horse loading problem

[ellena0251]

Can anyone help with my problem, I have a pony who will load onto the lorry but as soon as anyone stands behind or attemps to tie him or shut the partition he freaks out. We have spent ages with him getting him to load and stand in there quite happily, we have fed him on there, groomed him etc and he is quite relaxed but as soon as anyone moves, hes off like a shot nothing can hold him. He ties up happily anywhere else. Other people on our yard are now getting on our nerves as they are saying we are being to soft and should just batter him back on everytime he runs off but we do not want to resort to this, he does walk back on after he has ran off. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can overcome his fear of being trapped inside the lorry.

 

[sychnant]

I had one just like this. I got Lyn Dixon to come out, she's in North Wales, so might be too far for you? But she is AMAZING, and sorted out my boy's problems in one session with no force, just understanding.

If she is too far away for you then I would suggest looking on the Intelligent Horsemanship website to find an RA near you. They will work with you and your horse to find out what the problem is, and to find a way of solving it.

 

[SallyBatty]

I will be very interested in any answers to this question as I have the same problem. I can get my horse to go inside a lorry but any attempt at trying to close the partitition and she totally freaks out. I have been advised by someone who works with problem loaders that he wouldn't be able to help in my case and that all I could do would be to keep on trying. He did advise not to try using any of the 3.5 ton side loading lorries though as it would be too dangerous as there is not enough space in them when you are dealing with a panicking horse.

 

[sychnant]

You need to work out WHY the horse is panicking, and deal with that first. With my boy, it was the ramp going up which freaked him out. Lyn did lots of work in the yard first with things above him, and (for example) a rubber mat being raised and lowered outside his stable, standing in a corner whilst the mat was held at right angles to him and slowly moved towards him...

At the end of the session he was walking on then standing quiet and unconcerned as the ramp was raised. It truly was fabulous

 

[ellena0251]

thanks I think i will get someone out, where can you find a list of of trainers? or does anyone know of one in the south wales area.

 

[sychnant]

http://www.intelligenthorsemanship.co.uk/specialist-horse-training.html

Good luck

 

[ellena0251]

just my luck the nearest one is over 2 hours away from me

 

[Tiffany]

How much space does he have in the lorry and do you stand him in with a haynet?

 

[sychnant]

John Jones covers South wales, although he is in Hereford, is it that far?

 

[ellena0251]

he has lots of space its a 7.5 ton with paritions open and we have tried haynet, food buckets, treats etc, he will stand and eat happily until someone moves even slightly towards to partition or ramp

 

[ellena0251]

he is a bit closer but still 1hr 40 away, there must be someone out there who is closer

 

[Dry Rot]

I had a bought-in pony that would do this in an Ifor Williams 505. As soon as someone tried to raise the ramp, she'd reverse out at double speed! It is very frustrating.

Yes, I do believe it is something to do with the pony feeling trapped. They are reassured if they know they can back out if they want to, so simply slamming the door/ramp once they are in is not the answer. That will just confirm their fear and make it worse.

I read somewhere that the problem could be cured with one of those old fashioned roller blinds. One was rigged up above the trailer door, then gently lowered when the horse was inside. If the horse decided it wanted out, it backed out quickly just pushing the blind up without a problem. I suspect the blind is just rolled up again and the horse immediately re-loaded. Then the blind is gently lowered as before. Assuming the horse is hungry and there is a hay net inside, it should soon get fed up with backing out as that achieves nothing except delaying meal time!

Some fears are self supporting. A hand shy horse will move away from the person trying to catch it and that fear will diminish with distance, so it repeats the behaviour every time. Somehow the cycle has to be broken. In the above case, the horse's fear of being trapped is confirmed every time the door is shut so it just gets worse. If it can easily escape, the reason for the "confirmed fear" is removed. It feels reassured that if it wants to, it can escape any time it chooses.

But we still need to simulate the ramp/door shutting without actually confining the horse. The roller blind does that perfectly as it looks like a door closing but actually offers no resistance and is easily brushed aside.

As I've said, I've not tried this method but it does sound plausible. What do you think?

