Bit for a strong cob

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cobmum

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Just want to know what HHO would recommend for a strong cob with little breaks who is currently ridden in a Pelham.

Horse very much rushes and holds head high and fights anytension on the reins.

I am just interested to know what suggestions are given as i have no clue about bits!

Dont own horse just seen it ridden and know that owner is unsure after lots of suggestions from people which on research dont seem the right option.
 
I ride an extremely strong cob with the neck of a Shire stallion (I'm not joking, it's ludicrous :O). My lad does exactly the same as the horse you mention and I ride him in a Dutch gag with a martingale and flash. He's on the first ring (softest) for flatwork and occasionally hacking depending on his mood, and if he hasn't jumped for a while then he's on the second ring for that but I try to ride him on the softest ring as much as possible.
Don't know if this is much help but he works wonderfully in it and realy seems to like it.
 
Another vote for waterford. Also I would change the bit pretty frequently ,say once a month, try eggbutt snaffle and the pelham again. Should keep the horse thinking rather than trying to work out ways to evade or tank off.
 
If he's fighting his current bit, either the rider's hands are too harsh, or the bit is.
Either way, go softer with the bitting.
Waterfords make them curl behind the bit (a foul habit to get rid of, much worse than fighting and holding the head up).
S :D
 
Im glad people agree, useing a strong bit is just using force, and masking the problem. Usually if i find a horse "strong" i would put him/her in a snaffle and do alot without reins so the horse has nothing to prop itself on and has to find its own natural balance that is the only way to create TRUE lightness, not by forcing it in at the front. If you grab at the reins the horse will grab back, natural reaction. :)
 
the big cob has a hanging cheek french link for schooling but is relegated to a kimblewick for hacking as although he is reasonably well schooled and can be nice and light in the hand, all memory of this goes out the window when either a) we are cantering in company (I am the most important and MUST be in front) or b) he puts his head down to buck ;)
 
Sounds like the horse in OP thread is in pain! Agree with the other posts saying go for a gentler bit and retrain. Also have teeth and back checked.
 
^ that, am disappointed in you all who didn't mention that beforehand :p

Back, (all) tack and teeth should be a priority.
 
I love it when people revert to the old - 'it's a schooling issue, it needs to be in a snaffle' line - of course but it doesn't mean she will be able to hack out in a snaffle over night! So OP what could you try in the meantime as the schooling isn't going to have an immediate and lasting effect....

My girl is responsive and now (after a bit of work) fairly light in the school but out hacking she CAN be strong - no tanking though, just strong and taking 7/8 strides to get a response down from canter for example. The most effective bit I have found so far is a myler - the low port comfort snaffle (eggbutt). Yesterday, for example, I needed very little contact while out in this and she listened well, no pulling required, she isn't heavy in it - and this is the mare who could drag you in a Waterford - go figure!
 
Assuming horse is fit and healthy, if there is no schooling issue with the horse then there is a schooling issue with the rider. Never any need for harsh bits, you can always work the problem in a different way without inflicting pain. :)
 
The two horses mentioned are completely different though. Its one thing to need a bit of extra brakes when cantering on a hack but think that when a horse is throwing its head up high and evading any contact whatsoever, it is an indicator that there may be something causing the horse pain. By process of elimination, if everything is OK, then start looking at schooling and trying different bits. There is no quick fix when it comes to horses IMHO. :)
 
MiJodsR2BlinkinTite said:
Ha ha ha!!! Sorry, I shouldn't, but LOL :) :) :)

Anybody wanna try my traddie out hunting with a snaffle???

Industrial size tin of valium offered to all comers.................. coz by god you'd need it :)
Click to expand...

Indeed. My competition, snaffle at home, competing needs short shank myler. Rather have plenty of brakes & not a heavy horse.
 
I agree with schooling, back teeth have been checked also recently been checked by vet in case anything missed.

Is there any specific books or excersices i can reccomend?
 
Mine will run through a pelham or gag if he gets strong & you have to take a pull. He's got a soft mouth, he's schooled in a rubber snaffle, just gets excited in company. I agree with Shilasdair, I've got better brakes in a fulmer snaffle than almost anything else. Because I can take a pull occasionally, if necessary, and he won't fight it. Plus, even when I don't have total control of speed (we do a lot of extended trot as a compromise between walk/gallop!) I've always got good steering. At the end of the day, if he's going to tank off I'd rather he did it well balanced & in the direction I choose, than unbalanced with his head in the air, no steering no brakes, not looking where he's going & fighting me every step of the way. A double bridle gives me a little more control, but I'd really rather not pull him around in that.
 
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