best way to care for leather?

[Circe]

Can anyone let me know the best way to care for new leather?

Ive never been able to have new leather bridles or anything until now, and I've treated myself (well, horse Jazz really ) to a brand, spanking new, leather headcollar and bridle.

So, should I oil it or condition it before using it, or should I just use and clean as normal? I'd like to soften the leather a bit if poss.
Thanks
Kx

 

[Alec Swan]

An interesting question. Firstly if you consider that leather is like a very tightly compacted and fibrous sponge, then probably the best thing would be water, except that it evaporates very quickly, and dries out a (hopefully) naturally lubricated material. That won't do!

Most leather, will arrive from the tannery with a waxed surface, which is generally tallow. This is to protect the existent preservatives, and to give a pleasing finish.

I always recommended that customers used the articles which I'd made, and then when the wax had worn off, and the pores were obviously exposed, that they used as thick a preservative as possible. For bridles, head collars, and anything but the seat of a saddle, I would always recommend glycerine saddle soap. If the seats of saddles are oiled, on a regular basis, then they will almost certainly stretch, and will be spoiled. As a saddle seat doesn't flex in use, then a damp cloth should be all that's needed.

I would never use, or suggest, the thin preservatives. Hydrophane, and the like dry out too quickly, in my experience, and such thiner liquids will all too quickly rot stitching which is made from hemp.

Neats Foot Oil, is another excellent preservative, but to find it these days, in its pure form isn't easy. If you read the labels, they all so often say "Contains" Neats Foot Oil, and that's a mile away from being the real thing!

One word of warning. If you start off with Saddle Soap, and then change to NFO, or the other way about, you will end up with a gungy mess!! Best to stick to one or the other, I've found.

I hope that this is of some help.

Alec.

 

[Circe]

Thanks Alec,
Ive already got glycerine saddle soap, so I"ll stick with that
Kx

 

[cremedemonthe]

Cod liver oil is by far the best oil if you have to use any oil.Best to use a leather conditioner rather than oil, containing any or preferably all of the following, Lanolin, Beeswax and Tallow.

 

[russian_charm]

I always have kinda a three step process when cleaning most tack ESPECIALLY with new stuff. No matter how good the quality, a brand new bit of leathery goodness is going to be a bit dry, simply from sitting around in a store. So before I even use it, I clean it (and if its cheaper or really dry, I clean it again. Then again. and after I next use it, I clean it again, until it gets really broken in). If you use it when it is really stiff and dry, chances are it will start to crack.

I alway saddle soap first, with a damp sponge, cos you need to get any dust or dirt off before you put other stuff on and a good saddle soap will start to get the leather nicer. (I use Joseph Lydly saddle soap, not sure of spelling though)

Then I oil the back of the leather with a cloth (non glossy side) thoroughly and let it soak in, then often if its brand new I'll oil it again and let it soak in again. (I use Effax oil)

THEN, since according to the tack shop owner, you should always condition it after oiling, I go over with a cloth and some leather conditioner all over. (I use Bates conditioner).

Not sure if thats how everyone else does it, but thats how I was taught to clean leather and break it in, and it seems too work pretty nicely.

Hope your mare feels nice and flashy in her new gear

 

[Circe]

thanks for the suggestions.
Ive always had ( really good ) but second hand leather work, where someone else has done the hard work !

Jazz is a gelding, ( silly name for a gelding ? He wasnt' named by me, but I always think jazz is a girls name ? )
He does act like a princess sometimes though !
Kx

 

[DougalJ]

Personally I am a Neatsfoot Oil fan, keeps my saddle and bridles very soft and nourished.

 

[rambling]

I'm not a fan of oil at all , although if you hunt in all weathers twice a week you may need to go down the road of oiling but your stitching won't last as long IME and the leather has a tendancy to get flabby.

As russian_charm says just clean it normally , preferably with Glycerine Saddle Soap , every time its used . I always take mine apart ,which means you will be getting the parts which are in contact with metal .
That and the heat of the horses body will start the softening process but won't oversoften it or rot the stitching.
I would also use KoChoLine or Stubben Leather Balm every few weeks in the beginning and also before or after storage or when it gets a bad soaking.
If you use these the leather gets 'sort of' embalmed and you wont need to do it as often and it will withstand an occasional soaking very well.
As Alec says never put anything on the saddle seat . Oh I always apply the KoChoLine or Stubben Balm with my bare hands as the heat helps it work in, concentrating on the back of the leather.

Thats what I do anyway and I have had leatherwork for years and the stitching is fine , it doesn't have a high gloss but it feels like silk , strong and soft.

 

[cremedemonthe]

You should feed the saddle seat, not with oil of any kind but a good leather food as I mentioned earlier. Saddle seats do flex slightly, especially if a spring tree. The heat of the rider will also draw out moisture from the leather, making it dry, all veg tanned leather will need some sort of food. If the saddle seat gets too dry it can lead to splitting at the welts and at the cantle.

 

[russian_charm]

ha oh oops sorry
*hope your gelding feels flashy in his new gear!

 

[valandval]

You should never try to clean leather with anything other than a damp cloth and you must give it a regular covering of leather polish or similar, leather is astonishingly hard wearing, but you need to keep it in the right condition.

 

[cremedemonthe]

You should never try to clean leather with anything other than a damp cloth and you must give it a regular covering of leather polish or similar, leather is astonishingly hard wearing, but you need to keep it in the right condition.

This is incorrect, leather polish is ok on chrome tanned leathers or a semi chrome perhaps, such as shoes which is what is is designed for but on veg tanned leather as used within the Saddlery trade all it does is seal the grain, thus effectively stopping any fat or moisture that you try to apply (such as in leather food) getting into the fibres. This then allows the leather to dry out and will break.
Any leather that creaks when used is dry and needs moisture, not oil but leather food containing beeswax, lanolin and tallow is best.
Do not ever use ordinary leather polish on veg tanned leather. ONLY use leather food.