Bitey pup

[Flowerofthefen]

Pup is coming on lovely. We are managing to stop her biting the other dog with a firm ' no' but she still bites us. It bloody hurts with needle teeth!! She is a 4 month old parsons. We try and divert her to a toy or treat but being a terrier she just doesn't give up!! Any advice greatly received as otherwise she is lovely.

 

[Pearlsacarolsinger]

Don't let her do it! Remove your fingers with a firm 'No!'. Don't put your fingers near her mouth, don't put temptation in her way. Give her toys that she can mouth/chew safely. She does need to chew from a psychological pov and physically to develop her muscles and when she is the right age to help her baby teeth fall out.

 

[Flowerofthefen]

Don't let her do it! Remove your fingers with a firm 'No!'. Don't put your fingers near her mouth, don't put temptation in her way. Give her toys that she can mouth/chew safely. She does need to chew from a psychological pov and physically to develop her muscles and when she is the right age to help her baby teeth fall out.

She has loads of stuff to chew. I try and keep my fingers out of the way but then she will get my arm so I use my hand to push her away and say 'no' she then grabs at my hand. I think she is teething badly but that's no excuse.

 

[CorvusCorax]

You have to expect it to happen and literally offer her/show her the toy/have it handy and start a game to redivert her.
She won't know 'oh this is wrong, I'd better go and find a toy to play with'.

Pushing her away/moving quickly and emitting noise (especially anything high pitched/frustrated) is just making it a game/making yourself prey.

 

[Christmascinnamoncookie]

Frozen carrots might be useful.

 

[twiggy2]

If she is persistent with biting any part if you even when an alternative is offered stand up, if she jumps up or continues biting bits she can get then leave the room, all done slowly and calmly, pushing her away just makes it a game.
If she is on the furniture then put a light line on her when she is supervised and remove her from the furniture if she gets bitey, again remain cool and calm.

 

[Flowerofthefen]

You have to expect it to happen and literally offer her/show her the toy/have it handy and start a game to redivert her.
She won't know 'oh this is wrong, I'd better go and find a toy to play with'.

Pushing her away/moving quickly and emitting noise (especially anything high pitched/frustrated) is just making it a game/making yourself prey.

We offer her the toy/ treat but we are obviously more tasty!! I expect her to try to bite as she is a young pup but it's really starting to hurt!

 

[Flowerofthefen]

If she is persistent with biting any part if you even when an alternative is offered stand up, if she jumps up or continues biting bits she can get then leave the room, all done slowly and calmly, pushing her away just makes it a game.
If she is on the furniture then put a light line on her when she is supervised and remove her from the furniture if she gets bitey, again remain cool and calm.

Good ideas, thank you. It spoils her because she is coming on really well. Will give this a try.

 

[CanteringCarrot]

You have to expect it to happen and literally offer her/show her the toy/have it handy and start a game to redivert her.
She won't know 'oh this is wrong, I'd better go and find a toy to play with'.

Pushing her away/moving quickly and emitting noise (especially anything high pitched/frustrated) is just making it a game/making yourself prey.

There are many schools of thought on this. Some feel as though redirecting with a toy or game is good, others feel at it rewards the biting or that they associate biting with getting your attention and a "thing" whether it's a toy or game.

My pups teeth have made contact with my skin all of 2 times. I say no, or make a sudden noise, and ignore her. I will calmly get up and remove myself, or completely look away. When she approaches me gently, I give her attention. It's not a game because I'm not playing.

It's the same when they go too hard on another dog. The other dog retreats and essentially says, that's too hard, I'm not playing. When the they register that, they will usually approach the other dog more gently to re-engage in play. Which the other dog accepts, because the boundary was established and this is acceptable. Just because you retreated it doesn't mean that you're prey, necessarily, it can mean that you dictate the interaction, on your terms.

Mine knows that biting a human is not acceptable nor is a it a way to interact or indicate anything. Approaching nicely gets you "the things" and licking is alright.

Both of my dogs picked up on this well and very quickly. They don't like being left out, rejected, or turned down, so they are willing to learn what it takes to be accepted.

I also do not do handsy things with my dogs. I don't play with my hands and their mouths. I do train them to accept me looking in their mouths, fiddling with their jowls, and teeth, but hands aren't mouthy play things. It's never cute, never encouraged.

I do use toys or games to redirect, especially when puppy had an obsession with the firewood kept indoors for the fireplace, but there were still some sharp No's and a leave it command was installed.

Puppies do need to chew, and I provide mine with many options. While I do usually support redirecting, and am not saying it doesn't work, the "cold shoulder" method has worked for me. I can think of a few instances when it might not work, and just like with horses, I don't necessarily train them all the same way, but ultimately get the same results.

 

[Flowerofthefen]

There are many schools of thought on this. Some feel as though redirecting with a toy or game is good, others feel at it rewards the biting or that they associate biting with getting your attention and a "thing" whether it's a toy or game.

