Improving grazing

Remi'sMum

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Advice needed please.

Clay soil, DIY livery, 1 horse, field approx 1.25 acres. The yard do minimal land maintenance, harrowing and rolling after winter and will fertilise if requested (I never have had it fertilised in the 5 yrs I’ve been using it)

Field was rested July to November last year following loss of previous horse, so there was grass in abundance when new horse arrived in November. However, field was utterly trashed over winter with all the rain and new horses’ tendency to gallop with gay abandon through the mud 🙄

Result now is minimal grass, large bare patches, still some ruts because it had dried too much once they rolled, some clover (although not as much as previous years) and buttercups in abundance. Buttercups were topped 3 weeks ago but had already flowered and some have flowered since. There’s also some other sort of low growing weed, no idea what but quite a lot of it. Very few docks, no ragwort.

Should I have had it fertilised? Is it too late to fertilise now? I feel like I’d only be fertilising the weeds anyway.

No option to rest it again as no access to another field and horse is not a great respecter of electric fencing so although I could divide it and rest part, I’m a bit reluctant to do so.

What can I do as 1 person with no machinery and no knowledge of land maintenance, to improve matters?? A bit of rain might help (never thought I’d say those words after the winter we had!!) but none forecast for however long..

Thoughts please wise HHOers.

TIA x
 

JillA

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Not a lot TBH - one of mine is a bit like that, it was either too wet or too dry to roll and harrow. Other than spending money on overseeding (and any new seeds will need at least twelve to eighteen months rest to allow the roots to establish) all you can do is hang in there. If you end up having to hay, put the hay on the bare patches and any seed that drop out will germinate when we eventually get some rain. Resist poo picking if you can - any latrine areas will recover and grow while the horses don't graze them - and then harrow in late winter. I'm hoping equine feet will flatten the poaching out in mine once we get some rain.
 

Goldenstar

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I would not stop poo picking that will sour the grass further .
I would try three bags of suregrow CSM this will give the grass you have the best possible nutrient balance to encourage its health .
I would also consider halfing it and putting a bag of sure grow fertiliser on the resting half and see what effect that has .
You need to spread any thing you put when rain is due .
 

bubsqueaks

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I would not stop poo picking that will sour the grass further .
I would try three bags of suregrow CSM this will give the grass you have the best possible nutrient balance to encourage its health .
I would also consider halfing it and putting a bag of sure grow fertiliser on the resting half and see what effect that has .
You need to spread any thing you put when rain is due .

Ooh thankyou Goldenstar have just looked up suregrow & as a newbee land owner that's most helpful.
 

Spottyappy

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I use suregrow, but do find you need to use slightly more than the recommended dose, as it were.
If at all possible, try and get the horse to respect electric fence and rest part of it.
You said you’re a land owner? If so, buy implements yourself, one by one if money doesn’t allow to make mass purchase. Do you already have a Harrow and roller, or do you pay someone? Harrowing breaks the ruts down a treat, and if you have your own you can Harrow any time,( but do keep the horse off the harrowed area for a couple of weeks, as there’s a possible link to grass sickness) and when it is dry any car will tow a Harrow. I have used a Citroen C1 in the past! If you can get the electric fence respect, also top the rested part as that will allow the grass to thicken, and reduce weeds. A mower is fine as long as said horse will not get through the fence.
 

southerncomfort

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I would not stop poo picking that will sour the grass further .
I would try three bags of suregrow CSM this will give the grass you have the best possible nutrient balance to encourage its health .
I would also consider halfing it and putting a bag of sure grow fertiliser on the resting half and see what effect that has .
You need to spread any thing you put when rain is due .

I had some patches where the grass just wasn't coming through. There was grass there if you no what I mean but it had just stopped growing while the grass in the rest of the paddock was growing just fine.

I did exactly as suggested above. I marked out the short-grass areas with plastic fence posts and bought a couple of sacks of Suregrow and spread it myself by hand. This was about a month ago and the grass started growing again about 10 days ago and is growing steadily now. I think it carries on working for 2-3 months.

