Saddle Fitters - some general questions

Orchardbeck

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I know we have some really knowledgeable saddle fitters on here (and some experienced owners, so feel free to chip in) who offer great advice. I have had to try to learn more about fitting my older arab x mare which has brought up more questions in my head.

Some of these questions relate to my current saddle situation, some are hypothetical but it would be great if you could shed some light on these for me. Some are very basic too, please forgive me!

It's frustrating as often I don't think to ask certain things until after my saddle fitter has been out, and then I feel as though I'm bombarding them with calls for advice (they actually know it's me on the phone without me telling them now....embarrassing!). So...here goes:

1 If a horse is croup high, how do you address this through fitting - would the pommel need to be lifted some how? Or do you fit a shorter panel to avoid too much of an incline? And then if the pommel is higher, would this not put extra pressure at the back?

2 How can you tell if a saddle is a) rocking and b) rolling? And what action do they actually refer to?

3 How can you tell if a saddle is a) too wide, or b) too narrow

4 What would rubbing (hairs) behind the panels indicate? And what would rubbing in the centre of the back indicate?

5 Is it at all possible for an older horse to improve their topline, so much so as to go up a gullet size?

6 If a saddle is shimmed at the back (to combat lifting), will this cause more of a pressure point at the front?

7 If a sheepskin (or similar) pad is used, as an interim measure, would these disguise issues in any of the fitting issues mentioned above? Would you ever recommend disguising issues under some circumstances?

8 Can the horses' action cause problems in saddle fit - I know that large shoulders can cause problems, but what else could?

9 What kind of measure would you take to fit a dream saddle (ie may not be possible) for a horse that is croup and wither high, with a wide ribcage...aka a typical older Arab shape!

If you have got to the end of this, I sincerely thank you, and I think your job is fascinating.
 
Lots of questions and not easily answered I'm afraid - saddle fitting is more art than science so no definitive answers. I may get slapped wrists for promotion but here is a couple of articles I wrote a while back:

http://www.horsehero.com/editorial/?feat=73150

http://www.horsehero.com/editorial?feat=75069

On any horse whether croup high or not, if the saddle is in balance it spreads weight evenly. If a horse is croup high you may need a shallower rear panel than on a higher witherd low backed horse. You may go shorter in the seat size (highly likely). You may go flatter in the tree than you expect.

I would not shim at the back to stop lifting - lifting is caused by a tree that is too curved or too wide, and the last thing you really want to do for either of these is lift the back. You MIGHT pop a tiny shim at the back of the saddle (not the back help, a wedge right into that little gap at the back) and also possibly shim the front - imagine sitcking a wedge under both front and back of a rocking horse. The saddle must still be in balance with a shim pad.

And how do you tell if a saddle is in balance? The part of the seat with the least curve, the little flat spot at the deepest point, must be parallel to the ground. Now saddle balance can change with a rider up, so you need photos, or someone with a good eye, to reasses when the rider is up, and to know how the pommel, cantle and flap should look when the seat is hidden, so look well and learn the landmarks with no rider up. For instance a VSD that is too low in front will look more like a dressage or shoiwing saddle, too high in front and it will look more like a GP or jump saddle. Also of course the pommel and cantle will change in height in relation to each other.

Hope that helps.
 
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Thanks SBloom, great advice as always. I wish there could be textbook answers, but obviously this isn't the case. I'm going to have to get my camera out and post some pics of our current set up for comment, as long as you don't mind?
 
Fire away - girthed up firmly with no pad ideally, taken from side on showing the whole horse, then you can take some slightly more close ups - shots from the front need to show nearly the whole saddle so that we can see the tree angles (point pockets) against the horse's ribcage. If you search "saddlefitter"s blog you might find a guide on good photos for saddle fitting.
 
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