How much should I pay for a one to one session?

Bossdog

Bossdog

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No idea how much one to one sessions are, I'm really struggling with Barney on the lead around other dogs and wanted some help so we can nip it in the bud now and move on. Have been quoted £75 for a 2.5hr session, although trainer says that one session is enough, does this sound reasonable, it's all new to me!
 
Bossdog, chill out, you've had him no time at all :), these things can take weeks and even months to sort.
To be honest I would just take him to a normal training class rather than shelling out for 1-2-1, it should not be a huge issue to crack once a fresh pair of eyes has been cast on the subject.
That way you still get feedback, homework, something to work towards, and pay less.


It does sound like a lot. That's pretty much half a year's club fees for our club, which is quite expensive, and I get to go every Sunday :p
 
Fairly rural, plus DH has gone to Afghanistan so I am on my own with the kids evenings and weekends which makes training classes difficult to get to.... she does come to the house for that money, seems like a lot but then worth it if it makes walking easier/more pleasurable!
 
Depends who the trainer is! What are their qualifications and experience? References from other people who had similar problems to yours?

All I would say is that 2,5 hours is a LOT for a dog to concentrate if it's a one to one.....espec for a young dog. (Sorry, don't know your dogs history.)
 
I usually find I can sort this problem - or at least make a good start - in about 15 minutes.
I can't think why any 1:1 session should be 2 1/2 hours.


Why not invest in a martingale collar & an Ian Dunbar DVD?
 
Sorry CC, cross posted! I'm trying really hard to keep relaxed about it but he gets so wound up and over reacts, I'm constantly apologising for his shocking behaviour and struggling to find something that he is distracted by (he likes food but doesn't love it, not bothered by any of the toys I got). It's so stupid but having an obnoxious small dog after such a well behaved GSD is mildly embarrassing and it's getting more and more difficult to get his attention. Looking forward to the schools going back next week so I can concentrate on him without the kids around :) Will put off the 1-2-1 for now, suspected that it was a little over-priced!!
 
Bossdog said:
Sorry CC, cross posted! I'm trying really hard to keep relaxed about it but he gets so wound up and over reacts, I'm constantly apologising for his shocking behaviour and struggling to find something that he is distracted by (he likes food but doesn't love it,
he will love it if you don't give him his dinner one night and then have a pocket full of hot roast chicken!not bothered by any of the toys I got). It's so stupid but having an obnoxious small dog after such a well behaved GSD is mildly embarrassing Sorry, but that made me :D and it's getting more and more difficult to get his attention. Looking forward to the schools going back next week so I can concentrate on him without the kids around :) Will put off the 1-2-1 for now, suspected that it was a little over-priced!!
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and breathe and chill!! :) Try this http://www.learningaboutdogs.com/acatalog/walktogdvd.html
 
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Agree, he will be interested in food if he is hungry.
If you are going to hand feed him, you have to stick to it, the biggest mistake people make is that they think it is 'cruel' and want to supplement the dog - there is no need to feed him at either end, he ONLY gets food if he is carrying out the behaviour you want him to.
It's not cruel or bad for them, it is using the amount of food they would normally be getting twice or once a day, throughout the day, and using it to shape their behaviour.
 
Haven't heard of Ian Dunbar but will look it up now, have ordered a half check so hope that will give me a bit more correction.... little git, how come small dogs can cause so much trouble?!!

On the upside, check out this recall......
 
He sounds like a smaller version of Dex. I had to stop taking Dex to classes as it wound both of us up no end- too many dogs- I intend to take him back come April though- when they go back outside- Dex small hall filled with dogs = nightmare.

I paid £40 for someone to come to my home and help us- she was there 3 ish hours. Mainly they need to take detailed history and see what the dog is like in the home, which is why it is so long. The chappie I really want to come help us would cost approx £300 for 3 hours (because he lives ages away!)- hence he hasnt been booked.

It really does vary- do you have someone who could recommend someone?
 
I would book him into a training class after finding a good one and after you have had a long chat to the trainer explaining your dogs problems and how they can help.

