Shetland feeding ................advice please

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Moonlightdancer

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being new to keeping a shetland I would love a few ideas and advice on feeding.

My mare is 7yrs and has been out of work for the past 12 mts by her previous owner. I intend on putting her to harness but over the winter will be lunging and long reining a few times a week to bring her fitness back up.

The grazing is very good and being quite long and lush and still growing - I shall stable overnight.

She is a little podgy but fitness is more of an issue. She is unclipped and will remain so for the winter.

Thoughts ........................
 
Hay. It's unlikely she will need anything else.

However, if you are working her, she may benefit from a bib or apron clip, especially if she gets at all sweaty during work (due to the weather being so mild)
 
No feeding required, most (not all) shetlands live on thin air and a blade or so of grass.

You would only need to intro feed once working, only if pony needs more energy. We used to feed our team of driving sheltands only when in full work for trials, using straights most of the time.

That said, my mini gets 2 x feeds a day.... the equivalent of a desert spoonful of hi fi lite with 6 pony nuts on the top, with a slice of apple to garnish. This is ONLY due to the fact that mine get fed out in the field, and she needs to feel 'included' - keeps everyone happy :)
 
Nothing while out. While in, I would only give hay but keep an eye on her - if she starts putting on weight make sure you start soaking it. You could also look at getting in some hay from last year's crop. It will have less in it so more suitable for little fatties. The aim for most people who have fatties is to let them lose weight over winter so the spring grass doesn't immediately cause lami outbreaks. Consider muzzling if necessary as well while she is out of work.
 
IMO, good feed practice is the same, no matter size or breed. That means forage as the foundation of the diet (which grass/hay will supply in plenty - it's probably going to be about limiting intake to appropriate levels) and a decent vit&min supplement. Just because small good doers have lower calorie requirements doesn't mean that they don't have requirements for key nutrients (in proportion, of course). I'd probably feed a balancer or something like equi-bites (vit&mineral supplement in treat form) at levels appropriate for her weight. This is particularly important if you end up having to restrict her forage intake quite severely (old/soaked hay) to keep weight in check. Hay (particularly aged hay) is low in vitamins, and will loose vital nutrients after soaking along with the sugars/extra calories. Probably not as much an issue so long as you can give her access to grazing.
 
I have quite a few shets (20+) as have a small stud, and I'm going to buck the trend of most, and agree with supsup. Forage (hay/grass) definitely should make up 99% of the diet. But I do believe in giving a vit/min or a balancer each day to make sure they're getting a balanced diet. Almost all hays/grasses are deficient in something, so it's best to provide something to make up for that lack.

Our shetlands get a mix of chop, unmolassed sugarbeet, linseed & a vit/min supplement in varying quantities, depending on their needs. Even the breeding herd that live out get a feed plopped out in buckets in the field each day. I do also feed mycosorb, as we have issues with mycotoxins locally.
 
varkie said:
I have quite a few shets (20+) as have a small stud, and I'm going to buck the trend of most, and agree with supsup. Forage (hay/grass) definitely should make up 99% of the diet. But I do believe in giving a vit/min or a balancer each day to make sure they're getting a balanced diet. Almost all hays/grasses are deficient in something, so it's best to provide something to make up for that lack.

Our shetlands get a mix of chop, unmolassed sugarbeet, linseed & a vit/min supplement in varying quantities, depending on their needs. Even the breeding herd that live out get a feed plopped out in buckets in the field each day. I do also feed mycosorb, as we have issues with mycotoxins locally.
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I agree with Varkie. Its all good and well saying they will live on thin air - yes they will ‘live’ but if you want your pony to thrive and look the best he/she can then that comes from the inside out.
 
i ended up getting a special haynet with tiny holes that holds the correct amount of hay per day for a shettie, which i find really handy. she also gets a handful of balancer. Mine can't even see grass without exploding so she's kept on restricted grazing most of the time.
 
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