Tell me about draw reins

[CobsGalore]

A very experienced lady at my yard uses draw reins on occasion with her horses. Both compete at advanced level and go correctly without the draw reins, so why use them?

I'm not really 'for' or 'against' them, and I am sure they don't do any harm in experienced hands, but I just wondered why people use them? (Experienced riders, not those who just use them to crank their horses nose in)

Can anyone fill me in?

 

[Dumbo]

Everyone at my yard uses them and always tell me I should too.
They use them to help build up neck muscle and encourage an outline. Personally I am against them - just add to the pressure on the bars of the mouth and horse's being the tolerant creatures they are put up with it.. except the few that rear due to the restriction!
Not a kind gadget at all IMO.

 

[Spring Feather]

Okay I've been searching for this piece and have finally found it. This is a piece (written many years ago by Karl Mikolka) which helped me make a good deal of sense out of why draw reins are not necessarily the evil many people believe. I've had to copy it in two parts as there is a limit on the amount of characters per post on HHO.

"
A Few thoughts about draw reins

Before we venture into a detailed discussion about the benefits or disadvantages of draw reins, let's explore the question: Why draw reins at all?
To establish a generality, draw reins should only be used as a backup rather than a replacement for the gymnastic training necessary for achieving suppleness, submissiveness, balance and throughness. Since these milestones of proper training are best accomplished by selecting the right combination of ring figures, forward riding, bending in motion, engaging, half halting and countless transitions in proper balance, one should never hope to achieve the same solely through the use of draw reins.

The subject of draw reins and their value in the training of the horse has been dividing the equestrian world for centuries. Certain Masters of the past regarded draw reins as a useful means in achieving the highest level of 'throughness', while others opposed their use entirely, even on difficult horses.

In recent times the question of draw reins is often defended by professionals as being helpful in cutting down considerably the training time and getting difficult horses quicker on the bit and up through the levels. It has been proven that draw reins in sensitive hands are effective tools when smartly used as a support rather than applied as a forceful gadget for pressing the horse's head into a certain form.

Experts in theory - as they are wont to call themselves - and Puritans who defend the orthodox approach toward training often disagree in the use of draw reins, no matter what the excuse. They are quick to quote the late Col. Podhaisky who was heard saying on more than one account: "In the wrong hands, draw reins are as dangerous as razorblades in the hand of a monkey" A potentially insulting maxim in itself, considering all the animal rights groups nowadays who might immediately protest such an insinuation.

Some Facts About Draw Reins

As with all things in human life, there is a good side and a bad side when it comes to managing draw reins. After all, it is not the draw rein which does the damage or the fixing, it is the person behind the draw rein, the rider himself. Considering the imperfection of human nature it is easy to understand how controversial an issue such as the dispute over draw reins can become and how quickly those who see merit in using them are, at the same time, immediately regarded as incompetent in their application.

It is almost like saying:" If you merely think of working with draw reins you are automatically admitting that you know nothing about their manipulation." A somewhat over simplification of the situation.

The Truth About Draw Reins

The mere term draw rein brings to mind of the sensitive soul a device which uses force as a means to an end. Like a draw bridge lifted by force, force is used to pull a horse's head down. Granted this can easily happen, especially when inexperience dominates. The philosophy of the Old School stressed first and foremost 'throughness' rather than insisting on a certain head set. How the horse placed its head was secondary to throughness, although the degree of throughness affected the horse's head carriage. 'Throughness 'or Durchlässigkeit is a condition which includes and afects the entire body and being of the horse, not only a small part of it. All too often the term 'on-the-bit' is attributed to a certain head set - roughly two fingers in front of the vertical - while in reality 'on-the-bit' mainly describes the condition of a completely relaxed horse accepting the rider's aids without arguments. In the Old School, 'on-the-bit' was the result of throughoess and throughness was the product of the highest level of suppleness, submissiveness, balance and relaxation. No draw reins, even those made of gold, can replace the work toward throughness, although sometimes they can be quite helpful in achieving it.

