Tips/Advice re Arenas - from those who put their own in

Jnhuk

Well-Known Member
Joined
18 April 2010
Messages
2,526
Location
Midlothian/Borders
Visit site
To those folks who have put their own arena in, what top tips/advice do you have or wish that you had been told before your started?

I have no knowledge and starting to test the waters with OH!
 

Jnhuk

Well-Known Member
Joined
18 April 2010
Messages
2,526
Location
Midlothian/Borders
Visit site
Don't.
Installing arenas require a lot of experience and knowledge and the vast majority of self installed arena's end up being a total disaster.
Find a reputable company (check their previous work) to install it for you.

Probably my wording sorry but not intending to self install but get a company in to do but still looking for advice.
 

Tiddlypom

Carries on creakily
Joined
17 July 2013
Messages
22,235
Location
In between the Midlands and the North
Visit site
View several arenas installed previously by the same company, and the longer ago they were built the better.

The company that I used sent me several pages of addresses of arenas that I could view in my area, from new builds to 15 years+ old.
 

stencilface

High upon a hillside
Joined
28 February 2008
Messages
21,079
Location
Leeds
Visit site
We are looking to do this atm, and do it a combination of by ourselves and using a company I think. We have two engineers on it (my dad and OH) and the OH has access to machines and men through work to do the digging - cut and fill in our case to level it - and put in the drainage, lower membrane and then the hardcore on top. We then might look to someone to put in the next membrane and the sand and surface but it depends on what we figure out by then. I know we need angular/sub-angular sand with no fines so that it compacts well, and we are probably look at a fibre top dressing, instead of a rubber one.

Fencing wise I think we might end up (due to slope and a few other things) having the fence on the immediate edge of the arena on two sides, but then have the other sides with an open area before the fence. Again this isn't definite, it depends on how the arena levels and slopes work out when its been flattened. We are planning to start in May (when hopefully the ground will have dried up!) so need to go and mark the levels out before then.

For our research we are going round local/friends arenas and having a really good look at the surface and how it performs, me and my sister are familiar with them, but its more for my dad who isn't so up to speed with the top dressings available.
 

Booboos

Well-Known Member
Joined
5 January 2008
Messages
12,776
Location
South of France
Visit site
It's perfectly possible to do it yourself if you do your homework, use appropriate materials and get help when you need it. You need an experienced grounds workman to take the top soil off, get the levels right, sort out the drainage correctly, etc. but there is no reason you cannot source materials directly, do the labouring and other jobs like laying the membrane (properly, I.e. fixed to the retaining boards and rolls heat sealed to each other), put in retaining boards and fencing, operating the vibrating roller, etc.
 

Nicnac

Well-Known Member
Joined
9 May 2007
Messages
8,037
Visit site
That my 'flat' field actually has a 9 foot difference from corner to corner of a 20 x 40 m manege. Put mine in 20 years ago and it's still fabulous.

Went to see a few and chose a well known company. It wasn't cheap but worth every penny.

If I did it again, I would have gone 30 x 50m.
 

Booboos

Well-Known Member
Joined
5 January 2008
Messages
12,776
Location
South of France
Visit site
We are looking to do this atm, and do it a combination of by ourselves and using a company I think. We have two engineers on it (my dad and OH) and the OH has access to machines and men through work to do the digging - cut and fill in our case to level it - and put in the drainage, lower membrane and then the hardcore on top. We then might look to someone to put in the next membrane and the sand and surface but it depends on what we figure out by then. I know we need angular/sub-angular sand with no fines so that it compacts well, and we are probably look at a fibre top dressing, instead of a rubber one.

Fencing wise I think we might end up (due to slope and a few other things) having the fence on the immediate edge of the arena on two sides, but then have the other sides with an open area before the fence. Again this isn't definite, it depends on how the arena levels and slopes work out when its been flattened. We are planning to start in May (when hopefully the ground will have dried up!) so need to go and mark the levels out before then.

For our research we are going round local/friends arenas and having a really good look at the surface and how it performs, me and my sister are familiar with them, but its more for my dad who isn't so up to speed with the top dressings available.


