Myler combination bits

saddlesore

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What are your thoughts on the short shank version of these? I am struggling to find a bit to hack my youngster in as (in typical youngster fashion!) he can be very unpredictable, and is liable to whip round,tense and TOTALY ignore bit etc. Had been using draw reins alongside current bit (straight bar nathe) but i don't want to have to continue with this.
I have no breaks at all in a french link or jointed snaffle, he is at his best with a straight bar mouthpiece. My logic was that (and this is only for hacking), it will spread any pressure across his face, making my instructions clearer - NOT stronger. I follow a lot of richard maxwell methods and my horse well schooled to pressure and release. He schools nicely and rides fine in fields - hacking is just far too exciting to listen to rider and i dont want to get off on the wrong foot with him thinking he's the boss (he's 4). Any thoughts?
Ps,everything has been checked and i have good hands
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Shazzababs

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Don't know about the Mylers, but have you thought about using a bit with full cheeks? They can often be helpful to demonstrate clear signals to a younster, and give you some emergency steering if required.

Does he hack out better with a companion?
 

Silverspring

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i really like the Myler as you can mix and match the mouth piece to find one that the horse is happy in.

The combination bit is lovely to ride it, I have used one for 4 years on my Arab who is super flighty but generally really light in the mouth.

I like the fact you can take a contact without losing the snaffle feel which she always did in gags (she came with an American gag) but when you really need it it is quite a strong hackamore plus bit.

They are recommended for young horses as obviously for stearing and braking they are used to a halter which the hackamore mimicks. I would maybe try a hackamore first to make sure the nose pressure doesn't upset him, some horse can be very sensitive in the face and just start chucking their head etc with hackamores.
 

saddlesore

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Thanks PS, i was looking at getting the mullen triple barrel as my TB loved this mouthpiece and he was very sensitive in the mouth so figured it cant be too strong! I also like the fact that it is a flexible bit unless you have to take a pull in it. Maybe bite the bullet and give it a go - typical that i cant find a bit bank that offers it!
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LauraBR

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[ QUOTE ]
I would maybe try a hackamore first to make sure the nose pressure doesn't upset him, some horse can be very sensitive in the face and just start chucking their head etc with hackamores.

[/ QUOTE ]

I would second this. In theory the myler combination should have been perfect for my last horse but he hated the pressure, threw his head in the air, went very stuffy and backwards and just wouldn't work at all with even the lightest contact. It's a lot money to spend so would definitely recommend trying a hackmore or borrowing a combination to try before you buy.
 

joey1999

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Look on the website called "a bit different". You can get Myler bits from them and try them for 3 weeks and send them back if you don't like them and they will refund you (minus £5 for trying the bit!).
 

0ldmare

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I had one for my young mare who was liable to flap her tongue over the bit (big tongue and small mouth bless her). She loved the myler combination and never did it so it must have been comfy. I found it a good bit and liked the way it spread the pressure rather than it all being on the mouth. I would definitely use it again and its made me very keen on the mylers in general
 

ponydentist

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From a professional point of view and having worked with Dale Myler (of Myler Bits) at dentistry School. the secret to bitting horses (and the majority of "resistance" problems arise from this), is finding a bit which allows the toungue to carry out its functions as "unhindered" as possible. The best design of bit for this is the snaffle containing a device which prevents the pinching action of the joint in the middle...e.g. "french link" type bits. IMO this is probably the best "off the peg" bit to suit the oral anatomy of most horses and ponies and should ALWAYS be considered as first choice as a "starter" bit.

The myler bits are used as part of a bitting "system" which is dependant on the horses level of training and development and the "level" by which these bits are classified refers to the level of training of the horse.....not the level of "stopability" of the bit.

There is NO bit available in the world today which is a substitute for TRAINING or "schooling" as some refer to it.

If you study Richard Maxwells methods then you you should be aware of how to keep the horses attention on you...e.g. you take over from him in moving his feet..and YOU move his FEET where you want them to go...not where he wants to put them.....a horse cant think about two things at once (like most men they cant multi task...lol) and cant get distracted by something else whist having to think about where to put their feet to balance themselves and stop themselves from falling over....remember, horses are crap at thinking....brilliant at reacting...so dont let him react by making him think.

With a bit that is suitable and comfortable and un-opposing for HIM / HER (meaning the horse...not the rider) you should be able to take the distraction off what ever it is he's distacted by through moving his feet backwards, forwards, up, down, left or right.....whenever you want to.

The myler combination snaffle needs to be "explained" to the horse and shown how it works through sometimes MANY hours of schooling before hacking....It may be that your horse is just not ready for being hacked out yet because he's not responsive ENOUGH, to you.....his resonse should be INSTANT.....EVERY time.

Sorry to sound a kill joy or a bit harsh. Its just that in my profession I see so much missunderstanding with bits....and people insisting on using certain bits which just dont suit their horses mouth shape, conformation or type. Afterall...a horses brakes are not in his mouth....they are in his head....and you only stop a horse by stopping his feet from moving.
 

saddlesore

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Thanks for your reply!! totally agree with what you are saying BUT my issue is that his focus is everywhere but me and he is being quite bracey so it is difficult to get his attention. In no way am i looking to substitute a bit for schooling, it was intended merely to help communicate more effectively. What is your opinion on the myler mullen triple barrel? French link is no use as he totally runs through it.
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ponydentist

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The mullen triple barrel is far too much metal for a four year old, green, easily distracted youngster. It is more of a "refinement" bit.

You must also make sure his teeth are perfect....only use a registed qualified EDT or a Vet who is also a member of the BAEDT.

If he is being "bracey", th e "one rein stop" will help massive and at the same time ensure you can get his full attention in a wide range of situations and scenarios. Max uses this technique and so does Clinton Anderson. It is far too complicated to explain in writing here, but believe me, once you have learnt it, you will never want to be without it.
 
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