Agressive Dog - help please!

Natti

Natti

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I have an almost 3yo YorkiexShi tsu. Just before he turned 1yo a black lab attacked him while we were on holiday (he was with us), the lab didn't do any physical damage but since then he became progressively worse around other dogs. At first he was just really shy and wouldn't go near them, no matter what! Now he will growl, bark and try to bite them, he has never managed but I'm afraid that one time he will and that will leave me in a really bad place. There are lots of dog walkers on the estate which I live on and, because of his size (he's quite small) just think its 'cute' or when I tell them he doesn't like other dogs they just laugh and let their dog go up and sniff him. Not only is this a problem for me but Scrabble goes absolutely insane when a dog comes close (especially big dogs) and could cause serious damage to their dog and it will be my fault.

He also really needs let off the lead because, for a small dog, he has a lot of energy to be let off. I don't let him off near the roads but there is a wooded area literally 2mins away from where I live so I take him there and let him off as nobody likes the wood (it is right next to a 'bad' town, lots of nasty stuff goes down there) but I would like not to have to worry and be able to take him to parks, beaches, etc.

Is there anything I can do to stop this behaviour? He is a saint in every other way, easy to train, loves people/cats/horses and even lets a little girl who lives near me fuss over him for hours! Would a muzzle be a good idea? I have had a hard time finding one small enough for him, thats the only problem!
Thanks in advance! Natti xx
 
Natti said:
I have an almost 3yo YorkiexShi tsu. Just before he turned 1yo a black lab attacked him while we were on holiday (he was with us), the lab didn't do any physical damage but since then he became progressively worse around other dogs. At first he was just really shy and wouldn't go near them, no matter what! Now he will growl, bark and try to bite them, he has never managed but I'm afraid that one time he will and that will leave me in a really bad place. There are lots of dog walkers on the estate which I live on and, because of his size (he's quite small) just think its 'cute' or when I tell them he doesn't like other dogs they just laugh and let their dog go up and sniff him. Not only is this a problem for me but Scrabble goes absolutely insane when a dog comes close (especially big dogs) and could cause serious damage to their dog and it will be my fault.

He also really needs let off the lead because, for a small dog, he has a lot of energy to be let off. I don't let him off near the roads but there is a wooded area literally 2mins away from where I live so I take him there and let him off as nobody likes the wood (it is right next to a 'bad' town, lots of nasty stuff goes down there) but I would like not to have to worry and be able to take him to parks, beaches, etc.

Is there anything I can do to stop this behaviour? He is a saint in every other way, easy to train, loves people/cats/horses and even lets a little girl who lives near me fuss over him for hours! Would a muzzle be a good idea? I have had a hard time finding one small enough for him, thats the only problem!
Thanks in advance! Natti xx
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Firstly, don't go anywhere that makes you vulnerable. There's a reason no other dog walkers are about. He was anxious in the beginning because of his experience, then he learnt that if he puts on the tough guy act, social dogs will avoid him. He needs to learn that the majority of dogs are actually non-aggressive and would prefer to socialise than fight. Easier said than done! I would look into training classes and find a class where the dogs (and owners) are amenable and the instructor is familiar with fear aggression.:)
 
What she said ^^^

A good trainer/training class will help point out things you may or may not be doing.

Muzzle might work, also longlining or flexilead in areas with lots of dogs and no traffic. There are plenty of other ways to burn off energy, swimming, biking, jogging etc.
 
I feel for you - I have a terrier who is not a big fan of other dogs having been attacked at 6 months old.

First things first, get your recall spot on so if there are no dogs around you can let him off and know that if you do see a dog you can get him back to you and on lead, sharpish.

The thing that helps our dog massively is that we can send him to his breeder for a few days - she has 25 dogs and a few days there always helps him. I don't know if you have anyone like this you can call on?

Might be worth investigating a (well run) agility type class in your area - definitely not one where dogs run amok though! We went to one which was only about 4 dogs, all on lead apart from when each one did the equipment. It will help burn off some energy - physical and mental.

It may be that you can't let him off lead where there are other dogs. And if he is on lead and another dog approaches, don't feel silly shouting to the owners that your dog is not friendly and can they recall their dog (I have had to do this today!).

