12 weeks, bright and going to be big - what to teach her?

pennyturner

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Hi. I have a new puppy (yey!). She's a Ridgeback x Cane corso, so she will be a big, athletic girl.

At 12 weeks she walks nicely on the lead, knows sit, stay/wait, come, paw, leave it (80%) and starting to get lie down. She's also lost her 'puppy biting', and is starting to understand that playing with paws, not teeth, goes down better with the other dogs, although this needs much more work (my rottie is mostly doing that bit of training - she has the patience of Job).

This seems to me to be pretty good for such a young one, and it occurs to me that I have never had a dog quite this bright. I would like to keep her interested. Heel off lead is next... but what else could I do?

The aim is to produce a family dog that I can safely take anywhere. Ideas?
 

Roxylola

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Oh bless her she is doing great. Have a look on youtube at martinis ranch, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUmHNOpGrjE she does puppy agility training but it is loads of fun stuff. She sounds really bright. I would consider working towards an emergency stop, really useful for when you break cups etc!
I taught my springer to go for a named toy and also left and right paw, without a hand cue eventually. Not much use but impressive tricks :D
 

gunnergundog

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Good life skills to teach in my opinion are:

- being steady to shot, crow scarers and fireworks
- being steady around livestock of all descriptions
- being comfortable being confined to a crate......easier to teach now rather than when dog ruptures a cruciate ligament or needs confinement for veterinary reasons several years down the line
- being happy alone. You have another dog but there may come a time when your pup is on her own so ensuring there is no separation anxiety now is easier than tackling it later in life.
- travelling in a car/bus/train
- settling and relaxing on lead whilst you are sat down in a beer garden enjoying a glass or two!
- meeting and greeting strangers on and off lead with all four paws on the ground...very important for a big dog! Everyone thinks they are cute at 12 weeks and re-inforce or encourage jumping up but funnily enough they ain't so keen when dog is fully mature!
- exposure to children
- exposure to traffic, cyclists, skate boarders, scooters etc etc
- exposure to the automatic sliding doors you get in some shops and railway stations

There are a hundred and one things you can do to help create a calm confident dog that is a pleasure to live with and which can be taken anywhere.

If you are looking for a specific cue to teach rather than experiential things then a 'watch me' to teach focus is very useful in many circumstances. Oh, and looking back, I don't think you mentioned recall (with and without distractions!).

There's so much to expose a pup to that needs to be done early on that there really are not enough hours in the day!
 

pennyturner

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Good life skills to teach in my opinion are:

- being steady to shot, crow scarers and fireworks
- being steady around livestock of all descriptions
- being comfortable being confined to a crate......easier to teach now rather than when dog ruptures a cruciate ligament or needs confinement for veterinary reasons several years down the line
- being happy alone. You have another dog but there may come a time when your pup is on her own so ensuring there is no separation anxiety now is easier than tackling it later in life.
- travelling in a car/bus/train
- settling and relaxing on lead whilst you are sat down in a beer garden enjoying a glass or two!
- meeting and greeting strangers on and off lead with all four paws on the ground...very important for a big dog! Everyone thinks they are cute at 12 weeks and re-inforce or encourage jumping up but funnily enough they ain't so keen when dog is fully mature!
- exposure to children
- exposure to traffic, cyclists, skate boarders, scooters etc etc
- exposure to the automatic sliding doors you get in some shops and railway stations

There are a hundred and one things you can do to help create a calm confident dog that is a pleasure to live with and which can be taken anywhere.

If you are looking for a specific cue to teach rather than experiential things then a 'watch me' to teach focus is very useful in many circumstances. Oh, and looking back, I don't think you mentioned recall (with and without distractions!).

There's so much to expose a pup to that needs to be done early on that there really are not enough hours in the day!

Great list. Hasn't been on public transport yet, but she's a pro in the car. Need to find some sheep/cattle/llamas, but she she's seen plenty of horses and chickens, including little chicks.

