Soon to be Shetland owner - need some answers

[Sab1]

Hello all,
I have just joined and hope you can be of help and I can use the knowledge you all have!
We are getting a Shetland from a rescue soon and we haven't owned a pony before just rode for aprox 20 years (not done PC, no mucking out etc just rode).
Anyway as I've been looking and thinking things have come up. A few things I would like to know as follows:
1. Flies - At the fields where I am I saw a few flies bothering some horses yesterday so wondered what's best? Someone said feeding them garlic? Or fly spray? Or mask as in the net type over face or the tassels? Unsure which is generally better for the animal
Or more comfy/less intrusive but also what works best.
2. My big worry is laminitis. Muzzling seems a bit mean but is it the best way to control and if so how long would one leave on at a time? Someone told me a day on and a day off? Excuse my ignorance but can they not eat anything with it on?
3. Am I right in thinking weight bearing a stone per hand is fair? No one near that will be on them as my kids are 3 stone but wondered.
4. What's the best type of hard feed or what should I be feeding in winter?
5. Is there a standard girth size for a Shetland?

Thanks for your time x

 

[The Fuzzy Furry]

I think you would be best asking the rescue many of your questions, as they will be able to provide 1st hand assistance as they know the pony

 

[heebiejeebies]

1. Flies - At the fields where I am I saw a few flies bothering some horses yesterday so wondered what's best? Someone said feeding them garlic? Or fly spray? Or mask as in the net type over face or the tassels? Unsure which is generally better for the animal Or more comfy/less intrusive but also what works best.

Totally depends on the pony, some are bothered by flies others not so much. With shetlands being more prone to sweet-itch this is something you'll need to keep an eye out for. Sweet-itch is an allergic reaction to the saliva of flies/midge bites resulting in extreme itchiness, and the pony will most likely rub away their mane/tail/coat from excessive itching. But again, not ALL ponies will be affected by it. I find fly sprays a waste of money, so if the pony is going to be bothered by the flies buy a good fly rug. There is a website called Dinky Rugs which specialises in equipment for small ponies.


2. My big worry is laminitis. Muzzling seems a bit mean but is it the best way to control and if so how long would one leave on at a time? Someone told me a day on and a day off? Excuse my ignorance but can they not eat anything with it on?

Muzzling is not mean, it can be necessary to prevent laminits which is excruciatingly painful. Wouldn't you rather muzzle than have your pony suffer from laminits? Again this completely depends on what you are doing with the pony and how rich your grass is. I take my shetland out riding with my horse, she keeps up very well and gets good exercise - plus it's nice for her to be out and about and see things other than just her field - they get bored pretty easily. Exercise is key, why not take her out walks with you, or even out jogging with you?
If you are going to muzzle it's best to muzzle during the day when the grass is higher in sugar and take it off during the night. There is a hole in the bottom of the muzzle so they are able to eat and drink - it simply limits the amount of grass intake and encourages them to work harder for their food - meaning they burn more energy foraging.
Look out for rub marks with a muzzle, and ensure there are people on the yard keeping an eye on the horses during the day on the off chance your pony gets the muzzle caught in fencing/branches etc.


3. Am I right in thinking weight bearing a stone per hand is fair? No one near that will be on them as my kids are 3 stone but wondered.

Shetlands are the strongest breed out there and were bred to carry fully grown men up the hills to the mines. I am 5"4 and 11 stone and my 10.3 shetland carries me just fine. She is my sons pony, but I do ride her on occasion and we do lots of hillwork and fast work and she doesn't struggle to carry me in the slightest. If only we could look a little less ridiculous

4. What's the best type of hard feed or what should I be feeding in winter?

Avoid feeding shetlands any hard feed at all. They come from the harshest part of Scotland and quite literally live off fresh air. Their sole purpose is to find food where other breeds wouldn't. My shetland can be found munching away on something in the snow while my other horse goes without eating at all - it's a shetties prerogative to find food no matter where they are or what the conditions.
Good quality hay/haylage through the winter is more than adequate to avoid weight gain, and if you want to add vitamins/minerals to her diet then mix that through with a tiny handful of chaff based feed - no cereals. Ever. Horses are not designed to eat cereals, they only NEED forage, but that's a whole other argument which people on here love to have.

5. Is there a standard girth size for a Shetland?

They come in all different shapes and sizes so there is no one size fits all - simply measure her girth to get the size. I'm assuming you will be keeping her on a yard, so there will be plenty of people to help you out.

I don't want to sound cheeky but you don't sound as if you know what you are doing at all, so it's VERY important you have a network of knowledgeable people on hand to help you. Just because shetlands are small doesn't mean they are any easier to look after than a full sized horses - they are just as complex as any other breed.

 

[3OldPonies]

I don't want to sound cheeky but you don't sound as if you know what you are doing at all, so it's VERY important you have a network of knowledgeable people on hand to help you. Just because shetlands are small doesn't mean they are any easier to look after than a full sized horses - they are just as complex as any other breed.

