Advice for buying first horse

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AllyJ92

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Hi All,

I'm just looking for some advice for buying my first horse? Looking at a budget of about £3000 to include the horse, vetting, tack, rugs etc. I've started getting my yard tools and miscellaneous equipment already to I haven't got a mad rush once I've found something.
I won't be looking until about August realistically, once I've finished uni and settled into a job. I'm looking for something to be competitive at riding club level, maybe have a go at a few ODE's? I don't mind putting the work in, as long as it has decent basics? Do you think that sort of a budget should be enough? Any advice or top tips for when I start looking?

Thanks!
 
You should be able to find one for that budget but you will be looking in a similar bracket to many other people, £3k seems to be many peoples limit and there are obviously a finite amount of horses within that budget and of that type to go around, to get it equipped, vetted for £3k is unlikely unless you are either very lucky or buy something just backed or with an issue, declared or not.

I would expect you to have to spend all of your money on a horse, if not a bit more, then add the equipment and vetting on top, if you can save another £1k you would have more options when you start looking.
 
Insurance won't require a vetting (although you should still get one) until the purchase price rises to £6K or £7K depending on policy. £3K including tack and rugs is quite low - you will definitely get something at that price; but it might have other issues, be older or younger etc. Unless prices drop a lot in the year you won't get something immediately competitive at that price. As a general rule of thumb budget to buy your own tack separately. Although I am certain there are exceptions my own experience has been that the tack & rugs which come with the animal are not of the highest quality - and fairly so.

As to what level of vetting - depends on the horse I suppose. I've always had 5* but until recently not done bloods etc. I now would for a competition horse. But I have friends who have done very well with 2* - and indeed without at all although I would not recommend that.
 
Thanks for your replies! Think I best rethink the budget, I was thinking about £1500 for the horse based on what I've seen on various websites, and £1500 for everything else? I've part-loaned so know my usual weekly costings, but as to buying and vetting I'm a bit clueless? any recommendations for insurance?
 
If you can, take someone knowledgeable with you, just in case you 'fall in love' with the wrong one. Also agree re the vetting and definitely 5 stage over a 2 if you can afford it, with a 5 stage costing around the £200 mark.

Some horses do come with tack and rugs so worth asking, and something you could maybe negotiate. My sons new pony was bang on my max budget, but came with everything so didn't have to spend a penny more.

I think you are better buying a more expensive horse then getting any tack/rugs second hand - for £1500 you may end up with something green or quirky, but spend £2500 you could find an older 'been there/done it' type, that will be far more suited to a first time owner.

You may also need to budget in transporting the horse home, unless you have your own transport.

Insurance wise, just get several quotes and find one you are happy with. NFU and Pet plan tend to be more expensive, but are more likely to not argue over claims and be prompt about it. I have heard bad things about E&L, but they are the budget end of the market, and some have said that they have improved their service recently. Insurance companies are very easy to google and most will do on line quotes.

Good luck in your search!
 
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AllyJ92 said:
Thanks for your replies! Think I best rethink the budget, I was thinking about £1500 for the horse based on what I've seen on various websites, and £1500 for everything else? I've part-loaned so know my usual weekly costings, but as to buying and vetting I'm a bit clueless? any recommendations for insurance?
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You will see horses on websites for £1500 but when you start looking properly you will find they are not really what you want, window shopping means you are just taking in the good parts of an ad, once you read between the lines, rule out the ones too far away, too old, too young, too big, too small and numerous other reasons they are not suitable you will find there are very few left that fit your criteria even if you are not too picky.
It is worth making a list of must have, don't mind if it does/ doesn't, must not then go through and take a good long look and see how many you can still see for £1500, I do this when I am looking and the hundreds whittle down to 1 or 2 unfortunately.
 
My (very recent) budget was £3000, and I found a very lovely boy for that and bartered with the seller down to £2500. That did not include tack (hence the drop in price) but she did give me a few rugs of his, although I have probably spent at least £500 on equipping him!! The 5* vetting was £250.