As I mentioned before, one of the great dangers of riding with draw reins lies in the false assumption they can replace suppleness, balance and submissiveness, providing a short cut of some sort. Unfortunately, they can not. One can never compensate for the lack of throughness by solely relying on draw reins. Modern day horsemen unfortunately tend to do just that and create horses which carry their heads far too low and too close to their chests. This is highly detrimental for establishing true throughness, a stage where the horse offers no resistance either from the front to the rear or from the rear to the front. The rider's signals are accepted without delay or blockage. The horse becomes an extension of its rider. Whenever a draw rein is used to coerce an improper headset, its merit is lost and its application academically wrong.

Any one part of the horse which is singled out and worked without paying attention to the whole of the body will at best lead to a pitiful caricature of an animal exposed to human ignorance but never to an art form. That's the main reason why all the anti-draw rein supporters warn against the utilization of draw reins. And in this respect they are absolutely right.

What About Using Draw Reins Correctly?

That, according to the Old Masters requires some level of experience. Under Podhajsky, any manipulation of draw reins was limited to the Chief Rider and Podhajsky himself. Various historical treatises on the subject suggest that draw reins should only act as a certain boundary on a horse's head carriage. They advise using the draw rein as an auxiliary rein only when the horse is about to overstep this boundary line, while the rest of the time the draw reins should remain slack. I personally do not agree with this recommendation simply because experience tells us that it is rather difficult, if not impossible to apply a smooth, non-offending rein aid quickly and precisely with a rein not in continual elastic contact with the horse's mouth.

Before riding with draw reins, it will be indispensable for the rider to have developed a steady, independent seat, the base for a relaxed and sensitive hand. The effectiveness of the draw reins depends entirely on that good hand. The good hand has several qualifications which must be practiced off the horse as well as on the horse to the degree that they become second nature. In developing such a hand, the rider would do well to keep the following points in mind:
The thumb is the only part of the fist which exerts a strong pressure on the rein which rests on the second joint of the index finger. The middle finger ring finger and pinky are turned towards the palm of the hand in such a way that there is a little room left between the finger tips and the palm of the hand. Some people refer to this fist as 'bird fist', firm enough to prevent a bird from escaping but soft enough not to crush him. The wrists as well as the muscles along the lower arm must remain completely relaxed without allowing the thumbs to weaken their pressure, resulting in losing control over the reins.

To keep the wrists relaxed, the thumbs firm but the lower arm muscles free of tension and stiffness is at first difficult. I advise practicing these procedures while sitting in front of the TV or while taking a bath. The feeling of a correctly working hand has to be secured first off the horse, then reestablished on the horse.

It is all too tempting to tighten up the wrong parts of the hand such as wrists, fists, arm and shoulder muscles, especially when the horse starts moving. It is furthermore easy to forget to keep the thumb firm and the rest of the hand light and sensitive. Developing this good hand before working with draw reins will make the difference and can not be emphasized enough.

Variations On a Theme

There are numerous opinions on how the draw reins themselves should be adjusted. Some riders prefer attaching draw reins to the bottom of the girth and run them between the horse's front legs, over the horse's chest to the snaffle rings. This method can bring about good results temporarily. In the long run though, it entices the horse to lower its head too much and to drop its neck too low thus creating an image of an animal getting ready to perform a head stand. When confirmed, it will hinder the rider from using the natural leverage of the neck, head and shoulders, which otherwise would provide a means of shifting more weight occasionally towards the hind legs in preparation for good collection.

Other riders prefer to adjust the draw reins like side reins: through the left or the right side of the girth and through the snaffle rings from the inside out. This arrangement is the most common one. The rider holds two reins in his hands, the reins of the snaffle, divided through ring and little finger, the draw rein around the little finger; through the fist to the index finger where the thumbs hold both reins firm. A number of riders choose to divide the draw rein by the ring and middle finger. How the reins are held is not as important as how the rider's hands function. My extensive clinic travels reveal that most riders do not pay attention to or are even aware of their hands and stiff wrists. This phenomenon combined with weak thumbs, tight fists, rigid arm and shoulder muscles with elbows sticking out are quite wide spread.

