bolshy cob

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missieh

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Any advice for a bolshy cob that is absolutely fine to ride out, but can take the p*** a bit when being led in the from the field, by simply tanking off and taking ages to catch, en route to the stables? He also has issues standing still to be groomed which I just persevere with until eventually he just stands there absolutely fine. I've only had him a short while and don't want this to develop into a bigger problem than it is at the moment, which is just blimming annoying as I know he's just trying it on!
 
Ground work, ground work, ground work. Respect at all times. To start this will involve either a controller halter or you can use a good old dog choke chain threaded under the chin through the head collar.

He has to move over, back up, stay by your shoulder with no tension on the rope, ie a partner with you. If the controller chain/halter does not work, then accept you will need a rope or old leg strap to flick then back and over and then a short whip if that does not get the response. Some cobs have very tough skin and little reaction to a poke. What would make my old TB shift 6' sideways gets a slight movement on my gypsy cob and clydesdale. That said, they will now normally move on the touch of a finger and voice command.

I have a clydesdale and a gypsy cob - both substantial animals. Chancer the cob will take the pee if he gets a new handler, and I often put the chain on his chin the first few times so they can give him a tug so he knows they are not something he can walk over.

Cobs are generally fearless, intelligent and can suss out a soft hearted person and trample them, hence from the start, black and white rules, a lot of work in the school, and if necessary resort to controllers, rope or stick. I prefer to start soft and build up. I have also had a NH trainer come in which was very interesting and teaching me how to back them through poles etc and really getting them in partnership, could be a thought.

Mine are asked once, ie voice and finger, told second, a hard poke and third is demanded - this will involve a rope or a stick depending on what I have to hand - a tap is normally all it takes. I rarely have to use stage 3 or a chain these days as they have swiftly learnt that asked is best, and demand is not comfortable.

Ditto the standing to be groomed. I have crossed tied before to get the message through, stand and it is nice, don't and you are cross tied. I also have flicked with an old leg strap to get the backside from swinging - worked very quickly and now a hand on the rump stops them. When they stand nicely they are praised, and sometimes get a treat - mine are not bolshy with treats, so when they are very well behaved, I can give them the occasional reward which is working well with Farra and her feet and standing by the mounting block issues - she is far more sensitive than Chancer, so rarely gets a stick, but gentle words and the occasional treat, though there are times when the rope is flicked on her with handling if she decides she wants to pull.

Good luck and I hope you get things sorted.
 
missieh said:
Any advice for a bolshy cob that is absolutely fine to ride out, but can take the p*** a bit when being led in the from the field, by simply tanking off and taking ages to catch, en route to the stables? He also has issues standing still to be groomed which I just persevere with until eventually he just stands there absolutely fine. I've only had him a short while and don't want this to develop into a bigger problem than it is at the moment, which is just blimming annoying as I know he's just trying it on!
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Hi Missieh
Having had exactly the same problem with my Welsh D for the past 3 years, just wanted to a) sympathise with you and b) recommend a chain with your leadrope...I was at the stage where I was going to get richard maxwell out....a few people on BD forum suggested a chain over his nose for a quick reminder about who is in charge when he tried to bugger off and what do you know...he is like a lamb now. I was leading him everwhere in a bridle before, he was very very strong and I never trusted him.....just be aware tho, that if you have only had him a short while he may still be settling in, I have actually had to move mine to a yeard with better grazing as he was bolting for any blade of grass he could find....have a think about any other issues which may be affecting him too..is he happy in his field? is he being bullied by others? is he hungry...that kind of thing....good luck
 
My boy wouldn't stand when I first had him. Now however he'll stand outside his stable in the sun for aslong as I let him whilst trying to steal his neighbours' food. I would use a brush that he likes for a few weeks - my boy likes the brushes he can feel that massage rather than hard bristles for mud!

Also as above - ground work and pressure halter!
 
If all else fails, either a chifney or a bridle to lead until he learns that you are the boss. We had a sh!t of a 14hh welsh cob, and he'd just tank off when you brought him in from the field. As his jockey (and therefore main carer) was a very skinny little girl, he was immediately put in a chifney for her safety when leading him. Within a few attempts, he realised the power had shifted and walked along as meek as you like, so A could lead him just using the headcollar leadrope but knowing the chifney one was there id he took the piss...
 
I had the exact same problem with my 2 year old cob when I got him to my new yard back in September. Bugger to catch, tanked off at every chance, I just couldn't hold on to him.

But after a lot of ground work, he's a complete dope on a rope now :) I did a lot of leading in a bridle and with a chain. I got to learn when he was thinking about doing something naughty and stop it before it happened. You just need to show them you're in charge, and this did take a couple of months for me but it is totally worth it now :)

He was the same with being groomed etc. would swing his arse around and fidgit. I worked on distracting him with hay and giving him a telling off when he tried to swing into me. A good jab in the hind leg soon got him learning to move when I asked. Another good thing is turning their head to bring them round if they're being stubben and holding it there (if you can) to stop them swinging back. They soon get the idea. He was a compelte pain with having his feet picking out too, but lots of holding his leg up whilst he pissed about (if he went down, that was his own fault) and rewards of a polo when he did it well got him sorted. He now picks them up for me in anticipation, it's fab :)

As for catching, my boy lives for food. So I started taking a little in the field with a bucket. I'd go to him, get him interested and then catch him. I slowly moved it out of the field and to his stable over a period of weeks and he now comes to call :)

I know it sounds like a lot of work, but tbh, once you start doing it, it just becomes second nature and then one day, you'll suddenly realise you have a very respectful horse and a great bond of trust. I had this moment yesterday and it is such a great feeling.

Good luck and let us know how things get on :)
 
Agree with "Theresa" above; its gotta be ground work, plus a pressure halter (but don't be afraid to get advice with how to use it coz if used wrongly it can hinder the situation not help).

Being firm but fair is the thing; the horse needs to respect you and your space as herd leader and it is "rude" for him to come into your space. He needs to learn that, and the only way is via groundwork. There isn't any short cuts!!!

Personally I would just concentrate on close-work on the ground, for now, then when he's ready, do ridden work, but its about him listening to you and respecting you - that's the important thing. Cobs can be sweety-pies and really quiet and docile (when it suits 'em) but if they start being rude and bolshy they can be right pains in the neck and will take the P*ss big-time if they're allowed.
 
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