Numpty q - spacing between jumps in a grid?

[wench]

Yes totally numpty question, I haven't set up a grid in years, but that's the intention today.

If I can remember, "correct" striding should be six, one away from the jump, four to allow for one horse stride and then another one then put the jump.

I'm aware may have to adjust to suit my horse!

 

[Shay]

Depends on what you want the grid for! You've described a single stride double. To me a grid is a line of 4 to 5 fences all on a bounce stride, so there is no space for any stride in the middle. The horse lands an immediately pushes up for the next jump. I use 2 human strides for the short fat cob and 2 1/2 for the highly athletic ISH. You do need to know exactly the right striding for your horse though as there is no space for an error! If you need to be sure put the poles on the floor and canter over them making sure the mid stride foot fall is in the middle of the poles. Then put one side of the pole up only - if you crash through a grid you can frighten the horse, not to mention the risk of getting a pole caught between his legs. Once you are sure of the strides put the whole lot up. Also remember as you go higher the stride needs to lengthen slightly, so you might need to adjust if you go up.

 

[TarrSteps]

A grid is any combination of fences on related distances - bounces are one option but distances might be anywhere up to 3 strides, depending on what you want to accomplish. A bounce is 9'-11' depending on size of horse, speed, and what else is in the grid. For most people this will be 3 good sized steps to 3 + a short one. Two steps is 6' ish which isn't even a canter pole set up unless the horse is very, very small or short strided. Even working on extreme collection you wouldn't go much below 8'.

I'm still of the opinion that the best plan is to learn to walk 3' steps (or 1m if you prefer) and work from standard distances adjusted as needed.

 

[ihatework]

It depends what grid you are setting up, what your training purpose is behind the grid and your horses stride length. It also depends what your own stride length is.
What you describe to me is a very short 1 strided double so if you are very unsure I'd suggest having an experienced person on the ground to assist rather than guesstimating.

For me, on my strides, using a horse with average height/stride I work on the principal of 8 of my stides is a competition distance 1 stride (so may shorten fractionally if I wanted to collect the horse a bit) and 3 and a bit would be my regular bounce distance.

 

[Gamebird]

I have mulled over making this reply as I am going to sound very grumpy and possibly slightly patronising, but it is a subject which bothers me. A lot. This is not a dig at the OP at all, in any way. After all she's had the gumption to ask at the very least. Please look away now if you are likely to be offended.

The general knowledge of striding in real life and on this forum (which is a self-selected sample of those who consider themselves 'competition riders') is pretty shocking. This is not an optional specialist subject. This is something which makes and breaks horses. Literally sometimes. It is not something that doesn't apply to you if you're 'only' jumping 65cm. At every level from poles on the ground to Grand Prix it is really important to learn about this stuff to ensure you're being safe, to give yourself and your horse confidence and to enable you to build exercises that will help you improve, not end up in the middle of a pile of poles.

My advice to anyone building fences at home at any level is to learn as much as you possibly can on the subject. It's not difficult. Learning standard distances for canter and placing poles, bounces, one and two stride distances, then riding them on your horse and finding out how they feel to ride will get you a long way. Learn how to walk a stride. A regular 1yd or 1m stride so that you can set distances and walk courses accurately. If you get really interested go and help someone in a clinic or lesson situation by doing fences under their instruction. When you ride doubles and grids in a lesson hop off at the end and walk the distances.

Consistently riding 'bad' distances is the quickest way to drain a horse's confidence and therefore yours. Riding 'good' distances will bolster the confidence of both and give you an eye for a stride and the ability to ride a regular canter stride.

Assuming we're talking about horses, not ponies, some of the distances given above are worryingly short. I usually school over slightly shorter distances than the regular BS striding, but not that short!!!

OK, rant over. Feel free to ignore me or call me a patronising boring old bat. It's probably true. I'm just a patronising boring old bat that gets a bit upset by watching people asking nice horses to do ridiculous things through lack of knowledge. If I can learn it (I'm not the brightest) then anyone can!

 

[TarrSteps]

Here, here, Gb. Very well said.

 

[PaddyMonty]

Feel free to ignore me or call me a patronising boring old bat. !

You're a patronising boring old bat!
I like to do as requested.
Can I just add a little Grumpy old git Victor Meldrew bit to your excellent advise.
Grids should be used to make an approriate and considered change to a horses way of going.
You may want to teach a long striding horse to shorten, a short striding one to lengthen, encourage bascule, lift in the shoulder and a host of other reasons.
Know the standard striding as used in comps is critical. These standard stridings can then be modified gradually to achieve the desired result.
So before building any grid, decide what you want to achieve from it first!

 

[Exploding Chestnuts]

Buy 101 exercises for jumping and it will answer all questions!

 

[DuckToller]

Can't add anything more to what Gamebird said.

As a part-time pc instructor, I wouldn't like to give advice on distances for schooling/grid work unless I was there, as so much depends on variables on the day and what you are trying to achieve. I take into account the school size, direction of travel, which rein the horse is approaching on, obviously whether it's coming in trot or canter, type of jump being used at the end (i.e. filler or airy poles) because I want the horse to enjoy the experience and feel good about himself after it, not confused or worried.

There are standard stride distances for correctly produced/schooled horses, but there could be many reasons why your horse might need it shorter (or slightly longer) than that, if you want the exercise to achieve a result. I adjust the striding as the lesson progresses for more novice combinations rather than expect the rider to get it right just because the distance is correct by show standards. One pony I teach finds double distances tricky - he likes to chip in. If I put up a distance that he struggles with then he will chip in every time. If I start off at the distance he likes, and then get off my backside and shift the wings back each time, he gains confidence and can then manage a standard distance.

So this isn't aimed at the OP, just a back up to what Gamebird said. Sometimes paying a good jumping instructor is money very well spent.