Horse bolting when led

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Billy Pig

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After some advice please... I know this topic has been done to death, but I'm at a loose end and the usual advice isn't helping. Sorry in advance for the long post.

I have bought a cob who I've had about a month now, who has started bolting every time I turn him out and sometimes when he's bought in.

It is a difficult situation in that his trigger is deep mud on the track on the way to the field. He is absolutely golden to handle and has manners to burn in the usual everyday situations. Responds very well to all groundwork and is honestly an absolute gem.

He has an anxious streak where his default is to run, and I imagine this is what happened the first time he got away from me, but I now think this is a learnt behavior.

Every morning when I turn him out, he plants just before the mud, which is deep and they all sink in it. He clearly doesn't like it, I have to gently coax him through, he takes a couple of slow steps through it, but then with no warning goes from stand to canter and takes off up to the end of the track. He let's me walk up and catch him straight away, I don't tell him off, I just pick up his rope and carry on to his field.

He also bolts into the field once we get to the gateway, which annoys me, because it isn't muddy! So all in all, I lose him twice every morning.

I'm struggling to stop him, one, because he has generally planted and isnt moving to begin with, so I'm doing a bit of pressure release to get him through the first bit of the track. Two, he will suddenly just got from standing to canter with no warning, locks his neck and goes which pulls the rope through my hands every time. I'm struggling to have pressure on him, or turn his head towards me because he's not walking in the first place so I can't have hold of a stationary horse that I'm trying to keep walking.

Does anyone have any advice? He hasn't responded to pressure halter, rope round nose, head in feed bucket etc. I can't have him continue to do this as it means I'll be unable to leave him in anyone else's care should I need to.
 
Lead in a bridle, if he takes off keep hold of the rein nearest to you and let the outside rein slip, this will enable you to pull him around in a circle.
Also, if you can turn out with someone else (with a well behaved horse!) you might find he is happier to go through the mud following someone else. I'd give them a bit of space before following though, as you don't want him to 'bounce' their horse if he still takes off.
 
My Ardennes used to do this in heavy mud. He used to pull tree trunks so a human waggling the end of his lead rope meant nothing.

A lunge rope meant he could launch himself to the end of the mud without me face planting, but he would at least wait for me then. When he was being particularly obnoxious he was led in his bridle. I would put yours in a bridle for the time being with the lead rope threaded through the bit and a longer rope than you would normally use - plus gloves. When he goes to bog off be very, very firm in pulling back. If he's rude, be rude back.
 
I would use a bridle and a lunge line then he can’t get completely away , when you get to the field turn him so he is facing you and make him wait till you release him. I would have a headcollar under the bridle so you can get the bit out of his mouth before releasing him. Sounds like he is testing you so you need to be very firm to stop this behaviour before someone gets hurt .. good luck
 
SpeedyPony said:
Lead in a bridle, if he takes off keep hold of the rein nearest to you and let the outside rein slip, this will enable you to pull him around in a circle.
Also, if you can turn out with someone else (with a well behaved horse!) you might find he is happier to go through the mud following someone else. I'd give them a bit of space before following though, as you don't want him to 'bounce' their horse if he still takes off.
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Thank you, I will try the bridle thing. My only concern is him still getting away and treading on rope/reins and hurting himself. I guess I could loop a rope through the bit though...
And yes, have tried turning out with another horse in front, behind, and next to him and he still does it. In fact when one was in front he just bowled through!
 
splashgirl45 said:
I would use a bridle and a lunge line then he can’t get completely away , when you get to the field turn him so he is facing you and make him wait till you release him. I would have a headcollar under the bridle so you can get the bit out of his mouth before releasing him. Sounds like he is testing you so you need to be very firm to stop this behaviour before someone gets hurt .. good luck
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Thanks so much. Will give the bridle thing a whirl... will post an update!
 
SEL said:
My Ardennes used to do this in heavy mud. He used to pull tree trunks so a human waggling the end of his lead rope meant nothing.

A lunge rope meant he could launch himself to the end of the mud without me face planting, but he would at least wait for me then. When he was being particularly obnoxious he was led in his bridle. I would put yours in a bridle for the time being with the lead rope threaded through the bit and a longer rope than you would normally use - plus gloves. When he goes to bog off be very, very firm in pulling back. If he's rude, be rude back.
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Thank you. I do need to be more stern with him. Like I said, he's got an anxious streak and I've avoided a tough hand as didn't want to make him worse by pulling him about. But at this point i think he's learnt the behaviour, so will give it a go!
 
If the trigger is generally heavy mud, it could be well worth having him physically assessed, especially for soft tissue discomfort through his back - perhaps after trying to resist going through he is just trying to get the unpleasant sensations over with as quickly as possible by cantering through. Going through mud will really aggravate any areas of discomfort.
 
Highmileagecob said:
Any chance you can shake out a bale of straw and stamp it into the mud to try and provide some firm footing? Sounds like he doesn't like placing his feet where he can't see firm ground.
Or do you think it is sheer excitement at being turned out?
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Thank you, I don't think it's excitement to be honest. He's very very quiet to do everything with, literally until he gets to the mud! I'd love to put some mud control mats or straw down, but not sure the yard manager would be too keen on the mess!
 