My pups teeth have made contact with my skin all of 2 times. I say no, or make a sudden noise, and ignore her. I will calmly get up and remove myself, or completely look away. When she approaches me gently, I give her attention. It's not a game because I'm not playing.

It's the same when they go too hard on another dog. The other dog retreats and essentially says, that's too hard, I'm not playing. When the they register that, they will usually approach the other dog more gently to re-engage in play. Which the other dog accepts, because the boundary was established and this is acceptable. Just because you retreated it doesn't mean that you're prey, necessarily, it can mean that you dictate the interaction, on your terms.

Mine knows that biting a human is not acceptable nor is a it a way to interact or indicate anything. Approaching nicely gets you "the things" and licking is alright.

Both of my dogs picked up on this well and very quickly. They don't like being left out, rejected, or turned down, so they are willing to learn what it takes to be accepted.

I also do not do handsy things with my dogs. I don't play with my hands and their mouths. I do train them to accept me looking in their mouths, fiddling with their jowls, and teeth, but hands aren't mouthy play things. It's never cute, never encouraged.

I do use toys or games to redirect, especially when puppy had an obsession with the firewood kept indoors for the fireplace, but there were still some sharp No's and a leave it command was installed.

Puppies do need to chew, and I provide mine with many options. While I do usually support redirecting, and am not saying it doesn't work, the "cold shoulder" method has worked for me. I can think of a few instances when it might not work, and just like with horses, I don't necessarily train them all the same way, but ultimately get the same results.

Thank you. She loves attention so perhaps the cold shoulder might work.

 

[ArklePig]

My dog was like this, she was 1 when we got her though, she was just ill mannered because no one taught her otherwise.

I tried everything mentioned here, but the only thing that actually worked for us was calmly getting up and leaving the room. We also had to enlist this for humping, and trying to eat the sofa. Those timeouts literally saved my life. She decided she preferred having us around and made the connection. I feel for you, it is painful!

 

[Flowerofthefen]

My dog was like this, she was 1 when we got her though, she was just ill mannered because no one taught her otherwise.

I tried everything mentioned here, but the only thing that actually worked for us was calmly getting up and leaving the room. We also had to enlist this for humping, and trying to eat the sofa. Those timeouts literally saved my life. She decided she preferred having us around and made the connection. I feel for you, it is painful!

You've done wonders with yours. Will try the cold shoulder!!

 

[ArklePig]

I wouldn't say that just yet, still a couple of Big Issues to tackle (seperation anxiety, being better on the lead, etc etc) but we will all get there eventually! Any pics of your puppy? Sorry if they're elsewhere and I've missed them!

 

[Morwenna]

Mine got bitey when she was over-tired or needed a poo. I let her in the garden first and if she didn’t need a poo she would be put in her crate. She’d always be snoring within 5 minutes. She still occasionally gets a bit nippy now so I see if she needs to go out and if not do as the above poster and leave the room. Don’t say anything, just calmly get up and go into a different room, come back and sit down without acknowledging her. It is still a work in progress but she’s getting much better.

 

[Flowerofthefen]

Mine got bitey when she was over-tired or needed a poo. I let her in the garden first and if she didn’t need a poo she would be put in her crate. She’d always be snoring within 5 minutes. She still occasionally gets a bit nippy now so I see if she needs to go out and if not do as the above poster and leave the room. Don’t say anything, just calmly get up and go into a different room, come back and sit down without acknowledging her. It is still a work in progress but she’s getting much better.

She is definitely worse when she is tired. I try to make sure we pop her in her crate before she gets too tired but a few times the biting has started before she has been created. And as if by magic, tonight she hasn't tried to bite at all!!

 

[misst]

All of the above and be consistent. She is a terrier and they are stubborn little creatures. Our youngest one was the worst little monkey we have ever owned. Ignoring was not effective, so we redirected, did a sort Ouch! sound and just kept saying no. Strangely I cannot remember when it stopped. She does still "mouth" our hands but never ever hurts or puts pressure on us. It is usually for attention. We don't mind this as it is very gentle and part of a game. However if we want her to stop a "uh uh" negative sound or an "ouch" even it doesn't hurt works well. She is three now and I think it stopped around 18 months so it was hard work, but TBH everything with this little dog was hard work and her breeder admitted her sisters were the same and never bred from the same pairing again! She is a super little friendly, confident, properly "nice" dog now but she took longer than expected to get there. Parsons JRTs can be hard work but worth the effort.

 

[Pearlsacarolsinger]

I think I must be missing something here. This is a small terrier, how can she reach to bite your arms? If she is sitting on rhe furniture with you,rather than you getting up and walking away, I would put her down on the floor, immediately if she goes to bite. If you are sitting on the floor with her, by all means stand up but, as with the horses, I try not to allow my dogs to move me around. So i wouldnt sit on the floir with her. If she finds that you leave her sitting on the furniture by herself if she bites you, you will soon find that she thinks that she rules the roost.

