying out as it's forecast to rain next week!