Weed management in field

[kat2290]

I've got a weed problem rapidly developing in my field
Luckily no ragwort but I do have creeping buttercup, foxgloves and common hogweed growing in copious amounts, I can't believe how fast they are shooting up. The buttercup in particular is becoming a real problem as it is totally taking over and starting to swamp the grass.

My plan is to get beg borrow or steal some fencing tape and posts and fence off half the field to spray with weed killer, leave for a few weeks then swap ponios over and do the other side.

Few questions - what is the best weed killer to use? How long do I need to leave before turning back out? Will the weed killer kill all the grass too and if so how long will it take to regrow? ...I think that is all for now!

Advice and experiences muchly appreciated

 

[Polos Mum]

Use a selective broadleave weedkiller that will leave the grass alone - reseeding will take months (if not years!)
How long they have to be off depends on what you use - it will be clear on the label when livestock can be returned to the field - commonly it's a couple of weeks.
We use a mixture of Agritox and Depitox - purchased and applied by our lovely local farmer who has all the right licences to use it as it's quite a strong product - it does mean it really kills tough weeds like buttercups and docks. Lots of over the counter products won't kill tough weeks to the roots.

 

[honetpot]

http://www.progreen.co.uk/weed-kill...in-grass/weedkillers-for-paddocks/cat_28.html
Have a look at this

 

[Polos Mum]

A useful summary but PLEASE PLEASE ignore the comment under the bottom of the table that says wait until ragwort has died and is unpalitable - ragwort is MORE palitable when it is dead/ dried as it looses the bitterness (which is why it's so dangerous in hay)

If you have any ragwort/ or suspect any might be there it's best to dig it once it's dead or leave the field until it's completely rotted away ( a good few months)

 

[kat2290]

Thanks for the replies

Polos mum I think I've seen you posting recently about the dodgy labelling on weed killers...I think it was you anyway! I know about the dangers of ragwort when dead/dried but do what about the buttercup etc, do I need to remove it all before putting that animals back out? That would take me forever!!

 

[Polos Mum]

Buttercup is fine alive or dead, mine won't eat it fresh and our hay fields are sprayed so don't know what they would do if it's dead, either way there isn't anything in it that is nasty.

We had a hay field with some sourthistle in it, I spent hours walking round once the hay was cut carefully picking it out of the drying hay, had 3 or 4 piles round the field after a few days which I ment to come and get later with a wheelbarrow - but never got round to it. A couple of weeks after we baled I put the horses back on the field and one ignored the fresh new shoots of grass and scoffed the piles of 2 week dead sour thistle like it was haylage!! So you just never know what they will do with dead weeds.

 

[RutlandH2O]

http://www.progreen.co.uk/weed-kill...in-grass/weedkillers-for-paddocks/cat_28.html
Have a look at this

I chose the weedkiller I used based on ProGreen's chart. It is important to use a chemical that contains dicamba and MCPA to control/kill creeping buttercup. ProGreen gave Kaskara a 5 for creeping buttercup (5 being most effective). However, on the container the manufacturer lists Kaskara as moderately effective. That was a bit of a disappointment, to say the least. We sprayed two fields using a knapsack sprayer and waited over two weeks before allowing the horses to return (the chart lists the return of animals after seven days). The second field we did is producing a vast amount of buttercup flowers right now. So, we will have to go back to the drawing board next year and use a boom sprayer with a different chemical, probably Headland Relay, I think.

 

[RutlandH2O]

Thanks for the replies

Polos mum I think I've seen you posting recently about the dodgy labelling on weed killers...I think it was you anyway! I know about the dangers of ragwort when dead/dried but do what about the buttercup etc, do I need to remove it all before putting that animals back out? That would take me forever!!

Actually, I was the one who posted about incorrect labelling regarding dead ragwort. It is an industry-wide mistake that, I was told, has to be addressed by the Chemical Directives agency and could take many years. Polos Mum's advice, above, regarding dead ragwort, is spot on!

 

[kat2290]

Ahh sorry Rutland my mistake interesting what you have said about the progreen chart as kaskara is probably the one I would have chosen based on that. Maybe not after your experiences!

How do you know which products need to be bought/applied by somebody with a license and which can be done by joe average? I suppose I could always ask the farmer but I feel like I am always asking favours from him and I know if I offered him any money he would flatly refuse!

 

[RutlandH2O]

Kat, does he drink or have a favourite meal or sweet? You could always approach him with a promise of something yummy if he won't accept money. Does that sound naughty? It wasn't meant to offend!

