Buying a rice trailer

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Chloeap

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Is this a good idea?

Trailer is over 20 years old, very good condition I think, and good price.
I am just worried because the company no longer exists - has anyone found it a problem to get spares or fixing issues?
Everything seems okay at the moment but I don't want to buy it to find I can't fix something that breaks.
 
Well I have a Bahill thats about 25yrs old based on the Rice design, any bits its needed my trailer man has found or made with no problems. Thinks he replaced brake parts, has new mudguards on, light covers easy to get on ebay. I've never had a problem. He did say about 5yrs ago they start to go wrong when they get to this age but no problems yet. Think as long as you look after it and get is serviced you should be fine.
 
The thing about older trailers (esp Rice) is that they are really pretty basic.

There's really nothing on the body which can't be easily fabricated (possibly more cheaply) if it's not available off the shelf.

Mechanical bits should be OK for a while, but again, if you have to change to (say) a new braking system it isn't too hard for a decent engineer.
 
I second what turnbuckle says. I had to replaced a piece which attaches the brake rod to the drum cables - The original was threaded and useless, but basically it's a mechanical linkage, so a scramble around for something suitably heavy-duty which will attach bolt A to cross-piece Y wasn't even worth the employ of a mechanic, provided you were happy to crawl underneath the thing.

If I'd been half handy with a lathe, I could have made one.
 
Brilliant, thanks everyone.
That is quite reassuring.
I am hopeless with this sort of this but have a rather handy dad and cousins husband who is local has a trailer (not horse) business. So between them hopefully they can solve any issues that may occur.
I am getting cousins husband to have a look at it before purchase. Already noticed 2 tires need replacing but everything else looks fine.
 
I've got an ancient Rice Leicester Farmers Hunt trailer and after quite a bit of labour but (touch wood) next to nothing mechanically difficult, it is a brilliant trailer to use. Sturdy and stable. If you have someone who's handy and can work things out.
BTW sorry to use this thread for this but I don't use these things much and don't know how best to start my own! My trailer has the screw down tow hitch with a handbrake that can be connected to some slots/ratchets. I was planning to fit a breakaway cable but have read that this type of old braking mechanism provided its own emergency handbrake operation. Does anyone know how it works and what I have to do? Thanks
 
A break away cable is required for trailers that were made after a certain year.

However the trailer you describe does not have its own "emergency" system
 
not even sure how old my rice is that I got a few years ago for a few hundred. My friend helped completely replace the floor with marine ply, i repainted it all myself, and rubber matted it and redid the ramp. it also needed new wheels (got cheap off mechanic friend). but ultimately the shell and the chassis were fine. repainted and oiled. cost less than £700 in total including purchase- and i know I have a sound floor and wheels. where as some newer trailer £1000 plus and they still might have bad floors/ tyres ect.

parts: we have a metal fabricators at a industrial yard around the corner from us. I needed a full width breast bar as my horse likes the whole trailer- and they measured and made it. also had someone else come out to fit a new latch to jockey door and side ramp. all pretty cheap- if anything can work out cheaper than original factory parts for ifor and other makes of trailer.
 
Yes, breakaway cables are mandatory on trailers manufactured post 1982 but mine is significantly older than that. If the trailer does not have an "emergency handbrake operation" does anyone know to what this (taken from NTTA) refers: "Some early Rice horse box trailers had an arrangement, similar to a breakaway cable, which applied the handbrake in an emergency." Thanks
 
The breakaway cable on old Rice boxes is different to more modern trailers. My Beaufort is 37 years old and we have just given it a complete brake overhaul. Most parts are no longer available, but as said above, they are quite simple. One of my brake expanders was seized and they are like unicorn poo to find, plus very expensive if you can find one. OH managed to get the thing apart, I soaked it in rust remover, painted it with zinc and put it back together, OH greased and refitted it and it is perfect.

I have photos of the rebuild if anyone is interested, but I'll put up a pic of the cable. There was one fitted, but it was connected to the bottom of the lever, so although it would have applied the brakes, the handbrake wouldn't have stayed on.
 