Putting the top membrane on is quite easy as long as the hardcore has been put down correctly. Usually two rolls will do it, you lay them out making sure you have overlap under the retaining boards, heat seal in the middle and any other joints then fix to the retaining boards. Best to take off shoes when working on the membrane (although I am a bit paranoid because it is so expenssive). The unload the sand from the entrance onwards so that you can spread it from there without driving the truck on the membrane!
 

oldie48

Well-Known Member
Joined
15 April 2013
Messages
7,027
Location
South Worcestershire
Visit site
Be aware that any company you use will only give you details of "happy customers" It's the unhappy" ones you need to know about. Also, have a clear spec with regard to surface, if you are using sand, make sure they specify the type of sand.
 

Tiddlypom

Carries on creakily
Joined
17 July 2013
Messages
22,235
Location
In between the Midlands and the North
Visit site
Putting the top membrane on is quite easy as long as the hardcore has been put down correctly. Usually two rolls will do it, you lay them out making sure you have overlap under the retaining boards, heat seal in the middle and any other joints then fix to the retaining boards.
Like this, though they didn't take their boots off :eek:?

033_zpsad16d003.jpg



032_zps0a6d2e01.jpg



036_zps5fbdc160.jpg



IME the hardest thing for a self build is sourcing bulk materials of a suitable quality. There are many sharks who will supply inferior products, which will cause the arena to fail.
 

ycbm

Einstein would be proud of my Insanity...
Joined
30 January 2015
Messages
56,545
Visit site
Go wider than 20m if you possibly can, it gives you so many more schooling options.

Don't pay in full until it's all finished, and all rubbish and machinery removed from site (we got stuck with stuff in the field for a month and had to get tough to get it shifted.

Don't have fences if you don't need them. The horses learn to lean on them, mentally, when you ride. I have mine ringed with electric a couple of metres away. Saves money, too.
 

TGM

Well-Known Member
Joined
3 April 2003
Messages
16,465
Location
South East
Visit site
That my 'flat' field actually has a 9 foot difference from corner to corner of a 20 x 40 m manege.

This! It is amazing how an area which looks flat or nearly flat actually isn't and how much groundwork is needed to ensure a flat arena! We had ours put in by a well established company who offer a guarantee on their work, after getting recommendations on here and on Facebook. Two and a half years on we are still very pleased with it.
 

Goldenstar

Well-Known Member
Joined
28 March 2011
Messages
46,020
Visit site
We did our own .
We used a local drainage contractor as we of course did not have a JCB .
It's eighteen years old now and has had one top up it's ready to have a digger in to move the surface around now but it's been very very good.
It's 40x30 i do regret not putting it in 60 x 30 but it added a lot of cost and at the time it was the biggest we could afford .
First we got PP which was straight forward .
The the site was cut and laid and drains put in .
We then took a break from work and watched the drains working in the rain , we then added more drains working with natural drainage of the site .
Then it had a membrane ,stone ,another membrane ( hand bonded by me using an iron hideous job ) and then the surface , silica sand and rubber .
I wanted to use water permeable Tarmac as the layer immediately under the surface but cost considerations made us use the membrane I wish we had used the Tarmac .
We topped up once about ten years ago with rubber and carpet fibre and I recommend it could do with some carpet now .
All the post for the fence on the laid side were concreted in another expense but the fence is still going strong .
 

Jericho

Well-Known Member
Joined
26 February 2008
Messages
2,564
Visit site
That my 'flat' field actually has a 9 foot difference from corner to corner of a 20 x 40 m manege. Put mine in 20 years ago and it's still fabulous.

Went to see a few and chose a well known company. It wasn't cheap but worth every penny.

If I did it again, I would have gone 30 x 50m.

This - we put in a 20x40as couldn't afford more but it's lovely to just have that, to be able ride no matter what the ground conditions are like and has made a world of difference to schooling pony. I would have loved to put in a 30 X 60 which we would be a better size for my 16.2hh and for jumping
 

stencilface

High upon a hillside
Joined
28 February 2008
Messages
21,079
Location
Leeds
Visit site
Putting the top membrane on is quite easy as long as the hardcore has been put down correctly. Usually two rolls will do it, you lay them out making sure you have overlap under the retaining boards, heat seal in the middle and any other joints then fix to the retaining boards. Best to take off shoes when working on the membrane (although I am a bit paranoid because it is so expenssive). The unload the sand from the entrance onwards so that you can spread it from there without driving the truck on the membrane!

