Nick Dorman dressage saddle

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Hello, I’m interested in getting a second hand Nick Dorman dressage saddles for our 16.3 Irish cob. 3 people on my yard have them and they nicely clear his high wither and large shoulders. Does anyone have experience of theses saddles and how adjustable are they? Thank you
 
I think you probably mean Nick Dolman saddles? They I think are mainly on a flexible tree. They were quite popular 10 years ago or so, no idea now. I wanted one, but saddle fitter (not Dolman or his colleagues) was adamant my horse needed a fixed tree so I ended up with something else and have no personal experience. The something else in the end was a disaster so now I only go for easy to sell on saddles of a well known, quality but not paying for big money trend.brands, as long as they fit.
 
They are on a wooden tree so only minimally adjustable in width, despite the flex in the middle. Buying second hand I would not suggest adjusting it at all unless you have the 100% guaranteed documented history of any adjustments done to the saddle. At 5 years I won't narrow even the stronger wooden trees (they do vary, no idea where Nick's sit on the spectrum), at 10 years I would seriously consider whether or not to even widen.
 
mariew said:
I think you probably mean Nick Dolman saddles? They I think are mainly on a flexible tree. They were quite popular 10 years ago or so, no idea now. I wanted one, but saddle fitter (not Dolman or his colleagues) was adamant my horse needed a fixed tree so I ended up with something else and have no personal experience. The something else in the end was a disaster so now I only go for easy to sell on saddles of a well known, quality but not paying for big money trend.brands, as long as they fit.
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Yes Nick Dolman! Thank you. Sorry you had a bad experience with a different brand.
 
sbloom said:
They are on a wooden tree so only minimally adjustable in width, despite the flex in the middle. Buying second hand I would not suggest adjusting it at all unless you have the 100% guaranteed documented history of any adjustments done to the saddle. At 5 years I won't narrow even the stronger wooden trees (they do vary, no idea where Nick's sit on the spectrum), at 10 years I would seriously consider whether or not to even widen.
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That’s a good point to check the age of the saddle. I have a saddle fitter who stocks Nick Dolman saddles coming next week to measure my horse and see if she has anything suitable I can try. She’s highly recommended by other liveries in my yard.
 
sbloom said:
They are on a wooden tree so only minimally adjustable in width, despite the flex in the middle. Buying second hand I would not suggest adjusting it at all unless you have the 100% guaranteed documented history of any adjustments done to the saddle. At 5 years I won't narrow even the stronger wooden trees (they do vary, no idea where Nick's sit on the spectrum), at 10 years I would seriously consider whether or not to even widen.
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I've never heard of that, is that because the wood in the tree deteriorates? If it's been adjusted properly/ well would that have prevented the tree deteriorating?
 
I love mine but have never had it adjusted. It fits my very hard to fit partbred arab mare who is as round as a pumpkin with a girth groove that sits about as far forward as they can get.

Hers is a monoflap and it is light, and very comfortable.
 
Squeak said:
I've never heard of that, is that because the wood in the tree deteriorates? If it's been adjusted properly/ well would that have prevented the tree deteriorating?
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What have you been told? I'm intrigued as this is pretty industry standard, though as you'll see from my comment below it's interpreted differently. Someone who was involved with my training when I first joined the industry tells people you can adjust a wooden tree "loads of times" which is a high risk strategy for you and your horse. Likely to have every expensive outcomes.

No, the wood doesn't deteriorate but it's not wood that keeps the width at the front, it's the bit that has a bit of flex in it, but as you'll probably realise wood has no "memory" - they have a metal headplate which fatigues through adjustments, it's held to the beech or birch laminate tree with rivets which are also subject to fatigue. It's just not worth the risk and this is the case for all wooden trees, some fitters won't adjust them at all, some will only do it by sending back to the workshop to be fully checked over.

Adjusting it properly is an absolute requirement for safety and means it's not been broken, it's not really something that contributes to being able to adjust the width more over time, though having a poorly fitted saddle can make the tree more likely to warp over time (different to the fatigue in the headplate).
 
sbloom said:
What have you been told? I'm intrigued as this is pretty industry standard, though as you'll see from my comment below it's interpreted differently. Someone who was involved with my training when I first joined the industry tells people you can adjust a wooden tree "loads of times" which is a high risk strategy for you and your horse. Likely to have every expensive outcomes.

No, the wood doesn't deteriorate but it's not wood that keeps the width at the front, it's the bit that has a bit of flex in it, but as you'll probably realise wood has no "memory" - they have a metal headplate which fatigues through adjustments, it's held to the beech or birch laminate tree with rivets which are also subject to fatigue. It's just not worth the risk and this is the case for all wooden trees, some fitters won't adjust them at all, some will only do it by sending back to the workshop to be fully checked over.