I think £2500 for a nice horse is a perfectly respectable budget to be honest, but be prepared that it won't be a "schoolmaster" in the age range of 8-12! My guy is 6 years old and relatively green so needs a fair bit of work, but that's what I wanted. He flew through the vetting and although I have only owned him for 6 days (ridden him 3 of those) so far so good and no issues to worry about, yet...!

I started with my absolute must have's, drew up a list, and if I saw a horse that didn't fit the bill, I moved on. I would say be prepared to travel to find the right horse. A lot of people are so narrow in their search areas and you could miss the perfect horse for you! Also write a list of questions to ask the seller over the phone and write everything down so you can remember it all!

ETA: My vet friend recommended NFU or KBIS for insurance as they have a good rep for paying out!

GOOD LUCK!!
 
My advice would be:
1. Take a knowledgable friend / instructor with you
2. Make sure you watch the horse being ridden and jumped before you ride him.
3. Don't automatically discount dealers but do your research. There are good ones out there and they will do all they can to protect their reputation. Also, if things do go wrong you have more protection in law buying from a dealer than you do with a private sale.
4. Make a list of your requirements in descending order of importance (e.g my number 1 would be good in traffic, number 2 would be a willing but not over-excited jumper, 3 good to catch etc while other things like schooling, loading, handling I'm prepared to work on so can compromise with these.) You will have to compromise somewhere, but stick to your guns on the impotant things.
5. When you read adverts, cross reference your list and scrutinise it really carefully. Look as much at what isn't there as what is. Ask about everything that isn't mentioned. Become really cynical and assume the worst for everything until you've checked. They may have just forgotten to say he loads and travels well, but equally it may be deliberate. It's an awful thing to say, but trust no-one.
6. Test everything that's important to you, don't take their word for it. Even if it means going to seen him a few times. Try him in traffic, take him somewhere where you can have a gallop and check you can stop him, Load him on a trailer / lorry depending on what you have, make sure you can catch him and lead him properly etc.
7. Get him vetted youself, don't accept a 'recent vetting cert'. A friend fell for this, was told a "timewaster" had dropped out after a vetting but let them have the vet's report and certificate so they could give it to her to save money on the vetting...it turned out it was for another 16.2 bay 5 year old they had and this once was crocked.

Good luck!
 
When you do to view a horse check the horse has been given water as sometimes sellers will not give the horse water before a viewing to make them more calm. If you are buying from a private dealer that keeps the horse at a livery yard it is a good idea to ask others at the livery what they think of the horse. The biggest rule is try not to fall in love with any horse and take it home make sure the one you take home is right for you. Good luck :)
 
£1500 for a good allrounder is VERY low.

Yes, there's lots advertised at that price but almost without fail they're either under 14.2, are very green or young (or old), have issues or are badly put together cob types that aren't really all-rounders. As someone else said, that's not always obvious until you dig a bit further but sadly does give a skewed impression of the market for straightforward easy horses.

£2500 will get you a fairly established all rounder with ok schooling, sensible temperament and a bit of experience but it certainly won't be a fancy competition horse. Nor come with tack . £2500 may also get you something more talented (but not world class by any means ) but it'll be as green as grass. Anything straightforward, fairly talented and experienced will cost in excess of £3.5k.
 
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Tbh I agree with the above. To give you an idea:

My cob cost £2500 as a 5 yr old - other than hunting, he was very green and has taken a good year to get his schooling and his jumping going. Having said that, I would imagine if I sold him on in a couple of years, he would be worth a lot more as is very much the sought after 'sensible but talented type'.

My son's horse we have just bought is 11yrs old, 14.2hh and a real been there/done it type with a cv to match. He cost £3500 but all my son has to pretty much do is get on and steer!!

So yes be aware you would be very lucky to get a decent type for £1500, and read any ad's very carefully for horses around this price range.
 