I was able to buy the Kaskara from ProGreen. I also ordered their protective coveralls, goggles and gloves for my handyman for when he sprayed the field. I suppose ProGreen would tell you if a particular chemical is licensed. I would think all the products on their chart are available to the average joe.

 

[kat2290]

I had momentarily forgotten what I said in my last post so when I started reading that I was thinking what the *%!#

 

[Oliver12]

I chose the weedkiller I used based on ProGreen's chart. It is important to use a chemical that contains dicamba and MCPA to control/kill creeping buttercup. ProGreen gave Kaskara a 5 for creeping buttercup (5 being most effective). However, on the container the manufacturer lists Kaskara as moderately effective. That was a bit of a disappointment, to say the least. We sprayed two fields using a knapsack sprayer and waited over two weeks before allowing the horses to return (the chart lists the return of animals after seven days). The second field we did is producing a vast amount of buttercup flowers right now. So, we will have to go back to the drawing board next year and use a boom sprayer with a different chemical, probably Headland Relay, I think.

Oh great. I've just bought Kaskara and was planning on using it this week as we have a buttercup problem. I don't fancy wasting hours of my time if it's going to be ineffective.

 

[kat2290]

I've just had a thought, my MIL who lives next door buy Glyphosate in bulk and has mentioned before that I am welcome to use it. Would that be ok to use on the hog weed and foxgloves if i spot treated? I guess it wouldn't be appropriate to use on the buttercup though?

 

[RutlandH2O]

Oh great. I've just bought Kaskara and was planning on using it this week as we have a buttercup problem. I don't fancy wasting hours of my time if it's going to be ineffective.

I'll ask my handyman if he used a weaker solution for the second field. I'm really disappointed, because that second field is loaded with creeping buttercup, and now it's flowering.

 

[RutlandH2O]

I've just had a thought, my MIL who lives next door buy Glyphosate in bulk and has mentioned before that I am welcome to use it. Would that be ok to use on the hog weed and foxgloves if i spot treated? I guess it wouldn't be appropriate to use on the buttercup though?

The key in ridding your fields of creeping buttercup, dock, thistle, nettle, is to use a selective chemical...that is, something that will kill the weeds but not the grass. I'm pretty sure glyphosate will kill the grass, but I'm happy to be corrected.

Can you contact a farm merchants and ask if they have an agronomist who could point you in the right direction?

 

[kat2290]

Yes I think you are correct. I'm thinking if I were to spot treat the foxgloves and hogweed I could probably do it whilst getting minimal amounts of glyphosate on the grass. I suppose I could always try it on a patch and see how it goes. I'll definitely need something else to deal with the buttercup though as like you say I think the glyphosate will kill the grass off as I'll need to spray over a large area.

Ohhh it's too late to be deliberating over weed killers!!

 

[kat2290]

Oooo an agronomist! That's my new word for the day Good idea thanks!

 

[Fii]

We have a problem with creeping buttercup, lime is supposed to help get rid of it, topping about now also seemed to help! We topped the field last year, and then took a late cut from it and there wasnt much buttercup in it!

 

[Fii]

Try this Forum i have a post on creeping buttercup on it!

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...4BqHOYZrj7_sK1jIs-7YxEg&bvm=bv.46751780,d.ZG4

They are very friendly!!

 

[Oliver12]

I'll ask my handyman if he used a weaker solution for the second field. I'm really disappointed, because that second field is loaded with creeping buttercup, and now it's flowering.

Thanks. I've emailed Progreen and this is their reply:

"There are three main types of buttercup - creeping buttercup is the easiest to treat - Kaskara will have a good effect on it. Common buttercup and bulbous buttercup are more difficult to treat. Bulbous is the most difficult as it is not very susceptible to many of the main herbicides now approved for use in the UK. Identify which type of buttercup you have will go a long way to increase success.

A key to application is to use when the plant is actively growing ..... before the buttercups flower..... There is sometimes a second flush of growth in autumn after the flowers have gone, when new leaves appear -which is a good time to apply the product followed by another application the next spring."

 

[Oliver12]

The key in ridding your fields of creeping buttercup, dock, thistle, nettle, is to use a selective chemical...that is, something that will kill the weeds but not the grass. I'm pretty sure glyphosate will kill the grass, but I'm happy to be corrected.

Can you contact a farm merchants and ask if they have an agronomist who could point you in the right direction?

Yes you are right. Glyphosate will kill everything - grass included.

