7 month old puppy weeing at night

J

Jennypenny

Well-Known Member
Joined
8 January 2008
Messages
298
Location
Northamptonshire
Visit site
Hi All, I just seen the thread below on puppy training and just wanted to ask if a puppy can hold there bladder at night by 7 months of age.

I have a healthy 7 month old JRT puppy and two adult dogs who are house trained & one cat. In the day time the puppy is ok with the very rare accident. She is left up to about 4 hours at a time in the day. At night she tends to do a wee and sometimes a poo. Some nights she is ok, but I usually wake up to a puddle in the same spot. (not by the back door) I did have about three weeks were she was fine and did nothing and then started again. I let the dogs out at night before bed about 11pm and I am up at 6.30am to take them out for the morning walkies up the fields.

Should she be ok by now, or do some dogs take a bit longer? When I first got her, I did use a crate her for a couple of months. This made no difference with effect to her toilet training. I do need to use a crate for one off my adult dogs due to his history of separation issues from before I had him. (got him from a rescue home) with a lot of hard work and time, he is now great to be left but needs his crate. So I am happy to use a crate but this didnt help her with her house training. Should I try again?
 
How large was the crate? It needs to be quite small (only big enough for them to lie out in) so they don't have the option of going to the toilet in there.... so it's only big enough for their bed, and most dogs won't want to toilet in their bed.

If she is always going on the same spot, how are you cleaning it up? You need to use somehing that will totally remove every trace. Pets at Home sell a spray called Wash and Get Off, which not only removes the smell, but also contains something that would discourage them from using the same spot again.

Harley went through the night at 10 weeks.... But he is a large breed. Apparently small breeds take longer. I remember when I took him in for his 2nd jab, the vet (who has collies) was very jealous as his took months!
 
Hi, she is fed twice a day. In the morning about 8am and at night about 7pm on dry food. Yes it was a large crate. Shall I try a small one then? I clean the wee with a flash type floor cleaner and add bleach to it as well.
 
I personally would cut the late meal out, esp as its a dry meal which will make her drink more then u can limit water over night, if weight is ok, one meal will suffice per day (breakfast time) this will help her hold over night, crate for a j.r.t should be the size of a large cat carrier, this will also encourage her to hold.
 
You certainly could keep her on 2 meals as suggested, I was/not sure if I mentioned that, and could feed it earlier obs.
However there is no real need to, it's more an owner choice, mine dont get 2 meals and my pup, has been on 1 meal from 6 months as her weight is/has always been fine.

But u can do :D just don't need too:D
 
Also jsut a thought re food, if u are re introducing the crate u will need to place her in there for periods during the day aswell as night so a kong filled with treats, (chicken/her food mixed with tuna or sardines) things like those as fillers to associate the crate as a positive and occupy her when u are out, count them as food, some would be surprised how much "extra" they give in meals and treats and pacifiers when left or crated and it certainly has to come out somewhere;) if u are giving her treats/kong then def don't feed 2 meals (if her weight is fine) the treats/kong will make up for a meal, but as suggested make sure it's given alot earlier.
 
Can I jump on this thread?

My puppy who is coming up 5 months does both wee and the other :p in his bed.
He will do this even when he isn't shut in his crate (door left open). He is also quite happy to lie and sleep on it :eek:.

He is good for going out for a wee, will do a nice big one and will then come in and do another one, usually in his crate. If his crate is closed, he'll go anywhere, he's not fussy :(.

So, what to do about that?
 
I just wrote huge reply to another user in PM, it may have helped u :rolleyes::D

What are u feeding? how often?
How big is your crate? :p

You may need to use the "move the pad technique" :D
 
CAYLA said:
I just wrote huge reply to another user in PM, it may have helped u :rolleyes::D

What are u feeding? how often?
How big is your crate? :p

You may need to use the "move the pad technique" :D
Click to expand...

He is fed Royal Canin (recommended amount) 3 times a day, last feed at 4pm. He gets a kong with JWB treats in when left in the morning. He gets a treat for peeing outside.

His crate fits his bed in with small gap down the side, enough space for his water bowl ... which he will also pee in :rolleyes:.

Getting him to pee on a pad/paper would be a start, given the choice, he'd rather pee on his bed. He has 2, one in crate and one out near the radiator for when I'm home. He's not fussy, he will pee on either of them :(.

I think he might be a hopeless case :(.

He is proving quite difficult to train. His recall in the house is worse than bad, so much so that I thought he was deaf :o. He is brilliant when out though :).

So, I call him, he doesn't come. If I shake his treat tub he does and I reward him. I try not to do this every time but if I go and get him, I can't catch the little sod because he is like muck off a shovel and I am not :o:cool:. It then becomes a game, so we don't do that too often.
Let's say he's in a room with me and I leave and want him to come with me, I call him, he ignores me. I don't want to go and find his treat tub, so go to get behind him and scoot him out, I cant get behind him :( as he jumps around and does wall of death around the room. It usually resorts to me stepping quite far outside the door, getting down on the floor and making him think we're going to play. I then have to shoot to the door to shut it before he shoots back in. It is very tiring :rolleyes:.

He is a very fast, nippy (and trying :rolleyes:) Italian Greyhound if that helps.