 

[Spring Feather]

Based upon my education it is my belief, that using draw reins on the same bit which holds the snaffle reins has only limited possibilities. Two pair of reins working the same bit? How can we expect the horse to understand the different meanings of snaffle versus draw rein? In my experience, which is also backed by the thinking of the Old Masters (see Seeger), it is much more beneficial if the rider works the horse Auf Doppeltrense with a double snaffle whenever draw reins must be used. For that purpose, a somewhat thinner snaffle, similar to the one used in conjunction with a curb bit is a good choice. This second snaffle is attached to a separate cheek-strap and is put on the horse first, while the normal - or 'true'snaffle is placed over it. The first or thinner snaffle is therefore closer to the rider, the 'true'snaffle a little further away. The draw reins are attached to the right and left hand side of the girth and run from the inside out, through the rings of the thinner, or second snaffle. Each hand holds two reins, the snaffle rein and the draw rein. With this set up the rider has a multitude of combinations available when 'playing' the true bit against the draw rein bit. It also has the added benefit of exposing the horse to carrying two bits in anticipation of the curb and snaffle work later.

Preparing the horse with the true snaffle and following through with the draw reins is the hallmark of this type of work. For example: the true snaffle is responsible for keeping the horse's neck and jaw soft and relaxed (lateral flexion) while at the same time the second snaffle, attached to the draw reins, is accountable for keeping the poll of the horse supple (longitudinal flexion). As long as the poll of the horse is allowed to remain stiff - an all too common occurrence - no horse can be consistently on the bit. Relaxing the poll area is mandatory for accepting the double bridle later. For that reason, the most important by- product of all work with draw reins, no matter how they are attached, must be the relaxation of the poll area. The success of draw rein work depends greatly on:

The quality of the rider's seat
The quality of the rider's hands
The ability of the rider to support each rein aid with well timed leg and seat aids. The legs support the 'true' snaffle in its task of keeping the neck and the jaw flexible, while the seat (weight of the rider) more supports the draw reins in keeping the poll of the horse supple. Always remember: a soft poll is the key to successful double bridle training.

Horses With Special Needs

Over the years I have had the opportunity to ride a wide variety of horses, horses of different breeds and horses with different problems. I discovered that horses with parrot mouth for instance, respond better to draw reins when they are attached to the girth under the belly and run between the front legs through a strap which connects the right and the left snaffle ring, almost acting like a very lose chin strap, to the rider's hands. This method can also be used with one snaffie bit when working a neck which is rather short and muscular and with a double snaffle when confronted with a neck resembling a swan.

Such a set up protects the delicate parrot mouth from all too strong pressures, guarantees quick relaxation of the poll and encourages the acceptance of the bit with confidence and trust. Working in that order, it becomes clear that the snaffle reins are free to influence and improve the relaxation of the neck muscles while the draw reins, almost acting as a running martingale, influence the flexing of the poll.

Other variations include: riding with only one draw rein. There are numerous horses which feel entrapped and claustrophobic when ridden with two draw reins. Their tenseness increases sharply due to feeling uncomfortable. So WHY- I ask- insist on two draw reins when they only make matters worse? Col. Podhajsky always stressed the need to develop into a 'thinking rider' That includes the one who never chooses a procedure which makes the horse unhappy or uncomfortable - (not to be confused with challenging the thinking of a horse).

The single draw rein can be attached either to the left or the right side of the girth. From there it runs into the same snaffle ring on which the bridle reins are hooked. From the left side it is passed through the left snaffle ring and when attached to the right side of the girth, it passes through the right snaffle ring. Here I would like to point out that only one snaffle is used when working the horse with one draw rein. The draw rein supports either the right or the left snaffle rein, both acting on the same mouthpiece. The rider works with two reins in one hand and one rein in the other - that which carries the crop. Working with two reins in one hand and only one rein in the other offers an excellent opportunity for the rider to experience the important- but often forgotten - counter-function of the outside rein. The two reins in one hand should never overpower the single rein, be it on the outside or the inside of the work direction.

If the horse has a pronounced stiff side, it is then advisable to put the draw rein on the softer side first. The horse needs a few days to get acquainted with this 'rigging.' Like water which follows the path of the least resistance, the rider should do the same. As soon as the horse is confident with this set up then the draw rein can be used on the stiffer side where it will be of great usefulness.

