Mouth opening

[toomanyhorses26]

My tb has a bit of an issue with mouth opening. He has always done it since I have had him and I am at a bit of a loss as to how to minimize it. He doesn't go around with it wide open but it is quite a subtle open and close but you can still feel iton the rein contact. I have tried loose ring snaffle(single and french link),wilkie with a french link,single jointed pelham,ns team up bit ,eggbutt (frenchlink,single joint and with cheeks) ,double bridle and there are prob a few others I have forgotton have also tried with a noseband,without a noseband,cavesson,drop and flash.His teeth are up to date and he does it schooling ,hacking,jumping ,with me riding ,with other people riding. One major problem I have withhim is getting him properly forward off my leg and I am wondering whether this is the missing link - I have managed it a few times (100% true forwardness) but he can loose balance as we have a rather tiny school so he is constantly having to deal with corners . He is more forward out hacking but in true tb fashion we would rather look at everything else and also I feel that his hacks should be a break from schooling so I try to not ask for too much on a hack (maybe I should) . Anybody else have any solutions to this or have I missed something really obvious ??

 

[Pearlsacarolsinger]

It would probably be worth trying different thicknesses of bit (I bet he will prefer a thin bit to a thick one). TBs often have a low palate, which does not leave mush room for a thick bit, so making him uncomfortable and leading to opening of the mouth to relieve the pressure. I see most, if not all, the bits you have tried have been jointed of one sort or another - what about trying a mullen-mouthed, or low-ported bit? You could also try different bitting materials to see if these make any difference. Please don't resort to fastening his mouth shut with a noseband though.

 

[Louby]

My horse seems to have the same problem, Ive watch him closely whilst lunging and he is drawing his tongue back which is what I think I can feel when Im riding him. Ive tried all sorts of bits with no success and also nosebands which dont help. My horse seems to be mesmorised when he does it almost as if sucking a dummy and this then leads to him spooking at 'normal' things as hes so pre occupied I think he then gets a shock when something appears???
I am working on getting him more forward and finally he has almost forgot to do it in walk, its great when he doesnt do it. He even mouthed up for the first time in 8 yrs, sad I know but it was such an achievment. I do believe it is something to do with not truely going forwards and working from behind into a light contact. Ive spent hundreds on bits but I dont believe that is the answer. Fair dos try the obvious, like a french link or lozenge or thinner bit but how did we cope years ago befor the Mylers, sprengers etc came on the market. Its took me a long time to accept this as my nickname is the bit queen

 

[chrisnapthineEDT]

get his teeth checked properly.....look at the incisors are they strait or do they have a smile or a angled line? your horses jaw needs to slide to the side you turn so if they have some dental issues then they cant slide there jaw with the teeth in contact so open there mouth to part there teeth thus enabling there jaw to slide.....its the most common and over looked problem as most people dont look just stick a flash on ect ect

 

[toomanyhorses26]

I don't resort to nosebands as he doesn't get strong with it ,you can just feel him on the end of rein. Haven't tried a straight bar I have to say so will have a rummage in the tack room tomorrow. I have tried varying thicknesses from a normal french link to a bridoon width bit and I couldn;t honestly say there was a massive difference but kept him in the slightly narrower ones on the advice of my dentist and instructor. Teeth are up to date and the dentist in question has treated him since he first arrived in the country as a two year old and throughout his racing career so know him and his teeth well

 

[oldvic]

You have answered your own question. When he is genuinely forward infront of your leg to the contact you will go some way to solving the problem. I'm not saying that it will be cured for ever but it will improve. Of course you want to find the bit that the horse is most comfortable in but there is no substitute for correct schooling. If he has been a racehorse then he will have been taught to be against the hand and as he learnt this first he will tend to revert. Getting him as well connected from behind as you can is the answer.