liona123
Active Member
What does everyone do when they walk a cross country course? I'm quite good at getting lost and jumping the wrong jump!!! Any advice please 
Tips on walking xc courses......
- Thread starter liona123
- Start date
juliap
Well-Known Member
Get a course map if available or if not then take some paper & make a note of the fence numbers inc a,b & c's, black flag routes etc from the course map which should be on a board - often at the start or by secretaries tent.
Make sure you know what colour your course is!
Use this list as you go round to mark off the fences so you know you haven't missed any. I always take a photo of each fence which reminds me esp if I walk the day before. These can always be sent to the facebook pages for course photos after the event - there is an affiliated & unaff page.
I always walk the exact line I am going to ride to check for lumps, bumps, hole, soft patches etc in the ground.
Any tricky lines I walk twice - sometimes looking back can give a better view of the best line then rewalk it forwards if that makes sense.
For skinnies I'll try to find a fixed object in the distance to line up with - for drops I try to find a tree to focus on so I don't look down.
Always check where the finish flags are - occasionally they aren't where you expect them & it would be v irritating to miss them!
Make sure you know what colour your course is!
Use this list as you go round to mark off the fences so you know you haven't missed any. I always take a photo of each fence which reminds me esp if I walk the day before. These can always be sent to the facebook pages for course photos after the event - there is an affiliated & unaff page.
I always walk the exact line I am going to ride to check for lumps, bumps, hole, soft patches etc in the ground.
Any tricky lines I walk twice - sometimes looking back can give a better view of the best line then rewalk it forwards if that makes sense.
For skinnies I'll try to find a fixed object in the distance to line up with - for drops I try to find a tree to focus on so I don't look down.
Always check where the finish flags are - occasionally they aren't where you expect them & it would be v irritating to miss them!
kerilli
Well-Known Member
i have an article i wrote about it a couple of years ago for EventingWorldWide, i'm sure Hilary won't mind me copying it onto here now. you might need a coffee though, it's very long.
Greenhorn’s Guide to Analytical Course-Walking.
If any of the following seems stupidly obvious to you, I apologise! If you are experienced, these will probably be things you do without thinking. However, for less experienced riders, I hope these may instigate a few ‘lightbulb moments’ and perhaps help them avoid some penalties here and there. This article was prompted by a request, as follows:
“Please could you cover how to walk an xc course properly, not just looking at the fences. Any tips would help. We all can amble round the course and look at the order of fences and the ground lines etc, but how far out should a rider set up a horse? What lines should we be looking for? 
I haven't been involved with horses for too many years and both I and my mare are a little green, but we are getting better. My ambition is to do a BE event, possibly July/Aug this year, and we will train towards that. My previous XC experience is from the Moto-X world which I was ok at, but horses handle very differently! 
I am currently a sponge and will accept any help/info going.”
So, here goes… I am indebted to my former Trainers (4* riders), who walked courses with me and taught me a lot of this stuff, while some of it I learnt through trial and error (mostly error)! Also to the random riders I’ve asked over the years when I was stumped about a particular fence (in the days before Rider Representatives!) – the generosity and selflessness of so many Professional Event Riders has always impressed me – special thanks to Mr Mark Todd, who very patiently explained in great detail how I should ride the various options at 1 particularly perplexing combination (bearing in mind I’d timorously accosted him as I rode down to the XC start and he was on his way back from his round, and that I’d never met him before other than to ask for his autograph as a child…!)
Obviously these are the things that work for me, and in some cases for my Trainers. Of course they aren’t gospel; different things work for different people (and horses!), but they might give you some food for thought, I hope.
Amount of time I allow (roughly) for walking a course:
BE(100) - 40 mins – 1 hr
Novice - 1 hr ish
Intermediate or Advanced - 1 hr - 1hr 30 mins. More if possible!
All these are affected by the length of the course, the terrain, whether I have ridden around that course before, how well I know the horse and how experienced it is at that level. If the course is being jumped at the time, I try to see 1 horse jump every fence, or at least all the tricky ones. If it is a combination, I’ll try to see 1 or 2 jump it, ideally one with a similar stride length and way of going to my horse. This can be invaluable. If the first one makes a real hash of it, I’ll watch another one, so that I have a good picture in my head of how to do it. If I’m pushed for time I run between fences to give myself time to wait and watch them being jumped!