Thanks. We are quite a sensible bunch, so we might be able to do it all ourselves, but I don't as yet have a supplier for the membrane etc. The sand and stone I should be able to get through the people the OH uses for work. Doing the levels I don't enjoy, the OH seems to enjoy bossing me around too much, and I always end up laughing trying to hold that ruddy staff upright. I will do lots of pics if people care, its on a reasonable slope, on a wet area as there are lots of natural springs that pop up everywhere so we will be going for the belt and braces option with the drainage!
 

Gift Horse

Well-Known Member
Joined
30 October 2013
Messages
1,428
Visit site
This is a really useful thread for me too.
I have just been granted planning permission for a school (I'm v.excited)
We are hoping to construct it ourselves. I have read lots of horror stories about cheap/self installed arenas but my budget won’t stretch to paying a company to do it.

I have done some research and our neighbours have kindly given us the spec and costings they used for theirs (which is still good after 10 years use). Its reassuring to read some of the self build successes on this thread. My friend has a 8 tonne digger and my brother in law is a ground worker which is a good start.

Tiddlypom's point about sourcing good materials is my one of my concerns.
Booboos - would you mind posting or PM me the name of the membrane supplier you used? edited sorry Booboos I just read you are in France - I think I need a closer supplier :)
 
Last edited:

Spottyappy

Well-Known Member
Joined
5 September 2008
Messages
3,575
Location
Home counties
Visit site
Buy longer and wider fence posts than advised. Mine are 8' long and about 6" wide. Wanted 10' long but nowhere would do them.Put in drains,drains and more drains.
Try and build on the flattest bit of land you have, if possible, as costs more to have it dig out if unlevel - be it a company doing it or self hire as you'll need machines for longer.
If you have electric, consider putting the leaky pipe system in as it's brilliant for Irrigation but must be done at build stage and can't be added easily later on.
Speak to as many different surface companies as possible. And, ask as many questions as you can even if they seem daft.
I established that becAuse I can't easily irrigate, as have no electric, that almost all companies admitted their arenas would be too deep to be useable if we had a prolonged dry spell. So, I went for damage limitation and a surface that claims to hold moisutre a little longer than some of the others. I didn't want a gel coated surface as didn't feel the extra cost would outweigh the use.
If you want to see photos of my build last year, please pm me.
 

Jnhuk

Well-Known Member
Joined
18 April 2010
Messages
2,526
Location
Midlothian/Borders
Visit site
Buy longer and wider fence posts than advised. Mine are 8' long and about 6" wide. Wanted 10' long but nowhere would do them.Put in drains,drains and more drains.
Try and build on the flattest bit of land you have, if possible, as costs more to have it dig out if unlevel - be it a company doing it or self hire as you'll need machines for longer.
If you have electric, consider putting the leaky pipe system in as it's brilliant for Irrigation but must be done at build stage and can't be added easily later on.
Speak to as many different surface companies as possible. And, ask as many questions as you can even if they seem daft.
I established that becAuse I can't easily irrigate, as have no electric, that almost all companies admitted their arenas would be too deep to be useable if we had a prolonged dry spell. So, I went for damage limitation and a surface that claims to hold moisutre a little longer than some of the others. I didn't want a gel coated surface as didn't feel the extra cost would outweigh the use.
If you want to see photos of my build last year, please pm me.

Thanks will do - however don't think a long dry spell will be such an issue up here in Scotland!

Goldenstar - have seen video of the water permeable tarmac in action and looked fantastic but never thought of it for use under a school

Thanks all for the info - lots to research

If anyone wishes to recommend me companies that they recommend or to avoid, feel free!
 

Booboos

Well-Known Member
Joined
5 January 2008
Messages
12,776
Location
South of France
Visit site
Tiddlypom your photos look fine to me, were you pleased with the result? We did similar and it worked quite well, the shoes off was because I was being super cautious!

Stencilface I would consider getting the levels right to be part of the digger driver's job and as it is an expert job you might want to get someone in to do it. As for materials you need to specify the correct stuff. I don't remember the details off the top of my head for everything but Google in your friend. In general you need clean hardcore for the subase (40-70mm) and sand suitable for equestrian use (angular particles, small size). The membrane is easy enough to source. Between the soil and the hardcore put 100 density membrane that you find in any garden centre, no need to fix the edges or joints. Between the sand and hardcore you need geotextile, non-woven membrane of at least 500 density (you will faint at the shock of the price of this but it is essential to get it right. Also check carefully the dimensions of the roll to calculate how many you need, you need to think about how you will lay them out in advance). Large builders merchants should be able to order these in.
One more thing to consider is what you will do with the soil you remove. If you can use it on site you save money. Finally the better the access the bigger the trucks you can drive in the lower the transport costs for hardcore and sand.