A few horses which develop the habit of falling on a shoulder every time they are asked to flex, benefit from a diagonal adjustment of the single draw rein. For example, a horse which drops or falls on its left shoulder every time it is required to bend right will be assisted in maintaining a better balance when the single draw rein is attached from the left side of the girth, underneath the neck, diagonally into the right snaffle ring. The draw rein when used for bending guards the diagonal shoulder at the same time. A draw rein used in that manner can also be quite helpful in preventing the horse from falling on his outside shoulder; as often occurs in the early stages of shoulder-in training.

The most challenging combination in addition to all previously mentioned is that of a cavesson and draw reins, a chapter; which goes beyond the scope of this study. This type of work requires a great amount of experience and is definitely not recommended for the average rider. Ignorance and inexperience invite accidents. Moreover; the horse must have developed a very high level of submissiveness before it can be expected to accept the cavesson without potential harm to its rider or itself. The cavesson-draw rein technique was preferred by the Old Masters who, granted,had much more time than we do to meet the needs of their horses. Times may change, but horses do not, and this combination still remains the best preparation for the work on the double bridle.

© Karl Mikolka 1998"

 

[ZondaR]

I haven't read SF's reply because I haven't the time at the moment but I will later so my reply is based on the OP's enquiry only.

I use draw reins on my horse and I find them excellent. I am retraining him as he has never learned the correct way to carry himself and now, at 16, he has started having back problems. He is very strong willed and does not soften or submit to the rein easily. I use draw reins as a strong martingale, ie, to stop his head getting above the point of control. So, when he tries to carry his head too high the draw reins come into effect. When he relaxes and softens, the draw reins go loose and he is working off the snaffle rein only. He is slowly learning that it is nicer to stretch his top line. He is not a horse that can be forced into anything, he has to be firmly cajoled and he responds well to draw reins. Not only has his flat work improved, his jumping and confidence has improved too.

I don't use them all the time but I would do once a week. He makes me work hard for anything I get from him and the draw reins remind him that I'm in charge. He doesn't resist as much as he used to when I started using them but he does need the reminder of them from time to time because he is always testing the boundaries.

 

[tallyho!]

Personally, I think they are for lazy people who can't ride properly .

 

[Tnavas]

Personally, I think they are for lazy people who can't ride properly .

Agree - do you think we'd better duck and run for cover?

If you have to use something, a Market Harborough is similar but you do also have to work as it has a limitation.

 

[tallyho!]

Agree - do you think we'd better duck and run for cover?

Could do... tin hat or carbon fibre??

 

[CobsGalore]

Thanks, some interesting opinions! I just wonder why some people decide to use them, when clearly they can ride and it doesn't appear to me like the horse benefits from them.

 

[Wagtail]

I agree with Tally Ho and Tnavas. The only horse here that had been repeatedly worked in draw reins now has arthritis of the neck and has had to retire. He finds it uncomfortable even stretching down for his feed. He's a big strong WB, and the type that was not easy with a huge movement. I guess the temptation to take the easy way with him was too much. I do blame draw reins for his neck problems.

 

[Wagtail]

I would like to add that there are some people who are skilled enough to use draw reins correctly and in a way that does not damage the horse. However, the potential for damage by even quite experienced riders is just far too great IMO. And those riders that are truly able to use them properly and effectively, really shouldn't need them at all.

 

[tallyho!]

I also saw the sad deterioration of a horse who was ridden in DR's constantly... not my reason for hating them so much... More the fact that its just poor horsemanship.

If someone can "clearly ride" then, one has to ask 'according to whom?"...

Anyone can sit on a horse and crane it's neck in with a leather strap or six...

 

[elijahasgal]

I used draw reins very short term with one horse.
She had been ridden by someone who caught he mouth regually in transitions, and added to that, she was in a very thin wire mouth bit

So first I put her in a waterford, but she very defensivly and understandably threw her head in transitions, nearly hitting you in the face. I used it fairly loosely, so it would on come into contact when her head went high, and within two weeks she understood, and they were discarded.

I am not one for artificial aids, dont even like flash nosebands much, but I would say never say never but very very cautiously, and selectivly, and short term

 

[VioletStripe]

Anyone can sit on a horse and crane it's neck in with a leather strap or six...

This.

However, I do agree their use on the lunge, which many of the CR-ers on here have called the 'Kerilli lungeing method'.
Other than that, if they're being used merely to force the horse's head down 'into an outline' then I do not agree at all.