What’s The Question?
At every fence, I try to work out what the Course Designer is testing - why has s/he put this particular type of fence just here?
This will give you a good idea of what might catch you out, and what your horse might do! For instance, if it is a corner fence positioned with the point towards the lorry park or collecting ring, it is an additional test of how honest (or easily distracted) your horse is – that type of fence has been deliberately positioned there to raise the difficulty. (I have seen a horse have a run out at a table fence at 3* level because he was pulling towards the stables on the other side of the hedge!)
Another example: a raised log before water has the added problem that the horse can see the water underneath the log, so might be more likely to boggle and/or stop, therefore this fence would need slightly different riding to a bigger log of the same height overall, but which was sitting on the ground.
Try to look at the fence ‘through the horse’s eyes’ – for instance if there’s a ditch under it, it will be more spook-inducing (there could be a horse-eating monster in that hole). Solid-fronted fences (like palisades) with small dark arches at the base can cause problems for even experienced horses. [[Hils, pic if pos pls – e.g. at Burghley there are a few fences like this]]
Is there a banner near the fence that might distract your horse or make him shy, so that you don’t have quite the approach you intended? Fences freshly creosoted black tend to ride bigger and more imposing than if they’re brown. There are sorts of variables, and everything depends on your horse’s experience, natural bravery level, etc. A fence that one horse will sail over without a second thought, another might find really frightening. Has your horse jumped a similar fence? If so, how did it go? All these variables should affect how you plan to ride that particular fence, and when you’re riding the course, take into account how he’s jumped the course so far (is he growing in confidence, or did he frighten himself a bit at a certain fence?) and ride accordingly.
Where to start setting up?
Generally speaking, the more upright the fence, and/or the more complicated, the earlier you need to think of setting up. Caroline Moore uses the parallel of different ‘gears’ 1-5 for your approach (see “How to Ride an Airy Trakhener” article) and this is an excellent one. It would vary from, say, 2nd gear (a short, steady, bouncy “Coffin Canter” for a decent Hollow (with drop on landing, to ditch, to rising ground, to rail), to a re-balanced, then forward stride to a simple steeplechase fence, or ditch-hedge (4th – 5th gear). Deciding where to start setting up for each fence should be part of your course walk, at least until it becomes second nature!
Of course, it also depends hugely on your horse’s way of going. If s/he is well balanced and responsive, the sort who listens to as light an aid as you bringing your shoulders up on the approach, you can leave your setting up a little later. If the horse is keen and strong, and perhaps gallops on the forehand, you need to prepare for the fence far earlier.
It is always far better to rebalance early and then ride forward to the fence than leave it too late, realise you’re going too fast or too unbalanced, try to apply the leg and the brakes, and ‘stop’ the horse into the bottom of the fence. This is something that is often learned by trial and error…!
Lines to Fences.
When the horse is inexperienced, make your lines as straight and easy as possible to the fences. Let the horse have plenty of time, ideally in both approach distance and approach speed, to sum up the question. There’s plenty of time for cutting corners later, once the horse understands the job and is eagerly looking for the next fence.
Don’t forget that sharp turns are a LOT more difficult on a horse… it’s easy to forget when you walk the line on foot! Fences close together with a 90 degree angle between them need approaching at a very steady, controlled, bouncy canter, so that you land over the first part in total control, not haring off. You can train your horse to turn in the air – something well worth practising at home, because the more responsive your horse, the easier XC will be.
Striding Out Distances.
For both the SJ and the XC, you need to know your horse’s normal stride length, and then your own stride length very accurately. Measure out an exact distance at home, say 10 yards, and either
walk it repeatedly until you know how much you need to alter your strides to make them all a uniform, reliable 1 yard each. i.e. adjust your stride accordingly, so that you get a perfect 10 strides in it, every time, and memorise how fast you were walking, and how much you need to alter your stride, so you can do exactly the same at an event. (This needs practising occasionally too.)
OR
walk normally (with a perfectly even stride) and see how many inches or feet out you are after 10 strides, then work out what your normal stride is, so you can take that into account when you walk distances at events.
(for example I use the first method, and my normal stride is very slightly shorter than a yard, about 2” shorter, so I know I need to lengthen every stride very slightly when walking distances. I suspect that tall people probably use the former way, and shorter people the latter, but that’s just a guess!)
