Why is he worse on the lead?

Boxers

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My GSD is a year old. He isn't very good with people coming to the house but will usually settle if you let him sniff and inspect the visitor and the visitor remains calm and does not make eye contact.

Now out on a walk he is fine with people and other dogs when he is off lead, but as soon as you put the lead on he become aggressive towards people/dogs.

Why is this?

We have just started a course of socialisation classes (yes, i know, we should have taken him months ago!)
 
Fearful dogs can be worse on lead as by restraining them you have removed one of their options for escaping the fear. F reeze, F light or F ight (the three 'F's). By putting on the lead you have removed the 'Flight' option, most dogs will then take the other option that is easiest for them - FIGHT.

It is a common problem, especially with guarding breeds. My own Dobe is terrible with other dogs when on lead, off lead he will come when called away.

Good luck at your socialisation classes, you are right, you should have gone ages ago but we can all be wise on hindsight, try not to get too stressed out at your classes, treat it as a fun night out for you and your dog. I well remember the first training class I took my late Dobe girl, Cassie, to, she bit every other dog in the class. I was mortified and very nearly didn't go back. So just enjoy it and remember - hindsight is a wonderful thing!
 
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My own Dobe is terrible with other dogs when on lead, off lead he will come when called away.


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Thats the same here.And I have a Dobe too.
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I know it's hard but try and be conscious of your own body language. You're probably tensing up without realising it and making it worse. If you come across another dog, have him "look at you" and heel, and once he complies, give him a small treat.
 
Agree with VIZZIE LOVER and PROSE..........It can be common in these large guarding breeds you need to be aware of your own body language(alot of owners tend to start wrapping ther lead around their hand to keep the dog closer and gain more control).........as this can heighten your dogs reaction...........socialisation classes would be good.....teaching him basic commands.....and also taking his focus of the situation and onto to you.
We had a dalmation in our rescue that used to lunge at people when passing them.....I started to take treats out with me.......(soft) like cheese cut into small pieces........this could be consumed fast and easy allowing me to keep the dogs attention.......(I would only ever give this in a training session and at no other time)I never altered his leash lenghth just walked him on the outside so I was always between the passer by and the dog(whilst training him)
I would allow him to sniff and lick at the treat as the stranger was approaching.....but would only allow him to take and consume the treat at the exact time we passed the passer by.......I would always give him a command of WATCH ME......he eventually assosiated the treat with passing the stranger.........and began to look up to me when we passed people in the street.

At the same time I also took him to my mams training class to teach him basic socialisation and heel work.

Good Luck in your training
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I had the exact same problem with my rescue lurcher and this is the advice the behaviourist attached to the rescue gave me. Like a previous poster said it's a fear thing and when he's on the lead his options are removed but this should sort him out.....

Put the dog on a 'gentle leader' while out walking (this is a bit like a halti only kinder) As soon as you see someone approaching give the dog lots of encouraging sounds....'good boy, well done, etc......and gently steer the dog in the opposite direction all the time praising. This way the dog knows that it does not have to confront it's fears and you are in control. As time goes on and his fear lessens you can start introducing him to people, as you can instruct them to act in the appropriate manner. Approach them and begin talking but completely ignore the dog and ask the person you're speaking to to do the same. Ask them to avoid eye contact and hold the back of one hand out to allow the dog to sniff but at no stage to talk to the dog. When you move on give lots of praise and reassurance. As time goes on you can then start introducing dogs that you know won't react badly to your dog and allow them to sniff but always walk in the opposite direction if he reacts badly to one so he knows you are in control again.

It's a long process but it really worked for me. Alfie was totally socially unacceptable but now he's quite a lamb and people comment on how much better he is. The walking in the opposite direction bit is a pain as it can make a walk last twice as long so I sometimes tried to find a driveway or path to go up and wait, with our backs turned, until the other person/dog had passed. Ask people you know to help you with the training by approaching while you are out walking and practicing the second stage if you aren't confident about asking strangers to follow the instructions at first.
 
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