* OP - Sorry for hijacking your thread * .... you can read smugly thinking ooh, mine doesn't do that :D *
 
I.G come in the whippet "a bit harder to train bracket" due to their like of comfort and dislike of outdoors in the cold and pitting on somthing that causes splash back;) which nice thick comfy beds do not:D, I have dealt with a few I.G's with prolonged training issues that have been murder to train, obs not all.

I would leave the water bowl out of the crate, just let him drink when he is released and leave the bowl in the kitchen.

In this instance I would try a not so comfy smaller bed in the crate, a flat type bed and a pad in the other half of the crate, this would be to encourage passing on the pad in this instance rather than the crate, he is still very young and I have seen them literally reduce the passing until it ceases.
But for now, everytime he is released from the crate make no fuss of him or "hello" im home!, pee or no pee, place him straight out and say go "wee wee" and shut the door on him, esp if he is more likely to hang around your legs if u stand out with him:rolleyes:
create a small designated area "with pads" and use the puppy toilet spray to give a quick spray to create a scent, to encourage him to use this as his wee wee area, watch him from the window and when he is nearing then end of a motion go out and say good "wee wee" and throw a little piece of chicken down.

Place a pad at the doors of any room u are in and watch for him heading for the pad (dont let him reach and pish on it) scoop him up and do the go "weee wee" and put him out, gradually phase the pads out and watch for him heading for the door and unless u are in and can supervise always put him in the crate, and also do it for periods u are in as it could be a bit of anxiety if u are not using the crate equally when u are in aswell as out.

This way u should beable to control it and guide him atleast, but if u are not there u have no chance and it will allow an unstructured routine carry on.

Let him out as per rule, after he has eaten, whips need to bog pretty quickly after food, and then half an hour later, after play time, after sleep, every time u come home from being out and immediately as u get up, b4 u even brush your teeth.
I would not worry to much at this stage about chill out time wit your other dogs on beds in kitchen for now, unless u are these and can watch him, that will come as he matures.

You basically when u are there, u are teaching him to head for a door using the pads, when u are not there he is crated and will hopefully use the pad in the crate, u could even up size the crate a little to fit a plastic bed with a piece of vet bed cut to size in it and room for the pad in the front if this one is to small, the idea here is as u see him become clean in the house with the "head for the doors" and take any unsupervised "being out" time away, you only have to replace the crate pad for now, then u will eventually cover the whole crate with a bed again, or go back to smaller crate and see if this stops the messing on the pad (which is now gone and the space covered by his bed) u would be amazed once u go back to basics what u can re teach them in a very basic way.;)

And don't forget u have now created a padded area for passing outdoors to encourage him.

Is he still crated at night? and does he hold then? as if he is and holding it, or even sleeps in the bed:rolleyes: and holds all night, it could be a little anxiety and this maybe because u are not using the crate enough for small random periods through out the day and only when you leave him, could this be the case?

Also how old is he now?, thats alot of food a day, so he will need toilet a lot, maybe u could lighten a meal or reduce if he is old enough and his weight is ok.

Hope all this makes sense.
 
Last edited:
Why dont u try and introduce a clicker, they are easier to carry than a treat tub:D, train him to come for a treat and a click, repeat this for a week randomly when he is chilling and taking no notice, then when u want him from the room try and click to get him to come running and hit and miss with the treat reward so he has to figure which return will get him the treat;)
 
Thanks I understand about re crating her, I have to crate my lurcher boy when I go out. When I first got him I couldnt crate him at all and he really freaked out. (had to crate due extreme sepearation issues) Now I pick up my keys and he gets up and he goes straight into his bed an lays down. He is like a different dog! You have given me advise and helped me before with this. So many thanks because he is great now.

I do leave all of my dogs with a treat when I leave, and I do have kongs. I also use treats during training and my puppy has really good recall with the aid of treats. So I agree I think a morining feed is enough.

My Lurcher is a real fussy eater and most of the time he will have some but never finish it. So feeding him once a day may help him too? But I will have to watch his weight as I have struggled in the past to keep it on. I can keep popping him down the vets to be weighed to keep an eye on his weight.

I have ordered a small JRT size crate online, this should be delivered Mon/Tue. So fingers crossed. I am expecting a baby in 12 weeks so would be really super if I can her sorted and stop weeing in the house by then.

Many Thanks again!!
 
CaveCanem said:
Quirky I'd cut down to two feeds a day at that age.
Feed by eye, not what it says on the packet, you know your dog, a bag doesn't :)
Click to expand...

He is only 4 1/2 months, it recommends you drop to 2 feeds at about 9 months.
Is it not a bit early yet?

The weight for an adult IG is 3kg and he is just under that now. He certainly doesn't look underfed, he probably looks about right tbh :).

Cayla - Thank you for the advice. I don't think he is anxiety soiling as he is happy to go in his crate as and when required. Only time he isn't happy is when we are eating tea, so I pop a blanket over him.
 
I would be happy enough for pups to be on two meals a day at 4-5 months, but certainly/definitely at six months.
If it ain't broke don't fix it of course :) but I'd just be wary of following bags to the letter, seen some bloaters and some emaciated pups because of it!
But would be interested to see if the poohs become less when the number of meals drops.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top