AllyJ92 said:
Thanks for your replies! Think I best rethink the budget, I was thinking about £1500 for the horse based on what I've seen on various websites, and £1500 for everything else? I've part-loaned so know my usual weekly costings, but as to buying and vetting I'm a bit clueless? any recommendations for insurance?
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As a first horse, I would seriously rethink your budget for a decent competition prospect. Sure you may pick up an OTTB but you'll have to work hard to get it competition ready and it'll barely have any basics.
 
Don't buy something that is not currently in work, very tempting with a small budget because they are advertised as the perfect horse but with no one to ride them have been in the field for a few months. This brings the price down but can mean that they are not at all as described as you will discover a few months down the line.

When you go to try, if the horse is very poor looking, be wary. Horses that seem very kind and sensible when they feel cold and hungry are often a very different beast when you have given them some tlc and they feel better.

Be wary of any signs of saddle marks on the horse when you first walk into the stable, check the horse has access to water and watch it having a headcollar put on. If the horse is already standing tied on the yard, ask for it to be put away and then brought out again so you can see how it is in the stable.

The ideal horse will be fit, in full work, have an easily checkable history and the seller will be happy for you to ask questions and check vet records etc. If the seller is not happy for any of this, be wary again, people tend to get difficult when they have something to hide.

I wrote the following on a thread a year ago and I think it still stands as reasonable advice.

Horses and ponies change completely when they feel well, are warm and comfortable and above all are fit. This is not a complete blanket statement but will run true at least 90% of the time. If you go to look at a horse and it is unfit the chances are when it gets fit it will be sharper. Maybe not naughty just a bigger and stronger ride which may not be what you were looking for.

Young horses are weak, they often remain weak and continue to grow for several years and how long they go on strenghtening will depend on their breed and how well they have been fed and worked from a young age. You may see and try a 5 year old who seems as quiet as a lamb but be aware, he could still be growing, he may not have been well fed as a youngster or been worked much as a 4 year old. When he gets stronger and you get him fit, he may no longer be the lamb you tried.

As a new owner avoid the younger horses and ponies, try to find something that has already been there and done it, it doesn't matter if they are older than you want, they will give you at least a few years brilliant service teaching you and giving you the confidence to take on a younger horse next time. The young horses are cheap for a reason, they are green and novice and need teaching their job. An older horse (above 12) will be cheaper than the middle years because he is considered past his prime, don't discount them, what is one man's meat is another man's poison.

When you go to see a horse, if it is covered in mud or very obviously lives out full time, check why, especially if most of the others are in and if you plan to keep it in and not out 24/7. If it is unfit, be wary.

Above all, take someone very experienced with you, do not make you mind up then and there and don't let your heart rule your head!
 
Very exciting time for you OP. I think its a good idea to share someones horse for a year or so . Then buy your own maybe even the horse you have shared.
 
That is a low budget for a riding club competition prospect. You might only get something for that if it is in its late teens and/or got health issues maybe. As your first horse please dont get something too young. There is a bit of a trend at my yard of novice first time buyers ending up with 3/4yr olds who a year or so down the line they have barely got going with as have confidence issues due to the horse being young and green (no matter how sweet natured the horse is).

If you can save up some more money and have a budget of probably 5k you might be able to get something like a nice 10yr old that has some experience, not a world beater to affiliate but something to do lots of riding club with.

My first two purchases were good riding club sorts and both 7yr olds. I spent 4-5k on each before vetting, transport etc. My new girl was 4k and she is 5yr old with potential. Havent really got going yet as having help schooling her but great fun to hack although it has crossed my mind if I should have gone for an older horse that has more experience again. Hoping the next 6months will be better though (she hasnt done anything wrong, just more green in the school than I first thought).

Ask lots of questions when you are viewing horses. I like to find out why they are for sale and look for genuine reasons especially when they are 6-12yrs as that is prime age for competing so not many would be for sale if they are good. My first horse was for sale due to daughter going to uni, second one was due to owner wanting a flashy warmblood to go up the levels dressage (he was a sports cob).