The end of the cable attaches to the triangular plates the hold the brake off in normal use, when it comes into effect, it pulls the plates down, which releases the pawl (think that's what it's called!) and the handbrake will come on. If it is attached to the bottom of the lever, like mine was, then the handbrake won't release and as soon as the cable breaks, the brakes come off again and your trailer will carry on, on its own. :eek:

WP_20160605_21_08_34_Pro_zps4ztqytyx.jpg
 
My Beaufort 60 has one of these. I drove off without screwing down the hitch (duh!) a couple of years ago, and it worked a treat - in fact, as I was only setting off slowly it actually stopped the towing vehicle!
 
The brakes on them are really good. Since the expander seized, I had been driving around, with horses on board and only braking on one axle. Did I notice? Nope, stopped fine!

Still very pleased it is fixed now!

I have new tyres too, and although the imperial originals are still available, they are extremely expensive and I doubt I'll find another set on ebay for £65, so I have gone metric. The trailer sits a little lower, as the tyres are slightly smaller, but they should be fine.
 
Hmmmn. I think my trailer is older/more basic that the one in the photo! I'll try to upload a photo later. I think the unit shown in your photo is what's known as "standard coupling and overrun unit" whilst I think I have the "heavy overrun brake unit".

As for tyres, I have gone with the (expensive) imperial ones (6.7 15 C I think) what metric ones have you found to replace them?
 
You can still get parts for the trailers. You can get most things from Warwickshire Trailers although they are a tad expensive and supply all Rice trailer parts. They also stock second hand Rice Richardson horse trailers.

http://www.wtltrailers.co.uk/.

Shocks and gas canisters for the dampers from Knott Avonride : http://www.knottuk.com/home/

Here is my Rice Richardson trailer. Dad has removed all the flooring, tongued and grooved the hardwood he bought for flooring and put rubber mats down. He has painted the outside at least three times now, hand painted a previous horses name in beautiful writing on the other side of the trailer and has replaced the hessian and struts on the rear ramp. He put a mirror on the outside of the trailer at the front and a spot light above so I can look through my rear view mirror when I hitch up and it shows me the top of the tow bar and I can position it over the tow ball to save getting out and checking I am lined up when hitching up! He has also installed a battery box at the bottom at the front of the trailer and the battery is in this box and the box remains padlocked. He has moved my breast bar forwards, and made my trailer permanently to it can latch in the 3/4 to 1/4 position, the 3/4 being in favour of the horse, so the horse has more room to balance, and I have room to put haynets, tools and haynets! He has painted the inside at least twice - I love the colour of the inside against the blue of the outside. The trailer is in very good condition structurally as he services it himself (or was doing until recently). It has the double floor. Dad is brilliant!

The trailer is 21 years old and my Dad is almost 81! :) I've had both from new lol :)
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Dog&PonyShow said:
Hmmmn. I think my trailer is older/more basic that the one in the photo! I'll try to upload a photo later. I think the unit shown in your photo is what's known as "standard coupling and overrun unit" whilst I think I have the "heavy overrun brake unit".

As for tyres, I have gone with the (expensive) imperial ones (6.7 15 C I think) what metric ones have you found to replace them?
Click to expand...

Not sure how the heavy duty unit works, it doesn't have the plates to 'lock' the handbrake off. I'd be surprised if there was nothing though, Rice seemed to be quite safety conscious.

I had the 6.7 15C imperials, but at around £90 plus each I couldn't justify it. Have gone for metric radials in 185 R15 @ £191.95 including postage for five tyres.
 
Does anyone knows, where I can find serial number (vin number) on the old Rice trailer. I know, it should be on the A frame... how many numbers there should be?
 
Beausmate said:
Not sure how the heavy duty unit works, it doesn't have the plates to 'lock' the handbrake off. I'd be surprised if there was nothing though, Rice seemed to be quite safety conscious.

I had the 6.7 15C imperials, but at around £90 plus each I couldn't justify it. Have gone for metric radials in 185 R15 @ £191.95 including postage for five tyres.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll keep a note of that whilst I continue to search for a spare wheel!

