Bits used for schooling a strong horse??

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BethanHorseMad

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So I have a 14.2hh forward going cob, 8 years old but has never been schooled before so I'm working on it now as i'm hacking along the roads (we don't have a school). He does try to cooperate but he has always been strong (continental snaffle with french link most of his riding life). I recently got him to start going on the bit in the continental in walk and a bit in trot, so I changed it to the snaffle as that is the basic schooling bit and we are not too successful... was wondering if the loose ring snaffle is a bit too 'weak' for him as he does have quite a hard mouth and short neck- cobs also had a bit of a reputation of being strong too ;) Any advice on bits, also what you would reccommend to do to get him on the bit as I have been taught many different ways! X
 
Sounds as though he leans and gets hold of it. How about a loose ring waterford. Will help to prevent him leaning and it is actually not too severe. It should help you school him and encourage him not to pull. Then you can go back to your snaffle when he is working better and just use waterford when you need to remind him
 
When you say a basic snaffle do you mean a single-jointed one? If so I'd change it for a French-link mouthpiece. You might need to experiment with loose-ring/eggbut to see which he goes best in. Loose ring is usually recommended for horses which have a tendency to lean.
 
Hi I have a short necked built like an outhouse cob, have owned him since he was 4 always had a stallion like crest and decided there and then, no way was i going to get in an argument with that neck. I always warm him up with lots of lateral work leg yielding, shoulder in, travers, trot to halt, rein back and then straight to trot, it loosens him up gets everything working and hey presto he has learnt to carry himself. But takes time for the horse to build up the correct muscles for this. Difficult without a school, but maybe shoulder in on tracks using a hedge as your rail.

I have arthritis in my back affecting my shoulders and my arms are weak so no way can i ride a horse that i have to hold up.

Problem with bitting up, is the horse can just get strong and stronger, and they are stronger than us and you will end up with arms like a weightlifter.

Getting the horse to take more weight on his hind, forget about the front, if you do the exercises this will come as and when the horse achieves the correct musles to enable him to carry himself.

Have had other people ride my cob and some say he is heavy on their hands, thats because they are too strong with their hands.

He is ridden in a mullen mouth baucher, before my arthritis he was ridden in a loose ring happy mouth snaffle.

Hope that helps.
 
Personally i dont care about an outline. As long as he turns, stops and starts when asked, and jumps any jump i put infront of him, then he is using his backend. The front end sorts itsself out when he is very fit. I dont like the whole "my horse worksd in a lovely outline" when I isnt even tracking up in walk and trot! Mine overtracks at least 6", with his head sticking out.

I LOVE cheltenham gags in horses that pull though - they are only as severe as your hands make them. They are virtually impossible to lean on. They can be really misused though. Work a try to see what your horse thinks, then go back to the snaffle when he doesnt lean anymore/less. Try and make sure hes fit enough to work properly though, before you ask too much of him, as someone said before.
 
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Totally agree GeeUp&Go we need to chill out about the front end and maybe we wouldn't see so many false outlines. This is in no way directed at the first post.
 
Are you asking him to go on the bit then stay there for the rest of the ride? If so he's probably getting an aching neck/back numb mouth and leaning. Only ask for short periods at first and build up gradually. Intersperse work on the bit with stretching on a long rein.

You've got two choices with the bit. Either stay in the continental snaffle (this is the thing also known as dutch gag/3 ring bubble bit?) while you work on getting a consistent outline, then when he does that easily in the continental snaffle, switch to a basic loose ring French link snaffle and be prepared to go backwards a little with the training, working on achieving a consistent outline again in this new bit.

Or change to the basic loose ring French link snaffle now, forgetting about outline for a while. Instead work on steering, brakes, response to the leg, transitions, rein back, some lateral work if roads are quiet enough. As he becomes better balanced, starts carrying himself and stops leaning on your hands, you will be automatically getting a better outline and can start to work specifically on improving this.
 
I would go with a loose ring lozenge type bit and go back to absolute basics (I think that's what you are doing) and if he leans give him a 'little' tug upwards with your hands then release. When I say hands I wouldn't do both at same time, would depend which hand he was leaning on most. I know it's difficult to let go when they feel strong but they can only lean/pull if they have something to lean/pull against.

He needs to learn life with is easier for him when he lets go. Getting him to let go is easier said than done I know.
 
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