I always get a 5 stage vetting for peace of mind which itself is usually £250-300.
 
Doormouse said:
Young horses are weak, they often remain weak and continue to grow for several years and how long they go on strenghtening will depend on their breed and how well they have been fed and worked from a young age. You may see and try a 5 year old who seems as quiet as a lamb but be aware, he could still be growing, he may not have been well fed as a youngster or been worked much as a 4 year old. When he gets stronger and you get him fit, he may no longer be the lamb you tried.
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This is true, but a very diffcult judgement to make. My share horse was a darling at 5. He is now 19 and a darling.In the 14 years in between he has ranged from being a darling to being a darling! Nobody has ever fallen off him, just fallen over with the clumsy oaf! If however, you're either not up to making that assessment (as best as anyone can) or up to dealing with the problem if/when it arives, an older "tried and tested" horse would be a better idea.
 
As someone who recently walking into buying her first horse with a budget of £3000, I say this.
You'll be very lucky to get a good horse and get it fully kitted out for that money.
My 14.2 11y/o Irish Cob cost me £1800 without any tack or rugs, and there's no way we could do anything PC related currently, she doesn't have a bloody clue what to do in the school, circles are alien to her and straight lines are the devil. (Hasten to add she's great fun to hack which is what I enjoy anyway).
But then I had to add insurance, farrier, worming and egg count, rugs (cooler, stable, turnout), bridle, saddle, girth, vetting, food, bedding, livery (provide own food and bedding on own choice), vaccs, brushes, supplements, and it all adds up very fast.

I think I ended up paying about £3500 initial outlay altogether, and I got lucky and picked up a bunch of high value items (saddle, rugs, already had brushes) cheap second hand from family and friends. If I were looking for something that was school and had potential for showing or PC, I'd budget a bit more in the future :)
 
Thank you all, definitely going to rethink the budget!! I've part loaned for 3 years and only stopped because the owner didn't want to share anymore. I don't mind something a bit rough around the edges as I put a lot of work into the part loan pony, and enjoy that part more than the competing! I was initially thinking about something to be my "forever horse" so wanted it to be relatively young, but from reading your comments its true that I've seen a few 11-12 year olds with a good write up and the photos/videos to match but disguarded them on age. Perhaps I'll rethink my age boundaries! I have a list of must haves and definite no no's, so at least I've got something right!
 
You are better off with a been there and done it horse. Something 14 ish that is still doing his job, and passes a vetting with no niggles is likely to carry on with his job for many more years. Best of all is he will know his job and be a whole lot easier to ride than a baby.

People seem to get fixated by age, both on here, and in real life. Like people, age is but a number and look at the horse in front of you, not what you "think" is there
 
wench said:
You are better off with a been there and done it horse. Something 14 ish that is still doing his job, and passes a vetting with no niggles is likely to carry on with his job for many more years. Best of all is he will know his job and be a whole lot easier to ride than a baby.

People seem to get fixated by age, both on here, and in real life. Like people, age is but a number and look at the horse in front of you, not what you "think" is there
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Thank you - I think I definitely have been a bit fixed on the age
 
I paid £2900 for my girl a year ago and she came with nothing. My budget was £3500 so I had a little left for tack etc but have spent much more than £600 on kitting her out. She was a 7 year old and had very little schooling and had only really hunted. She is my first horse as an adult and with hindsight I should maybe have looked at something better schooled so possibly older - it has certainly been a learning curve as I am not very experienced at schooling horses so we are learning together. Having said that she is steady, safe and doesn't put herself, or me, in danger and I wouldn't be without her. I am lucky as I am on a yard with a hugely supportive and helpful YO and liveries who are happy to help me if needs be. I wasn't expecting to buy anything schoolmaster-ish at that budget and have been lucky to end up with a safe and calm mare who is also still young. Make sure you take someone who knows how you ride and knows you well, but also has experience, as others have said. Good luck and have fun! 😃
 