Here's what the handbrake arrangement looks like. Any ideas of how to fit a breakaway cable gratefully received!

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Ampera said:
Does anyone knows, where I can find serial number (vin number) on the old Rice trailer. I know, it should be on the A frame... how many numbers there should be?
Click to expand...

Mine is in the bottom right-hand corner of the front panel. You can just see it in the photo, it's the little grey plate.
 
Dog&PonyShow said:
Thanks. I'll keep a note of that whilst I continue to search for a spare wheel!

Here's what the handbrake arrangement looks like. Any ideas of how to fit a breakaway cable gratefully received!
Click to expand...

It doesn't look like it ever had one. I would run the cable up through the clevis fork and along the back of the lever, over the top and onto the retainer. I would round off the corners at the bottom of the lever and weld on a couple of little 'guides' along the back and a piece of tube or something over the top of the lever for the cable to go through to keep it in line, then attach it to the front of the retainer. It would probably need some adapting to give enough clearance for the cable to work smoothly, but it should work if the cable is kept in line. You might need to have a cable made up, although I found a long one off the shelf.
 
Hi all, does anyone know some of the old Rice employees? Have a question about my Rice (Beaufort double?) guessing it's an older one, can't quite see the plate just yet (layers of paint). I need to replace the upper front section of the nose (above the window) with a new piece of aluminium, as it has rusted through down one side/corner, and can't see if the non-opening side and the centre front are joined or just one piece? Anyone else done this? Guessing 4mm aluminium sheet with rolled edges? Thanks.
 
Jimbob82 said:
Hi all, does anyone know some of the old Rice employees? Have a question about my Rice (Beaufort double?) guessing it's an older one, can't quite see the plate just yet (layers of paint). I need to replace the upper front section of the nose (above the window) with a new piece of aluminium, as it has rusted through down one side/corner, and can't see if the non-opening side and the centre front are joined or just one piece? Anyone else done this? Guessing 4mm aluminium sheet with rolled edges? Thanks.
Click to expand...

try here:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/856468867843508

Much more likely to get an answer on there :)
 
Beausmate said:
The end of the cable attaches to the triangular plates the hold the brake off in normal use, when it comes into effect, it pulls the plates down, which releases the pawl (think that's what it's called!) and the handbrake will come on. If it is attached to the bottom of the lever, like mine was, then the handbrake won't release and as soon as the cable breaks, the brakes come off again and your trailer will carry on, on its own. :eek:

WP_20160605_21_08_34_Pro_zps4ztqytyx.jpg
Click to expand...
Hi,
That is exactly what I have. How is the cable connected to the bottom of the handbrake cable please.

Cheers
CRAIG
 
Dog&PonyShow said:
Thanks. I'll keep a note of that whilst I continue to search for a spare wheel!

Here's what the handbrake arrangement looks like. Any ideas of how to fit a breakaway cable gratefully received!

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Click to expand...
Certainly never around the tow ball which I've seen some people do.
 
Jimbob82 said:
Hi all, does anyone know some of the old Rice employees? Have a question about my Rice (Beaufort double?) guessing it's an older one, can't quite see the plate just yet (layers of paint). I need to replace the upper front section of the nose (above the window) with a new piece of aluminium, as it has rusted through down one side/corner, and can't see if the non-opening side and the centre front are joined or just one piece? Anyone else done this? Guessing 4mm aluminium sheet with rolled edges? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Speak to this guy. He is amazing and knows a lot about trailers.

Horse Trailer Sales : All makes and types of horse trailers

suppliers of all bateson, equitrek, fautras, ifor-williams, pegasus, rice, richardson and wessex horse trailers new or used.
www.horsetrailersales.co.uk
 
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DODDY123 said:
Hi,
That is exactly what I have. How is the cable connected to the bottom of the handbrake cable please.

Cheers
CRAIG
Click to expand...
Sorry, rubbish post!!!!

What I meant to ask was…
When the cable is attached to the pawl release catch, half way up the handbrake lever… how does it ‘run’ through the bottom of the lever just by the handbrake pushrod?
 
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