buttercup overload!

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staceyn

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As title the field is rammed with buttercups and I have no idea how to get rid. Worried the horses will eat them by accident there is so many any ideas ?
 
The only way to rid pastures of buttercup is by spraying with a broadleaf-specific weed killer such as M50. Have just done mine, and it is important to control as they are toxic.
 
So if I put them in the second field and use weed killer how long before they can go back on the field wouldn't the weed killer be toxic ?
 
These weedkillers act on the stem, root and leaf causing giant growth, so they don't poison the soils as such, the usual time to leave them is two weeks, but with horses, I would rather wait as long as possible. Make sure you read directions. Farmers will often do this for you but again make sure you read the directions.
 
Oh I see. I don't know any farmers around here but the yard owners said they used to just leave it but frank had sloppy poos yesterday so they need sorting any good weed killers that you know?
 
Just paid £65 to have 3 acres sprayed (in lancs) (mainly to kill off the buttercups) our local farmer did it for us and he said that the horses only need to be off the field for 7 - 10 days.
Farmer also said the more the buttercups have grown the better the weed killer works he did also say that it would not harm the grass :O)
 
Deseado said:
The only way to rid pastures of buttercup is by spraying with a broadleaf-specific weed killer such as M50. Have just done mine, and it is important to control as they are toxic.
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Total tosh.
Buttercups THRIVE in acidic soil. The more acidic, the more you will have!
Lime your fields. That will stop them growing and improve the quality of your pasture.
M50/Grazon90 will do them for that year, but unless you treat the root problem (namely the acidity in the soil) you are going to have them come back again and again.
 
I'm sorry but lime will only help if your soil pH is out of line, its pointless and a waste of money to apply it otherwise.

I have one 'problem' paddock and the pH is perfect. But it lies wet and so is only used in the summer and then it tends to be over grazed due to worrying about lami.

So what I'm trying to say there is more than one reason for buttercups. Lime might help but a soil test is your 1st port of call

Grazon is not particularly good at killing buttercups - look it up if you don't believe me

I've sprayed with Headland Relay this year and the yellow peril is greatly reduced :)
 
joeanne said:
Total tosh.
Buttercups THRIVE in acidic soil. The more acidic, the more you will have!
Lime your fields. That will stop them growing and improve the quality of your pasture.
M50/Grazon90 will do them for that year, but unless you treat the root problem (namely the acidity in the soil) you are going to have them come back again and again.
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I agree, its often the case. Its too late for this year though. Although you could spread it Ag Lime takes a while to get into the soil. I used to sell the stuff. Agree about the soil test. I dont know if they still do it but we used to soil test for free, assuming we would get the business if lime was needed.

And be careful of Lami afterwards. It makes the grass much greener and sweeter
 
FF all the main ones that target broadleaf plants will kill plaintain, they are nowhere near as tough to get rid of as buttercups :)

Of the ones I've personally used Grazon, Headland Polo and Headland Relay will def get rid of them. I'm sure there's many more. Grazon only seems to give buttercups a temporary headache though :D
 
Hi,

Newbie here, so please be gentle!

This is the problem we have in our 2 acre paddock, nearly as much spreading buttercup as grass, with a few docks thrown in for good measure. I've read about spraying and the addition of calcified seaweed, but have a few queries on both.

a, Is it possible/practicle to hand spray a paddock yourself or would it be too long winded? Is an individual allowed to buy these chemicals from somewhere like Mole Valley (our local country store) or do you need some special licence?

b, I understand the underlying problem may be acidic soil, and calcified seaweed is a good treatment for this. How do you test for soil acidity, and again, is it practicle to spread calcified seaweed by hand?

My thoughts are that I could treat one half of the paddock whilst keeping the horses in the other, then swap them over.

A local chap did say he'd spray it for us, but having reminded him several times I don't think he's that reliable, and I hate to keep on at him, so I applied the old adage "If you need something doing, do it yourself!".
 
Providing there is enough grass in the field, horses and cattle tend to avoid buttercups as they do other toxic weeds. When cut and dried as in hay, buttercups lose their toxidity and are harmless, unlike ragwort.

They thrive in acid soil, but also do well in other soils. Mowing or topping is not an effective control measure. Unfortunately, most herbicides also kill other plants which are beneficial to livestock in the sward, and after spraying you normally end up with just grass, but needs must.

