Bit advice for a cob

iwantaunicorn

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I'm looking for some advice on which bit to try on my traditional cob. I currently ride him in a full cheek French link snaffle. This was the bit he was backed in 18 months ago and I've kind of just stuck with it. i think I need to change bit, when I'm riding him any faster than walk he is very heavy in my hands and just feels like a tank. If we go for a long hack my shoulders, arms and fingers are aching for about 2 days.
I have tried a jointed Pelham and he did t like that at all, he would snatch at the reins and constantly head toss. Tried a hanging cheek snaffle and he was the same with that very heavy in my hands.
A friend of mine has said to try a either a Tom Thumb or a Waterford
Any suggestions?
Sorry it's a essay
 
Sounds like he is trundling along on the forehand rather then being strong. I would hesitate to up a gear in bits. All horses are different but my cob did this until I tried a myler and from then on he was fine. My traditional cob has a large tongue and often finds bits uncomfortable so I use a Cambridge snaffle .You could try and release the contact on one side as he starts to lean or drop the reins as he leans rather then allow him to become so heavy. A instructor on the ground might help. I am assuming his teeth have been checked.
 
As above this is really a schooling issue rather than a bitting one, a change to something less fixed may help but if you allow him to lean he will take the easy option, encourage him to carry himself, use his hindquarters and stop using you as a means of support, I would change to a loose ring and get him working properly before putting something harsh in his mouth which will not help long term.
Lots of transitions, leg yielding, hill work where he pushes not pulls up so make him go very slowly with a transition every now and again, if you get him carrying himself you will both benefit.

If you are going cubbing or hunting then I would use something else but only for the faster activities then swap back to a loose ring snaffle and get the training in place.
 
I have a loose ring snaffle in tack room I could try on him, but the mouthpiece is quite thick. Find it hard to find a bit that is thin, if that makes sense. He doesn't get on with the thicker ones. My full cheek snaffle is thin.
 
The Cambridge snaffle is loose ring and thin, its why I used it on my traditional.

I have a Clydesdale
<<<<<

He had a very similar issue with leaning, if you think a cob is heavy you should try a draft leaning , used to suddenly hit the end of the reins as you asked for a downwards transition .....such fun. Turned out he had a hook on one of his teeth where the bit sat and he was taking care not to be socked in the mouth and hurt ( ridden by novices a lot) Once the hook was sorted the problem still remained because it was now a habit. It has taken several months ( Clyde's are stubborn) of schooling with my instructor to make a real impact and reduce the leaning. Once he starts to lean I give with the hand and then retake the rein, so I am not supporting him and holding him, which he seems to like, the only change I made to my bit was to get a fulmer and that was because of his tendency Not to turn and to try and bog off in a different direction which I suspect was also related to his teeth and to the idea if he got away with it the rider would get off scared. I have been a bit of a surprise to him I think. :)
 
I had his wolf teeth taken out about 12 months ago because he was being fussy with the bit and generally not happy with a contact. So he is due to have his teeth looked at. Will get that done this month.
 
Try something unjointed, my cob won't tolerate any joint as his huge tongue and low palette make it very uncomfortable. I use a Hilary Vernon Mullen mouth eggbut when I use a bit, which he accepts very happily, but he's bitless most of the time now anyway.
 
I use this bit on my large youngster

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He goes very nicely in it
 
Not a bit problem, it's a training problem. Get some help from a professional and learn how to ride him up off his front. Cobs are generally built on their forehands (being little draught horses, not riding horses at all) and very often need extra help learning how to carry their rider.
 
Not a bit problem, it's a training problem. Get some help from a professional and learn how to ride him up off his front. Cobs are generally built on their forehands (being little draught horses, not riding horses at all) and very often need extra help learning how to carry their rider.

I'm not saying it's not a training issue, but if a different bit helps with that then I'm happy to play around and find something that helps. It's got to be better then me hanging onto him, can't be doing his mouth any good.
 
I'm not saying it's not a training issue, but if a different bit helps with that then I'm happy to play around and find something that helps. It's got to be better then me hanging onto him, can't be doing his mouth any good.

No but what everyone is trying to suggest is changing the bit isnt the answer. He will do it eventually on any bit regardless of what it is over time, if you don't fix the training issue first. Changing bits just masks the problem for a while longer.
 
No but what everyone is trying to suggest is changing the bit isnt the answer. He will do it eventually on any bit regardless of what it is over time, if you don't fix the training issue first. Changing bits just masks the problem for a while longer.

I know it's not the answer. I am working on the training issue. He is 5, so still young. I don't have a school. All my schooling is done whilst out hacking.
 
Neue schule universal trans angled lozenge, will give you some greater control and is a kind bit in the right hands. I ride my Clydesdale, half Clyde and half shire in this particular bit.
 
N S+ verbindend - it helps lift the shoulder I've found my traditional goes fab in it (and yes it did involve a lot of schooling as well) but this bit definitely helped along the way...
 
If your arms feel sore imagine what his mouth must feel like ( in fact don't imagine, clean up a bit, pop it in your mouth and have a go!).

I'd be tempted to try him bitless, maybe in one of the head huggy type options like Dr Cooks, until you get the schooling sorted. Wouldn't immediately think of a sidepull (my fave bitless) or a hackamore as they also give opposing pressure for him to set against. The Dr Cooks/similar redustribute the directly opposite pressure.

So, sort of like the Waterford option in that it isn't as easy to set against but without putting a bicycle chain in his mouth :-)

Obvs try in unexciting places first.
 
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