Which bit for a strong cob???

[claire95]

I own a 15.2 gypsy cob mare and when I first bought her she was ridden in an eggbutt snaffle however she was becoming extremely strong and dangerous to ride so I put her in a Dutch gag where I only ever used the first or second ring and she was much better. However as it's loose ring and needs rubbers and my mare has such a pink muzzle, it rubs the sides of her mouth and leaves her sore. She was tried with just a snaffle this week and she had no brakes and tanked off! Does anybody have any suggestions about a different bit I could try? Several people have advised me to get a pelham but take the curb chain off and to use rounders, what do you think?

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Miss L Toe]

Remember, the more you pull they harder they resist, how was it becoming dangerous?
I like a lozenge snaffle, and have ridden very few strong horses, .... some just like to take a hold of the bit, canter them up a hill and they soon become amenable. If she is forward going and you are used to average plods, then you need to loosen up, work, and walk, no hard feed.
Needs rubbers, why, it may be too small.
Ride with the body not the reins.

 

[AndySpooner]

Remember, the more you pull they harder they resist, how was it becoming dangerous?
I like a lozenge snaffle, and have ridden very few strong horses, .... some just like to take a hold of the bit, canter them up a hill and they soon become amenable. If she is forward going and you are used to average plods, then you need to loosen up, work, and walk, no hard feed.
Needs rubbers, why, it may be too small.
Ride with the body not the reins.

^^Agree^^ You shouldn't fall into the trap of believing that a stronger bit is the answer. The bit is not a brake, if you use it as one you will end up in a battle of stronger bits and displaced behaviour.

 

[potty_4_piebalds]

Hi I had a very strong gypsy cob that would just get hold of the bit and tank so I tried most bits apart from a pelham and found he loved his cherry roller, But as others have said its not just the bit that can be the problem/solution a lot of lessons helped us as well as a bit that he liked x

 

[Toffee44]

Used to ride mine in american gag with roller only used it a month and he went back to a snaffle

 

[MiJodsR2BlinkinTite]

I've got a Waterford with cheek pieces for mine for those "special occasions"; I don't ride it all the time, usually use a Happy Mouth with lozenge - but this is for times like hunting or whatever when I need good brakes!

IME gags often make a situation worse not better; some horses, especially cobs, don't like the action and you might find you get another evasion happening to avoid the gag action.

 

[Jennyharvey]

This is what i replied on another thread, but i think it might also help you.

I tend to agree here. I think what is important is to establish brakes, instead of just using bigger ones. As you say your horse is sensitive, if i were u i would like to keep her in the mildest bit available. But what you have to do is teach her what the aids are. The bit is not for control, but for communication. Unfortunately soo many people think of the bit as the 'brakes', so if you cant stop a horse in one bit, they tend to move on to a stronger one, to see if that works.

What i would do is lots of transitions, walk to halt, trot to halts. But the main thing is to remember to give the reins as soon as the horse responds. People just tend to sit with a constant contact, so the horse never gets a reward for doing the right thing. When you ask the horse to stop, release the reins and reward the horse. I normally like to do this on a slack rein, this way the horse can learn to feel a very subtle change in contact. So you pick up the rein, the horse stops, you give the rein and reward. This way the horse learns that by stopping and getting the release, that they are doing the right thing. After all, horses tend to learn from pressure and release. Once the horse can halt well from a walk, try halting from the trot. as soon as the horse stops, release and reward. I normally ask for a backup straight after a halt, this way the horse learns to think STOP faster if u ask for a backup. By doing this, the horse will start to associate the stop with a light ask from the reins, (i also use a Woow voice command too), so you should be able to stop from any pace on command. Its important to have the horse light aswell. You dont want the horse to lean against you, or raise its head. The head should be low, mouth soft and relaxed, never ask for a wow or backup if the head is high, this hollows the back.
By asking and releasing, the horse will learn to soften and respond better, so hopefully if done right, the horse will learn not to tank off because as soon as you ask for a stop, they respond straight away.

Sorry for the essay, hope it helps somewhat.

 

[foxy1]

This is what i replied on another thread, but i think it might also help you.

