i think i tmay be a tad to wide. once girthed up and a rider on i wouldnt be surprised if you couldnt fit any fingers underneath as it was touching the withers.
I think I agree but it depends exactly what angle those withers slope away at! Having had a high withered TB and had the usual saddle fitting saga, most saddlers seem to try and follow the angle of the withers more closely rather than ending up with a perched saddle.
OP do you have any mounted pics?
It's almost impossible to see from photos, we need to be there in person and go over the saddle, horse and rider with a fine tooth comb to be really sure.
Oz
as said difficult to tell, whats it like with a rider on? I was told if theres muscle wastage (not sure if there is obviously) its better to have a wider saddle and pad out as long as there clearance over the spine than keep going narrower
I dont have any ridden pics, but you are able to get two fingers in between horse and saddle.
Horse does need more topline - unfortunatly didnt have much work over summer, nor has he been given as much food as he needed to maintain condition (he is getting it now though!)
The saddle is a cut back head on it so does look slightly different to other saddles.
I have had a good look at it myself (as I have been told its pinching him), and looked slightly low at withers, but nothing to bad.
Just after opinions before my next course of action with it!
dont think you can fit saddles on the internet!! but looks too close without a rider, you really need a saddle fitter in person to see with and without a rider!
Too wide. The front of the saddle is resting on the withers - no clearance for the gullet over the spine. And it's lower than the back. Front and back should be about level.
It's not resting on the withers - there looks to be good clearance laterally are well.
It doesn't matter what the wither clearance is as long as there IS clearance at all times, both from above and from the sides (very common problem is the saddle pressing in from the side when bending)
Fitting a saddle to give you three fingers clearance is GUIDE not an essential. For many very high withered horses 3 fingers is far too much. For many flat no-withered cobs, 3 fingers isn't enough.
The correct width should be determined but the angle of the tree points, NOT the height of wither clearance! Get the angle correct THEN look at clearance. If it's not enough you either get a split pad to lift it slightly and give clearance, or try a different saddle with a cut back head, or more dropped panels.
The width of that saddle is a little hard to judge as, without seeing it in the flesh, it's not easy to guess where the points are. Usually they line up with the rolled edge at the front, but not always. Going on that assumption, if anything the saddle looks a smidgen too NARROW, not wide. The panels sit nicely on his ribcage (as they should, not the withers) and I suspect he's wider then he looks there.
The balance possibily actually look ok- pommel and cantel should NOT be level! - the cantle should be slightly higher than the pommel. It's the middle of the saddle that matters - the lowest point (where you're going to be made to sit) should be in the MIDDLE of the saddle, so your weight is even distributed front and back. The picture angle isn't quite right it looks like the pommel is slightly too high and you'd be made to sit a little too far back. You'd need a proper side-on photo to decide properly though. Once someone's on it might sink a little though, which would be perfect (as long as there still is wither clearance). Far far too many saddle make you sit behind the balance point, since the pommels too high.
Depending on how much it sinks once someone's aboard it looks pretty good, from what can be told from some not-great pictures. The