He is almost certainly picking up on you being tense too, so work on relaxing, deep breaths, let your shoulders drop etc. If passing an on-lead dog, put yourself between him and the other dog, be calm and purposeful, and walk past quickly.

A ball works for us as a distraction - my dog is so ball-focused that he will ignore another dog to look at his ball, and this then gives you time to get the other owner to get their dog away.

We managed a day at Burghley last year - so all on lead and lots of other dogs, with the help of a water pistol to deal with any barking at other dogs and obviously keeping a close eye on him.

I have by no means conquered my dog's issues with other dogs, but the above have helped a bit :)

It may be that you can never let him off lead around other dogs - it's not the end of the world, you just need to find other ways/places for him to go off lead. Personally I'd rather have a child, person, horse friendly dog that isn't great with other dogs, than one that was the other way round!
 
Thanks guys! Unfrotunately seeing as his letter was a bit if an accident I don't have a breeder to go to but will definately be looking for a training class/trainer to see if I can get this out of him. I have had him on a flexilead but he seems to forget that roads have big scary cars on them! He also doesn't like water or bikes, will be looking into agility classes though! I have always wanted to do them, just have never found a good one, will be having a more thorough search around though :)
 
Lots of good suggestions.
I would definately work on his recall (indoors) at first, good old tube of primula and call his name "scrabble" comeeeeeeeeeee:D and suck of cheese and then let him go off again (don't let him hang around and greed.
Repeat it randomly and then take it outside to a quiet feld and use a long line/extendy (which ever you prefer and practice letting him go off to the end and call him back and "treat":)

In regard to his agressive defensive behaviour, then no point pitying him and dwelling on what was in regard to the attack as this will almost become like a learnt response so you must be firm in controlling him coupled with some positive aids, so for walking past dogs I would suggest a good training lead and I would say a halti but im not sure if you would get one on his face (better control) of the head if not then I would probably go for a half check chain, esp if he pulls towards other dog in a scraping his nails along the ground way and leaning his whole body in towards the direction of the dog.
Your handling is very important in these situations, instead of grappling him in and bracing yourself you need to produce you aid "tubed primula" and give him a waft of it to get his attention qued with a "watch me", you need to then keep his attention this way until you are passed the distraction, if at any time he breaks away and starts to bark/growl, then check him via his collar and tell him "leave it", there has to be a firm reprimand and understand of a consiquence aswell as a reward for his attention being on you/'food and away from the dog.

Always walk him on your left with you lead in you right hand and relax the lead (never hold it tight) there should be a skippy rope like effect in the way it hangs as not to give a tense siganl down the lead in order for him to "brace himself";)
I do think alot of these behaviours generally get worse by A, the owner thinking the dog has a right to act this way forever (because of the bad experience and B, the lack of firm handling when needed. It needs to stop and you both need to learn not to react, so change your mind set and dig in with the training.
A training class would of course also as suggested be a great aid for you both too.
 
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CaveCanem - lol, sorry, I don't think I read your post properly :P silly me!

Wiz201 - My dad had been the one to suggest this, I have never really been keen on them but I was wondering what others might think about it :)

CAYLA - Scrabble already has a good recall (as long as no other dogs are around) I have also been trying to relax while out with him, it has seemed to be helping but I think he can tell when I don't my full attention on him and starts up then! I had starting training him with the 'Watch Me' command but I had exams and it sort of got put to the end of a long list of things to do (bad I know :o) My family is totaly agains check chains, so that is a no go area, we have a body harness could that come in useful?

Thanks for all the advise, you all certainly do know a lot!
 
I would prefer to use a headcollar with him, or a harness. I have used half chain/half nylon collars before but in this case because the aggression is fear based the squeezing action of the collar might just make the situation worse as the fear would just increase. For a dog that just simply pulls on a lead and only needs correction for that, I would use it.
You could actually use a combination of a harness and a normal collar or a headcollar and use a training lead with two clips on it. If your dog will take treats, start using them before he spots the other dog. Get him to sit and treat whilst the other dog is walking past.
I have a goldie who is slightly nervous around other dogs and I use this technique with great success. Granted her problem is not as serious as yours; she now will greet other dogs nicely when we stop and ask other owners if we can.
 