I did have a post with photos from our last arena but it seems to have disappeared. I'll see if I can unearth the photos again.
 

stencilface

High upon a hillside
Joined
28 February 2008
Messages
21,079
Location
Leeds
Visit site
Well, the digger driver will get the levels physically, but me and the OH will do the setting out, we did all the levels for our house foundations and as a civil engineer specialising in groundworks I think he would be quite upset if we let someone else do it, as from experience, no one is as exacting as my OH when it comes to levels :D

Thankyou for the information on the membrane types, thats really helpful. Due to the slope of our land we will be doing cut and fill to get the levels so they'll be no spare soil as such :)
 

Tiddlypom

Carries on creakily
Joined
17 July 2013
Messages
22,235
Location
In between the Midlands and the North
Visit site
Tiddlypom your photos look fine to me, were you pleased with the result? We did similar and it worked quite well, the shoes off was because I was being super cautious!
Thanks, yes, it's a great arena, it's been down nearly 5 years now. The two chaps shown laying the membrane were here for nearly 3 weeks, working 12 hours days to build the arena. Everything was done to perfection before they moved onto the next stage. They are both employed directly by the arena company, they aren't subcontractors, which is another thing for OP to check. These guys do arena and equestrian builds as a full time job.

I will do lots of pics if people care, its on a reasonable slope, on a wet area as there are lots of natural springs that pop up everywhere so we will be going for the belt and braces option with the drainage!
Good luck with your arena build, SF. How will you factor in having natural springs, along with the slope that sounds like a very challenging site?

Another bit of advice, OP. When putting in for planning, maybe put in for a bigger size than you can initially afford to install. Mine is a 40mx20m which seems to be considered small these days, but the PP is for a 60mx20m, so we could extend it anytime later.
 

chocolategirl

Well-Known Member
Joined
8 June 2012
Messages
1,292
Visit site
My husband installed our arena 15 years ago and it's been fantastic! Every instructor who has ever taught here has said its one of the best arenas they teach on. It's only just now starting to show signs of fatigue, but we are a lvery yard so it gets A LOT of use. I admit I was very nervous about him doing it himself, so I bought a book off the BHS website, which thankfully he followed to the letter, and hey presto, we've had a fantastic arena which a has given us many good years of service. My husband is a farmer/builder though, so is very knowledgable about most things!
 

Gift Horse

Well-Known Member
Joined
30 October 2013
Messages
1,428
Visit site
Good luck with the works Jnhuk and Stencilface.
A word of caution if you have not yet got planning permission, our Local Planning Authority would not validate the application without an Ecological survey so we had to find the money for that as well as the application fee.
Also because we are on a slope the LPA were not happy with the built up end being 2meters high - even with a scheme of native planting and a dry stone wall to conceal it. We are going to have to dig out more than we planned to.
 

case895

Well-Known Member
Joined
13 May 2008
Messages
3,167
Visit site
Consider the drainage. Best membrane you can get. Good quality sand. Auger/ram the fencing. The deeper and more powerful you can harrow and grade, the better. Tractor with a back mounted blade occasionally to re level.
 

Gift Horse

Well-Known Member
Joined
30 October 2013
Messages
1,428
Visit site
Consider the drainage. Best membrane you can get. Good quality sand. Auger/ram the fencing. The deeper and more powerful you can harrow and grade, the better. Tractor with a back mounted blade occasionally to re level.

When you say - best membrane please can you recommend a manufacturer or supplier?
 

Booboos

Well-Known Member
Joined
5 January 2008
Messages
12,776
Location
South of France
Visit site
When you say - best membrane please can you recommend a manufacturer or supplier?

It's not a question of manufacturer or supplier but of density and type of membrane. For example all garden centres will have woven, 100 density membrane and it is very cheap but it is only good for separating the soil from the hardcore. For separating the hardcore from the sand while allowing drainage you need a non-woven membrane of 500 density or more.
 
Top