I often see people walking combinations, particularly on the SJ, and, knowing it is 1-stride say, fixing their eyes on the 2nd part and taking 4 huge strides and then 3 or 4 small ones to make their strides ‘fit’ the distance. This isn’t helpful at all! You need a measured stride, then walk the distance with it precisely, and work out what’s left (or not) at the end.
Then, if you know that the distance in a combination is, say, 7 1/2 yards, and your horse is naturally long-striding, you need to approach slightly slower, with a rounder, shorter stride, than you would on a horse with a naturally shorter stride. If the combination is angled, and that was the middle distance, you could jump it on the side that made the distance between the elements shorter, on the shorter-striding horse, or on the wider side on the longer-striding horse, to make it slightly easier.
end of part 1 (word limit!)
Greenhorn’s Guide to Analytical Course-Walking.
If any of the following seems stupidly obvious to you, I apologise! If you are experienced, these will probably be things you do without thinking. However, for less experienced riders, I hope these may instigate a few ‘lightbulb moments’ and perhaps help them avoid some penalties here and there. This article was prompted by a request, as follows:
“Please could you cover how to walk an xc course properly, not just looking at the fences. Any tips would help. We all can amble round the course and look at the order of fences and the ground lines etc, but how far out should a rider set up a horse? What lines should we be looking for? 
I haven't been involved with horses for too many years and both I and my mare are a little green, but we are getting better. My ambition is to do a BE event, possibly July/Aug this year, and we will train towards that. My previous XC experience is from the Moto-X world which I was ok at, but horses handle very differently! 
I am currently a sponge and will accept any help/info going.”
So, here goes… I am indebted to my former Trainers (4* riders), who walked courses with me and taught me a lot of this stuff, while some of it I learnt through trial and error (mostly error)! Also to the random riders I’ve asked over the years when I was stumped about a particular fence (in the days before Rider Representatives!) – the generosity and selflessness of so many Professional Event Riders has always impressed me – special thanks to Mr Mark Todd, who very patiently explained in great detail how I should ride the various options at 1 particularly perplexing combination (bearing in mind I’d timorously accosted him as I rode down to the XC start and he was on his way back from his round, and that I’d never met him before other than to ask for his autograph as a child…!)
Obviously these are the things that work for me, and in some cases for my Trainers. Of course they aren’t gospel; different things work for different people (and horses!), but they might give you some food for thought, I hope.
Amount of time I allow (roughly) for walking a course:
BE(100) - 40 mins – 1 hr
Novice - 1 hr ish
Intermediate or Advanced - 1 hr - 1hr 30 mins. More if possible!
All these are affected by the length of the course, the terrain, whether I have ridden around that course before, how well I know the horse and how experienced it is at that level. If the course is being jumped at the time, I try to see 1 horse jump every fence, or at least all the tricky ones. If it is a combination, I’ll try to see 1 or 2 jump it, ideally one with a similar stride length and way of going to my horse. This can be invaluable. If the first one makes a real hash of it, I’ll watch another one, so that I have a good picture in my head of how to do it. If I’m pushed for time I run between fences to give myself time to wait and watch them being jumped!
What’s The Question?
At every fence, I try to work out what the Course Designer is testing - why has s/he put this particular type of fence just here?
This will give you a good idea of what might catch you out, and what your horse might do! For instance, if it is a corner fence positioned with the point towards the lorry park or collecting ring, it is an additional test of how honest (or easily distracted) your horse is – that type of fence has been deliberately positioned there to raise the difficulty. (I have seen a horse have a run out at a table fence at 3* level because he was pulling towards the stables on the other side of the hedge!)
Another example: a raised log before water has the added problem that the horse can see the water underneath the log, so might be more likely to boggle and/or stop, therefore this fence would need slightly different riding to a bigger log of the same height overall, but which was sitting on the ground.
Try to look at the fence ‘through the horse’s eyes’ – for instance if there’s a ditch under it, it will be more spook-inducing (there could be a horse-eating monster in that hole). Solid-fronted fences (like palisades) with small dark arches at the base can cause problems for even experienced horses. [[Hils, pic if pos pls – e.g. at Burghley there are a few fences like this]]
Is there a banner near the fence that might distract your horse or make him shy, so that you don’t have quite the approach you intended? Fences freshly creosoted black tend to ride bigger and more imposing than if they’re brown. There are sorts of variables, and everything depends on your horse’s experience, natural bravery level, etc. A fence that one horse will sail over without a second thought, another might find really frightening. Has your horse jumped a similar fence? If so, how did it go? All these variables should affect how you plan to ride that particular fence, and when you’re riding the course, take into account how he’s jumped the course so far (is he growing in confidence, or did he frighten himself a bit at a certain fence?) and ride accordingly.