 

[tallyho!]

Sadly VS... that is most commonly what I have seen, and not just DRs but all sorts of gadgetry loosely based on them... so many these days I have lost count.

Horses trundling along on the forehand, so downhill they may as well have shovels on their foreheads, whilst their back legs float about in the air behind them. What makes me laugh is the riders mainly look so serious as if they know what they are doing.

A bit like these...

Compared to what proper, patient, slow and correct training can achieve...

But not many people have the patience these days to wait for muscles to actually build and develop properly. A horse HAS to have done amazing by the age of 4 or it's a failure...

Ah well, such is the life of a competition horse.

 

[A Musing]

Yep I'm not a fan. Seen too many people hauling in the horses head and neck and forgetting the back end. Girl I know happily bombs around the school in them in canter, with her horse on the forehand. Maybe in the right hands, right circs., but too many people don't have the skill I think.

 

[Nightmare before Christmas]

I use them to encorage horses to work low. I dont have them tight the idea is they are lose and the horse works down into a contact. I sometimes use them for various jumping exercises and in warm ups too for the same reason, working the back. Nothing really to do with the neck/outline!!

 

[tallyho!]

I use them to encorage horses to work low. I dont have them tight the idea is they are lose and the horse works down into a contact. I sometimes use them for various jumping exercises and in warm ups too for the same reason, working the back. Nothing really to do with the neck/outline!!

Thats refreshing!

 

[DabDab]

I use them to encorage horses to work low. I dont have them tight the idea is they are lose and the horse works down into a contact. I sometimes use them for various jumping exercises and in warm ups too for the same reason, working the back. Nothing really to do with the neck/outline!!

This is the most effective way in which I have seen draw reins used - for particular schooling exercises (usually by show jumpers). I haven't ever, and don't think I would ever use them personally because I don't really feel the need. Unfortunately any piece of equipment like draw reins will always be attractive to those who are a little bit lazy or are looking for a quick fix. And because very few lazy/quick fix people will ever use that equipment with the delicacy and sensitivity that is required it gives the equipment itself a bad name.
To answer your question op: I don't know why someone would use them for schooling on the flat if their horse goes well without them, particularly if they are schooling in the same way as they would do without them.

 

[VioletStripe]

Sadly VS... that is most commonly what I have seen, and not just DRs but all sorts of gadgetry loosely based on them... so many these days I have lost count.

Horses trundling along on the forehand, so downhill they may as well have shovels on their foreheads, whilst their back legs float about in the air behind them. What makes me laugh is the riders mainly look so serious as if they know what they are doing.

.....But not many people have the patience these days to wait for muscles to actually build and develop properly. A horse HAS to have done amazing by the age of 4 or it's a failure...

Ah well, such is the life of a competition horse.

This exactly. Listening to some people I used to ride with 'He can go round, and doesn't even need a bungee!'
It's only really now that my just turned 6yo is getting a consistent 'outline', I was much more worried about the quality of his paces and using his back end (compact little horse with the idea that tearing away at the ground and going at break neck speed is blatantly more fun. He's bog Irish though, he can be forgiven ) than his head position, and it's now just all falling together nicely, I actually feel he's mentally and physically there to start doing more of it properly.
Well, sometimes mentally, yesterday he demonstrated a lovely dragon impression when we came across a truly terrifying bucket out hacking

A few at my local RS just aren't taught the ins and outs of how to get the horse working properly, which frankly I think should be taught once they get up to the sort of level they are, as opposed to, 'Well, the head looks pretty down, so hold your reins down by the pommel, almost into your crotch and the horse will go down, and there's the head, now sit back and jog along like that.'

 

[Pale Rider]

Draw reins, bin them or get out of horses and do something else.

 

[Charmin]

I must admit to using draw reins on a horse that used to rear out hacking.

Just come back from a tendon injury and owner was a firm advocate of road work being brilliant for strengthening legs. We did several weeks walking on the roads in straight lines to aid recovery. He was ridden at walk for a few miles everyday. However he'd been on box rest for several months and was very fresh, was very sharp anyway so it was a nightmare.

Draw reins gave us the ability to go 'no, please don't' if his head came up to a dangerous level and he threatened to go up. It came into work when his front legs started leaving the ground, and I have to say I found them great.