Just wanted to re-iterate this. So many shetlands end up as rescues because people treat them as 'little naughty cuties' when in fact they need to be treated as any other horse or pony and being so cheeky and clever may even need a firmer hand.

I think you are right to be asking questions about the best way to keep them and well done for asking, it can be a difficult thing to do.

I would assume the charity has done a home check before saying you can have them, because one of the most important things in managing laminitis is to have a stable or shelter that can be bedded down thickly just in case the dreaded lami strikes. Shetties can be extremely adept at removing or eating out of the side of muzzles and you'll need to have a stable available in case you need to take them off the grass pronto! I'm not saying that they will get lami, but if they do you need to be prepared and be able to act very quickly.

Do take care that you have fencing low enough to keep them in. They will be little escape artists given half a chance. You may need electric fencing with multiple low strands to stop them stepping through it - even then they'll be bound to manage it at some point - they've very good at working out if the fence is turned on, has a weak current or turned off. Plain wire fencing will need re-inforcing with an electric fence in case they stretch the wire and walk out, and if you have post and rail, make sure they can't get under the bottom rail. Electric fencing is also essential for strip grazing and the creation of 'pudding paddocks', for little fatties needing to have their grazing restricted.

With regard to feed - basically don't! They might appreciate a handful of dampened non-molassed chaff if you are feeding other horses and the shetties are present, just to make them think they've had a feed with the others. You'll probably need some extra soaked hay in the winter when the grass is poor and that will be about it in terms of feed.

Tack needs to fit properly just like with any other equine, so if you're at all unsure, get a local saddler to come and do some measuring. The ponies won't thank you if the saddle is making them sore, the girth is too short and the bit is banging their teeth because the cheekpieces are too long.

Also, get a local farrier on board before they arrive. Good farriery will make all the difference to lami prone feet and he/she will also be able to advise on management to keep their feet healthy. Be aware though that not all farriers will take shetlands as clients so do tell them when you're looking around that it is shetlands you want them to see.

Not only a farrier, but make sure you know who your local equine vets are. The charity may take care of routine stuff for you, depending on the arrangement you have with them. But in an emergency you might not be able to wait to make contact with them before treatment is required.

Last thing - I promise (this is getting to be longer than I thought) - don't let anyone spoil them with lots of sweeties and treats, it's the quickest way I know to end up with a badly behaved, biting, snapping and stroppy shetland.

 

[Apercrumbie]

See how the pony reacts to the flies. He may be absolutely fine or you may need to rug him (dinky rugs do a good mini fly rug). Fly spray doesn't last long enough to be effective, whatever it says on the bottle.

You are right to be worried about laminitis. If you want him to be out in a decent sized field with other horses, chances are you will have to muzzle him. Again, dinky rugs do a nice little muzzle that is good for not rubbing. Unfortunately mine has to have his on 24/7 in summer. Not nice I know, but far better than laminitis. If you don't want to muzzle, he will need to be in a small paddock with very little grass. Monitor his weight like a hawk - it's probably a good idea to weigh tape him weekly so you can catch any changes quickly. Also, have a very good feel regularly. My mini often doesn't look that overweight. However when you really look closely and feel him all over, it becomes clear that actually he is. You should be able to feel his ribs relatively easily. He should also be free from fat pads.

Don't worry about carrying too much weight - shetlands are hardy little things and I imagine he is unlikely to have an adult on him for long?

NO HARD FEED!! Shetlands really need to drop weight over winter so you stand a chance of them not getting laminitis in spring/summer. If you really, really think he needs a mineral balancer (which for a shetland is totally unnecessary IMO, they are designed to get the most out of extremely poor grass, let alone the stuff we graze them on) and feed appropriate amounts in a molasses free chaff, again only if you really really think it's necessary. Haylage is far richer than hay, what is best for shetlands in winter is course hay that takes longer to chew. They don't need very much either! It is far better to feed him too little than too much. Whatever happens, do not let him come out of winter podgy - you will be fighting a losing battle for the rest of the summer. I would also seriously limit treats - they are all full of sugar and encourage nipping. I know it's less fun for the kids, but probably necessary.

Can't help with the girth as I don't ride mine.

Make sure you have a good vet and farrier who can advise you on laminitis. Also make sure you have access to a stable as if he does get it he will need to be on box rest.

I know it may seem that I am being quite harsh and cautious on the weight battle, but I cannot overemphasise how important it is to stay on top of it. It's no problem if you over do it and he drops too much weight because he can put it back on again very quickly. With natives, it is always better to be safe than sorry.


(I promise I don't work for dinky rugs, I just have a laminitic prone mini shetland with sweet itch)

 

[Equi]

I keep mine in at night with small amount of hay and out on a bare paddock through summer. Never had lami.

 

[Apercrumbie]

I keep mine in at night with small amount of hay and out on a bare paddock through summer. Never had lami.

Another good solution if you want to avoid muzzling. Just so you know, our vet says that when he comes in at night he can have 1/2 section of hay in a small holed net. It's so little, but then they are very little.