 

[CorvusCorax]

There are many schools of thought on this. Some feel as though redirecting with a toy or game is good, others feel at it rewards the biting or that they associate biting with getting your attention and a "thing" whether it's a toy or game.

My pups teeth have made contact with my skin all of 2 times. I say no, or make a sudden noise, and ignore her. I will calmly get up and remove myself, or completely look away. When she approaches me gently, I give her attention. It's not a game because I'm not playing.

It's the same when they go too hard on another dog. The other dog retreats and essentially says, that's too hard, I'm not playing. When the they register that, they will usually approach the other dog more gently to re-engage in play. Which the other dog accepts, because the boundary was established and this is acceptable. Just because you retreated it doesn't mean that you're prey, necessarily, it can mean that you dictate the interaction, on your terms.

Mine knows that biting a human is not acceptable nor is a it a way to interact or indicate anything. Approaching nicely gets you "the things" and licking is alright.

Both of my dogs picked up on this well and very quickly. They don't like being left out, rejected, or turned down, so they are willing to learn what it takes to be accepted.

I also do not do handsy things with my dogs. I don't play with my hands and their mouths. I do train them to accept me looking in their mouths, fiddling with their jowls, and teeth, but hands aren't mouthy play things. It's never cute, never encouraged.

I do use toys or games to redirect, especially when puppy had an obsession with the firewood kept indoors for the fireplace, but there were still some sharp No's and a leave it command was installed.

Puppies do need to chew, and I provide mine with many options. While I do usually support redirecting, and am not saying it doesn't work, the "cold shoulder" method has worked for me. I can think of a few instances when it might not work, and just like with horses, I don't necessarily train them all the same way, but ultimately get the same results.

Yes, but terrier ?

 

[CanteringCarrot]

Yes, but terrier ?

LOL

I do not own terriers. Only Labradors and Mastiffs. By choice. ?

 

[Flowerofthefen]

I think I must be missing something here. This is a small terrier, how can she reach to bite your arms? If she is sitting on rhe furniture with you,rather than you getting up and walking away, I would put her down on the floor, immediately if she goes to bite. If you are sitting on the floor with her, by all means stand up but, as with the horses, I try not to allow my dogs to move me around. So i wouldnt sit on the floir with her. If she finds that you leave her sitting on the furniture by herself if she bites you, you will soon find that she thinks that she rules the roost.

Yes sorry, she is allowed on the furniture. Will be consistent in putting her on the floor, just need to avoid the teeth...

 

[Flowerofthefen]

LOL

I do not own terriers. Only Labradors and Mastiffs. By choice. ?

We have a fox red as well and they are like chalk and cheese!! Live watching them on lups little walks though, best buddies!!

 

[EllieBeast]

Depending on when she’s doing it- my husband came up with the tactic that if they’re trying to bite your hand/finger, roll their lip over the tooth so when they bite down- they catch themself… works a treat!

Otherwise - disengage with her as soon as she starts this. And if it’s likely that she’s overtired- into the crate with something she likes to chew (that isn’t you ?)

 

[twiggy2]

I think I must be missing something here. This is a small terrier, how can she reach to bite your arms? If she is sitting on rhe furniture with you,rather than you getting up and walking away, I would put her down on the floor, immediately if she goes to bite. If you are sitting on the floor with her, by all means stand up but, as with the horses, I try not to allow my dogs to move me around. So i wouldnt sit on the floir with her. If she finds that you leave her sitting on the furniture by herself if she bites you, you will soon find that she thinks that she rules the roost.

If she is chewing a person because she enjoys it that person leaving will be an unwanted result not a wanted one. Only if she is biting to make you go away (far less likely in a puppy) is it what the puppy will want.
You are controlling what she allowed to bite by removing it not giving her what she wants.
Removing her from the sofa may work for you OP but just be mindful that you are putting your hands and arms into her space (and then probably having to remove them quickly before the biting atarts again so encouraging chasing and catching behaviours) to do it so the same as pushing her away you may be inciting more biting and play rather than less.
Good luck

 

[Pearlsacarolsinger]

Yes sorry, she is allowed on the furniture. Will be consistent in putting her on the floor, just need to avoid the teeth...

Consistency is the key. If you put her onto the floor *every single time* that she goes to bite you, she will soon get the message. She will learn that it is unacceptable behaviour. There's nothing wrong intrinsically with allowing your dog to sit on the furniture, I am currently sitting with 3 Labs on our settee. BUT sitting on the furniture is a privilege at this house. And I have had jrts in the past, they sat in the furniture too.


Eta, it's a small puppy with small puppy teeth, not a shark, so in the short term, even if she does manage to bite you as you put her down, you won't sustain much damage and in fact the immediacy of landing on the floor almost simultaneously with making contact with her teeth will soon get the message across.
It is very easy to teach inadvertently, the exact opposite of what you want, which is why I wouldn't leave the pup sitting on the furniture on her own.