Adjusting it properly is an absolute requirement for safety and means it's not been broken, it's not really something that contributes to being able to adjust the width more over time, though having a poorly fitted saddle can make the tree more likely to warp over time (different to the fatigue in the headplate).
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Ah I wonder if I've misunderstood you - I took your initial post to mean you wouldn't adjust flocking but I think you're meaning adjusting the actual tree?
 
sbloom said:
They are on a wooden tree so only minimally adjustable in width, despite the flex in the middle. Buying second hand I would not suggest adjusting it at all unless you have the 100% guaranteed documented history of any adjustments done to the saddle. At 5 years I won't narrow even the stronger wooden trees (they do vary, no idea where Nick's sit on the spectrum), at 10 years I would seriously consider whether or not to even widen.
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Agree with this 💯. Livery had one that they kept adjusting and the tree broke in the end.
 
I think he had a reasonably good rep a while back but I have to say I’ve never used him/his saddles.

From the depths of my brain I want to say he modelled his stuff on ideal saddles. I could be completely wrong mind, but if he did/does I’d honestly just go for ideal. Always easier to sell on a commercial brand.
 
Squeak said:
Ah I wonder if I've misunderstood you - I took your initial post to mean you wouldn't adjust flocking but I think you're meaning adjusting the actual tree?
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Absolutely, "adjustable saddle" always means the tree. Air and flocking of course can be "adjusted" somit is confusing, but it doesn't make the saddle adjustable per se.
 
ihatework said:
I think he had a reasonably good rep a while back but I have to say I’ve never used him/his saddles.

From the depths of my brain I want to say he modelled his stuff on ideal saddles. I could be completely wrong mind, but if he did/does I’d honestly just go for ideal. Always easier to sell on a commercial brand.
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No, they're very different, strongly related to Barry Swain, they're both types of semiflex tree. Ideal "links" are usually someone that has them rebadged such as Martin Wilkinson, if that makes sense, and they're just standard British construction (front and rear gussets, sewn in panels) so it's unlikely a brand would base their designs on Ideal as such.

Dolman saddles have the semiflex tree, and serge panels with no rear gusset.
 
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I have a Barrie Swain Semiflex dressage, and it has been fab over several horses since I got it in 2011.

I adjust the flocking but leave the tree.

I find the fit suits many horses as it has some flex in it.

I have spoken to Nick Dolman about his, and he says he worked for Barrie Swain and left to make his own. His are not identical but are very similar. His have slightly less flex.

If it fitted, and knew that it had been well looked after (as in not messed with my someone who doesn't understand the way it is made) I would be happy to buy. Beware that it will be best sent to a select few saddlers for flocking; one who understand how they are made. It was fascinating watching the flocking being adjusted on mine, with a knitting needle and without taking it apart. After a few adjustments, I had it taken apart, checked (as there were some weaker trees at one point, I am informed) and re-flocked from the start.

In fact, I now have 2 as I bought one for Rigs too.

One of mine on H is a 17.5 tree with a 17" seat on it, so gusseted at the back with large panels (the panels protrude slightly beyond the back of the seat).
The other, on Rigs, is also a 17 inch seat, but on a 17 inch tree, also with more upswept panels, as he has a shorter back (15.1 cob as opposed to a 16hh ID X.

So, beware that there are many configurations as both saddlers will make one offs for a particular horse/rider combination. They are not expensive second-hand as they are a bit Marmite. I think Rigs' was about £250 and is in great condition. This also makes them not the easiest to sell, as they are not so well known and are a little quirky in construction!
 
I really wanted one at one point. But what Red says is true. He makes them individually a lot of the time, rather than standard batches, so can be hard to know what your looking at second hand. If your buying from a saddler thats much less of a risk than ebay etc though.
 
Red-1 said:
I have a Barrie Swain Semiflex dressage, and it has been fab over several horses since I got it in 2011.

I adjust the flocking but leave the tree.

I find the fit suits many horses as it has some flex in it.

I have spoken to Nick Dolman about his, and he says he worked for Barrie Swain and left to make his own. His are not identical but are very similar. His have slightly less flex.

If it fitted, and knew that it had been well looked after (as in not messed with my someone who doesn't understand the way it is made) I would be happy to buy. Beware that it will be best sent to a select few saddlers for flocking; one who understand how they are made. It was fascinating watching the flocking being adjusted on mine, with a knitting needle and without taking it apart. After a few adjustments, I had it taken apart, checked (as there were some weaker trees at one point, I am informed) and re-flocked from the start.

In fact, I now have 2 as I bought one for Rigs too.

One of mine on H is a 17.5 tree with a 17" seat on it, so gusseted at the back with large panels (the panels protrude slightly beyond the back of the seat).
The other, on Rigs, is also a 17 inch seat, but on a 17 inch tree, also with more upswept panels, as he has a shorter back (15.1 cob as opposed to a 16hh ID X.

So, beware that there are many configurations as both saddlers will make one offs for a particular horse/rider combination. They are not expensive second-hand as they are a bit Marmite. I think Rigs' was about £250 and is in great condition. This also makes them not the easiest to sell, as they are not so well known and are a little quirky in construction!
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Completely agree with all of this. I have a Barrie Swain and two others of the same ilk that I've used for ten years. I've been really pleased with them even on sensitive horses but as Red says not all saddlers understand them and they don't have the best resale value.
 
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