Where to start setting up?
Generally speaking, the more upright the fence, and/or the more complicated, the earlier you need to think of setting up. Caroline Moore uses the parallel of different ‘gears’ 1-5 for your approach (see “How to Ride an Airy Trakhener” article) and this is an excellent one. It would vary from, say, 2nd gear (a short, steady, bouncy “Coffin Canter”
for a decent Hollow (with drop on landing, to ditch, to rising ground, to rail), to a re-balanced, then forward stride to a simple steeplechase fence, or ditch-hedge (4th – 5th gear). Deciding where to start setting up for each fence should be part of your course walk, at least until it becomes second nature!Of course, it also depends hugely on your horse’s way of going. If s/he is well balanced and responsive, the sort who listens to as light an aid as you bringing your shoulders up on the approach, you can leave your setting up a little later. If the horse is keen and strong, and perhaps gallops on the forehand, you need to prepare for the fence far earlier.
It is always far better to rebalance early and then ride forward to the fence than leave it too late, realise you’re going too fast or too unbalanced, try to apply the leg and the brakes, and ‘stop’ the horse into the bottom of the fence. This is something that is often learned by trial and error…!
Lines to Fences.
When the horse is inexperienced, make your lines as straight and easy as possible to the fences. Let the horse have plenty of time, ideally in both approach distance and approach speed, to sum up the question. There’s plenty of time for cutting corners later, once the horse understands the job and is eagerly looking for the next fence.
Don’t forget that sharp turns are a LOT more difficult on a horse… it’s easy to forget when you walk the line on foot! Fences close together with a 90 degree angle between them need approaching at a very steady, controlled, bouncy canter, so that you land over the first part in total control, not haring off. You can train your horse to turn in the air – something well worth practising at home, because the more responsive your horse, the easier XC will be.
Striding Out Distances.
For both the SJ and the XC, you need to know your horse’s normal stride length, and then your own stride length very accurately. Measure out an exact distance at home, say 10 yards, and either
walk it repeatedly until you know how much you need to alter your strides to make them all a uniform, reliable 1 yard each. i.e. adjust your stride accordingly, so that you get a perfect 10 strides in it, every time, and memorise how fast you were walking, and how much you need to alter your stride, so you can do exactly the same at an event. (This needs practising occasionally too.)
OR
walk normally (with a perfectly even stride) and see how many inches or feet out you are after 10 strides, then work out what your normal stride is, so you can take that into account when you walk distances at events.
(for example I use the first method, and my normal stride is very slightly shorter than a yard, about 2” shorter, so I know I need to lengthen every stride very slightly when walking distances. I suspect that tall people probably use the former way, and shorter people the latter, but that’s just a guess!)
I often see people walking combinations, particularly on the SJ, and, knowing it is 1-stride say, fixing their eyes on the 2nd part and taking 4 huge strides and then 3 or 4 small ones to make their strides ‘fit’ the distance. This isn’t helpful at all! You need a measured stride, then walk the distance with it precisely, and work out what’s left (or not) at the end.
Then, if you know that the distance in a combination is, say, 7 1/2 yards, and your horse is naturally long-striding, you need to approach slightly slower, with a rounder, shorter stride, than you would on a horse with a naturally shorter stride. If the combination is angled, and that was the middle distance, you could jump it on the side that made the distance between the elements shorter, on the shorter-striding horse, or on the wider side on the longer-striding horse, to make it slightly easier.
end of part 1 (word limit!)
kerilli
Well-Known Member
part 2:
Walking Your Line Through a Combination.
It is the RIDER’S RESPONSIBILITY to work out the best speed and place to jump the fences to get the distance right for their horse! It seems to be a new trend to try to make this the Course Designer’s responsibility, but they are designing for an average horse, and while they shouldn’t include half-strides, the rider has to make adjustments – that is the chief art of XC riding!