 

[grey dawn]

few ideas one leave extra headcollar rope already attached in box, clip on as you get head near ring,don't hesitate walk in and clip before horse realises, this worked with my ilph pony who used to do half rears repeatedly until box was moving,
load another horse first some just don't like to be first/only horse.
make really big compartment by taking out one partition to give double the room get him used to that then reduce size,
attach rope to partion so you can pull it in slowly without having to move towards it,
good luck

 

[Alyth]

Horses are very claustrophobic.....you are halfway there with him agreeing to go into the float.....now you need to move around. Start with slow little movements and gradually increase them until you can jump up and down on the ramp while rattling the bum bar/chain withouth him rushing off. Also make sure you get him to move his hooves one at a time so he knows he can move himself. If he rushes off, don't get upset simply ask him to go on again and start moving a bit more slowly/gently. One other tip, use a long (at least 12', preferably longer, perhaps 20') lead rope. Don't have it looped up, keep the loose end dragging behind you. And don't tighten your fingers when he rushes off, let the rope slide smoothly through your loose hand!!!! It's also good to have a stash of chopped up carrots that you can dish out one by one as a reward when he has stayed put while you did some movement!! Can you send him into the float in front of you - while you stay standing on the edge of the ramp? One other thing, can you ask him to go half in and then back a quarter out? Then all the way in and half out? One hoof at a time? Good luck.

 

[FfionWinnie]

I would work with him away from the horse box. Get him used to things like the feeling of a ramp being closed, in his stable where he cannot charge off. Once he is completely bomb proof with all sorts like that (tarpaulin raised from ground beside him for instance) move onto the horse box.

I bet he used to be okish and who ever has had him before has had to get faster and faster to shut him in until he anticipates any movement with a race to shut him in/ get out. I would have a small bucket of feed, and then another one that you have to move slightly to reach to give him. Make it obvious you are going for the other bucket and then gradually increase the distance you have to go for it. He will then see your movement as a good thing for more food. I'd then do much more work outside with the tarp then go back to the box again and work on closing the partition. I wouldn't rush to close it. See how he reacts.

 

[FfionWinnie]

Also wear a hat and gloves at all times. I would use a longer rope, not nec a lunge line but longer than a lead rope too and if you got into Richard Maxwell's techniques that would help him too.

 

[Nosey]

Sounds v like my mare. She gets separation anxiety...loads fine but will not stay in on her own. I persevered like you for.mths feeding her slowly stepping away for increasing no. Of seconds but she was still v stressed & little improvement. She always traveled well with company tho. Spoke to an ih practitioner & asked monty Roberts same question at a demo. Was told the leaving them was the hardest part. of loading process to influence & pot v dangerous which it def was with my mare...she bashed through a Window once. Advice was to just travel her with company which I do always now.

 

[MrsMozart]

No idea as to your location OP, but if you're anywhere near the Midlands, try Mickey Gavin. PM me for his number if you want it.

 

[Brightbay]

Speak to Jenni Nellist www.jenninellist.co.uk

http://www.jenninellist.co.uk/index.php/blog/55-loading-workshop

 

[Dry Rot]

Are there no equine behaviourists on here who can offer an opinion? I love trying to solve these problems, they are what makes keeping horses interesting (...though sometimes I think I could do with a duller life!).

 

[millimoo]

This was posted on the BD Forum this morning http://youtu.be/_PxFs3IKRSg LMFAO
Although realise it doesn't assist OP

 

[Willowview]

Hiya my mare used to do a similar thing and I had a fantastic woman called Anne Newby come and help me but think she would be too far for you. Here are some things that may help you:

1. Be aware of what you are doing you are now most likely anticipating the problem so when partitions etc begin to close yawn or sing to get rid of any tension, keep your eyes moving slowly around i.e. don't fixate them on the horse or partition and if your horse panics etc... don't move your feet just allow the long line to slide through hand whilst staying completely chilled (difficult I know!) Also if your horse looks like he might trip or bang his head etc don't stand there thinking 'oh no he's going to hurt himself then be even more scared etc just shrug your shoulders whilst thinking how embarrassing for you (sounds crazy but does help) If you don't already practise loading good horses to check you are not altering your behaviour.

2. You need to make your pony 'crave' the box so he actually wants to go in instead of just being happy to this can't really done through food etc but through lungeing him outside the box then letting him rest on the box. Horses get rid of adrenaline by moving their feet so each time he flies off let him lunge until he seems calm again then repeat.

Hope this helps!

 

[canteron]

You need to work out WHY the horse is panicking, and deal with that first. With my boy, it was the ramp going up which freaked him out. Lyn did lots of work in the yard first with things above him, and (for example) a rubber mat being raised and lowered outside his stable, standing in a corner whilst the mat was held at right angles to him and slowly moved towards him...