The steady to shot one is interesting if you don't shoot yourself... happily we live next door to a shooting school, and the other dogs can be taken to firework displays (on a lead or the setter runs in) without complaint, so shouldn't be a problem.

Everything else on your list has already been covered. Walked her off lead in a busy lakeside park today. Recall was there even when playing in the water with new doggy friends. She doesn't miss a thing - one eye seems always to be on me. Decided to work on heel (off lead), and she had it down within 2 minutes. She also learned 'up' (onto a log or a stump, not a person!) whilst we were playing, and seemed very happy that something so easy got her a treat!

She almost made it into the back of the 4x4 on command when we got back, but needed a hand up the bum... it was just that bit too high. Has already worked out that I expect her to wait when I open the door for a 'down' command before getting out!
 

Roxylola

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Oh what a love! training to go to a "place" and settle is useful too - especially if you use a little blanket that you can fold up and take with you (and cut down as she gets better)
 

CorvusCorax

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Sounds like you've got everything covered. As a mix of two large breeds I wouldn't advocate encouraging her to scramble on/jump off particularly high surfaces until her joints are more mature. Including getting in and out of the car.
'Down' to me is 'lie down on the floor'...if you want to teach her to get off a high surface I'd use a word like 'off'.

I'd also expect things to unravel a little one she becomes mentally mature and genetic traits start to surface, as with any 'teenage' dog.
They like to lull you into a false sense of security at this age ;)
 

Clodagh

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Socialisation with strangers.
My farrier has a cane corso x GSD and she was a lovely, bright and friendly puppy who used to go out on his rounds. She has now put two people in hospital, who walked into her back garden, (they were having building work done and the builders were expected, human error I know.). She guards his wife fanatically and dangerously. With two breeds like that I am sure hunting/guarding will soon surface.
 

splashgirl45

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thankyou for the video, she looks lovely but at 12 weeks they look to us for reassurance, once she is more confident she may not recall so well so it would be worth doing lots of recalls to really get the habit installed...my puppy is 15 weeks and his recall is also very good but i am sure it will deteriorate once he feels more mature and wants to explore further...
 

Cinnamontoast

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Invest in a little ramp or plank for the car. I don't think she should be jumping into or out of cars yet and she'll be too big to lift soon.

I like hand signals, it's very helpful when the dog is at a distance. My lot are trained to recall on three pips of the whistle, very useful in the woods. The look at me and leave it command have been life savers for me.
 

pennyturner

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Thanks everyone. I'm under no illusion that the real test comes in about 6 months time. That said, I was expecting the same with my rottie, and her teenage rebellion amounted to one growl in a moment of 'I don't want to get off the sofa'. I was displeased, she was chastised, and that was that.

Everything I do now is with the aim of avoiding that 'unexpected builder' moment. I have ignored the advice about keeping them in until 12 weeks, as that time is just so valuable to establish their social expectations. We live in an isolated spot, but with lots of people coming and going, including groups of excited children, and builder friends who have the use of our yard, so lots of odd noises too. Hopefully all this, and very stable resident older dogs, will be enough to raise a steady, friendly girl.

I know one thing; she'll never go near a chicken again... she accidentally went too close to one with the new chicks yesterday, and it attacked her the length of the yard - she was terrified, and squealed like an injured piglet!
 

Clodagh

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I know one thing; she'll never go near a chicken again... she accidentally went too close to one with the new chicks yesterday, and it attacked her the length of the yard - she was terrified, and squealed like an injured piglet!

That is so funny, our broodies have educated many a dog and hound puppy about the perils of poultry!
I must say farrier's dog is gorgeous, and when out with him is a lovely relaxed girl, I am sure you will have loads of fun with her. And no risk of burglars with her and a rottie!!
 