When I'm walking a combination which is set on a curve, or which I'll need to angle, I'll put my programme on top of the first bit where I intend to jump it (usually the middle, at first glance), walk the distance, if it's wrong I'll go back and move my programme to left or right, walk it again to whichever part of 2nd element I'm aiming for, adjust that too if necessary (usually depending on which direction the course goes next), and repeat until I get the exact distance I want to the spot I like. Then I go back to the take-off side of the first part and see where my programme is for where to jump. I can't remember who told me to do this, or if I worked it out for myself, but it works like a charm and takes the guesswork out... even if I do get some funny looks!
Be aware that you will usually ride in on exactly the line you walked, so if you originally walked the line slightly wrong the first time (and discovered this when you saw the landing, subsequent elements, etc), it is worth going back away from the fence 20 or 30 yards, and walking in again on exactly the right line.
(I’ve paid the price for not doing this, twice now…! One cost me a top-10 place at a 2* CCI, and still rankles!)
When choosing your approach to a corner, say, which requires a very exact line, it’s very helpful to line up with a landmark on the other side, a particular tree or fence post, and use that to make sure you are spot on as you approach the fence – line up with the landmark, then look at the fence the whole way in.
Always walk the course with the Schedule in your hand, otherwise one day you WILL miss out a fence, or part of a fence. I’ve done this twice now, both times I thought I’d had a great clear, my mare did exactly what I asked her to do, but unfortunately that didn’t include a fence in one case (I walked the course, and rode it, in heavy fog, never saw the offending fence and forgot to check the numbers as I walked the course!) and part D of a combination in the second case. Both times probably cost me a placing, gutting. Most event riders will probably admit to having done this at some point… even the greats! Jeannette Brakewell did just this on the great Over To You at Belton Advanced in 2008, galloped straight past a fence. Very very annoying, an unnecessary and undeserved E on your horse’s record.
Learning The Course.
My pretty fool-proof way of learning the course is to memorise it cumulatively as I go, so I know every single fence and can describe it, with additional details (directions etc). I run through the whole course from the beginning as I add every fence, and go through the whole lot at the end at least once or twice as I walk back to the box. I add brief notes (especially directions!) to the plan in my Schedule so that I can have a last-minute check before going xc.
As an example, my notes on the BE(100) course at Brigstock last year were:
Feed Frame. Then bear Right.
Pheasant Feeder. Bear R.
Table. Get straight to jump.
Log. Angled to R, jump in centre.
Narrower Log. Jump on R. bear round to R, through trees to spooky
6a. Into water
6b. Out of water, bear LLL to
7. Lamb creep, then go R thru gateway to
8. Garden Trellis. L, through gap in hedge to
9. Step Down, LL through third archway, on to
10. Trakhener, on, then L-ish to
11. Steeplechase fence
etc etc
If the course goes through woodland and turns up a path in the woods, make sure you memorise exactly where to turn and don’t take the wrong path. Again, something I’ve done, twice, expensively both times!
It’s really worth having a quiet, uninterrupted few minutes before you go xc, to close your eyes, and run through the whole course in detail, fence by fence, including directions, landmarks etc. I don’t go xc until I can do this perfectly without recourse to my written notes - you owe it to your horse to know exactly what’s coming, not come round the corner and think “****! I’d forgotten that one was here!” If you can’t get any peace and quiet, shut yourself in the loo for a couple of minutes!
Visualisation is an athlete’s best friend. It has been proven that the brain cannot tell the difference between a real memory and a run-through – so, if you imagine what you are going to do beforehand, in a detailed, accurate and positive way, when you get to the fence your body will respond as if you have already done it successfully once.
If I’ve missed anything out, please let me know.
By the way, I’ve noticed a pattern here, I seem to make these mistakes twice on different horses before the penny finally drops, hopefully you can learn from my costly mistakes, and avoid them!
Walking Your Line Through a Combination.
It is the RIDER’S RESPONSIBILITY to work out the best speed and place to jump the fences to get the distance right for their horse! It seems to be a new trend to try to make this the Course Designer’s responsibility, but they are designing for an average horse, and while they shouldn’t include half-strides, the rider has to make adjustments – that is the chief art of XC riding!

