How do you start a horse?

[YellowCaterpillar]

Just curious as to how you all start your horses? I learned at a yard where I kept my first pony, they had a lot of youngsters come and go. Over the years I've noticed that different people have different techniques, I.e some people don't lunge etc.
So basically, what's your general process?

Mine is; lots of groundwork and handling, introducing tack, leave tacked up in the stable for about an hour with tack and side reins on, lots of long reining, then onto lunging in a roller and cavesson with bridle underneath, then with tack, saddle desensitisation, backing, riding on the lunge, then into the arena on their own. I always start the riding with just transitions from walk to trot on a circle and then work up to the whole arena. I usually do this in about 6 to 12 weeks.

 

[Exploding Chestnuts]

Sounds fine, I just worked away at times when it suits me and horse is never pressured, I also do grooming above the eyeline,and leaning over, also walking around to meet things, tying up in yard on his own, general pressure release, I find a harness is great as they get used to straps round the bum and things dangling loose, also walking over poles in hand, going to shows, I backed mostly on my own, or if I had a good rider who would sit quietly, this was the ideal.
As mostly on my own, I fed a calmer for a few months. Kept lessons very short, as they are mentally immature, most of the time was spent tacking up, and removing tack, things have to be done slowly. Keep a headcollar on under bridle.
I would make sure they developed muscles in the right places, and a soft mouth.
Also ensure that they were ridden by a few people and a man if available.

 

[baymareb]

Turn the key, of course!

Sorry, it's been a long day and that's how my sleep-deprived mind read it.

 

[Fides]

Just out if interest, why do you leave side reins on in the stable?

 

[be positive]

They are all different, some require more time at certain stages than others, assuming they arrive with basic handling in place, although I have had several come pretty much untouched in the past, I get the lunging started to establish voice commands, then introduce tack, a roller before a saddle, I never leave them tacked up unsupervised so it comes off before they go into the stable.
Once they are lunging in full tack I usually start using two reins then gradually move onto long reining, get them out of the school, up the lanes or round fields. While the lunging is being established I am playing with the next stages, standing above their eye line, doing some desensitising, moving the stirrups against them, jumping up and down beside them etc., and generally getting to know the individual so I can read when they are ready to move on to backing if they require longer they get given time to take it all in, some are best done daily, some less and a few benefit from being worked twice a day.
Leg up to lean over, start to move with rider leaning over, get on when it feels right, walk and halt on a rope, let off if all is going well, I rarely lunge with a rider on but will have a person stood in the middle to give support to the aids and encourage the horse to go forward if required, it usually takes about 3 weeks to get to the sitting on stage, the hard work really starts then as you ride them away.

 

[YellowCaterpillar]

Just out if interest, why do you leave side reins on in the stable?

That was what I was told to do in said yard I was at. There were a couple of cases of baby's biting and pulling at the saddle or rolling with tack on etc so the side reins were to prevent this. I always put them on fairly loose and check on the horse every 5 or 10 mins to make sure they're ok. And I always supervise the first couple of times they're tacked up just to be sure they won't freak and hurt themselves.

 

[Exploding Chestnuts]

That was what I was told to do in said yard I was at. There were a couple of cases of baby's biting and pulling at the saddle or rolling with tack on etc so the side reins were to prevent this. I always put them on fairly loose and check on the horse every 5 or 10 mins to make sure they're ok. And I always supervise the first couple of times they're tacked up just to be sure they won't freak and hurt themselves.

I would not do that, youngsters are likely to find trouble if left to themselves, there is no reason to think they will freak out with a saddle on. Use of a roller and long reining, will get them used to things.
If they do get in to trouble, you may be on standby, but better never to get to that situation.

 

[windand rain]

Mine do a lot of ground work are taught basically that the world is a safe place so lots of flappy things, washing lines, tarps to walk over, narrow gaps etc from 3and a half to 4. At four they are so used to everything around them they are pretty bombproof I then bit them in the field with a lunge line on a headcollar with loads of grass to munch on the only time they are allowed to eat with a bit in. I then put a saddle on and long rein round the tracks and finally the road I don't usually lunge at all By 4 and half they are accepting of everything you do anyway so they are sat on and ridden away I will attach a line for the initial walk off but if they are happy and confident which they usually are they are then walked trotted and cantered from sitting on to hacking out and schooling in all paces takes about two hours of short sessions then they are treated like any other horse popping a pole and jumping while out hacking. I have found if you pussyfoot around and expect trouble you usually get it . I would never leave a horse unattended even for a second with a bit in and a bridle on and have never ever used side reins or gadgets to start one it is all done with schooling and training.
Mine are shown in hand as babies and as a result will walk and trot pretty much on command anyway and are used to the sights and sounds of the wider world

 

[Mylife]

Very interesting thread thank you all

 

[Kezzabell2]

I sent mine away but before he went (just before his 4th bday) I had been walking him out in hand around the village, getting him used to all sorts, cars, tractors, bikes, dogs etc! I ensured that he understood, walk on, trot, stand. I attempted to long rein and lunge at 3.5 but as I didn't have the facilities or help it was impossible, he just kept turning in to look at me!

within his first day of learning at the breakers, he was lunging, in 4 days he was sat on! 5th day sat on and walked around on the lunge! he look it all in his stride, which shocked me, he had been naughty in hand at times!

