Bitless bridle for jumping?

[Harri Green]

Hi guys,

I'm considering trying a bitless bridle for jumping my mare. She gets keen to a fence, she's young and green etc. Nothing major wrong, but my dentist saw her immediately after jumping training today and said he could see some trauma to the gums where she has been pulling, or more like where I have been pulling! Also I sometimes catch her in the mouth when she takes off soon/late.
I should point out this isn't some unschooled happy hack, she's well schooled for flat work and comes onto the bit with ease, is completely soft in the mouth for everything except jumping.
Yes, more training needed to settle her to a fence, agreed! but ld like to hear from those of you who have success jumping bitless and which bits you use.

TIA xx

 

[Tern]

If you're confident with steering using only your legs and very little hand aid then I'd say go for it.

For jumping I wouldn't consider a Dr Cook or similar I would be going for a hackamore.

What bit is she currently in?

 

[fredflop]

If you catch her in the mouth I wouldn't advise a hackamore at all, they can be very severe

 

[Batgirl]

Hmm, a hackamore can be harsher but they do sometimes pull less with them as it is a different sensation and they don't want to lean/pull against you. but you do need good hands to go with them.

My retired loanee was jumped in a hackamore for everything inc eventing.

 

[Palindrome]

agree for hackamore. For the catching in the mouth perhaps worth looking into establishing a solid 2 points position and approaching already in 2 points, with that technique you shouldn't be moving much really as you are up in the stirrups with the center of gravity just above the saddle and if grabbing a bit of mane mid neck there is no chance of catching the mouth (as the neck lengthen your hands will have to follow).

 

[NZJenny]

Hackamore or side pull for jumping. The Dr Cook's don't have a very good release - I tried and it wasn't great. The Light Rider was fine, and you read a lot of uninformed comments about hackamores, but they are great. Like anything good riding is going to be the key to success. Have fun!

 

[Jenni&Ditty]

I jumped a horse in a micklem on the bitless setting the other day. It seemed to work well and it has 3 different settings of strength.

 

[rosie-ellie]

I jump, ride in Dr cooks and love it

 

[Harri Green]

Thanks for all the useful comments guys. Totally agree, I shouldn't be catching her in the mouth, but at least I can admit it's happening sometimes and work to correct it.
Would love to hear any more opinions on the Micklem.
She's currently in the informed designs curved mullen mouth loose ring snaffle.

Thanks guys x

 

[fredflop]

We are not all perfect riders, and if you know you can catch her in the mouth, you are looking at solving/helping the problem. Nothing wrong with that!

 

[Brightbay]

I use a Micklem bitless but I don't do much jumping - just pop the occasional log out hacking, and my horse (possibly because he's always been ridden bitless) isn't strong and doesn't rush jumps. I understand rushing jumps can sometimes be anticipation of discomfort from horses who have been caught in the mouth over jumps, so using a bitless bridle with these horses may actually mean they're less strong and less rushed rather than less controllable as many people seem to assume.

Given that, it would definitely be worth a try with your horse to see how they respond. Lots of people jump in hackamores, but there are also a range of hackamores almost equivalent to a range of bits. So a bridle attachment called the Orbitless would be the mildest form of hackamore (depending on where you attach the reins, one setting is like riding off a headcollar, one setting like a mild hackamore with some lever action). Then Barefoot Saddles do one called the Barefoot Bitless Bit - slightly stronger than the Orbitless. Next up would be the English Hackamore - quite a bit stronger with longer "arms" - and finally the German Hackamore, quite severe with long arms (think of the differences between a snaffle, a bubble bit and a Western shank bit).
You can also change the action by changing the curb strap.
The key thing to remember with hackamores is that, because of the shanks, steering is often not as accurate. Better with the milder versions, IME. The Micklem is also good for this - it doesn't use shanks or leverage like a hackamore, it's either a sidepull, a scawbrig (tightens around the nose) or a crossunder like a Dr. Cook.
I would suggest starting with a mild one like the Orbitless and see how you get on

 

[Harri Green]

Excellent stuff! I've saved this post and I'll get googling. Thanks so much! Might hire the Orbitless now xx