Blimey, exactly like one of mine! Attacked and now so wary, he needs to get in first and attack :(

We got rid of the muzzle because we never let him off except with a 50 foot line trailing and no dogs nearby. Fortunately, he's ball obsessed so ignores unexpected dogs appearing if waiting for the ball.

If yours is equally obsessed, try the longline, you can step on it to stop him running off (although I'd worry that would snap the neck of a little dog).

Recently, having been ignored by our (big, well known) trainer (might have been the video of Zak watching Bolt and reacting-badly-to a CGI dog :eek:), we have taken him to the park to watch other dogs and distracted him with treats/toys, walked with non reactive dogs and their gorgeous owners, walked behind other dogs and distracted any unwanted behaviour with squeaky ball. He is tons better. We also taught a very solid 'watch' command.

I'd still rarely let him off the lead, but he gets plenty of exercise swimming in a pond (on the longline) or retrieving the ball. He does not need to be free running, although is if chasing a ball. I let the OH do this bit as he throws one ball, dog turns round to run back, sees other ball being thrown in opposite direction, drops ball with us, goes for other ball. Repeat!

If walking in the woods, he's on an Easywalk harness and flexi (shoot me, it works)
 
I would personally not advise putting him in a sit as the key here is to not let him focus, instead walk by at a nice pace in order to keep him going, the message is, we pass and it's not big deal. You will tend to find majority of the time the dog is more interested in trying to get at the dog when still when forced to move on the reaction time is taken away (which is what you need) I personally would not use a harness either, again he will still beable to scramble across the ground or indeed levitate;) (little dogs) are much more affective at this:).If focus alone does not work you will need a mix of check and reward, the check is more of a "interupting the behaviour and switching focus".
A halti would be a good choice but I do feel you will struggle to get one over his face.
The above technique I have used possibly hundreds of times:). Coupled with calm handling (the hardest part) when you are bracing yourself for the behaviour everytime.
Do take whatever tips you find will help though and definately look out for a good trainer/class.
 
Natti said:
CaveCanem - lol, sorry, I don't think I read your post properly :P silly me!

Wiz201 - My dad had been the one to suggest this, I have never really been keen on them but I was wondering what others might think about it :)

CAYLA - Scrabble already has a good recall (as long as no other dogs are around) I have also been trying to relax while out with him, it has seemed to be helping but I think he can tell when I don't my full attention on him and starts up then! I had starting training him with the 'Watch Me' command but I had exams and it sort of got put to the end of a long list of things to do (bad I know :o) My family is totaly agains check chains, so that is a no go area, we have a body harness could that come in useful?

Thanks for all the advise, you all certainly do know a lot!
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Oops just read this, personally as I said I would not use a harness for such training I would go for a halti, im not sure how you would fit one, maybe try taking him somewhere to see if any would fit (pet at home) let you fit them.
A half check is also most material with only a tiny amount of chain, but to be fair most who don't understand their use would maybe not use them (funnily enough alot who come with uncontrolable dogs);).
I can use a slip lead when training but find most owners are not capable and struggle with the use of a collar and lead.
If you cannot get a halti then I would use a plain collar but not harness (but thats just me)
 
CaveCanem said:
I meant flexileads AWAY from areas where there are cars :)
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A flexi lead will also massivley hinder your handling of him at times when he is on the attack, definately look for a descent training lead for better control and comfort your you hands.
The thick nylon halti training leads are probably the easiest to get hold of.
 
I meant a flexi for exercising him, rather than for training. You know how much I hate them as a rule :o but I do use one for 'free' exercise/not training.

I am sooo misunderstood today :p
 
CaveCanem said:
I meant a flexi for exercising him, rather than for training. You know how much I hate them as a rule :o but I do use one for 'free' exercise/not training.

I am sooo misunderstood today :p
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No, i knew what you meant man:p I was just envisaging her trying to control him in the street if she is indeed using a flexi at present.
I agree with the flexi for recall and such in me other reply.

Tis me who is confuzling things:p
 
Thanks guy for all the tips and training advise! Will definately be starting a lot of it v. soon.
I would have made this reply longer but I have to go, just know I have read all your advise ;)
 
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