Increasing grass density

Fat_Pony

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My fields were ungrazed for about 10 years before i moved in and apart from the odd bramble around the edge, don't have too many weeds and are a nice mix of different grasses and herbs.

Now the horses have eaten the grass down, there appears to be more bare ground than grass. The density of the growth is very low.

how do I go about encouraging the grass to spread? Or do I need to reseed over the top to get a denser growth? These fields will be rested over the whole of winter as they get very wet, so I think it is the perfect time to give them some tlc. No way ill get any vehicles in there over winter though - ill just sink!
 
You need to direct drill the seed into the soil. Machine cuts a slice into the soil and drops the seed into the cut. To get density you need to encourage good roots with the right fertiliser and often, mowing or grazing to keep the grass short. Force it to grow more shoots.

Think of how a new lawn increases in density, it's a balance between fertiliser, water and controlled cutting.
 
Our fields were like this when we bought them. They were just fallow and the grass there had just evolved so was quite poor and thin. We have had the land for 3 years now and we invested in a muck spreader and we spread the rotted manure heaps we have over part of the land at this time of the year. Now there is a common misconception that manure proliferates weeds, but this is because farmers won't use horse manure due to the hay seeds which will grow grasses in their crops. Obviously grasses are encouraged in our case so it makes a perfect fertiliser.
We also fertilise lightly with a horse paddock specific low nitrogen fertiliser in spring. We have 'overseeded' with a grass/herb mix, but you really need to get the timing perfect with the weather and pigeons looking to fatten up for winter on your scattered seed.
We actually do not want rich grass - so have found that this system works for us - the grass is not prolific, but certainly provides sufficient forage with management and periodic resting of paddocks.
We have just bought an aeriator to try and encourage the root growth too.
 
Yasandcrystal should you decide to do anymore reseeding go for the direct drilling method, seeds are buried and take better.

Autumn is the best time of year as the weeds have usually done thir dash and warmth and moisture are usually at the right level. So effectively from now on.
 
Thanks for this Tnavas - yes I can see that would be far better.

The weather plays such a part with the weeds too. The weeds got a real hold last year as we had such wet weather and the grass suffered. this year with a good early growth of grass the weeds hardly got a look in.
 
Echo the above from Tnavas.... my OH has had quite a few calls of late from neighbouring farmers wanting direct drilling done. It's the perfect time of the year to be done to bulk up the pasture and ensure that the seeds are under the ground and protected a little while they begin the take root.

I'd be looking to call in a suitable person to direct drill your pasture for you, one pass should be suffice. You can provide the seed of which you can choose yourself which is a plus!

Hope you get it sorted. I'd do it sooner rather than later before we lose the decent weather and daylight!
 
Before doing anything remove all poos (Do not harrow them - remove them off site). This will achieve better grass growth and prevent any worms from being spread.
Once the grass starts growing we use a 'Cut and Collector' about 4 times in the growing season to densen up the grass and stimulate root growth.
A 'Cut and Collector' cuts the grass and then collects it ensuring that the maximun light can then get at the new grass.
Also try to keep horses off the overseede/newly seeded field for at least 12 months to get the new grass established.
 
If you can borrow some sheep they will solve all your problems.

Totally agree with this - they keep it nicely cut so encourage spreading outwards rather than bolting upwards and self spread a grass friendly fertiliser. I've borrowed some from someone on here after myself posting a similar thread.

I think it's also worth testing the soil for £25 you'll find out if anything obvious is missing. Our land was very low in phosphorus (which is needed for root growth and spreading) so we have topped this up to hopefully increase density. If you haven't got all the growth components - no matter how much nitrogen you put on grass won't grow!

I wad told potatoe fertiliser is ideal for horse grass as it has a mix of all things needed without massive amounts of nitrogen - and is much cheaper than anything with the word 'horse' in the title.!!
 
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Before doing anything remove all poos (Do not harrow them - remove them off site). This will achieve better grass growth and prevent any worms from being spread.
Once the grass starts growing we use a 'Cut and Collector' about 4 times in the growing season to densen up the grass and stimulate root growth.
A 'Cut and Collector' cuts the grass and then collects it ensuring that the maximun light can then get at the new grass.
Also try to keep horses off the overseede/newly seeded field for at least 12 months to get the new grass established.

Why would you not spread the muck? I was planning on spreading my well rotted muck heap on it
 
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