Umbongo

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From a veterinary point of view, get her used to having her feet, nails, ears, mouth etc touched.
If you are thinking about brushing her teeth, start doing it now.
 

pippixox

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i you need to keep her mind occupied but without putting too much strain on her growing body- look at doing tricks!
I have started them with my 2yo rescue collie. Great on days we have only shorter walks or I can't take her out while baby naps. She used to go to classes- and was exhausted, mostly mentally, after 30 minutes

you can teach skills that may be useful- but a lot of the tricks are just fun! really helps them use their brain. you can see videos on you-tube.
 

MotherOfChickens

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scentwork-really tires them mentally and is a good game to have on hot or nasty weather days even when they are older. can be used to consolidate other commands too later on.
 

MotherOfChickens

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How do you start scent work MoC? Not something I've ever done.

I'll try and find some resources for you. There are several different ways to do it but the following was how we did it.

You start really basic-put a treat in an open box, let them get the treat on a command (search/find etc). Then several treats in several different boxes. Then 2 treats out of the several boxes-so they get the idea they have to search, repeating each stage until they are confident and consistant. You can then progess to luggage or furniture inside or out (be aware of how wind can affect them) and cars. I then started wrapping scented cloth (I use gun oil but you can use catnip/oil of cloves-just put in sealed jar with pieces of cloth for a couple of days at least) around treats and build up as before.

Pretty quickly you can change to scent only and reward at source and actually when you switch to scent only they focus much better ime. Slowly you build up their passive indication at scent so they hold it. I now use scented Ikea mice and rats :D and they have to find, retrieve to hand etc. I found it really helps things like sit/down/stay/directional commands as then the reward for doing the command is the fun one to look for the scent etc. Both of them love it-Quarrie's been doing it since he was 14 weeks old but I've seen younger puppies doing it.
 

GirlFriday

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Honestly, with that mix the most important things are probably around not scaring people (and other animals).

So, the leave-it needs to be 100%; get her to do sit/down/return to heel from a distance away from you. And, later, also respond to commands form other people. Mine is not anything like 100% on this (although improving) but, worst case scenario, can be picked up and moved by anyone as approx cat-sized!

Plenty of useful cute tricks possible too... I like getting them used to backing around obstacles for when we end up on opposite sides of things mid-walk on a lead. Then going to particular places (you can start with 'flat' agility, e.g. she doesn't have to jump on to anything yet, but can be asked to walk along, e.g. an old scarf or go to a blanket on the floor etc is fun and handy too.
 

Aru

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socialisation socialisation socialisation.
You've only got a few weeks of that optimum time left so id make the most of it.

Shes a mix of two large breed's, one a hunting/gaurding type and the other famed for guarding ability and banned/on dangerous dog lists across the world. Both beautiful..but not for the faint hearted.

I would be very much trying to combat the natural aloofness and potential guarding issues with a massive amount of socialisation at a young age to help her be more accepting with strangers when she's hitting maturity ( though if you have a rotty you will be better prepared then most) If you were at our vet practice we would encourage you to bring her in as often as possible for desensitisation and treats in the quiet times of day so she thinks yeah food and fun place.... not that horrible building where they manhandle thermometer and needle me.

If you want her to be good with kids start introducing her to their sounds erraticness etc now- training or even sitting near playgrounds are good for this if your in a built up area. little people in the family are also very helpful.

otherwise the basics for any large dog. all feet on the floor to greet people, a watch me command is always helpful to refocus them.as is a solid leave it/drop it....drop down..ie a down when loose, is really helpful as well but a bit tricky to teach until they are good at recall.heel.

Learning to be alone and be secure in that is something every dog should learn imo.

basic handling of feet,teeth, ears,eyes tail etc.... by "strangers" as well as you....most dogs will tolerate their owners handling them but its strangers manhandling they are scared of/take offence to, would also be helpful.

I'm a massive fan of crate and muzzle training as well,as being familiar with both those things make vet visits significantly less stressful if confinement or a muzzle is ever required but thats probably overkill for young pup just yet...

But above all else at this age id want a pup out and about- carry her if she's not finished the vac course, having as any new and positive experiences with people as I could. The early socialisation window is pretty narrow and it does make a difference.
 