PurpleSpots said:
If the trigger is generally heavy mud, it could be well worth having him physically assessed, especially for soft tissue discomfort through his back - perhaps after trying to resist going through he is just trying to get the unpleasant sensations over with as quickly as possible by cantering through. Going through mud will really aggravate any areas of discomfort.
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Thanks so much. Yes, I am in the process of having him MOTd as, like I said, he is new to me, so want to make sure he's tip top. He has not long passed a vetting though, so nothing glaringly obvious, but will have my physio out to him in the next couple of weeks!
 
I’m afraid I tried using a bridle, 3 times. And I ended up with 3 broken bridles when he stood on the rope after getting away each time. 🙄
 
How about using a proper Dually type headcollar as then when it's fitted properly, you know the pressure is going in the right place? And then if he runs off and stands on the rope, he'll immediately stop and realise it was all a terrible idea!
My cob is generally super easy but very occasionally will lock his neck and walk off just fast enough that it's difficult to get him to stop. I then use his dually headcollar for a day or so and he's back to remembering his manners
 
Have you tried one of those white rope halters? This sort, I mean. I had a horse who used to bomb off while I was leading him, I tried many things but this was the one that worked. Mine has a long rope as it was made for heavy horses, I knotted the very end of the rope so it was easier to hold on if he took off. I remember the first time he had it on, we had to cross a boggy field and he took off. I hung on to the rope, and when the halter tightened he just stopped dead. He was so surprised, as was I! Honestly never had trouble leading him again, as long as he had this on.
I think this plastic model is wearing his upside down though :)

Rope-Halter-Plain-White-600x600.jpg
 
How food orientated is he? You could try a bum bag full of treats and start feeding them before you get to the muddy bit. If it's learnt behaviour - rather than pain or fear of the mud - he might focus on those. It would build up a positive association with the track/mud.
 
Just joining to be pedantic. This isn't "bolting." The mud thing is learned behaviour, some horses panic when they can't feel their footing, and head for firm ground at speed. If he's got away once doing this, it will be his go to unless you can change the behaviour. The in the field thing is also learned behaviour, the technical name being "buggering off."
I would recommend a rope halter, long rope (15 ft) and lots of groundwork to overcome both problems. Steve Young has loads of free videos on You Tube covering this sort of stuff.
 
I have a serial puller away and the only thing that I’ve found works consistently is the Richard Maxwell training halter with a 12ft rope. However I have also spent a considerable time doing groundwork. Lots of backing up, disengaging hind-quarters, lateral movements, asking to move one foot at a time forward and backwards over a pole, standing on different surfaces. Standing and relaxing, waiting etc.

He is also rewarded with treats which I know some people hate but literally there is no way you’re going to win in a strength battle. So if he does what I ask he receives praise and a hi-fibre nugget. It keeps him focused on me. He has to do more to get the treats over time.

He hasn’t (touch wood) done it turning out or bringing in for absolutely ages although he will still do it in the school but much less often. When he decides he’s going there really isn’t anyway of holding on so you’ve got to train a different go to response.

Does he do the same on the way back in?
 
Catbird said:
How about using a proper Dually type headcollar as then when it's fitted properly, you know the pressure is going in the right place? And then if he runs off and stands on the rope, he'll immediately stop and realise it was all a terrible idea!
My cob is generally super easy but very occasionally will lock his neck and walk off just fast enough that it's difficult to get him to stop. I then use his dually headcollar for a day or so and he's back to remembering his manners
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Yes I did consider this. I have used a rope halter on him to no avail, honestly, it's like he's gone before I even have a chance to react. But will try all suggestions. Thank you!
 
suestowford said:
Have you tried one of those white rope halters? This sort, I mean. I had a horse who used to bomb off while I was leading him, I tried many things but this was the one that worked. Mine has a long rope as it was made for heavy horses, I knotted the very end of the rope so it was easier to hold on if he took off. I remember the first time he had it on, we had to cross a boggy field and he took off. I hung on to the rope, and when the halter tightened he just stopped dead. He was so surprised, as was I! Honestly never had trouble leading him again, as long as he had this on.
I think this plastic model is wearing his upside down though :)

View attachment 155826
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Thank you! Will look into it 😊
 
Landcruiser said:
Just joining to be pedantic. This isn't "bolting." The mud thing is learned behaviour, some horses panic when they can't feel their footing, and head for firm ground at speed. If he's got away once doing this, it will be his go to unless you can change the behaviour. The in the field thing is also learned behaviour, the technical name being "buggering off."
I would recommend a rope halter, long rope (15 ft) and lots of groundwork to overcome both problems. Steve Young has loads of free videos on You Tube covering this sort of stuff.
Click to expand...
Thank you! Will look him up. Appreciate this isn't true bolting, just easier to phrase it as such. Doing lots of groundwork currently, which he is spot on with atm, but will definitely have a look at a few methods! Have used a rope halter to no avail, though he responds well to it when not pi**ing off up the track!
 