 

[be positive]

I sent mine away but before he went (just before his 4th bday) I had been walking him out in hand around the village, getting him used to all sorts, cars, tractors, bikes, dogs etc! I ensured that he understood, walk on, trot, stand. I attempted to long rein and lunge at 3.5 but as I didn't have the facilities or help it was impossible, he just kept turning in to look at me!

within his first day of learning at the breakers, he was lunging, in 4 days he was sat on! 5th day sat on and walked around on the lunge! he look it all in his stride, which shocked me, he had been naughty in hand at times!

By leaving the lunging to the pro he had no bad habits established, if generally easy going sitting on is the easy part especially if no one has tried and failed previously, what they do at home often gets forgotten when they move, the breakers have no expectations of naughty behaviour and by occupying their brains with all the new information they usually do behave extremely well.

 

[Mylife]

By leaving the lunging to the pro he had no bad habits established, if generally easy going sitting on is the easy part especially if no one has tried and failed previously, what they do at home often gets forgotten when they move, the breakers have no expectations of naughty behaviour and by occupying their brains with all the new information they usually do behave extremely well.

Is it better to leave the lunging to the breakers then?

 

[YellowCaterpillar]

I find a harness is great as they get used to straps round the bum and things dangling loose, also walking over poles in hand

I would make sure they developed muscles in the right places, and a soft mouth.

That's a great idea. I'm in the early stages of backing my new mare so I might botrow a harness off a friend of mine. She loves the arena! I walk her around when we come back from our road walks (in hand), she loves to explore all the weird and wonderful colours and shapes

Not to sound stupid but how do you do that? Are there certain exercises you do with them or just oncentre the general riding starts?

 

[YellowCaterpillar]

I would not do that, youngsters are likely to find trouble if left to themselves, there is no reason to think they will freak out with a saddle on. Use of a roller and long reining, will get them used to things.
If they do get in to trouble, you may be on standby, but better never to get to that situation.

Tbh I never really thought of it like that. I always thought they needed some time to adjust to being tacked before you introduce long reining? I've never had a problem with horses freaking out when tacked up for yr he first time, I always just use precaution in case...

 

[YellowCaterpillar]

get the lunging started to establish voice commands, then introduce tack, a roller before a saddle,
Once they are lunging in full tack I usually start using two reins then gradually move onto long reining, get them out of the school, up the lanes or round fields

I always long rein before lunging. Is one more beneficial than the other (to start off) or does it come down to personal preference? (I'm not saying that you should long rein first, I just want to know if I'm doing it wrong or..?)

 

[YellowCaterpillar]

Mine do a lot of ground work are taught basically that the world is a safe place so lots of flappy things, washing lines, tarps to walk over, narrow gaps etc from 3and a half to 4.

I have found if you pussyfoot around and expect trouble you usually get it . I

Some really great advice in here. Will be putting it all into practice!

 

[be positive]

Is it better to leave the lunging to the breakers then?

If you are inexperienced and plan on sending the horse away then yes it probably is best, that way there is nothing to undo when they go, most I have started came with no lunging or long reining done just very basic handling, they do not take long to pick up what they require before backing, it does not have to be perfect just confidently moving through the paces to voice commands, carrying the tack and going forward, no hours of drilling to get them going in an outline that can come later if the owner wants to put the polish on but it can be over done with young horses lunging is not great for joints and can be very boring if too long is spent going round in endless circles.

Most are able to lunge fairly well in all paces, possibly not established in canter due to balance and fitness, within a few days.

 

[be positive]

I always long rein before lunging. Is one more beneficial than the other (to start off) or does it come down to personal preference? (I'm not saying that you should long rein first, I just want to know if I'm doing it wrong or..?)

I think long reining first is tricky as they are out in front of you so you may require a helper, not all will be confident to have ropes round their backsides and if they have never had a roller on then you have to start with that before you can safely long rein so it is easier to start on the lunge move onto using 2 reins, driving on a circle and gradually coming off as they gain confidence, then you can get out and about.
I have started most for clients and there is always a time frame to work to, they have not all been well handled, I don't like to rush them but you do need to be realistic, it is not fair to spend weeks trying one way when by changing things can make life easier for all involved, I did have one come that would not lunge, he long reined perfectly well and was backed easily having never successfully completed more than a circle on the lunge, he was probably the easiest I ever started apart from refusing to trot round me.

