Trailer floor....... I know I know

[flying solo]

Its been done to the death but I can't see anything for Sinclair trailer floors. I removed ply which was about 3/4 inch deep and it was in two halfs with very thin rubber on top. Now all the other work has been done I'm hoping to get the wood this week. I've already bought much thicker mats for the whole floor and both ramps now I just have to get the wood for the floor.

What is the best way to do the floor and with which wood? I don't mind spending a lot if need be, safety is more important than cost to me. Any help would be greatly appreciated x

 

[nikCscott]

Just had my ramp done with 18mm marine ply- I know nothing but it may help you a bit

 

[trojanpony]

I recently had van floor done. It was originally 2 layers of 3/4 inch ply but replaced with one layer of 1 inch which is apparently sufficient. Marine grade ply is the stuff you want as withstands the wet.

 

[Marydoll]

Marine ply, but im not sure of the depth

 

[flying solo]

Thank you, what should I paint it with to make it waterproof?

 

[rockysmum]

Get some advice, I have never done a Sinclair floor so I cant help.

The advice I always got when doing my Rice was that ply should not be put down if there were more than 18" gaps between the supports.

As my Rice had several feet between the metal chassis pieces I always went for the orginal construction which was tongue and groove floor boards with ply over the top.

I actually also had extra pieces of angle iron welded to narrow the gaps but I can be a bit OCD about trailer floors.

If you cant find a trailer dealer then ask a good joiner. Remember the horses weight is in four small places not spread over the whole floor.

I personally always prefer double floors with rubber on top but I have never been worried about weight.

If weight is an issue then the thicker matting will add to it considerably. So when you have finished get it weighed and get the weight plate changed

And weight is not just about towing weight, the axles also have a maximum weight they can safely carry. I found out that the Richardson Lightweight did not mean it was light, it meant the axles would not carry two big cobs even though they would fit in and the overall weight was legal for the vehicle.

 

[Adeer]

We have previously done a Sinclair floor and we replaced the wood with 25mm thick ply (which it was originally fitted with). We did it in 4 sections with a split line along the centre of the box. The area where each horse stands was done in one piece and we then covered it in 6 mm rubber which we glued on. Only the underside was creosoted because the glue wouldn't stick to the topside.
However, we are currently doing a 3 horse Sinclair box for our daughter. This was originally fitted with 20 mm ply floor which we are replacing with the same. Again this is being done in 4 sections with a split line along the centre and the area for each individual horse in one piece. This is then being creosoted both sides and will then have loose fitted thick rubber mats on.
Hope this helps but if you need any further info. please get back to me.

 

[Toby_Zaphod]

Providing the steelwork under the floor is sound I see no problem with you replacing the floor with the same thickness of marine plywood in the floor that you have just removed, 22mm would be ideal. Many of the old trailers that are advertised with 'double layerd floor' just mean that the owner has not removed the old rotten floor & just dropped a new floor over the top (not good).

While you have the floor out take the opportunity to give the trailer chassis a clean off & if it's galvanised give it a spray with 'cold galvanising spray' on any rusty parts. If it's normal steel then use hammerite.

Use any quality wood preservative on the marine ply, paint the underside before you install it as this will be easier, then paint the top after the instalation. You may wish to drill a couple of 25mm drain holes in the floor whiuch will help any urine drain away should your horse go whilst in the trailer. After fixing the floor down I would use a mastic sealant gun to seal the edges between floor & walls, black guttering sealant will do the job & it won't discolour. Cut your mats to a tight fit & leave them loose in the trailer so they can be removed for cleaning.

Don't forget that you have now fitted thick rubber mats so this will increase the trailer ulw

 

[flying solo]

Thank you very much everyone! I now have a idea of what I need and im off to the timber yard

I know adding all the rubber will add to the weight that's not a problem I'll only be towing ponies. Plus it feels safer going up and down the ramps. The rubber inside the trailer was only about 3mm and was ripped to shreds. My pony is a fidget hence the reason wanting thicker rubber.