ETA: I have kept my lot off the areas treated with Suregrow and I won't let them back on until January/February now.
 

lamlyn2012

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Echo Suregrow to help growth but buttercups plus clay would make me think about liming. Buy a soil analysis kit and check the Ph.
 

silvershadow81

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mine is exactly the same as you describe. We moved in Feb, it went boggy and muddy, then rock solid. Lady before used to chuck the poo back on fields, which is a big no, no.

this makes it too acidic, which buttercups love and thrive on.

We sprayed using ENVY (you can also use Grazon) as these are good at targeting buttercups. You need a grazing break of around 10-14 days afterwards.

If this is not possible to have a break from grazing the paddock, you can spread granulated lime onto the paddocks. This will change the acidity of the paddock, and make it hard for buttercups to grow. You also do not need to remove stock.

Good luck, this approach is working for mine, I did a LOT of research!! :)
 

Remi'sMum

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Thank you all for replies, I will investigate a soil analysis kit, liming and Suregrow. And yes, I’ll try dividing the field as suggested. He went through electric fence a few times over winter hence my reluctance but hopefully now warm and sunny he’s a bit more relaxed about things. .

And I’m not a landowner, no. Wish I was!!

Thanks all!
 

Bellalily

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As long as you can keep said horse off part of it, I'd start by getting the soil analysed. Then, when the result is back, make up a mix to balance the soil and spread when rain is due. You also need to lime it. Then rest it for six weeks, top and you should be fine to use it for grazing. Our land used to get completely trashed every winter with copious amounts of snow as well as rain, and we always managed to have it looking fab by the end of spring.
Good luck, it can be very rewarding.
 

poiuytrewq

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Does anyone have an idea as to what adding lime actually costs?
I just ask because the farm here had all fields limed last year and a guy came to do it with a massive machine (huge, slightly reminded me of an old steam engine!!)
I mentioned to OH that my fields needed doing to help with buttercups and he snorted at me....
 

whiteflower

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Make sure you do a soil analysis before adding lime. We thought ours was acidic due to buttercups growing but it's actually alkaline slightly and adding lime would have seriously impacted on grass growth. Buttercups and weeds don't always mean the soil is acidic
 

lamlyn2012

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We had a four acre field done last year. Sorry I can't remember the cost but it wasn't expensive. It has made such an improvement to the land. It is a slow release product, been done just over twelve months, best done in spring.
Field was also sprayed with Envy last year and we have very few buttercups now.
 

Tiddlypom

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Make sure you do a soil analysis before adding lime. We thought ours was acidic due to buttercups growing but it's actually alkaline slightly and adding lime would have seriously impacted on grass growth. Buttercups and weeds don't always mean the soil is acidic
This. Established buttercups just laugh at lime, ours are thriving again despite 2 x limings and 2x sprayings over the last 10 years, it's an ongoing job keeping on top of them.
 

JillA

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This. Established buttercups just laugh at lime, ours are thriving again despite 2 x limings and 2x sprayings over the last 10 years, it's an ongoing job keeping on top of them.

Yes, and mine, despite being limed twice since I bought the place. They have underground rhizomes which survive pretty much anything - the recommendation is to spray every three years. I'm two years in, and apart from the buttercups the clover has been trashed - until then I had had no idea how much it outcompeted the grass, after the clover was killed the grass came through better than ever.
OP if you want to really improve land that doesn't belong to you and you could lose at any time, find a local farmer, contractor or agronomist who knows the area and pick their brains. Mostly with land it is a long term project.
 

honetpot

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I would not stop poo picking that will sour the grass further .
I would try three bags of suregrow CSM this will give the grass you have the best possible nutrient balance to encourage its health .
I would also consider halfing it and putting a bag of sure grow fertiliser on the resting half and see what effect that has .
You need to spread any thing you put when rain is due .

Perfect answer.
The only thing I would add is no matter how little its growing taking them off will do some good. Horses will graze to the roots and it takes the longer for the grass to recover if its taken to bare earth.
 

Remi'sMum

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An update for anybody who’s interested.