At the end of the session he was walking on then standing quiet and unconcerned as the ramp was raised. It truly was fabulous

Yes, you need to work out the exactly what it is that makes her worry and work from there.

For example it was pointed out with my horse that she panicked if she couldn't see what was happening behind her in the trailer, so by having her on an angle so she could see that really helped.

Also, she had leant that running backwards and rearing was quite effective. Behavourist said to treat it like napping, keep the pressure on all the time she was running back and rearing or moving backwards, but as soon as she took even the slightest hint towards moving forward, release the pressure and reward (apple!). It was a bit scary, but took the horse about 5 minutes to work out that this evasion no longer worked!!!

So really analyse the point she starts to panic, is it the partition, the ramp, the second you step away or when? If you give her more space does that help? Until you spot exactly what is worrying her then it is difficult to solve..

 

[Dry Rot]

Hiya my mare used to do a similar thing and I had a fantastic woman called Anne Newby come and help me but think she would be too far for you. Here are some things that may help you:

1. Be aware of what you are doing you are now most likely anticipating the problem so when partitions etc begin to close yawn or sing to get rid of any tension, keep your eyes moving slowly around i.e. don't fixate them on the horse or partition and if your horse panics etc... don't move your feet just allow the long line to slide through hand whilst staying completely chilled (difficult I know!) Also if your horse looks like he might trip or bang his head etc don't stand there thinking 'oh no he's going to hurt himself then be even more scared etc just shrug your shoulders whilst thinking how embarrassing for you (sounds crazy but does help) If you don't already practise loading good horses to check you are not altering your behaviour.

2. You need to make your pony 'crave' the box so he actually wants to go in instead of just being happy to this can't really done through food etc but through lungeing him outside the box then letting him rest on the box. Horses get rid of adrenaline by moving their feet so each time he flies off let him lunge until he seems calm again then repeat.

Hope this helps!

No. 2 is one of the best posts I've seen on this subject.

All our youngsters are occasionally fed in the trailer and they are also free lunged in the round pen when older with the pressure taken off immediately they go near or in the trailer. The trailer is never associated with anything bad, only good.

Someone helping me the other day remarked she'd never been at a yard where ponies actually want to load! If a pony is led past the trailer, they'll head for it even though the ramp is up!

If the OP can get access to a round pen and park the lorry so the horse can load from the pen, free lunging is the way to go. Of course, the horse will have to be off loaded to repeat the exercise each time, but the more repetition, the more permanent will be the cure. It it want to back out, let it -- and give it more work!

Better to make sure a fault never develops than have to deal with a problem later. I am sure all the failed attempts at loading just add to the horse's distrust. It associates the trailer/lorry with nothing but unpleasantness as both horse and handler become more tense and anxious with each successive failure.

(And, yes, the trailer in the photo is securely supported at all four corners!)

 

[SavvyKim]

I had one just like this. I got Lyn Dixon to come out, she's in North Wales, so might be too far for you? But she is AMAZING, and sorted out my boy's problems in one session with no force, just understanding.

If she is too far away for you then I would suggest looking on the Intelligent Horsemanship website to find an RA near you. They will work with you and your horse to find out what the problem is, and to find a way of solving it.

Why don't you check out Mickey Gavin - he is brilliant!

 

[jeeve]

I had one just like this. I got Lyn Dixon to come out, she's in North Wales, so might be too far for you? But she is AMAZING, and sorted out my boy's problems in one session with no force, just understanding.

If she is too far away for you then I would suggest looking on the Intelligent Horsemanship website to find an RA near you. They will work with you and your horse to find out what the problem is, and to find a way of solving it.

This - if he is going on float ok it will not take to long to fix, whereas if you beat him/ frighten him, you will lose his happiness to load.

 

[Alyth]

I can't believe this thread!! BABY steps!! So he loads ok and stands there as long as everyone is quiet??!! So then you find helpers to start walking around at a distance,,,,gradually coming closer. When he starts to get worried they stay at that distance until he relaxes THEN THEY MOVE FURTHER AWAY....rewarding the relaxing behaviour!!! This has to be repeated ad infinitum....you will find the walking around gets closer and closer to the horse in the trailer/float!! When they are walking around at the back of the float they start walking over the ramp....and then start moving the bars/chains...and jumping up and down on the ramp, then lifing the ramp 6", 12" half way up....let it bounce and make a noise!!.....you get the picture? Advance and retreat. Take the time it takes. If you have a trailer available it doesn't matter if it takes a month with you spending 10 minutes each day. You have to be in the horses time frame, not the humans!!