annagain said:
This is true, but a very diffcult judgement to make. My share horse was a darling at 5. He is now 19 and a darling.In the 14 years in between he has ranged from being a darling to being a darling! Nobody has ever fallen off him, just fallen over with the clumsy oaf! If however, you're either not up to making that assessment (as best as anyone can) or up to dealing with the problem if/when it arives, an older "tried and tested" horse would be a better idea.
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I would always advise a first time buyer to choose an older horse, one that can teach 'horse-keeping', will be well-mannered and know its job. There are very few horses that are not suitable for low-level competition, which is all that the vast majority of first time owners will be capable of themselves. Many horses live into at least their late twenties, so buying a teenager will mean a useful working life of 10 yrs or more.
I am afraid that some first time buyers over-estimate their own ability and not only over-horse themselves but also set criteria for their first horse, which are more suited to an experienced affiliated competition rider. If you have that kind of ambition, you can sell on your first horse when it has taught you what you need to know and buy a competition horse as your second horse.
 
My only tip is to make sure you feel safe when riding them. I have seen so many people who buy lovely big horses but they can't ride one side of them and end up petrified of their own horse. As long as you feel safe, you can work on anything else!
As many have said, go for an older horse who has experience. You will probably loose money if you choose to sell on in a few years, but what they teach you and the confidence they can bring is invaluable.
 
Definitely take someone really experienced with you, even if you have to pay them. I know you said you are taking your friend which is great, but if she is not experienced in buying horses (which is different from experienced in owning them!) I would consider paying someone to come with you for a second viewing if you know anyone suitable (e.g. an instructor).

I would also say trust your gut instincts and if you think something is wrong in the seller or the setup then it probably is. Get the vet to take bloods so if the horse goes lame as soon as you get it home they can check if it was drugged for the vetting (I think this is included as standard in the 5 stage, but not sure).

Doormouse said:
Don't buy something that is not currently in work, very tempting with a small budget because they are advertised as the perfect horse but with no one to ride them have been in the field for a few months. This brings the price down but can mean that they are not at all as described as you will discover a few months down the line.
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I'm sure this is good general advice, but I bought my current horse from the field after he had been out of work over a year and he's been absolutely fine and was completely genuine. I did ride him at the viewing (after my instructress had sat on him!).
 
This is a really interesting post, there are good horses out there in your price range but you need to be careful. I ring and ask about the horse in the ad giving no detail if they say which one I give my apologies and leave at that point unless I know in advance they are a dealer! I then ask loads of reasonable questions. Look for a book called how to buy a horse and not be taken for a ride, it taught me all I knew as a novice and is still good advice. I have bought 7 horses since first following the advice and not bought a bad one yet. Also be honest to yourself about your abilities.
 
This will be a good time to buy as lots of kids going off to uni decide to sell their horses, why not ask around your local pony clubs nearer to the summer and let them know you are looking. Also at the end of the summer, some people sell rather than keep a horse over the winter and IMO prices tend to drop a bit as there is more on the market.

Please don't buy a young horse, i've bought several horses for myself aged 11/12ish and have got really nice established horses which have taught me a lot. Avoid lazy horses like the plague though, they will feel safe initially but IMO it's the worst evasion of all and once you get more confident and want more out of them, they can get a bit nasty. Something that is off the leg but not sharp and sensitive is ideal. For me temperament is really important as is having something with manners

I think your budget is on the low side though and if you can find a bit more for the horse then I think it will give you more options. I always negotiate for some tack to be included as part of the deal, particularly the saddle (as long as it fits) even if you can get the bridle it gives you something to start with and you can buy better tack when you have the money. Good luck, there are nice horses out there and they are every colour, size and breed but sometimes they take some finding. Also, make sure you put the word around that you are looking as the best horses I've had have come through word of mouth.
 
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