Waterford vs. Kimblewick bit

F

FunkyFilly28

Well-Known Member
Joined
13 November 2008
Messages
464
Visit site
Hi, I was just wondering what your views/experiences were on waterford and kimblewick bits.

My horse is a keen jumper currently in a loose ring snaffle but I am finding that I don't have the control that I want. I have tried him in a gag but he doesn't seem that happy in it.

So any ideas or comments? Thanks!
 
It really depends what your horse does to get away from you what the best bit would be.

When you say your tried a gag what sort?

There are lots of other options to consider, a cherry roller, a twisted snaffle, dr bristol, pelham, double, hanging cheek snaffle, mylers, NS bits etc etc. The solution might not even be a bit, it could be a noseband or a martingale.

It is impossible to say which is best, it is a case of which is best for your situation.
 
I SJ him in a snaffle and find that he speeds up in the approach or breaks into canter if coming in at a trot.

For XC, I have him in a continental three-ring gag, but when I take a pull he just pulls right back and I am pulled forwards. He doesn't really like to be interfered with but I really need a bit more control because although I can manage the SJ, I don't feel very safe taking him XC now after coming off twice the last time we went.

My instructor suggested a stronger bit so just wondering what your views were...
 
These 2 bits could hardly be more different: The design of the Waterford (on normal rings) has no extra poll action and discourages the horse from leaning as the bit is so "flexi". The kimblewick has some poll action (the cheekpieces and reins are attached at different points) but less than a pelham; it has a curb chain - which you can have tight or loose, covered with rubber or plain metal - altering both of which often makes a huge difference; and you have an unjointed mouth piece - with small port. which some horses take to and others do not like -

If you just want a bit of extra braking and don't want poll action etc, suggest you try the waterford first. It will also be less of a change for your horse.
 
Reading your second post, your instructor may be the best person to advise as she knows you and your horse. Most of us have to experiment with bits we happen to have, or can borrow; and don't buy a new bit until we've tried it and know it works. Maybe your instructor has a selection and could lend you something to try? If you can't beg or borrow from friends, the Horse Bit Shop (online) hires for £6.50 which is then knocked off the price if you buy the bit.
 
Yes but does he open his mouth, cross his jaw, stick his head in the air, tuck it into his chest, take hold of the bit and lean, snatch or what?

That is how to decide what you need to do.

If SJ he is speeding up into the fence but comes back after the fence it is probably a riding issue not a bit issue. You possibly need to think about half halting through your back, shoulders, and seat rather than using your hands. You may find that he is better jumping from a steady canter rather than making him trot, some horses don't like jumping from trot.

Also not getting into a pulling match with him is a good idea! Although easier said than done! Most pullers do something to enable them to pull like putting their head up or down or opening their mouth and if you can figure that out you can work out the best solution. It could be a grackle or a martingale.
 
Katt - thanks for your comment. I find that he takes hold of and leans on the bit wanting to go at his speed. He is a very cleve horse and in my lesson yesterday, I was made to walk into the gird, with one or two stride of trot, however, after a few goes he even started trotting as I turned in.

I am only 14 and he is a 15.3hh tb and I have perfect control on the flat and in between fences it just seems that he locks onto a fence and takes me with him. This is all well and good until he puts in a quick stop ocassionally and I go flying.

I have tried him in a running martingale but I don't feel it makes much difference as his head doesn't go up. He is in a cavesson noseband and I have never tried anything different.

Any suggestions?
 
I'd try him in a mexican grackle if you think he is setting his jaw against you and his normal bit. A snaffle becomes much more effective if he can't cross his jaw or open his mounth to evade it.

If it is just the last few strides before a fence I'd be wary of doing too much with his mouth, you could make the stopping worse.

Are you having lessons??

I'd try lots of exercises that stop him "locking on" so approaching and circling away if he starts to fizz and keeping circling until he's calm then bringing him again but circling if he starts to pull again. Try unusual approaches so he doesn't get a long run up too, and approaching off angles with a choice of fence so he can't anticipate. Avoid jumping single fences and aim more for courses.

Rather than taking a pull in the last few strides sit up and deep, drop your weight well into your heel and push down, keep your hand low and still and bring your shoulders down and back whilst breathing out. This acts as a half halt and a calmer. He will start to respond to this and come back. Some horses don't like you interfering with their mouth on the approach and it can make them worse.

Your horse sounds a bit like a friend of mine's and the exercises above helped him no end. She did try some stronger bits for a while (he was generally a bit strong not just on the approach to a fence) the best one was a pelham with two reins so she could just use the curb when she really needed it and ride him on the snaffle ring when he was being good. With practice she needed the curb less and less and is now jumping him in a snaffle again!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top