When I'm walking a combination which is set on a curve, or which I'll need to angle, I'll put my programme on top of the first bit where I intend to jump it (usually the middle, at first glance), walk the distance, if it's wrong I'll go back and move my programme to left or right, walk it again to whichever part of 2nd element I'm aiming for, adjust that too if necessary (usually depending on which direction the course goes next), and repeat until I get the exact distance I want to the spot I like. Then I go back to the take-off side of the first part and see where my programme is for where to jump. I can't remember who told me to do this, or if I worked it out for myself, but it works like a charm and takes the guesswork out... even if I do get some funny looks!
Be aware that you will usually ride in on exactly the line you walked, so if you originally walked the line slightly wrong the first time (and discovered this when you saw the landing, subsequent elements, etc), it is worth going back away from the fence 20 or 30 yards, and walking in again on exactly the right line.
(I’ve paid the price for not doing this, twice now…! One cost me a top-10 place at a 2* CCI, and still rankles!)
When choosing your approach to a corner, say, which requires a very exact line, it’s very helpful to line up with a landmark on the other side, a particular tree or fence post, and use that to make sure you are spot on as you approach the fence – line up with the landmark, then look at the fence the whole way in.
Always walk the course with the Schedule in your hand, otherwise one day you WILL miss out a fence, or part of a fence. I’ve done this twice now, both times I thought I’d had a great clear, my mare did exactly what I asked her to do, but unfortunately that didn’t include a fence in one case (I walked the course, and rode it, in heavy fog, never saw the offending fence and forgot to check the numbers as I walked the course!) and part D of a combination in the second case. Both times probably cost me a placing, gutting. Most event riders will probably admit to having done this at some point… even the greats! Jeannette Brakewell did just this on the great Over To You at Belton Advanced in 2008, galloped straight past a fence. Very very annoying, an unnecessary and undeserved E on your horse’s record.
Learning The Course.
My pretty fool-proof way of learning the course is to memorise it cumulatively as I go, so I know every single fence and can describe it, with additional details (directions etc). I run through the whole course from the beginning as I add every fence, and go through the whole lot at the end at least once or twice as I walk back to the box. I add brief notes (especially directions!) to the plan in my Schedule so that I can have a last-minute check before going xc.
As an example, my notes on the BE(100) course at Brigstock last year were:
Feed Frame. Then bear Right.
Pheasant Feeder. Bear R.
Table. Get straight to jump.
Log. Angled to R, jump in centre.
Narrower Log. Jump on R. bear round to R, through trees to spooky
6a. Into water
6b. Out of water, bear LLL to
7. Lamb creep, then go R thru gateway to
8. Garden Trellis. L, through gap in hedge to
9. Step Down, LL through third archway, on to
10. Trakhener, on, then L-ish to
11. Steeplechase fence
etc etc
If the course goes through woodland and turns up a path in the woods, make sure you memorise exactly where to turn and don’t take the wrong path. Again, something I’ve done, twice, expensively both times!
It’s really worth having a quiet, uninterrupted few minutes before you go xc, to close your eyes, and run through the whole course in detail, fence by fence, including directions, landmarks etc. I don’t go xc until I can do this perfectly without recourse to my written notes - you owe it to your horse to know exactly what’s coming, not come round the corner and think “****! I’d forgotten that one was here!” If you can’t get any peace and quiet, shut yourself in the loo for a couple of minutes!
Visualisation is an athlete’s best friend. It has been proven that the brain cannot tell the difference between a real memory and a run-through – so, if you imagine what you are going to do beforehand, in a detailed, accurate and positive way, when you get to the fence your body will respond as if you have already done it successfully once.
If I’ve missed anything out, please let me know.
By the way, I’ve noticed a pattern here, I seem to make these mistakes twice on different horses before the penny finally drops, hopefully you can learn from my costly mistakes, and avoid them!
Ranyhyn
Well-Known Member
K that article was fantastic - even to my mini-mind that made a lot of sense!! Thanks for posting!
walker1234
Well-Known Member
brilliant article thanks, - any chance you could post the see How to Ride an Airy Trakhener article it refers to as well?
kerilli
Well-Known Member
i'll ask Hils if she will make them all Open now, since EWW is sadly shutting down anyway, and these are all old articles now.
livvyc_ria
Well-Known Member
Fab article!! Will definitely be taking some of those gems with me next time i walk a course
I second walking your line again if first time wasnt great...have i been caught out not doing that before!!
I second walking your line again if first time wasnt great...have i been caught out not doing that before!!
liona123
Active Member
really good advice - thanks!!!