1. Field now divided and horse out overnight only (he’s never out 24/7 anyway) with hay.
2. Soil analysis kit on order.
3. Sure grow researched (looks good) but not ordered yet pending soil results.
4. Field measured with a view to calculating quantities of what I might need. Am astonished to discover it’s actually only half an acre 😳. I have no idea where I got 1.25 acres from. I’m sure the yard owner told me that’s what it was. Or maybe I plucked that figure from my butt. Anyway, I’m aware this size isn’t considered enough for 1 horse but it’s what I’ve got so I’ll have to make the best of it.
5. Praying for rain!! (None forecast 😥 )
 

Goldenstar

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Your not going to be liming half an acre .
So that tiny a plot I would get a wiggle on and use the csm and suregrow fertilzer on half as soon as it’s going to rain .
Give it three weeks and swop and go the other half .
I would do it again in September .
That’s a tiny paddock you will struggle .
 

Remi'sMum

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Yep, it’s small and I’m very surprised having measured it. It’s L shaped so I think is deceptive. The thing is, I’ve been on this yard and in this field for 7 yrs. My horses haven’t ever been kept out 24/7 and this is the first year I’ve had serious concerns about lack of grazing, and as far as I remember it’s the first year I’ve been giving hay in the field in summer. And my horses have always looked great.

So I shall do what I can to improve matters....
 

Micky

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First thing we did when we arrived at our new place was weed kill docks creeping buttercups etc, sectioned off small paddock for his lordship, waited a couple of weeks, harrowed, grass seed, rolled, now waiting for the rain to set it ! Buttercups are a pain..have to do them nearly every year..
 

Goldenstar

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Yep, it’s small and I’m very surprised having measured it. It’s L shaped so I think is deceptive. The thing is, I’ve been on this yard and in this field for 7 yrs. My horses haven’t ever been kept out 24/7 and this is the first year I’ve had serious concerns about lack of grazing, and as far as I remember it’s the first year I’ve been giving hay in the field in summer. And my horses have always looked great.

So I shall do what I can to improve matters....

For next year you can get seed wrapped in fertizer that you put on half early in the spring/ summer that would be April here put it might earlier with you .
You get the paddock cleaned and levelled after winter and then sow the seed I do this by hand on half again do it before rain .
This might or might not help on such a small area because it will be hard to give it a long enough rest .
I have stopped bothering with seed here it’s expensive and inevitably the same area gets poached again but I am managing a bigger area .
You can do a lot in a small area hand digging weeds hard work but in a small space it might be worth it . I used to pop a handful of grass seed into the area where I dug up a weed in my tiny paddocks I am not sure it was worth it for me but you might try that in your situation .
It is what it is it’s a shame cost wise to have to feed hay out in summer but it’s really a sun and recreation area for your horse so don’t get too worried about it .
Winters are always going to be a nightmare in this situation If the paddock was a little bigger I would say try sacrificing half in winter and resting the other half .might that work ? You could increase the horses work in winter and turnout for shorter periods .
If he’s a slim horses dried grass just but straight onto the ground is something they enjoy .
 

Remi'sMum

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Another update for anybody interested in my teach- yourself-diy- by- hand- paddock-management story 🙄

Soil analysis results are in.
- ph low but only slightly, 5.9 with a guideline of 6
- phosphorous and sodium very low
- sulphur and copper low
- calcium and zinc slightly low
- magnesium very high
- potassium, manganese, iron and molybdenum normal

Progreen, who I got the soil analysis from, have been very helpful. They’ve recommended products to use and appropriate quantities and explained the reasons why. They’ve also been happy to answer all my numpty questions so far.

I’m going to speak to the farmer and ask if he has stock of any of these products or equivalents and if not I’ll just bite the bullet and get them bought myself. I know the timing might not be ideal but I figure anything I do will help.

Horse is currently very happy out overnight in half the field with hay and so far hasn’t jumped or gone through the electric tape. Touch wood.

Still praying for rain. We’ve had 2 spells of rain in the last 2 weeks, neither lasting more than a few hours and it’s made no difference whatsoever. The field has been divided for 3 weeks I think and although I can see a bit of a difference in the rested half, it’s minimal to say the least...
 
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