 

[Nudibranch]

Generally in a fairly logical process I guess, but in the case of mine I tend to do it very gradually over a couple of years! So starting at about 30 months and then working slowly to backing at four. I don't do things every day and sometimes leave it a week or two between sessions.

Everything just moves on as a gradual step, so groundwork in a halter. Then bit and continue halter work. Then groundwork leading from the bit. Then introduce roller. Then long rein with someone at their head, then long rein independently. Then long rein in a saddle. Now and again lean over from the mounting block, get used to things above and on their back, etc. I only ever lunge briefly - 5 minutes maximum for a few days - to establish voice commands, which helps with long reining. Almost everything is done in the field or on quiet hacks. I've never bitted or saddled one by shutting in the stable, I think it gives them too much time to concentrate on it and worry. If you just introduce the new item at the start of a normal session they just seem to accept it.

This time however I think I will send away to do the actual backing. The gelding is long reining really well and really comfortable with everything new but he is almost 17hh at three years. And at the wrong side of 30 and hoping to try for a baby in the near future I'm not risking my bones this time!

 

[_GG_]

I believe that if you are inexperienced, you are better to leave all of the work to the work to the pros as it's very easy for things to go a little bit wrong, but the wrong reaction from the trainer to turn that into a big problem which may rear its ugly head in years to come (pardon the pun).

For me, it is about the horse in front of me. It totally depends on their aptitude for learning, attitude towards it and both physical and mental maturity.

To give two completely different examples, both well handled in head collars, to lead, tie and be groomed etc. :-

Horse A - 4yr old, mild mannered, easy to do, physically naturally strong and balanced and with a willing attiude but on the lazy side:-

Introduce to lunge cavesson and the feeling of lunge lines moving over, around and behind the body. Begin long reining with an aid leading and me on the opposite side, with both lines (offside line from me being over the horse in front of the wither. Just working on basic voice commands. Never punishing any confusion, just rewarding the good. I do this for a few days, getting further towards the back of the horse until I am behind and long reining and then I introduce the bit. Over the next week, get the horse used to long reining off the bit and remove the aid. Alongside this, on the yard I will have been introducing the saddle and the concept of weight in the saddle. Getting the horse used to standing at the mounting block and being leaned over and weight applied in the stirrup.
Generally, week 3 is actually backing, me with the horse and a jockey getting on and it is all voice command based and with the emphasis on allowing forward movement. I do back in a safe environment, but then get out into a more open space, away from the arena but maintaining my own contact with the horse. Over 5 days, I expect to quickly come off lead rein and be able to get walk, trot and canter without issue...then it's out hacking with a nanny horse for 3-4 weeks, only going into an arena again in week 5 or 6 to establish the transitions.

Horse B - Just turned 3, bolshy attitude, easily bored, bit of a handful but not yet physically or mentally mature :-

Start the horse leading off another horse in the area with a handler on the other side. Move this outside to a large field or safe track and continue for a week, at the same time as introducing a saddle and bridle. Week two would be in the school, again with the nanny horse present and getting the horse used to standing at mounting block, weight in stirrups and actual backing. When lightweight jocky on board, take it around arena ride and lead so very low stress/impact and then out to the field/safe track for a couple of weeks whilst using the nanny horse and introducing contact to teach basic commands and aids. I expect week 3/4 to be removing the lead rope and the horse then learning to go ahead for moments, wait behind for moments, generally learn manners and good behaviour. I won't even introduce trot work at all at this stage. Just do all of this in walk as the horse is physically immature. Keep this going for 5-6 weeks, then turn away. With a horse like this that is also going to be a big horse, I will keep up a level of handling in the "down" time, but bring back into hacking with a nanny for 1-2 weeks every couple of months. Not over stressing them and their young frame, or pushing them too hard, but not allowing them to turn into a thug/difficult/challenging prospect to back in a years time. By doing it this way with these type horses, it prevents there ever being an "issue" backing them. By the time they are ready to be properly started, they are just ok with it, haven't had their will broken, don't cause any trouble and are mentally happy as they haven't been left to just get bored in a field.

All horses are different. What works for one may very well ruin another or indeed, cause someone to get hurt.

I've actually used the second example on a MASSIVE Irish Draft when he was just 2yrs 4 months because he was enormous, bolshy, in no way strong enough to cope with lunging or road work, but his attitude changed and he flourished as soon as he started to be waled around the fields with a 7st jockey on him. He settled, he had a job and he'd only do it for a couple of weeks at a time. I knew when he was ready for it again as he would start pacing...so two weeks of it again and he was chilled out again.

There are no hard and fast rules but I am very much against tying a horses head down, overdoing anything in an arena/on any soft surface, too many tight circles, force etc.

Sometimes, just expecting a horse to do as you want is enough to make that happen. That's why it works for the pros but so many amateurs get into trouble.