Rice Trailer Floor

[Tilda]

We recently bought an old rice trailer as a bit of a project for my OH to do up for me. It needs a new floor and we are trying to decide the best and most cost effective way of doing it.

So has anybody replaced the floor in their trailer? What did you use? And approximately how much did it cost you?

Any ideas welcome thank you

 

[rockysmum]

I haven't done one for a while but I had a few old Rice trailers over the years.

First thing to consider is weight, I never had to worry about that as my vehicle was well up to the job. If weight is a consideration you might need to speak to Rice Richardson and look at some of the modern floors.

If not then I recommend ordinary tongue and groove floorboarding running front to back, I then added a layer of ply which adds strength and stops the floor springing. Because I really didn't need to worry about weight I then added rubber matting. You can get good quality recycled wood from the second hand timber yards, the matting was the cheapest thinnest stable mats off ebay which were a third of the price of the light trailer matting but again added weight.

The first time I did this I took advice, the metal supports on old Rice floors are too far apart for it to be a good idea to just use ply, it needs the support of the floorboards.

The only real difficulties I found were grinding out the old bolts and getting the ramp spring fastened back in the right place. Not rocket science but hard work, especially the grinding.

While the floor is out get someone to check the metal frame, its really cheap to get some welding done if necessary when the floor is out. The bits I found needed strengthening were around where the axles are mounted. Personally I had a couple of extra bits of angle iron to reduce the distance between the supports but that was probably overkill.

I bolted the floorboarding onto the chassis as it forms part of the strength of the whole trailer. However I fastened the ply down so it could be easily lifted to check the floor condition on a regular basis. But I have always being a little paranoid about trailer floors.

And finally watch the wiring when you remove the old floor, unless you want to re-wire, which I usually did anyway, be carefull not to pull the old connectors apart.

Not to be sexist but I'm female and dont work in construction and I still managed it. Fun way to spend a weekend I dont think.

 

[Tilda]

Wow thank you Rockysmum that's fantastic advice! Weight is not too much of an issue as for the most part I will be towing with our defender. My husband has taken the floor out and he is happy with the metal work and also has lots of welding experience from doing up landrovers. Can you recall approximately the flooring cost you? Just so we can get a vague idea would be useful. Thanks again I will make sure my OH follows your advice x

 

[Splish & Masons mum]

Probably not hugely helpful but...
Having had a member of our riding club arrive 3 weeks ago at camp with her horses foot having gone through the wooden floor of his trailer (3 years old, but not a Rice, anyway) and getting spirited off to Newmarket for surgery and joint flushing, and still being in there now, I would never go for a wooden floor if I could possibly avoid it. Could you put an aluminium one in? I'm not sure if this is even possible - but would be my preferred option, again, no idea on costs...

 

[hayinamanger]

I haven't done one for a while but I had a few old Rice trailers over the years.

First thing to consider is weight, I never had to worry about that as my vehicle was well up to the job. If weight is a consideration you might need to speak to Rice Richardson and look at some of the modern floors.

If not then I recommend ordinary tongue and groove floorboarding running front to back, I then added a layer of ply which adds strength and stops the floor springing. Because I really didn't need to worry about weight I then added rubber matting. You can get good quality recycled wood from the second hand timber yards, the matting was the cheapest thinnest stable mats off ebay which were a third of the price of the light trailer matting but again added weight.

The first time I did this I took advice, the metal supports on old Rice floors are too far apart for it to be a good idea to just use ply, it needs the support of the floorboards.

The only real difficulties I found were grinding out the old bolts and getting the ramp spring fastened back in the right place. Not rocket science but hard work, especially the grinding.

While the floor is out get someone to check the metal frame, its really cheap to get some welding done if necessary when the floor is out. The bits I found needed strengthening were around where the axles are mounted. Personally I had a couple of extra bits of angle iron to reduce the distance between the supports but that was probably overkill.

I bolted the floorboarding onto the chassis as it forms part of the strength of the whole trailer. However I fastened the ply down so it could be easily lifted to check the floor condition on a regular basis. But I have always being a little paranoid about trailer floors.

And finally watch the wiring when you remove the old floor, unless you want to re-wire, which I usually did anyway, be carefull not to pull the old connectors apart.

Not to be sexist but I'm female and dont work in construction and I still managed it. Fun way to spend a weekend I dont think.

Respect

 

[Tilda]

Splish & Masons mum I think it is possible but probably very expensive but I will look into it. The floor of the trailer we bought was actually not bad but we decided to replace it for the simple reason that we know it can definitely take the weight and is in perfect condition as you do hear all sorts of horror stories. Also my mare who will usually be the only occupant is only just over 400kg so is pretty lightweight x

 

[perfect11s]

Dont use standard or marine ply it will rot very quickly and isnt safe!!!! best and safest is phenol ply its the stuff lorry floors and heavy duty trailers are made with its like a redish brown very strong and will stand up to wear and wet conditions.. timber places can order it and it comes in 8x4 sheets verious thicknesses but I would use 17mm 3/4" make sure you paint any edges if you cut it to seal it,, Hope that helps......

 

[Tilda]

That's great perfect 11s my husband has asked for a quote on something called buffalo board which sounds very similar to what you describe. Gosh its a mine field but hopefully we'll get something sorted soon as I want to use it on the 21st!

 

[rockysmum]

Wow thank you Rockysmum that's fantastic advice! Weight is not too much of an issue as for the most part I will be towing with our defender. My husband has taken the floor out and he is happy with the metal work and also has lots of welding experience from doing up landrovers. Can you recall approximately the flooring cost you? Just so we can get a vague idea would be useful. Thanks again I will make sure my OH follows your advice x

Sorry its been a few years since I last did it. I think I paid about £60 for the recycled floorboarding, which was actually far better quality than the new stuff. As for the ply I didn't actually buy the best, I know what I'm like and tended to pull it up and put new down "just in case" on a regular basis.

I currently have a nearly new 510 with an aluminium floor, which might be better for all sorts of reasons. I have to say that even though its checked regularly I always felt better about the floors I did myself.

 

[perfect11s]

That's great perfect 11s my husband has asked for a quote on something called buffalo board which sounds very similar to what you describe. Gosh its a mine field but hopefully we'll get something sorted soon as I want to use it on the 21st!

Yes I think that is one of many trade names for it another is Wisa if you google service metals they sell all sorts of stuff for the body building industy including this flooring .. you might get a better price as they bulk buy ...