Billy Pig said:
It's probably about 10-15 meters along the track. Think this is next port of call if I can't sort!
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I would be looking in this direction. Why put increasing pressure on him when he's telling you he finds the mud difficult or unpleasant? Yes for safety's sake he should listen to you but unless you can keep your own footing you're going to have a difficult time persuading him not to leave when he wants to - and the more they get away on the ground in a crisis the more this behaviour becomes engrained.
 
Sussexbythesea said:
I have a serial puller away and the only thing that I’ve found works consistently is the Richard Maxwell training halter with a 12ft rope. However I have also spent a considerable time doing groundwork. Lots of backing up, disengaging hind-quarters, lateral movements, asking to move one foot at a time forward and backwards over a pole, standing on different surfaces. Standing and relaxing, waiting etc.

He is also rewarded with treats which I know some people hate but literally there is no way you’re going to win in a strength battle. So if he does what I ask he receives praise and a hi-fibre nugget. It keeps him focused on me. He has to do more to get the treats over time.

He hasn’t (touch wood) done it turning out or bringing in for absolutely ages although he will still do it in the school but much less often. When he decides he’s going there really isn’t anyway of holding on so you’ve got to train a different go to response.

Does he do the same on the way back in?
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Thank you. I will look it up! He does it on the way in as well, but not as frequently (will lose him every morning going out, but maybe 3 or 4 x a week coming in!)
 
Do not underestimate how much underlying stress he might be carrying from the yard and person move - it can be tricky to see when they are new to you but I've known a couple do this when they are already quite trigger stacked despite being absolute gentlemen most of the time. One was a loan from another Hhoer, full history known, in his 20s and an absolute darling but would have his 'need to get out of here now' moments. It might well end up being something else even if you did resolve the mud issues - as you say it also happens in the field.

For now I'd mostly make sure your safe, bridle, lunge line and doing the work you are doing.

(the one yard move I did with my own I did promise the yard owner he wasn't normally like this, thankfully only took about 6 weeks which was shorter than when I first got him but also then didn't realise how stressed he was until he wasn't)
 
Burnttoast said:
I would be looking in this direction. Why put increasing pressure on him when he's telling you he finds the mud difficult or unpleasant? Yes for safety's sake he should listen to you but unless you can keep your own footing you're going to have a difficult time persuading him not to leave when he wants to - and the more they get away on the ground in a crisis the more this behaviour becomes engrained.
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Thank you and good point! I will speak to yard manager if need be, just conscious that it might be a no, and also that YM might ask me to try other methods first before they have to fork out on another expense!
 
Billy Pig said:
Thank you, I will try the bridle thing. My only concern is him still getting away and treading on rope/reins and hurting himself. I guess I could loop a rope through the bit though...
And yes, have tried turning out with another horse in front, behind, and next to him and he still does it. In fact when one was in front he just bowled through!
Click to expand...
The advantage of having two reins on a bridle is that you can turn their head before they can lock their neck, which is difficult with a head collar/leadrope attached to both sides of the bit.
I had one that would panic and tank off, she also just ripped the rope out of my hands and so I started leading in the bridle with the reins left over her neck- that way if she did get free they wouldn't be trailing on the ground. It also meant that when she started I could just let go of the outside rein, keep hold of the inside one tight and pull her head round before she had a chance to take off. After a few months leading always in the bridle, she was civilised enough to lead in a head collar!
 
ester said:
Do not underestimate how much underlying stress he might be carrying from the yard and person move - it can be tricky to see when they are new to you but I've known a couple do this when they are already quite trigger stacked despite being absolute gentlemen most of the time. One was a loan from another Hhoer, full history known, in his 20s and an absolute darling but would have his 'need to get out of here now' moments. It might well end up being something else even if you did resolve the mud issues - as you say it also happens in the field.

For now I'd mostly make sure your safe, bridle, lunge line and doing the work you are doing.

(the one yard move I did with my own I did promise the yard owner he wasn't normally like this, thankfully only took about 6 weeks which was shorter than when I first got him but also then didn't realise how stressed he was until he wasn't)
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Thank you. Yes, he is the anxious sort and although outwardly a gentleman, appreciate he may have some inner stress. He came from Ireland before Christmas and was then with a dealer, who had an inconsistent routine with him having turned him out over Christmas. So he has had some upheaval in the last few months. He seems to have settled beautifully in the month he's been with me and is showing his character a lot more. I appreciate he needs more time, but would also like to nip this habit in the bud before it becomes unmanageable!
 
SpeedyPony said:
The advantage of having two reins on a bridle is that you can turn their head before they can lock their neck, which is difficult with a head collar/leadrope attached to both sides of the bit.
I had one that would panic and tank off, she also just ripped the rope out of my hands and so I started leading in the bridle with the reins left over her neck- that way if she did get free they wouldn't be trailing on the ground. It also meant that when she started I could just let go of the outside rein, keep hold of the inside one tight and pull her head round before she had a chance to take off. After a few months leading always in the bridle, she was civilised enough to lead in a head collar!
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This is a good shout, thank you 😊
 
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