GirlFriday

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Shes a mix of two large breed's, one a hunting/gaurding type and the other famed for guarding ability and banned/on dangerous dog lists across the world. Both beautiful..but not for the faint hearted.

Actually, thinking this through, this probably isn't a dog I'd be happy to meet off-lead in public. Not with a child & small dog in-tow. So, lots of training building to something that will keep her occupied on-lead. Maybe the scent work idea (although don't think either breed is known to be good at that, they presumably are both bred more for tearing to bits things they can actually see?) Was this a deliberate mating if you don't mind me asking OP? And will you also be using her for guarding or something? Doesn't sound like it and you sound like a very responsible owner but, having recently paid the price (financial and emotional) of meeting a breeding male of one of these breeds off-lead (mine was on-lead) I would now actively leave a park with one in unless it was on (substantial) lead. Simply too much risk that one bite means curtains for my small fluffy one.
 

Equi

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Shes adorable. But i agree she will be a breed type most will "run" from, so you need to prepare yourself for that. I think a lot of the problems with dogs of certain breeds comes from people not using that trait...for example city folk having a collie and then not being able to control them chasing cars.

Prepare for her to guard the house, but correct her for guarding people or certain things...(toys, bowls etc) and as said get her out as much as possible.

I have to admit i agree with GF id be a bit weary with her off lead, even well trained, as there is only so much training can do. Traits are traits for a reason...
 

pennyturner

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We wanted another large dog, a mastiff type, but going for a cross breed that would give us a lighter weight and healthier version. Many huge breeds don't live all that long, unfortunately.
We are fortunate enough to live away from other people. I won't say it's a bad thing to have a big dog with you when you're going out at 2am to investigate a noise, but she's certainly not a guard dog. If she learns manners from the rottie, I will be delighted, as she has the best temperament of any dog I have ever met, but I'm not taking it for granted, hence the socialization, training and exposure as early as possible, and seeking further ideas from you guys!

So far, so good - she's lovely; a pleasure inside the house and out. She has started playing football with the rottie :)
 

pennyturner

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'Stay', especially combined with 'Down'.

It was a vry useful one for my GSDxRottie as I could have him drop down and stay down from the other side of a playing field.

I use an arm upright signal for 'sit' with my setter (who doesn't do 'close control') - do you use something similar for 'down', that they can see even if they can't hear you?

Also, for distance (again, with the setter - rottie never goes that far, although she does know the commands), I use a whistle - 3 quick pips is come, one long is sit/stay. Do you use a whistle, or rely on voice?
 

MrsMozart

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It's about twenty years ago and I can't really remember... I have a very travelling voice and he always had me in his sight/hearing. I probably used a full arm downward motion as well as the voice. Tried a whistle but he didn't like it.

Have a GSD now but she won't go far enough from me to be an issue.
 

Alec Swan

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I'm really sorry to say this pennyturner, but I do wonder, if in time you too may wonder just why you bought a cross-breed from two separate breeds, both of which are known to be difficult, the C_C particularly so. The Ridgeback as a breed is often described as being 'reserved'. The dog's 'reservations' can often translate as being nervous and when put to a dog, the C_C which can be particularly aggressive, it would be highly unlikely that a balanced temperament would be the result. Those who produce these designer breeds do so because they seem to have a ready market for the pups, and why, is beyond me.

I'm genuinely sorry to make such negative and damning comments, but feel that it will serve you better than a load of pointless oohing and aahing! It may well be that your pup goes against the flow and proves to be an excellent and well adjusted dog and no one will be more pleased than I to be wrong.

The only, or at least the most useful advice that I can give you is that (and though I'd normally be opposed to this) you start as you mean to go on. When your pup goes past her teens and should she prove to be a little more self-willed and determined than you'd hoped for, (read stubborn) and particularly should she show signs of aggression towards anything two legged or four, that you concentrate on the problems and make her face them under your terms.

Again, I will be delighted to be wrong, and I only hope that I am.

Alec.
 
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