Standing martingale may well have worked, but he would have had to have been strapped down tighter whereas the draw reins gave us the ability to give him freedom if he was pootling along nicely, but gather him up as soon as he got tense and argumentative. He was never schooled with them and his tendon recovered nicely, he's now back out eventing!

I think it's perhaps the only time I'd use them myself...

 

[khalswitz]

I have found draw reins immeasurably useful when retraining horses and encouraging them to go long and low to begin stretching the back - NOT for creating an 'outline'. Some horses, if they have had back problems, ill fitting saddles, or else like racehorses have learned to go like giraffes and all their muscling is wrong, need a little more help to lower the head than just riding up into the bridle. This is where draw reins/market harborough comes in (although draw reins are much quicker released and adjusted than a MH). I only use them for short periods, alongside correct lunging with long side reins to encourage long and low, to essentially show the horse that it CAN stretch. However, if you don't need draw reins for something like this (ie your horse has been well schooled from the beginning) then DONT use them, as it is too easy to just over shorten and end up cramping your poor horse's neck up.

 

[Nancykitt]

When we first got my boy he had a real upside-down neck and I don't mind admitting that I'm not a good enough rider (even with the help of my instructor!) to sort it out just through riding, so the use of draw reins was out of the question. What we have done is to work at building his topline through lungeing - first in a Pessoa, but we now have an Equi-ami - and after some considerable time we can now see the results. It was also about doing very, very basic schooling stuff, transitions and circles, to encourage that bend and suppleness, but my goodness it's taken ages!


I can see that a very good rider would be able to use draw reins skilfully but I fear that some see it as a very quick fix to get the head down - with the result that some of these horses, as seen above, are very much on the forehand.

 

[Marydoll]

Theyre great for tying between two drainpipes to dry rugs

 

[LittleRooketRider]

I think extensive use of draw reins is wrong....but that occasional use of the draw reins can be very beneficial.

For instance, i was advised to use them for a lesson by my instructor. there were two reasons for this.
1) My pony is as stubborn and as easily distracted as they and she wanted to see if she was capable of working in an outline (which we discovered she was and with very little application of the draw reins)

2) If she wasn't understanding the aids. i could enforce them with the draw reins and thus she would learn what i was asking for as she was rewarded for doing so.

Since then i have not used them and although her flatwork is not yet perfect, but that one session has acted as a spring board for myself and my pony.

 

[LittleRooketRider]

I have found draw reins immeasurably useful when retraining horses and encouraging them to go long and low to begin stretching the back - NOT for creating an 'outline'. Some horses, if they have had back problems, ill fitting saddles, or else like racehorses have learned to go like giraffes and all their muscling is wrong, need a little more help to lower the head than just riding up into the bridle. This is where draw reins/market harborough comes in (although draw reins are much quicker released and adjusted than a MH). I only use them for short periods, alongside correct lunging with long side reins to encourage long and low, to essentially show the horse that it CAN stretch. However, if you don't need draw reins for something like this (ie your horse has been well schooled from the beginning) then DONT use them, as it is too easy to just over shorten and end up cramping your poor horse's neck up.

Ues we lightly used them on my TB mare to encourage long and low. this work was alongside lungeing in a pessoa to encourage the same thing.

 

[quirky]

Useful in the short term, I wouldn't (and haven't) used them in the long term.

I used when the school at the yard was mega deep and the pony was just ploughing through it using her front end and pretty much forgetting she had a back end. I used them to get her to use her behind and come off her forehand as she was young and I didn't want her learning that this was the correct way of going.

This wasn't a sustainable way of riding, so I moved yards for a better surface and the draw reins haven't been used since

 

[DabDab]

Theyre great for tying between two drainpipes to dry rugs

nice tip!
I would have to strongly disagree that any ex racer would benefit from being schooled in them to correct their muscle usage, I've re-schooled tens of ex racers and I've never found one that I believe would have benefited from the being schooled in draw reins. They need their racing muscles to be let down slowly and new muscles built up and to be retaught the rider's aids, nothing more than that.

 

[competitiondiva]

Personally, I think they are for lazy people who can't ride properly .

In that case half the professional riders I've ever known can't ride properly!!!! mmmmmm