Spreading rotted manure back onto fields - how do I spread it?!

HappyNeds

Well-Known Member
Joined
8 May 2010
Messages
272
Visit site
For those of you with your own fields, if you don't have a tractor, how do you do this?

We've read a lot about the improvement to hay yield and general pasture by spreading rotted manure back onto the resting parts of the fields in autumn, and we've got a lovely muck heap rotting away ready!

But - our field is not huge, and we don't own a tractor, we wanted to be able to do this small-scale somehow. How do you do it?

We've seen on the internet a cute little quad-tow-along muck spreader but only for sale in USA (and v expensive!). Is there something that could be pushed/pulled by hand that would do it? I know it would mean a lot of manual work, but we don't mind that, just wondered what ideas might be out there, what others have already tried and found worked?

Thank you for reading! :)
 

amandap

Well-Known Member
Joined
23 June 2009
Messages
6,949
Visit site
Same here, I pay a local farmer but it does cost more than a few bob for me as I have my current heap moved and the old rotted spread. The rotted heap requires a JCB to fill the spreader. 80 Euro last time for nearly a days work.
 

Monkers

Well-Known Member
Joined
21 May 2005
Messages
417
Visit site
To be honest, I wouldn't do it if the muck heap is made of horse manure and it's going on to grazing used by horses.
My heap was 20 years old and I thought any parasitic worm eggs present would have rotted away. All my horses had had a zero count for years. After I spread the heap, there was a sudden presence of eggs when I had the horse's worm counts done.

It didn't really improve the pasture significantly anyway and took ages to disappear into the ground.

Never again!
 

thatsmygirl

Well-Known Member
Joined
22 May 2010
Messages
4,341
Visit site
I won't do it either for the reason above. All horses will have a certain amount off worm eggs and don't like the idea off chucking the poo back over my field. Not for me I'm afraid
 

Kaylum

Well-Known Member
Joined
29 May 2010
Messages
5,476
Visit site
You should not muck spread as it makes it too rich for horse grazing. Do a bit of research and you will see how to look after your meadow and make it correct for horse grazing. As well as the worming aspect described above.
 

amandap

Well-Known Member
Joined
23 June 2009
Messages
6,949
Visit site
I believe it takes around 50 years to become true meadow. I'm on reclaimed bog. I spread one field because when I had the soil tested there was nil humus in it. The cattle are in slatted sheds over winter here so only toxic slurry available from elsewhere which has no humus content.

ps. It's all very well trying to create a meadow but meadows are not designed to be heavily grazed, you need plenty of meadow land for rotation. Just leaving rye grass will cause it to be stressed and therefore higher in sugars.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

lachlanandmarcus

Well-Known Member
Joined
29 November 2007
Messages
5,762
Location
Cairngorms!
Visit site
I only spread it onto ungrazed hay fields not the horse grazing fields. It rots for 2 years before I do even that. I wouldnt put anything except very well rotted stuff onto horse fields and even then I would rest it for 6 months plus after. It shouldnt be too rich as horse manure is pretty thin in nutrients, and is just replacing what was there before the horse ate it.....its the worms that are more of a risk.

We have a spreader (an old Bamford) which does not need a tractor to tow it as it is 'wheel driven' BUT you still need a tractor to fill it! as muck is very heavy and you do need something powerful to tow it (we use an old Landrover) due to the weight. Also this wheel driven type need the muck to be very well rotted, no lumps of straw, needs to be mostly well rotted poop.

So....without tractor I think you need to get someone in who has a tractor and spreader...sorry :-(

Or....do as the Amish do and have a horse drawn one, great excuse to buy a shire or clydie :)))
 
Top