Yep it’s completely wrong as you are at the back of the saddle. BTW I have this exact issue and can probably dig out some photos. I have to have flat seats and very forward cut knee rolls for this reason. Your balance should be in the centre of the saddle. Every time you land over a fence your weight will be in the wrong place. If you have to put your stirrups down then it’s telling you it’s not working.
I slightly deviate from the hive mind.
The saddle is not ideal, it looks like a close contact pure jump saddle, with no 'knee roll' as such, but with an upper thigh block. Thus, it is neither here nor there for safety if your knee is over the front. The safety is because your thigh is under the upper/front thigh block.
That being said, the shape of the saddle flap is wrong. In these jump saddles, with no knee block, and if I am correct the panel doesn't come far down beyond the tree point either, the flaps actually flex and ride OVER the shoulder as opposed to sitting behind the shoulder as a panelled GP saddle would do. Thus, the saddle could have a bigger flap and your horse could accommodate that.
These saddles tend to come in a seat size, so 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, and a with, so N (in continental saddles this is usually 'Normal' as opposed to narrow, and also NW, W etc. Then, they also have a flap size, this may be simply a 2, but that could do a 3 or even a 4. Then, they have flap angle, so A is more straight, AA is more forward etc. Different brands are different, but this is just to demonstrate that even I the seat size is the max your horse can have, the flap may be able to be bigger.
In this type of saddle, once you are up and trotting/cantering, the look will be different. Once your weight is in 2 point seat (as in weight more in stirrups and your weight off their backs) you will probably be in the correct place in the saddle.
For jumping, if this is so, I would not be concerned about this saddle. However, if you wanted to also hack, as in sit your a$$ in the saddle when walking round, then I would be concerned as you are sitting too far back. These saddles don't have as large a panel area anyway, and if you sit too far to the back, it compounds the issue.
Hope that helps!
Sadly it doesn’t really work that way. With jumping length the knee needs to be at least 45 degs even with 2 point. If you have incorrect saddle flaps to fit it will still push you back as not enough room at the front for the knee. This will still push you to the back of the saddle and increase pressure points on landing because your bum comes back into the saddle on landing. This is why you need to be central or more forwards in a jump saddle. I can ride in a 17 inch seat fwd cut but over bigger jumps I end up compromised in take off or on landing as risk hitting the cantle. Tbh it’s a massive issue I see time and time again. I will dig out some photos in an hour or so to demonstrate.
But both those examples are super flat seats with really forward cut knee rolls so you would have enough space with shortened stirrups at 45 degs.I am just going on my experience with 17.5 inch, both Butet and Cheldric. I seem to be too far back in the saddle when sat walking, but when we got moving, they were both fine. Evented for years in one anyway. No sore backs. Worked for me.
The saddle will be for show jumping and cross country and I have a dressage I ride out in my horse is very compact and this is the only saddle that has fit himI slightly deviate from the hive mind.
The saddle is not ideal, it looks like a close contact pure jump saddle, with no 'knee roll' as such, but with an upper thigh block. Thus, it is neither here nor there for safety if your knee is over the front. The safety is because your thigh is under the upper/front thigh block.
That being said, the shape of the saddle flap is wrong. In these jump saddles, with no knee block, and if I am correct the panel doesn't come far down beyond the tree point either, the flaps actually flex and ride OVER the shoulder as opposed to sitting behind the shoulder as a panelled GP saddle would do. Thus, the saddle could have a bigger flap and your horse could accommodate that.
These saddles tend to come in a seat size, so 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, and a with, so N (in continental saddles this is usually 'Normal' as opposed to narrow, and also NW, W etc. Then, they also have a flap size, this may be simply a 2, but that could do a 3 or even a 4. Then, they have flap angle, so A is more straight, AA is more forward etc. Different brands are different, but this is just to demonstrate that even I the seat size is the max your horse can have, the flap may be able to be bigger.
In this type of saddle, once you are up and trotting/cantering, the look will be different. Once your weight is in 2 point seat (as in weight more in stirrups and your weight off their backs) you will probably be in the correct place in the saddle.
For jumping, if this is so, I would not be concerned about this saddle. However, if you wanted to also hack, as in sit your a$$ in the saddle when walking round, then I would be concerned as you are sitting too far back. These saddles don't have as large a panel area anyway, and if you sit too far to the back, it compounds the issue.
Hope that helps!
The issue is you are sat on the rear of the saddle, a tree in a saddle is designed for central weight and you are not central, this will mean your weight distribution on the saddle/horse is not correct, what you may find and feel is that your horse is not flowing/ working through his quarters as he should if he's hitting poles it's probably why.The saddle will be for show jumping and cross country and I have a dressage I ride out in my horse is very compact and this is the only saddle that has fit him
The saddle will be for show jumping and cross country and I have a dressage I ride out in my horse is very compact and this is the only saddle that has fit him