Any suggestions for a bit?

Suz2

Member
Joined
21 July 2008
Messages
15
Visit site
I have a 9yr old TB ex-racer and currently ride him in a french link eggbutt snaffle, which is fine for schooling most of the time. However, when we ride on large spaces of grass, he runs off. With tons of schooling, he is more responsive and does have breaks, but when he wants to go, he goes! He grabs hold of the bit and raises his head high (martingale doesn't make a difference) and gallops off faster and faster. I don't want to bit him up and also with him being an ex-racer, I don't want to encourage him to grab the bit any more than he does. Has any one got any suggestions?
 
I would say persist with the schooling. The more you do of it the better the horse will get. Just need to persevere. Maybe if you are really stuck, try maybe a waterford mouth piece, they find it harder to grab hold of those. or a bit with a bit of poll pressure like a hanging cheek?
Hope this helps!
 
As above; I changed my ex team chaser to a Myler comfort snaffle, as I think the french links are too thick for his mouth, and were uncomfortable.
I also used to sit and canter him out rather than stand which made him go faster.
 
What about trying a single jointed 3 ring Happy mouth with the reins on the 2nd ring or failing that an american gag. You could still keep him in the milder bit for schooling and the schooling will definately help him however safety when you are out hacking is paramount!!- sometimes a stronger bit for hacking is a necessity and will make things easier.

One of my horses was very sharp to hack out too and he is hacked out in 3 ring and draw reins and he is happier and much more relaxed! even though its not textbook it works for him.

Good luck!
 
I would persist with the schooling. He obviously still thinks grass = fast.

Try a standing martingale which is more effective than a running martingale, but make sure it is on a cavesson noseband of the cavessson part of a flash.
 
Changing to a loose ring might help as they are more mobile thus less likely to be able to grab hold. Other thoughts are try a mexican grackle. I use a loose ring fulmer french link with a cavesson most of the time, change to a grackle for 'exciting things' and it helps a lot without having to use a bigger bit. Finally, a waterford. Good for grabbers and leaners as nothing to grab or lean on, but still a mild bit (unless you saw on the mouth of course!!).

Oh, and, bridge your reins. Works a treat as they are pulling on themselves, not on you.
 
I would go to a bit person for advise and help. e-mail this lady, she is very good and does biting clinic's. Hilary Vernon http://www.equestrianknowledge.co.uk/
smile.gif
 
Also have you tried schooling him on grass? maybe start in a small field and gradually progress to a larger one.
 
If you really want to change the bit try a 3 ring happy mouth revolver gag. brill bits. soft if you don't need it and that extra bit of persuasion if you do. the pole pressure get there head down when they throw it in the air and run.
Hope it helps
Elle
x
 
gags are better for horses which lean on the fit. A curb bit such as a pelham, kimblewick or weymouth, encourage the head down.

gags encourage the head up which is why they are great for horses which lean down.
 
well it certainly brings my mares head down. because of the pole pressure. We had amare which did a similar thing as described and a pelham made her head fly high than a kite! But the gagworked wonders and bought her head down and made her soft. my other mare is very heady and this gag works wonders. Maybe if you had a single joint that was pushing on the top of the mouth. i think it depends on the horse, the bit and how you use it
Luv Elle
x
 
Hi, I agree with the guys who say work on the schooling some more.
Are you 100% sure that YOU are effective before you consider swopping to another bit.

I'm not a fan of some of the bits mentioned here, and nothing is a "quick fix".
I've retrained many, speaking from experience make sure the reschooling is done correct, that he is submissive and responsive to you - that you ask correct. Until you are 100% sure do not put yourself at risk of either being hurt or losing your confidence.
Once your schooling is established then you can take him anywhere, yes he will get excitable still, but it will be contained and you will have the speed and direction control.

I always loved the more enthusisatic ones, as if you get them interested in something they tend to give their all!

Don't forget some of his behaviour he does through expectation... he is after all bred to be a speed merchant!

Good luck, take your time and be patient.
 
Top