Small areas I normally spray with a knapsack sprayer, targeting docks and buttercup infestations, rather than blanket spraying.
 
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TimmyT, yes its do'able to spray a 2 acred paddock with a knapsack sprayer. My problem paddock is about that size and I did it this year, BUT it took me around 10 hours over 3 days to do it (it was bad, but looks really good now, only a few buttercups) Plus side is you can be selective with a hand sprayer so won't kill all the other good stuff. I've always been told to do it before it flowers (although that was contradicted earlier in the thread so really not sure on that one)

I've bought all the chemicals over the web and never been asked for a license number or anything

You can get a basic soil tester from the garden centre, or some Ag Merchants offer a service (hoping to flog you fertiliser or whatever :D )

Spreading calcified seaweed by hand is easy, took me about an hour or so to do a similar size. Its good stuff :)
 
Selective spraying was my thought as well, seeing as the buttercups seem to be in a swathe across one area of the paddock. However, having just checked the Mole valley website, a knapsack sprayer is over £100, compared with £25 on ebay, so I reckon I may have to wait a few days to get on with it! Would the same spray treat the docks as well?

10 hrs spraying seems like a small chore compared with the 3 weeks it took me to dig all the ragwort with a fork when we first moved in a year ago! :D
 
Timmy T said:
Selective spraying was my thought as well, seeing as the buttercups seem to be in a swathe across one area of the paddock. However, having just checked the Mole valley website, a knapsack sprayer is over £100, compared with £25 on ebay, so I reckon I may have to wait a few days to get on with it! Would the same spray treat the docks as well?

10 hrs spraying seems like a small chore compared with the 3 weeks it took me to dig all the ragwort with a fork when we first moved in a year ago! :D
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You can often hire the sprayers, try your local tool hire. You will get a much better quality one than the 25 quid ones from ebay. Good quality big sprayer will do it much quicker too.

Dont forget the safety equipment, its a pain but that stuff can be harmful and sprayers put it into a fine mist which you cant see. Hire places usually supply them as part of the package. Run the sprayer through with clean water a few times in case its had other chemicals in.
 
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This looks like a good site for sales, advice and video, re ragwort, make sure you can recognise it at this time of year it looks like squat kale [a rosette of dark green curly serrated leaves].
http://www.progreen.co.uk/Weed-Kill.../For-Paddocks/Headland-Polo-10LT/prod_26.html
In general, broad leaved weed are to be sprayed at the three leaf stage, ie fairly small. Do not spray on a windy day, and wear a mask for spraying liquids not dust.
there are different exclusion times
http://www.progreen.co.uk/weed-killers/selectively-control-weeds-in-grass/for-paddocks/cat_28.html
Headland Polo is recommended for tractor boom sprays not knapsacks, but if you are only doing onefield and being careful, I think you will be fine
 
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As others have said - it's a sign your fields need lime scaling as buttercups tend to grown better in acidic soil. There seems to be a lot of them around this year so the weather must have had an affect on the soil, making it more acidic.
 
Timmy T said:
Hi,



a, Is it possible/practicle to hand spray a paddock yourself or would it be too long winded? Is an individual allowed to buy these chemicals from somewhere like Mole Valley (our local country store) or do you need some special licence?

.
Click to expand...

No licence needed to buy the stuff, but in theory you should be assessing safety and keeping calculations of concentrations/coverage etc. This esp applies to any fields on which single farm payment is being claimed by anyone.

One organisation came up with a proforma, even if not all filled in, it is something to show the SFP inspector if that is relevant for this land.
http://www.voluntaryinitiative.org.uk/_Attachments/resources/1033_S4.pdf
 
Grazon 90 is being discontinued this year I think?? I have used this very successfully on most things brilliant for docks and mine are moreless gone after being over run. Took two years. Now I just take a hand held when walking dog and squirt the odd one or two.

But yes overrun with Buttercups and grazon I dont think is for them as I tried last year. I know I am on acid soil and should lime etc but am going to try Headland polo as that is suitable for buttercups.

I think most of these are tractor type sprayer weedkiller but I usually do mine on back of quad and be v careful when handling etc etc.

I keep horses off about 3 weeks and longer if possible and wait for a few deluges of rain just for good measure.

Mine just eats round buttercups. In hay and dry the horse will eat them but just not fresh.

Am always reading on here for the solution..so next move headland polo!
 
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