 

[RutlandH2O]

Oliver, thank you for that information. Perhaps an autumn application will be in the pipeline.

Now I will go and identify the type of buttercup taking over our fields, although I'm pretty certain it's the creeping variety.

 

[The Fuzzy Furry]

Headland Polo is pretty good for all the 3 main varieties of buttercup, you just need to get it on there before they start flowering (when in bud) to get best effect.
Am gnashing my teeth as mine should have been done end last week and due to on-off damp or breeze, we've had to wait so far

 

[kat2290]

Thanks for that info Oliver, v helpful

Does anybody know if there is a good broad lead weed killer that will get rid of the buttercups, leave and grass alone AND doesn't need require a license? I have just been spot treating the foxgloves and hogweed, only managed about a quarter of the field and I'm totally fed up, and that's before I've even started on the buttercup. I've given up after an hour and a half and come in for a cuppa

 

[kat2290]

I have just been googling 'weed killer for horse paddock' and there are quite a few results from various American horsey forums which last quite a few weed killers which are safe to use while your horse is still grazing... I'm sceptical as to whether this is true or not but if it is are there not any similar products in this country? My main problem at the moment is that I can't find any fencing to borrow (or buy cheap 2nd hand) to fence off the bits that need spraying so I'm a bit stuck

 

[Liane]

You might want to have a look at Grazon 90, I didn't need a licence to get it and seems to have killed (rather quickly) nettles, thistles, docks and ragwort and it doesn't kill the grass. Not sure about buttercups though.

 

[HappyHooves]

There was a super useful thread here awhile ago that said you could get a landowner number from MAFF or the like ( have applied for mine) that allowed you to buy weedkillers and spray your own land. Also there was a reference to an index of weeds and their best killers. Will try to find it unless, of course, it was RutlandH2O again?!

 

[kat2290]

Thanks both, happyhooves if you can find the thread I will love you forever!

It's just occurred to me that I have a friend who is a landscape gardener so I'm sure he would be able to get hold of some spray for me, and apply it if needs be. Duh don't know why I didn't think of that sooner!

I've decided I'm just going to buy my own fence posts and tape/wire. It will be the quickest and probably simplest solution and I'm sure it will come in handy again at some point. I'm not going to bother getting an energiser for now, I'll see how it goes and if I end up needing on I can always buy one at a later date.

So that brings me on to my next question! Where is the best place to get cheap posts and tape from? I've found a few websites and a couple of sellers on ebay but recommendations would be great. I really want to spend as little as possible but I'm happy to pay a bit extra to get something which isn't going to snap as soon as I push it in to the ground!

 

[RutlandH2O]

There was a super useful thread here awhile ago that said you could get a landowner number from MAFF or the like ( have applied for mine) that allowed you to buy weedkillers and spray your own land. Also there was a reference to an index of weeds and their best killers. Will try to find it unless, of course, it was RutlandH2O again?!

I wasn't the one who posted the thread about landowner numbers from Defra.

I did post information about a company called ProGreen and how they have a Guide to Selective Weedkillers for Paddocks that kills the weeds and not the grass. This guide rates the efficacy of the different products to specific weeds. It also lists whether a product can be applied with a knapsack or boom sprayer, the size of the containers in which they come, the area of coverage, and the length of time animals must be kept off the sprayed fields.

Nowhere is there information about landowner numbers being required to purchase and spray one's own land. I just ordered 2 containers of Kaskara, no questions asked.

Please be aware that there is a serious mislabelling sentence on every product used to eradicate ragwort. This is an industry-wide mistake that must be addressed by the Chemical Directives agency if it is to be changed. The sentence reads: "Keep livestock out of treated areas until poisonous weeds, such as Ragwort, have died and become unpalatable." RAGWORT BECOMES PALATABLE WHEN DEAD. Please remove all dead ragwort if your animals are being returned to the sprayed fields within 2 weeks to several months. If your fields will not be grazed for more than 6 months or longer, the action of the weather should cause the dead ragwort to completely decompose. For me, I would be removing all dead ragwort.

Go to ProGreen.co.uk and then click on "Weed Killers" for the Guide to appear on screen.

 

[OWLIE185]

We use a different approach. We use a cut and collector (This is pulled along by a full size tractor) about every 2 - 4 weeks in the growing season. This cuts everything at a pre-specified height and collects it in a hopper and can then be safely disposed of. By using this technique nettles, thistles etc. give up the ghost not to come back.