I tend to agree here. I think what is important is to establish brakes, instead of just using bigger ones. As you say your horse is sensitive, if i were u i would like to keep her in the mildest bit available. But what you have to do is teach her what the aids are. The bit is not for control, but for communication. Unfortunately soo many people think of the bit as the 'brakes', so if you cant stop a horse in one bit, they tend to move on to a stronger one, to see if that works.

What i would do is lots of transitions, walk to halt, trot to halts. But the main thing is to remember to give the reins as soon as the horse responds. People just tend to sit with a constant contact, so the horse never gets a reward for doing the right thing. When you ask the horse to stop, release the reins and reward the horse. I normally like to do this on a slack rein, this way the horse can learn to feel a very subtle change in contact. So you pick up the rein, the horse stops, you give the rein and reward. This way the horse learns that by stopping and getting the release, that they are doing the right thing. After all, horses tend to learn from pressure and release. Once the horse can halt well from a walk, try halting from the trot. as soon as the horse stops, release and reward. I normally ask for a backup straight after a halt, this way the horse learns to think STOP faster if u ask for a backup. By doing this, the horse will start to associate the stop with a light ask from the reins, (i also use a Woow voice command too), so you should be able to stop from any pace on command. Its important to have the horse light aswell. You dont want the horse to lean against you, or raise its head. The head should be low, mouth soft and relaxed, never ask for a wow or backup if the head is high, this hollows the back.
By asking and releasing, the horse will learn to soften and respond better, so hopefully if done right, the horse will learn not to tank off because as soon as you ask for a stop, they respond straight away.

Sorry for the essay, hope it helps somewhat.

Agree. What's needed here is more training

 

[AndySpooner]

This is what i replied on another thread, but i think it might also help you.

I tend to agree here. I think what is important is to establish brakes, instead of just using bigger ones. As you say your horse is sensitive, if i were u i would like to keep her in the mildest bit available. But what you have to do is teach her what the aids are. The bit is not for control, but for communication. Unfortunately soo many people think of the bit as the 'brakes', so if you cant stop a horse in one bit, they tend to move on to a stronger one, to see if that works.

What i would do is lots of transitions, walk to halt, trot to halts. But the main thing is to remember to give the reins as soon as the horse responds. People just tend to sit with a constant contact, so the horse never gets a reward for doing the right thing. When you ask the horse to stop, release the reins and reward the horse. I normally like to do this on a slack rein, this way the horse can learn to feel a very subtle change in contact. So you pick up the rein, the horse stops, you give the rein and reward. This way the horse learns that by stopping and getting the release, that they are doing the right thing. After all, horses tend to learn from pressure and release. Once the horse can halt well from a walk, try halting from the trot. as soon as the horse stops, release and reward. I normally ask for a backup straight after a halt, this way the horse learns to think STOP faster if u ask for a backup. By doing this, the horse will start to associate the stop with a light ask from the reins, (i also use a Woow voice command too), so you should be able to stop from any pace on command. Its important to have the horse light aswell. You dont want the horse to lean against you, or raise its head. The head should be low, mouth soft and relaxed, never ask for a wow or backup if the head is high, this hollows the back.
By asking and releasing, the horse will learn to soften and respond better, so hopefully if done right, the horse will learn not to tank off because as soon as you ask for a stop, they respond straight away.

Sorry for the essay, hope it helps somewhat.

Spot on.

 

[vicksey]

I've got a Waterford with cheek pieces for mine for those "special occasions"; I don't ride it all the time, usually use a Happy Mouth with lozenge - but this is for times like hunting or whatever when I need good brakes!

IME gags often make a situation worse not better; some horses, especially cobs, don't like the action and you might find you get another evasion happening to avoid the gag action.

I also have to agree with what others are saying and I never quite beleived it myself ubtil I started putting some schooling in and ground work. I also the Waterford with full cheek, but only ever put it in when things are going a bit wrong, i have it in for about 1 week then put my NS verbidend snaffle back in. I always try and ride in a snaffle, I also have a Full cheek french link but havent used it for a while. I know how you are feeling as my cob is very very strong at time and I cant stop or steer but it has got better over time and with some schooling, slow hacking and ground work. Good Luck!