Took Fred 40kg 2yr Dobe to classes with a trainer who was aware of his problems, Fred would kick off big time if another dog barked in the hall and just wanted to get over there and kill it. My trainer had Dobes and was an ex police dog trainer and was very helpful so if you do your research and get the right trainer you can turn your dog around but be prepared for a lot of hard work and committment.
 
I spent 1.5 hours in a well lit industrial estate (I literally had no spare time so the darkness had to do) using my own dogs to work with plus one random dog walker appeared (nice one):D they where 2 labradoodles (x breeds):rolleyes: I should be shot:o (I am so bad at charging) I said donate to my mams rescue a sum of £25:p they came back to my house and gave me more money (followed me) home:eek:. I did solve the issue though, which was pulling and being dog reactive. It was all in the handling.;) I used both reprimand and positive reward.
I also chatted re house rules and educated them on some tools (good training leads) and manners re barging from car (they def got a bargain) I got freezing:(
 
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First thing you have to do is set out your charges and print out, when people ask just give them the leaflet and voila you dont have to say a word and no embarrassment.

If people ring and ask what are the charges send them a leaflet.:)
 
Dobiegirl said:
First thing you have to do is set out your charges and print out, when people ask just give them the leaflet and voila you dont have to say a word and no embarrassment.

If people ring and ask what are the charges send them a leaflet.:)
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Lol DG you sound like my mam:D I am so bad at asking for money:o I see it as a "If I don't help, it will end up in a rescue":o which I know I bloody should not because people are charging the earth else where for bog all, and then they are coming to me for pittance, hence why I am getting tough with the training malarky this year (no more freebies and cheapies):p I have a basset hound in to train at present (I am charging) don't worry:p, I start as I mean to go on :p

LMFAO CC...... U PISH HEAD:p
 
The trainers we go to, charge £25 for the first hour and a quarter session, then £15 per hour ongoing for 1-2-1 training and for more behavioural type issues its £60 and includes min 2hr consultation and the first 4 weeks email / phone support and follow up, though its extra for travel.
I think that's reasonable, though i would prefer to meet/see them in action to check out their methods if they've not come recommended, having had a poor training experience in the past i'm rather cautious though.
 
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Hmm, I don't know any dog people locally so getting recommendations is hard.... £75 does seem a lot for an unknown trainer :( Glad you are charging CAYLA, what are the benefits of a training lead over a normal lead?
 
Bossdog said:
Hmm, I don't know any dog people locally so getting recommendations is hard.... £75 does seem a lot for an unknown trainer :( Glad you are charging CAYLA, what are the benefits of a training lead over a normal lead?
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A good lead = better handling, a bad lead can hurt your hands and hinder your ability to handle the dog and believe it or not makes life 10 times harder, i.e a thin rope/chain/or cheapie thin nylon lead are no good for a dog that pulls and will render the handler incapable of positioning or feeding the lead correctly through the hand/s (where it should be) due to the discomfort the lead will cause to you hands when the dog pulls and you attempt to get control and even give a nasty burn, or a better example an extendy lead!, you cannot feed one of those through your hands/s like a good halti or leather training lead, you would strip your skin off or literally you will not attempt to handle the dog at all and instead just let it go and grab the big plastic thingy.

Bit like using cheap thin reins/rope to ride instead of nice worn leather/rubber reins.

You need a nice comfortable lead you can both hold and position well, dog on your left, lead running through both hands for the beginner:p (like a rein lmao), you can do a one hander if you are using treats:p, nice slack lead with your left (closest to dog) hand holding the lead at thigh height and your right hand holiding the lead at about hip height (I am so fecking sad):o and dog at your left side. With your choice of collar/half/check or choke chain (used correctly with the loop running against the chain) and positioned high on the neck (you would really need a demo for that to be fair). And when your have fully mastered the pulling/unwanted behaviour then a simple slip lead will suffice:D:p
Pictures would be better:(

I think you should def go for a recommendation and for this behaviour (not just any old person) you need someone out with you on a walk not just coming to your home.
I think training class may be the way to go when the kids have returned to school.
 
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